I was told tape only to, so I avoided completely! There’s no way I’d trust tape alone, especially for cx which is what I wanted them for.
Have a look at CN carbon et al, plain, unbranded & quite possibly the same base product as the PX & cheap.
I”ve run them for two seasons of cx racing & they’ve been faultless.

Looked & felt great to me yesterday.
Large felt too big for me, which the Tallboy doesn’t. (sat on both with 650B+ & 29er wheels as did many)
Angle set won’t be possible, as they’re now integrated headsets & not press in cups.
& Since when is 67 degree head angle too steep on a 29er??
Try riding one & then say the same. Stumpy Evo 29 is 68 & you don’t hear people saying how steep they are.

We received seven of them on friday after being on back order for months, so should be the same pretty much everywhere now for anyone who’s ordered them

But you don’t need a ‘kit’ to bleed Hope brakes. Just a bit of tube & something to catch the spill from the caliper! (even the tube isn’t always essential)

650B Shorty’s in stock at The Trailhead, Shrewsbury.
Might not be shooing on the website, but I know there are a few there.

Some didn’t have quite enough oil in the lowers we’ve found.
Mine did the same, did a lower service, checked the damper & no fault found.
Re assembled & felt amazing again (takes about 20mins)

None-there isn’t really enough clearance & if you can squeeze them in, you run the risk of jamming little pebble’s up in the brake callipers.

scaredypants must know the area talking like that, reminds me of hime just thinking about it! (used to live in Rainworth)
worth taking an xc bike & having a pootle, nothing exactly life changing, but fun to be had in tight & twisty singletrack.

I’ve had both, currently using the 550’s
slightly wider, resin not alloy, so slightly lighter & look better IMO.
No problem with reliability with either.

Via a dealer, if it’s a recent warranty & it’s one we’ve supplied, we don’t send them back but repair in house.
Faster turn around, better quality workmanship (more lube in the right places & bled properly!)
We’d rather have people out riding their bikes than sat in the shed waiting for a replacement.

We do it in house & same day turn around.
Any decent bike shop should be able to, it’s no harder than a suspension fork.

Whatever you like & colour matches.
I’ve run all sorts over the years, form the cheapo OEM stuff through to Lizard Skin & they’ve all done the job.
I’d say avoid Deda stuff, as although it looks great & is easy enough to wrap, it lasted 5 races on mine before it started to fall apart (it doesn’t like getting too wet/gritty & jet washed)

Spoke length irrelevant.

How does that work then?
I must have been doing it wrong professionally for the last 13 years & my tutor from the ATG must also be wrong, along with the assessor from DT Swiss.

How can spoke length not affect the tension & dishing? They’re all interrelated!

What hubs & spoke lengths did you use?
There always is a difference between the two sides on a rear wheel, but not usually that much.
Also if I’ve converted that correctly, thats 951 & 647 NM?

I’d guess at incorrect spoke length in one side & if those values are correct, I’d be wanting to double check my spoke calculations.

I’ve just seen some photo of Llandegla from today & there is snow, but it’s been rideable all day.
Could well be more overnight up there though.

I’ve got the 5’s
They’ll be coming off & most likely in the bin before my first race of the season.

Don’t worry about it, it’s that low in the frame, water will run out anyway.
Some of the 2016 1x equipped bikes are coming through with a single cable ‘plug’ in a T shape.
I ran mine with the standard one without any issues at all & it appears to be impossible to buy the new single T shaped ones.

Very low at best unless you’ve got the original proof of purchase & don’t mind a bit of fraud.

For reference I have two main sessions I do on the turbo, one threshold & one interval.
Anything more than that & it’s getting close to becoming a ride replacement session-I’d rather go out & get cold/wet/miserable than do much more than an hour on the turbo!

Yes, to the point I almost fall off the bike & struggle walking back to the house from the garage!
I find it often a better workout than doing intervals out on the road, as it’s far easier to control the conditions & resistance on a turbo than on the road.

One of the best & hardest races I’ve ever done.
Parts on the banking were similar to the depth at Milton Keynes NT last season after the WC raced the day before.
I”m hardly at the sharp end, but happy with my performance (39th in ‘elite’ men)
Helen must be gutted with what happened at the end of the elite ladies race, reality feel sorry for her, but that’s racing I guess.

