I've been on the phone to Middleburn about them today.
They don't really have any at the moment as they're working on some new ones, which hopefully will be out later this year.
If they're half as good as the old ones I'll be having some! They're awesome hubs & still going strong 13 years later.

There' still riding tobe had in Sansom Wood, but it's not as good as it used to be, although little rat runs in Blidworth are kept open by a fair number of midweek riders.
Bestwood I don't know much about apart from some epic dirt jumps.

Awesome riding, except for on the7th March as there's a horse ride around there. Doesn't affect 'Dowies' though (sp?)

I tend to call mine 'Anthem' 'Road bike' or 'hardtail'

The ones form the New Giant Root brakes work, so Tekro Auriga ones should too if that helps at all.

Yep, another vote for KMC, cracking chains & available in bling gold if you so wish.

Take your stem off & measure the steerer
But it'll be 1 1/8"

The DT Swiss one seems to be very hit & miss at the moment.
Some days it has 'others' on the drop down menu for hubs, but at the moment that isn't happening.
Try the wheelpro one, if not you might have to resort to messuring everything out.

Paul Errington's is a good read if you want to follow individual riders (or mad man in Paul's case)
http://shoestring-racing.blogspot.com/

Because they're are several standards that have been around much longer than external bearings.
However, press fit bb's are getting more popular with some manufacturers, doing away with screwing any cups into the frame, they have a different type of BB cup that presses in like a headset, but gives the same overall width as HT2/X type etc.

We sometimes ride around there, starting just over the bridge near where the track into Shining Cliff comes out. Do a route over the other side of the A6, down to the Cromford Canal, along & up Sheep pasture climb, up round black rocks, then head over to Shining Cliff for a couple of dh runs to finish.
Drop me an email if you're interested, usually go out on a sunday morning
saundersdr AT hotmail DOT com

Reba's usually change in 15mm increments. So they can be 85, 100 or 115mm travel.
Should be able to strip them down, take out the last remaining spacer & they'll be 115.
I've done both aftermarket & OEM forks without problem.

Giant Trance X4 if you're after a general trail bike. Cracking thing for the money

I've done it several times, do it carefully & it'll be fine

Yes, as long as the track width is about the same (depth of rotor where the pads make contact)

Whereabouts in the country are you? Might be someone not far away who'll do it for you/lend you a press for it

Coatesy, have a look on the b2b next time you order, or ask them over the phone, Shimano spares are free postage, I ordered a couple of Alfine bits this afternoon.

KMC seem a really nice compromise-better than Sram durability wise & shift as well as Shimano (IMHO of course)

IF the parts you need are listed as a 'spare' at Madison, then yes, they are sent out with no carrage charge to the dealer.

Shimano spares are post free from any Madison dealer, so if one place is telling you 21-28 days, chances are madison don't have them in stock, in which case the easiest way if you need them now will be to buy a hub & strip out what you need

The newer BB's come with two smaller spacers that make up 2.5mm, but it's not a half & half split & one 2.5mm spacer, but can't remember what sizes at the moment.

A full bike won't fit in a 90, unless you remove the front wheel, or drop it over the bulk head (if it has one). Well, none of mine do anyway!

Bream, how did you manage to get hold of the green Hope stuff? Really 'need' some on my Anthem!

But Pro Race tyres were never designed as a winter tyre anyway, have you tried something like GP 4 seasons, or gatorskins?

I know of a few people who ran a 200×57 on some of the old Giant Reigns, instead of the original 200×50, giving approx 6.5" of travel instead of 6, not a massive difference, but a difference all the same. Didn't hear of it causing any problems wit fauling, but not something I've tried myself.

Presta, just so all my bikes have the same valve to keep things simple (MTB & road)

Get on to Sram's website & download a user manual from there.
Should be a table of air pressures though on the back of l/h fork lower giving details of rider weight & pressures. If you do that, check the pressure as it is now, then dump all air out of both chambers, start from scratch & inflate +'ve before -'ve

Al;loy ones failing is more common, but brass can let go, more prone to it if the spokes were too short.

Depends on which model of pedal, they don't all work in the same way

£25 per hour labour charge is about right, not salary for the mechanic, two VERY different things.
We charge £10 to true up & re tension + the spoke, assuming tyre, tube & if rear cassette are all still fitted. Unless it's a regular, or other items are being purchased at the same time.

No, cassette lockring tool is a different spline, unless as stated above, come campag ones will fit

What do you mean by offset?
AFAIK only Bontrager rims run an offset spoke bed, mavics should be centred between the locknuts.
ERD is 542mm according to DT

My dad's got an '03 reg L200, not a bad truck, but useless when it's slippery due to the lack of weight on the back. Quite a capable thing otherwise, generally reliable, but many are pigs to start when they're cold, even with new heater plugs fitted.

Muddy farm track, assuming not towing anything? Really don't see the need for low box, diff lock possibly but only if it's really bad.
If they really need low range, then probably have to be a 'proper' 4×4

Rebas for me & I'm currently riding Fox!
More easily tuned, easier to & require less servicing.
More plush if set up well IMHO.
Cheaper.

Crank Borthers multi 19, or little Lezyne out on the road bike, as don't need as many tools

Another thing to look out for is that the axel on the pedal isn't splitting, splaying it open & jamming it tigher into the threads. We had that with a pair of XT pedals last year, ended up having to dismantle the pedal in situ, grind flats on the axel & wind it out. Then had to fit an insert as it pulled the threads out of the crank.
If you look at the end of the pedal axel where you would put the allen key closely, if it has done this you will see small stress cracks in the corners where the allen key fits (if that makes sense)

The Advanced is carbon, but exactly the same geomtry as the alloy ones

Why not ride an Anthem so you can compare both for yourself?
I've got an Anthem Advanced '09 & it's awesome, couldn't wish for a better xc race bike. For general xc riding, the Anthem X may be better with the slacker head angle & touch more travel though

No, cheap mounts are plastc, decent ones are metal. Can be either in both EF & EF-S.