Hope Pro4 or DT 350 (or any DT with the start drive)
IMO only of course.

3k matt for me, but only on the cx bikes. I’m still not convinced of carbon on mtb.
Gloss UD on the road bike at the moment, but they are Enve so that’s allowed 😉

Enter the 3 peaks cyclocross to see what they are capable of

That’s why I’m sat in front of my computer now-I’m not intending leaving it until my entry application is in & they don’t even open until next week! 😉

Is it not what they’re designed for?

I’d guess that the seal on the top of the air shaft is damaged where it sits into the bottom of the stanchion, but obviously it’s impossible to say without personally stripping them down & having a look.

The dust seal shouldn’t be pressurised at all, so sounds like the lower air seal might be damaged & leaking somehow? & the reason it takes a long time to pump up if you’re pressuring the lowers & not just the air chamber.

We use Enduro bearings now for everything in the workshop & they’re available in various levels.
Abec 3 are the most basic (but very good)
Abec 5, Stainless, Ceramic Hybrid, Max Abec 3 etc etc.
Well worth a look.

No problems at all & we fit hundreds of them every year.
Although we tend to use gorilla tape & not stand tape on Hope rims, as they seem to benefit from the extra thickness when it comes to seating the tyre

Anywhere from £30 upwards at ours, just depends on what needs doing. We charge £30 per hour & charge for how long it takes & what’s required.
We’ve had some that need £30 spending & others than need £600+

The green SKF seals have a lip IIRC so they don’t sit flush like the standard rock shox ones.

The two sets I fitted today didn’t have a lip & fitted completely flush.
I’d personally rather use genuine seals, but they’re on backorder at Fishers, so little choice.
It’s also only the dust seals with the SKF & not the full kit, so you can’t strip the charger damper etc & do a full service.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=powerdrive

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/bottom-brackets/power-drive-alloy-bottom-bracket/

Used to sell them, but never seemed quite the same value at the time when put next to offerings from other brands.
That was a few years ago now though, so most likely things have changed

What were you hoping winding out the B screw would achieve?
Sounds like you’ve just wound it out too far.
What are the symptoms of it not shifting properly in the first place?
Usually it’s down to cable stretch, or excessive friction between inner & outer cable, unless something is bent.

I had 2015’s too on last year’s race bike for training wheels & they were cartridge bearings too-only the rim graphics have changed from what I can tell.

They must be the road variant, either that or you’re happy with a spongy, nasty feeling brake.
The MTB BB’s don’t work with road levers, not properly anyway.

I’ve got Racing 5’s on mine & they’re sealed cartridge bearings (although believe there are cup & cone OEM versions out there) , but have the preload cap.
They’re not very stiff at all though, so that amount of flex is quite normal, but shouldn’t be able to make them touch the pads unless you’re sprinting really hard & the frame’s a bit flexy.

Maybe it just needs a service, any decent shop should be able to do it in house.

From what I remember, they are nitrogen charged (or so I was told when I worked in a Giant dealership for 8 years) & were never technically designed to be serviceable, as there wasn’t a service centre as such in the UK.
It’s going to a bit long in the tooth at best & quite likely to have score marks etc internally.
I’d save the effort & buy a replacement shock.

Hans Damph, Trail Boss, HR2 are the three we sell more of than any other for rear tyres in any size.
I run Nobby Nics fr & rr @ 20psi, & don’t have any problems at all, but I know some people do.

The Trailhead in Shrewsbury. Packed to the rafters with quality stock & staff that know what they’re talking about.

cookeaa – Member
Pour it into a disposable cup and syringe what you need from that?

Or just do the jam jar trick?

How do mechanics lube chains?
Step 1) Wave Park chain checker tool at customers bike.

Step 2) inform customer that their chain is “dangerously worn”.

Step 3) Remove old chain sell and fit customer an Ultegra chain for full RRP (but graciously waive labour costs)…

Step 4) “Inspect” brake pads for wear…
Do I detect a slight bitterness towards bike mechanics…? 😉

Never had that problem on my ’08 Anthem 1 or my ’09 Anthem Advanced 1 etna8.
Had something similar on a pre production VT in ’05, but that was to be expected to iron out the issues before they go to the production version.
It could well be a 608 2RS, but it’s been so long since I’ve done one that I can’t honestly remember off the top of my head.
Having said that, whip out the bolt, give the bearing a wipe & read the numbers on the seal.

Gorilla here & in the workshop for most conversions these days. Helps build up the rim bed if the tyres are a bit slack.
Also comes as standard with Enve rims as part of their tubeless kit-even if the centre tube is rebranded.

