Give TSW Cycles a ring-I used to work there & know for a fact there's a brand new & unused RP23 on the workbench that's come off a Trance X 2010 model. Shouldn't be too expensive.
Edit, they'll be someone around from 9am in the morning, tell Matt or Jerry that Dave told you to call.

Yes, completely normal.

We used to use sealant designed for ride on lawnmowers, cheap & comes in big bottles. Heavy, but seemed to work a treat!

I'd always use TF, unless it's warranty work, then would use Mojo, but only if I had to! (bad past experience with a loooonnnnggg wait to get rear shock back)

You did crap mate, not worth trying to find them 😉

BBOOOOOO, been working all day 🙁 and again tomorrow 🙁
but hopefully if the weather holds that means I have the trails to myself on monday 😀

Yep, was in there wednesday evening & most of it is bone dry & really fast.
Most of the boggy bits are now dry. Was my 1st outing in there on dry tyres & twas great fun

Pop the bearings out, measure them/read the number off the seals & talk to your local bearing supplier/internet. Easy.

Depends if it's a bike build/assembly or a pdi.
Most production bikes come built & require a pdi, not building. In which case around 20-30 mins if it's something reasonable.
If assembling & checkering correctly, including checking the torque on HT2 cranks, stems bars etc. then an hour is doable, but would be a bit of a rush.
Not going to get into an argument amount torque wrenches, just answering the question.
I'd ALWAYS use a torque wrench on lightweight bars, stems, seatposts, HT2 cranks etc. just in case-as much as anything to keep the insurance company happy IF anything happened (which it never did in the eight years I was there)

Ison do some travel adjusters to run V's, that's what I'm putting on mine. About £8 each I think.

If you can, ride a Planet X before you buy. I was going to order one until I built one up a customer bought & really wasn't impressed. Great to look at & excellent spec, but the frame was just so flexy it wasn't true! Customer even brought it back with brake problems-turned out was down to the amount of flex in the frame when sprinting or climbing hard!

Depends on work-the joys of self employment, at the moment I'm lucky to get out once a week on the bike as training for a marathon & working every weekend. Hopefully should be have more time soon, then it'll be road bike couple of times a week, one evening mtb ride & a decent daylight mtb ride 4hours ish.

Tyre pressure/wear/type? always worth considering.
Bar position might make a difference, getting more/less weight on the front-same for length & rise of stem.
Rider position, weight distribution etc. all play their own part

No, the 70 is Nm-Newton Meters of torque, not the shell width.
Measure the width of the bb shell itself to sort that out & measure the axel end to end too.

Try cleaning it properly & then using a decent quality lube, something from the likes of Finish Line, Motorex, Fenwicks, Green Oil etc.

Depends on the brand hora. Show a decent commitment to a brand & you'll get on a better rate, but some high end premium brands there are only two levels, basic trade & stockist & that's it regardless of how many shops you have or how many you sell.

It's not price fixing, the prices are usually suggested retail prices & you've shown two very desirable bikes, which in the case of the Zesty are hard to come by as a dealer anyway, so why would they discount them, when they know they'll sell through anyway?

We know the manufacturers set the prices

How do you 'know' that? it's news to me!
Margins on high end bikes & frames isn't as great as many people think (I know having run a shop for the last eight years)
What do you expect dealers to do? Huge discounts & sell at a loss just to keep you happy?

The Castle in Castleton isn't bad, or the Cheshire Cheese, again in Castleton.
What sort of thing are you looking for?

What do you use it for? I know some people use it for some quite major changes to make the finished product look nothing like the original. Each to thier own, just not my personal style, which is what it's all about.
Photography is an art (usually) so there's no right or wrong answer

I use it when I have to, but try & get it as close as I want it in camera to save being sat infront of the computer manipulating & correcting.
I'm a photographer-not an IT bod.

I thought most people went tubeless because it's lighter as much as anything else? If so, how come more & more are converting to UST going by the number of threads on this recently?
I still use tubes & wouldn't consider tubeless for the sheer simplicity of changing a tube if/when you puncture. 2mins out on the trail & you're up & away again.
Then mud-how many decent narrow tubeless compatable mud tyres are there? I'm not on about 1.9-2.0, but 1.5-1.8's?

I did one for a customer, but mad a few changes. Started with a CRS 0, so top end bike, but fitted blackburn racks & changed the bars to butterly ones for more positions. Gets used everyday for commuting & touring. He really seems to like it

Been wearing Altura shorts & tights for the last 3/4 years & not had the slightest problem. Get them sent back to Zyro via whoever you bought them from

Opposite side of the car park to the cafe are signs to the start of the Kitchener trail. I should be around easter sunday, so drop me an email if you want me to show you around that & some of the lesser known but more fun tight & twisty bits-I live on the edge of the forest so know it fairly well.

There is some to be had around blidworth bottoms, sansom wood etc. enough for a couple of hours, but not for much more. Can also go the other side of the A614 into Watchwood or into Burntstump for a good fun decent, but that's possibly a bit of a cheeky one. If it ever dries up it's possible for a nice big loop over some of the bridleways out Epperstone, Southwell, Bleasby etc. but a no go area at the moment as they're mainly on clay land

Conti Speedkings? I've got a set of those in 35, but haven't tried them yet

Yes I bought some, used the once then bought some cane Creek ones.
They're ok, but not a patch on the CC & found the little tab at the bottom rubbed the side of my hand, so had to cut them off.

Yes, were a total pig to get to sit on properly on the three pairs I've done, but haven't had any problems since

If you're going for an internal BB, it's a 68mm shell,axel length depends on the crank. If you're going external, it doesn't matter as you'll set it up with spacers supplied.

Madison are a distributor, not a retailer so yes you will have to go through somewhere with a madison account-which is pretty much every bike shop in the country!

We were stopped once riding up the Roman road from Hope up towards Hope Cross by a ranger, who told us we were on a footpath & had to turn around instantly-we laughed at him, pointed out the error of his ways on a map & rode on. Would't take him too seriously!

I'm using the PDA520's on mine & they're ok for shorter rides, but would prefer something like SPD-SL's or Look Keo's for longer rides, which is what I'll be fitting to mine soon

Depends hugely on the vehicle. Mine only takes an hour & a half to do, yet I know Fiat 20v Coupe's cost over £1k to have done properly as it's an engine out job. Talk to some other garages for other estimates.

I've got a LAS Squalo & find it fantastic.
Only other I considered was a Catlike, but depends on what you like & if it fits far more than anything else

Some very different types of bikes, depending on model chosen obviously. Giant or Fisher for racing, Cotic for the Peaks. Sorry I know that doesn't help very much! As an allrounder I'd probably say Genesis though, knowing how well a mate gets on with his in all kinds of extreme conditions.

Obviously the Class everytime if it's combine pron, general tractor pron, would have to be a Quadtrac if we're going modern

haha, oh yeah, that'll teach me not to read it properly 😉

Light tourer? How can it be a tourer without racks? or even guards?

trail_rat – Member
whats with the disks ?

It's a cross bike trying to pretend it's a road bike, or at least I think it is..
chainrings look a touch on the big side for a cross bike though & too small for a proper road bike

If a wheel's well built using quality components, spokes shouldn't really break anyway.
I prefer traditional 3 cross patterns, reliable, strong, they just work! Also stiffer afaik as each spoke supports others, unlike radial. I've got some data somewhere if I can be bothered to dig it out about both.