Take it to a decent LBS that isn’t scared of people buying bikes direct, pay the small amount of labour required to sort it out. Job done.
For reference, yes I do work in such a said LBS & at a guess, would cost £15 to sort it, possibly less depending on workload, attitude, time taken & quality of biscuits/cake/beer also supplied.

If you want the best, have you not looked at Royce? The only hubs I’d run on a road bike if I could stretch to them. Simply stunning!

Depends on the bike, but with us it’s usually end of July at the earliest as thats when the following year’s models start to be announced (not released, but details announced) Some 2016’s won’t even arrive on the first drop until March/April!

Both are all alloy.
Both are anodised
One is black, one isn’t..

Invisiframe Graphics?

I’ve got both & don’t use the rollers for training much, as I put my winter road bike on the turbo for that usually.
I use them every road or cx race for warming up though, as it means I haven’t got to clamp the backend of a race bike down & I haven’t got to take any more wheels to races than I need.

There’s a group a little further south, riding the Oswestry area on a tuesday evening. Pretty friendly bunch, feel free to drop me an email if thats doable for you?

Yes-Very.
I’ve been wearing it on road, CX & MTB for the last 18 months & been impressed, including racing.
Sizes don’t seem to match top/short wise, so worth trying on before you buy.

Did you replace inner & outer cable or just the inner?
Also, the 11sp Shimano does seem to prefer the coated low friction cables, standard stainless ones can be a bit more hit & miss IME

Chain on the right way round? (if you’re running a shimano chain)
cable the correct side of the clamp bolt?

Assuming you don’t need an adaptor, go into your LBS & talk to them nicely, they’ll more than likely have loads sat redundant in the workshop

I’m Cytech level 3 qualified, 12 years in the trade as a mechanic, 6 of those managing a shop for someone else.
We have an excellent reputation for quality, service forks in house, wheel building, reverb servicing etc. & I’m on just over £8 per hour.
Not the greatest wage, but not bad for what’s often considered a school levers job. (based in the west midlands)

I think at the last count we’ve sold 35 sets of them so far in various versions, both Tech XC & Enduro.
The XC seem a little soft, but really reliable in both forms. Spoke tension can be a bit on the loose side sometimes out of the box, so worth checking that before you ride.

Maybe do a lower leg service as well, there’s very little in the way of oil in them, wouldn’t need to lose much for them to run dry.

Spot on. We’re seeing quite a few coming through recently with very little/no oil in the lowers & they feel dreadful. Not something you should have to do, but drop the lowers & make sure they’ve got the correct amount of the right oil in there.

You’d be amazed how many people think their bearings are fine because there isn’t any play in them.
In reality, they’re often seizing up & if you remove the pivot axels & check, they’ll be tight & gritty.
We had one in last week, customer thought they were ok, but on inspection they were barely rocking & unable to rotate smoothly.
A year is going well if you want the best performance, often if it’s ridden a lot it’s more often than that.

I’m amazed how so many of you sellers are offering interest free credit!

Not a problem, 99% deposit & the balance in 6 months time. 😉

My Cube Stereo?
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/cube-stereo-140-hpa-pro-2015
(no harm in asking..)

They’re easy enough to rebuild-I’ve done a couple of rears this year including mine ( I bought them cheap knowing it needed a new rim)
Any decent mechanic should be able to manage it without much trouble.

You get what you pay for, why have some of the best brakes & fit budget pads?

You won’t fit the crud race guards or anything else for that matter to a Cube Peloton with 25’s in it-there ins’t space-I’ve tried race guards, SKS, Giant’s Defy guards (cut out for the caliper) & none of them fit properly.
I gave in & bought a Ribble for winter duties & fit race blades or equivalent to the Cube’s

Don’t use Stans fluid in latex tubs-it kills them slowly, use Caffelatex instead, but that’s for a different thread..

They all seem to have it & all seem to be last approximately three rides before the play gets so bad it won’t index any more.

Yes.

Rock Razors are great on most things & surprising in mud as long as you’re running low pressures.
Completely useless to the point of frightening & funny at the same time on wet grass though!
More Magic Mary on the sides than NN I would say & generally a heavier duty tyre.
I’ve been running one since early May on the rear, but now swapped for a Hans Damph.

I’ve seen the Mega & even sat on it, but like everyone else I’m sworn to secrecy until it’s official launch.
All I can say is I want one & might have to get an order in early.

Side cutters-work perfectly well on Reverb hoses & you’ve probably already got a set.

No & don’t come complaining on here when your Reverb stops working from the forces being put through it from trying to tear it apart backwards.
Steep seat tube angles are great anyway-makes them so much better at climbing.

We have those-I’m a spanner monkey in a shop.
Also the only thing you REALLY need is the IFP height tool if it’s a stealth.

Basic service kit sorts it 9/10 times.
Change the seals, the bush in the lower seal head & rebuild.
£40 labour + seal kit @ £9.99 & job done.

Yes, sadly some of them seem to do it, whereas others don’t.
Easy enough fix one of two ways-send it back to Sram tech via your dealer who’ll either repair or replace it, or take it back to your dealer who should be able to fix it for you-we usually repair them ourselves to save sending them back as it’s quicker-usually back to the customer same day or following day.

We’ve sold over 40 Bronson’s since their launch, including some racing EWS by some high profile riders.. I guess they must have all fallen to bits too & just not told us?
In reality we haven’t had a warranty return on any single one of them.
Just saying.

I wouldn’t trust Madison either-they’re not the warranty/distributors 😉

I agree the updated deal will (should) be better, but an O ring works well & a damn sight better than than what’s usually fitted to them as standard! (IMO of course, but what do I know..)

Happened to one customer of ours-out of 20 at a guess. New shifter under warranty & zero problems since.

Nothing more to tell than that, make sure it’s the perfect size to replace the leaky one & job done.

Not to hand, but you can read all the numbers off the seals without having to remove the bearings, just take the bolts out & have a look.

You don’t have to buy genuine bearings form Cube to fit to your frame, we usually use Enduro Max bearings as replacements as they’re better quality, last longer & are cheaper.
Regarding lifetime warranty on bearings, yes some manufacturers do offer that, but this doesn’t mean they expect their bearings to last a lifetime! On certain bikes like this, we’re replacing bearing within 3-4 months!

You can also measure it up & use an O ring in it’s place-works a treat 😉

Don’t worry too much bout getting all of the old glue off, just get the big bits off & anything that isn’t clean.
I then put a fresh layer or two on the rim to make sure it’s level & even (layers 24 hours apart) then mount the tyre within 5 mins of the final layer.
That’s how I’ve done my CX tubs for the last couple of years anyway, you won’t need to go as extreme with the gluing for road.

I was referred when I was younger for something similar (obviously don’t know how severe your daughter’s is) but I chose not to have the surgery. Now 33 & never had an issue with it not being done.