The only way to find out what’s going on is to run a diagnostic check using the correct e-tube software.
Which Di2 is it? I’ve only ever experienced one problem & that’s with an external battery mount.
The green light is the battery indicator, but will only show when you press both shift paddles at the same time on the R/H shifter to give the reading, otherwise is should be blank.

Interesting comment on the BB7/Spyres, as we’ve done far more swaps the other way when people of become fed up of the grit ingress into the Tektro’s, causing the arms to seize.
HyRd’s are amazing though, as long as you don’t want them on descents that are too long.

I rode a couple of laps yesterday during my lunch break & it was wetter than I’ve ever seen the place, so dread to think what it’ll be like by the time I’m racing on it tomorrow-good job I like running..
Decided not to go today because of the weather & sorting my own kit out.
Results & reports seems to be coming through well on twitter though.

I went through half a set of sintered pads halfway though one 50min race last sunday, to the point I switched bikes at 30 mins to have the lever pull where i wanted it. Wettest CX season I cam remember!

Pad wear after 10 weeks? Yes, definitely possible.
I wore a set out on my cx bike within 2 weeks & a friend did the same, new & bedded in ( I bedded them in for him) & they wore to the backing plate in two races, so less than 2 hours.
Genuine pads & yes I do know how to bed them in properly-I do it for a living.

Lifetime warranty on SC bearings (assuming you’re buying it new), but you might have to pay the labour if your dealer fits them for you.
Also lifetime warranty on 2015 frames onwards.

Have you tried talking to your local friendly bike shop?
They most likely have an account with a courier & will send it for you for much less than you can manage yourself.
We charge £25 usually for 48hr delivery as long as it’s already boxed properly. (oddball sizes or huge weights are more)

Nipple length doesn’t affect accurate spoke length, the correct length will come through halfway through the top of the slot in the nipple, regardless of the nipple length that remains the same.
Anyway, in terms of a spoke calculator, I use the Wheel Pro one & seems spot on.
ERD’s aren’t always as accurate as you’d expect either & can vary around the rim, so measure it yourself in at least three points & take an average.

There isn’t a novice race at West Mids, its just done on age & after that everyone races together ( same with Notts & Derby & I believe Welsh league)
It’s a friendly atmosphere & you should get a good race regardless of where you are in the field.
Hardly worth getting a BC licence for this season as there’s only one race left.

Feel free to come & say hi next weekend as I’m racing at Shrewbury ( in the loosest sense of the word-I’ll be at the back!)
I’ll have a pair of Black/Blue Ridley’s & loitering by the Madison/Ridley/Lazer van.

Insoles out, fill new newspaper & put somewhere warm overnight.
Wear Sealskinz socks (longer the better or new hydrostop to stop water coming in the top) & you won’t notice if they’re not dry.

Shimano chain? If so, is it on the right way round?
Chainrings worn if not replaced?
B screw set wrong on rear mech?

They ail last well, as long as you change the bush when it wears, same with alloy top hats really, they last well enough as long as the DU is changed in time.
The low friction Fox hardware on the other hand appears to be made of some special very soft french cheese..

Thats how much there are pretty much anywhere if you want decent quality.
I personally either buy from J tech suspension for most, Burgtec for offset’s or Mojo for Fox.

The Trailhead in Shrewsbury, small but packed to the rafters with kit & great staff.

We’ve found the Shimano chainrings aren’t quite as good at chain retention as perhaps they should be.
We’ve been fitting Burgtec instead with huge success & little/no problems.

Other way round for me, I’ve had a Reign, Trance, Cube Stereo, Mega, Bronson & now a Tallboy as well as spending a fair bit of time on a 650B Five. I found the Five was nasty to climb & just didn’t make any sense to me up hill at all (bobbing, felt heavy, nasty angles etc), especially when compared to everything else I’ve ridden or owned recently, but downhill it was one of the most fun things I’ve ever ridden.
Horses for courses & all that

I’ve ridden on a set & serviced a few in the past, so I do have first hand experience of them, just sadly not of owning them (yet)
fwiw, I’ve got Novatec, Hope & CK on my other wheels to compare against & I’d still choose Royce given the chance (maybe I should sell the CK & buy some..)

As a proper best summer/race bike I wouldn’t buy a road bike with discs-just really don’t see the need. I know they’re all going to head that way as the manufacturers are pushing it so hard, but only on a tourer/commuter or winter bike for me.