You can go light without having to go carbon (I didn’t want carbon in the mountains)
SO built American Classic RD205 rr, Micro 58 front onto the original Alpha 340 rims (when they were close to 340g) & they came in at 1274g for the pair without skewers. 2x front & rear.

Correct spoke length is correct spoke length, regardless of nipple length.

Carnk Brothers M17 for me since 2007, or I’ve just bought a Stique-made in the UK (Cannock) & has some quirky little features. Made from Carbon too, so obviously they’re faster. 😉

orangeboy – Member
Dot 5 is the silicone based stuff and not to be mixed with glycol based 5.1 or 4

Listen to that man.
DOT 5 is Silicon based, not 5.1
DO NOT use DOT 5 unless you want to ruin things!
DOT 5.1 & 4 are fine though.

They often look & measure round until you measure the ERD & the wall thickness varies, so the amount of nipple coming through to meet the spoke also varies 2-3mm, which makes a huge difference & a real hassle building.
Also check if they’re supposed to be built with nipple washers, as some are but aren’t supplied.

I’m still waiting for a CX frame I was promised was on it’s way two years ago & AFAIK hasn’t even made 1st mock up, never mind the rideable Proto that was meant to be coming!

Measure the ERD of the rim yourself in several places.
I’ve built up countless Chinese carbon rims over the past few years & not all are created equal-the wall thickness can vary, resulting in uneven ERD measurements & uneven tension, so if that happens, take your time & it will always be a compromise.
If you get a good pair, then they’re a doodle to build.

swanny853 – Member
swanny853 – Member
Anyone who tells you ‘it just needs an internal bleed’ is talking twaddle & doesn’t know the bottom from their centre arm joint..
Ahem. I (and someone else of this forum) have managed to reassemble dry and then refill carefully. I’m planning on testing bleeding the internal circuit without a full post breakdown but if the post can be reassembled dry then filled a bleed should work.

If it does then all you’d need to get rid of the bob would be the remote bleed kit and the post oil height tool. Shouldn’t take more than an hour.

The IFP height tool is arguably the least necessary of the special rockshox tools- it’s just a piece of pipe with the correct ID, OD and some height markings. You could probably substitute a couple of spokes if you were feeling very tight (I wouldn’t recommend it, it does actually do the job very well.

I bow to your superior knowledge & apologise for insisting on the job being done correctly if it’s going to be done at all.

My lower back is shocking (medical help every 4-6 weeks) & I love my Acre Supplies bag.
I’ve had Camelback, Evoc, Deuter et al & this is by far the most comfortable I’ve ever used.
The hip straps have an adjustable height, which helps loads & the back itself is stiff, without the back protector feel of some of the others.
Lot of money though 🙁

I work at the smallest shop in Shrewsbury, but I’m not naming names, as I don’t want to be seen as advertising.
It’s not rocket science, but you need a certain amount of knowledge & the IFP height tool or do you don’t stand a chance.
Anyone who tells you ‘it just needs an internal bleed’ is talking twaddle & doesn’t know the bottom from their centre arm joint..

Last group ride with us last week:
20 riders, 7 punctures-all were running tubes.
Not one person running tubeless had an issue. Added 45 mins to the length of the ride.
Why not tubeless? I’m not talking ghetto tubeless bodge with insulation tape & a valve cut out of a tube, but gorilla or Stans (Tesa) tape & proper valve, good quality tyres & proper sealant-job done.

We sort them in house to save our customers being without their post for a week or so. Same day turn around & done FOC if it was purchased from us. Standard service charge (£40+ parts if required) if it didn’t come from us. Simples & you can ride the same day-try your LBS, you might be pleasantly surprised.

It’s all on Hope’s website & has been for weeks.
Just don’t try & look it up using your phone as it doesn’t seem to work on mobile yet.
Alternatively, just measure it up, takes 5 mins at most.

I’m 5’8 & raced a 17″ last year, but recently sat on a 19″ with a 90mm stem & it felt so much better.
Depends on what you want it for & your personal preference in position.

Sealskinz mid weight, mid length socks with Hydrostop-sorts out the irritating water running down inside from the top

I use the wheel pro, but results do vary depending on if you’re using manufacturers measurements or your own & which spokes, as we find DT’s are often 1mm shorter than claimed on the box, whereas Halo are exactly as claimed.

We’ve built quite a few (The Trailhead, Shrewsbury) if you want to look us up & have a chat about them.
When I say a few, we build around 10 sets a year on various versions on different hubs for different people from road to xc, enduro & DH. All hand built in house.