You can’t use a standard M10 tap, at the pitch of the thread isn’t the same, you’ll need to make sure the tap is M10x1, 1mm pitch instead of the standard M10 which is 1.25. Whereabouts are you? If you’re anywhere near the midlands I’ll gladly do it for you.

M10x1 iirc, not a standard pitch for a 10mm bolt, so you’d be unlikely to have one lying around. Any decent bike shops will have one, quite a common thing to have to do.

It’s pretty good at the moment now it’s drained off loads, much more predictable without the 3″ of sludge on the top!
There’s loads to go at now, miles of which will never get signed

skiprat, if you’re interested in a local tour round, give me a shout when you’re next over this way & I’ll see if I’m about or some of the other locals. We’ve been riding there since ’94 so know it pretty well

Usually happens when the tube gets trapped between the tyre & rim, inflating & not spotting it & one big bang later you see what happens (done it several times when I’m in a rush)

Just wondering how many of the people winging about not being able to enter online, paying by cheque etc. have ever organised any sort of event, or even helped at one?
Cheques-haven’t you got a credit card? I find every month I get a ‘barclaycard cheque’ attached to my statement-problem solved!

Have a look at the DT rims, very nice…

Don’t forget there is also a ‘Slime Light’ tubes, 219g according to the box I’m looking at, so loads lighter than normal slime ones. Not sure how good they are though as haven’t used them myself

Do you have any idea what’s envolved with changing a Shimano freehub? assuming you mean the freehub body & not the complete freehub?
You have to dismantle the hub to do it, so axel & bearings out, remove old freehub body, (which is probably siezed if original after 3 years)clean, fit new freehub body. What would you like then? dirty gritty bearings fitting without any fresh grease in your new freehub body, or cleaning & fresh grease to makre sure it runs properly?
Yes they probably should’ve called you if it was going to cost more than you expected, but at least they did it poperly!

Only change is now I’m running a pair of P2 forks instead of the nasty SIDs

I’m a Canon man, so can’t really comment on the Nikon from a users point of view, but if you go for any of the big names you won’t really go far wrong.
Nikon & Canon will give you far more choice in lenses, both original & 3rd party from the likes of Sigma or Tamron. Don’t discount 2nd hand, but I’d recommend you buy from a dealer if you do that so you get a warranty, mor for your money & still mroe than capable. I still get front cover pictures using a 4 years old Canon EOS 20D-probably worth about £200 to sell if I’m lucky!

According to mine, 50in/lb is 5.6NM approx.

Depends on the bike, I’ve got one tha goes right down to 2NM, as I needed a really low one for carbon stems etc. as some of those are only 5NM max torque. HT2 LH cranks are 12-15NM etc.
If you only want it for crank bolts & the like that’ll be fine, but if you want it for the smaller things it’s not really much use