Simon, that's probably our miserable lot on a tueday night, although there haven't been as many in that group recently.
There's several groups round here that seem to go out, ourselves from TSW Cycles, a group from NATS we sometimes see & a few other locals who just meet up & ride

Doesn't help in that you haven't said which races you're doing, but yes you can ride the course before hand. I'm aiming at Mayhem & Sleepless again this year, both of which you can ride friday afternoon onwards.

Not really as you may have a pair that aren't as good as they should be in the first place.
I know as I said before we sold a pair that had a similar issue, sent back, new pair returned & no more problems. These hadn't had the liners in the fingers stitched in like they're supposed to be.

They're really good with the after sales stuff.
They've said to send them back for testing & you're moaning that they want to see them first?
We had one pair do it out of around 40 that we've sold & they were replaced very quickly without any fuss.

Yes I carry one most of the time.
Seem to lend it to a fair few people who have needed one & don't bother carrying kit they might need.

Anthem X, or if you want a bit more travel, Trance X

30.9mm

Anthem 3.5" rear, Anthem X 4".
They're designed to be proper xc race bikes, the trance x is more general useage with 5" travel

XT always seems to be as good as anything for that kind of money

Yep, '09 Anthem advanced.
full carbon frame, XT right through, fox rp23 rr, Float 80mm front.
Awesome xc race bike. Bit twitchy, but sorts it out by fitting a 100mm fork if you're that way inclined.
Anthem X has touch more travel & slacker head angle to start with.
What do I think? Best xc bike I've ever ridden.

They're capable of some excellent quality work, but they don't always get it spot on. I've seen a couple of frames sprayed by them that were average at best, but others that are awesome!

Yep, cheap & easy in any bike shop, take what you've got with you to match it up.

Typical Marzocchi IMO, over heavy, not the most plush & I wish all the very best of luck getting them repaired if you ever have problems with them!
BUT IF you get a good pair-as rare as that seems to be, they seems a nice fork

Cut it clean & fast!
If all else fails-wrap the hose in masking tape & cut it with a slitting disc in an angle grinder.

Not mine, but exactly the same as.

Yep, all the time.
We use Fibrax, Clarks, EBC as well as brake manufacturers own & always find OEM fits better (no real suprise then)
Sometimes have to resort to sanding down new pads to get them to clear the rotors! Some seem to have more pad material than standard ones.

I've got a Giant Anthem for endurance racing mainly, as it's less punishing. Did have a longer travel trail bike until recently for normal riding, as it's faster downhill, easier to climb rocky climbs & more comfortable.
fwiw, air can services on a rear shock takes 5 mins, cost peanuts, can be done at home & reduces the cost of sending them off to be done.

Depending on model year, some have a hole on the seat tube to allow you to drop the seatpost more.
Travel adjustable, either 5.3, or 6.5" iirc.
'05 should have Manitou Shermans on it? Not a bad fork, but bloody heavy!

They actually ride quite nicely.
Not the lightest, or most efficent at pedaling, but a good reliable tough bike.

Kerso on ebay is spot on, he's also on Talkphotograhy a lot.
I've got a 24-70 f.28 L if you want to try one, depending on whereabouts you are?
Be carefull if you're looking s/h though-I had three I sent back from various places before I got a good one!

Conti 1.5's or Black Shark muds (although sadly discontinued now) are awesome when its really sticky & roll pretty well too-just not comfortable.
Maxxis Medusa 1.8's for me as a compromise

No, won't make any difference strength wise, just not the 'correct' way to do it. Like above, just don't admit you built it yourself if anyone asks 😉

'Master of Trails'
Oh dear.

Sorry, that was said in jest.
I do sometimes use a jetwash if it's really filthy, otherwise hosepipe, Fenwicks bike cleaner & selection of sponges & brushes from Wilko's.
Then lube up before putting it away. If I can I'll leave it out to dry first though

Jet wash. WD40. Job done.

AT the moment, most of the really popular trails are a complete mudfest. I live 5 mins ride away from Sherwood pines & am avoiding it unless its frozen solid. It's slurry like in many parts & just not fun to ride, unless you just look out for the 'unofficial' tight & twisty bits, they seem ok as don't get used as much.

Why put a 30.8 in it when 30.9's are more common anyway?
Does usually work, as long as it's not carbon & you've got a decent clamp, or they have a tendancy to slip

No problems at all & they look good!
I woulnd't buy cheap ones, as really don't like the idea of cheap carbon.
I'm running Bontrager on one bike & Raceface on another & never had any problems.

Who the hell buys a Toyota in the first place.

Me, had four of them in total, still own three of those.
Have tried various things & keep going back to them. Fantastc cars imo.

Cups aren't in properly, they should be pressed right into the frame.
Having said that, I don't know what the internal of a Cannondale headtube is like

Yep, doing London for my 1st marathon this year.
Have run man v horse before, but never the full distance on tarmac.
Up to running 13-14 miles at a weekend & trying to get some speed work in during the week, or turbo sessions as I'm also doing the Clumber Classic duathlon next month

Nope, the Alfine has been horrible to ride on quite frankly-feels like it's running on flat tyres! Rohloff I tested is in a different league.

I built an Alfine equiped commuter for the boss & we're now soon to be swapping that out for a Rohloff.
Only real issue we've had with the Alfine is the amount of drag there seems to be in it, far less when we tested the Rohloff.

Built one years ago. Same as PhilChap above.
Used it for cx racing to stop the car getting ditched.

ton-email sent

We've got a few 2010 Giant Rapids in stock,
Not plugging them on here though as we don't pay for an advert…

Lovely to ride, just a shame they've got cheap Shimano hubs in them, only weak link for the money IMO.

5mm allen key, little noggin tool to remove preload cap (or something that'll fit) Ideally a torque wrench for the l/h crank pinch bolts.
I prefer Shimano as they shift better IMO, but Middleburn last longer

Not much point unless you're going to have new uppers, they'll always leak oil as it just escapes through the damage in the stantion every time it passes through the seal.
Cheapest option would be to buy a good second hand pair of forks.