Madison aren't even listing a 36h according to thier b2b site.
Could be a genuine problem, took me about two months to get hold of some 819's as there was no available stock in europe at the time.
Might be worth having a chat with Amer sports-Mavic UK service centre

It's not silly, might hurt lots & lots & lots & out you off forever (well at least until next years) but it's not silly.
If you're not going for the win & want to see how far & hard you can push yourself, go for it, but if you're one of these people who do 4 laps then give up because it's too hard, leave it for someone else.

I'd always use on on carbon frames, bars etc. Some are as low as 4NM, now way I'm risking it with mine or a customers bike. Worth every penny of the £140 it cost + calibration charges IMHO, but then what do I know…

It'll take you 5 mins while you,ve got it off & it's a really easy job, so do it. Worth it to clean out any muck that's got in there

No it's fine out there, nothing on the roads at all, just a touch where its sheltered in the field headlands.

Mine's in, delivered with Wills this morning-the joys of self employment 😉
Apparently, one of the first people to turn up was from Surrey & have sad with a wireless dongle & printer at midnight near Pats house!

I'm drving over tomorrow, can't be doing with staying up that late & not working tomorrow anyway

SO people hear them & come out to see what's making the noise. So they can then ask you if you have any scrap.
Pretty obvious really!

LBS, most have loads knocking about, I know we do

Chainguide looks like an MRP but could be wrong.
Nice looking bike, except for the wheels,but each to thier own I guess

IIRC, piston & seal kit for juicy's is around £10-11 plus the labour & drop of fluid, so £20-30 depending on the shop I would've thought

A 'engineer' friend of mine doesn't like the machining marks that are left on everything, says it's poor workmanship & he wouldn't be allowed to let things out like that, but the average user of it likes the look of it like that, I know I do!
I'd also guess that the ti bolts you speak of aren't made by Hope, more likely something bought in.

I assume you've had both calipers off & checked the pistons & sliders are moving freely? So if, when was the fluid last flushed through? Could be some muck stuck in the brake pipe somewhere, MC piston & seals all ok?

One I found on a quick google.
Not that often used by ramblers, much more of a mtb trail now, as it's getting so bad it's putting off a lot of the 4×4's as well!

As long as you know what you're buying you're ok. I've bought & sold quite a few, all of which have been fine. We do get loads in the shop for repair where people don't know what they're looking at & have had thier fingers burnt

The Giant shocks are very good for what they are imo, something like an RP23 will give you more adjustability if that's what you're after & more tunable in that you can have it custom valved etc. to get it exactly how you want it

Yes they can, well not retapped, but repaired. We'ver got special pedal taps that cut out the old damaged threads & cut a new one for an insert, which is then wound in the same as a helicoil back to the original 9/16" size

which ones? on the pinch bolts? Should be possible to have a threaded insert or helicoil fitted

Different axles & bearings. Same clip though.

Yep, really good chains. We've recently swapped over stock in the shop from Sram to KMC, think lots of people are doing similar things

Yep, nice rings, dont shift as well as shimano, but nicely made & last well

There actually quite a nice thing for the money, shifters aren't great, but cracking frame for the cash

Some of the Selle italia saddles come with a 30 day money back deal if you don't get on with it-worth a look.
I've got a flite gel flow on my road bike & love it, but just doesn't feel right on my xc bike, strange how that sometimes happens

Just dont rush it in the morning & it'll be fine

juiced-check the oil level as there's a fair chance they have too much in them, restricting the travel. If you refill them to the correct level you may well have the right travel

Yes! as long as you didnt push the piston in too hard & damaged the seal it''ll be fine if you bleed it up

You'll need a set of cone spanners, grease, new bearings & cones ideally, plenty of rag & it's easy.
Disassemble from the non-drive side too, as you won't be able to do up the lock nut on the drive side when the axel is fitted.
Follow Pete's guide from here
http://www.mountainbikerides.co.uk/fettling/shimano_hub.htm
as it's the same on your LX hubs. Bearing sizes aren't the same front & rear though
*edit* the only thing I'd do differently is to remove the disc first if you have them, to prevent the risk of getting any grease on them

they're pretty straight forward, have you serviced a cup & cone hub before? If so, they're all pretty much the same

I'd be thinking about some new ones at that age. I don't seem to keep bikes very long, but when I used to I'd only run them 3/4 years

I ended up buying a range of them, a really small one from 2-16NM, then a normal 1/4" drive, 3/8" & 1/2" drive so everything is covered. Although the 1/2" is very rarely used on anything except my car!

Tune, or my personal favourite was & still is my 13 year old Middleburns

I've only seen it once before, but not on a Pace & that had been caused by fitting a headset with a hammer & not being careful.

if you're after handbuilds, have a chat with a decent lbs if you have one?
Or Hope Hoops are nicely built, but not often available in colours

I'm just in the process of bulding myself a set into some DT xr4.2's & they're looking really nice.
I tend to only run upto 2.1's though. Stans seem very popular at the moment too

I'd say either build if you want to/have the time or buy a complete used bike.
as it happens,I've got a mate who's selling a Rocky Mountain ETSX 30 for £550 if thats of any interest..?

Also depends on what you want the images for.
When I'm photographing at an event, I can shoot upto 4000 pictures, so there's just no way I can use RAW & keep the workflow sensible, whereas a wedding I'll always shoot RAW, it gives you the extra piece of mind that the file contains so much more information that can be adjusted how you want it & not how the camera sees best to compress it.
Use it a lot for contrasty landscapes as well, as it's far easier to pull detail out of deep shadow or what appear to be blown highlights & still keep everytinhg looking natural.

I had the Speeddisc lite? on an Anthem, they're light & work well enough, but bearings are dreadful & fall to pieces in about 20 minutes riding! Stainless bearings are now available for them, which may be better but I got rid of them. Not a standard bearing size either, so makes finding replacements a bit more difficult i.e. most normal bearing suppliers don't seem to be able to get them

£6.95-fastway couriers

Put the crank bolt back in (8mm allen key)
put back puller cap (10mm allen key)
Use 8mm allen key through the 10mm hole in the cap & undo, it will pull the crank arm off with it.
Unless you don't have a seperate puller cap for a 10mm allen key, then you'll need an isis/octalink crank puller

Not us then, as we're usually a bit more sociable than that!