I tried tubeless using Bonty wheels, Schwalbe tubes, pain in the ass to fit & didn't notice any difference (using stans fluid)
Also tried Stans conversion on DT4.2's with Nobby Nics, eventually sat on the rim & sealed, but not 100% convinced.
Reverted back to xxlite tubes-95g each & no problems with running narrow mud tyres either, which I can't do tubeless.

It's summer-don't let it worry you & enjoy the dusty trails rather than worrying about mud!

Gear cables? Actually quite common, if you take the ferrules off the outers, especially around the head tube end of the top & down tubes, check if any strands of metal are sticking out, if they are trim back the outer & refit, problem solved.

Cheers thanks for that, I have been keeping an eye out, but think it'll most likely get broken as they seem to do.

Have done it once-twas the spacers in the wrong way round

Hope you've got good dental insurance

about 5 mins with Virgin on one occation & two days on another.
Only two times I've had issues in two years

seen it done a few times, usually on standard issue Specialized wheels with the black alloy nipples. Just pop a normal brass one in & it'll be fine

That really doesn't sound good at all. Sounds like the wheel builder has the kit but knows jack… if he's using spoke freeze, but obviously doesn't know the basics first!
Unless of course you've flat spotted the rim & that's what has made the spokes loose?

*Pedant mode* It's an Anthem X Advanced SL, not an Anthem Advanced *Pedant mode*

Lovely looking bike though, hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy my 'normal' Anthem Advanced

Like I said I dunno about the rp2 shock but my NRS shock used only air

NRS shocks are oil dampened. The adjuster that sits at the top of the can adjusts the flow rate through a valve. You most likely did an air can service & didn't get to the damper, which on some Giant shocks is Nitrogen charged to keep the oil viscocity constant, the same as Fox shocks.
In reality I've never seen it cause a problem. I ran an air shock on my NRS, VT & Reign in the Alps & never had an issue.

Why do people clamp frames on the top tube though? Or any tube for that matter?
Will people PLEASE clamp them on the seatpost!
(sorry foxyider, just had to be said 😉 )

I've just got the cheaper one.
Works pretty well, I've only had a couple of forks when it hasn't been really easy, but still done the job.
Whereabouts are you based? You're welcome to come & use it!

Even I've got a crown race puller in my box at home, crap shop IMO if they haven't got such a basic tool.

I run a 32:16, but live on the edge of sherwood pines, so not exactly the most difficult of terrain.
32:18 should be good, but you'll obviously spin out even sooner decending.

I had an '08 Anthem 1 & loved it, sold it & bought an '09 Anthem Advanced full carbon version & it's even better! One of those bikes you just want to ride & ride & never sell.
Head angle is steep, fitting a 100mm travel forks does wonders though.

Using a lot or losing a lot? If it's the first then scrap it, or get you're credit card out! Most likely Valve stem seals or piston rings.
Should show something up on emisions test on MOT though.

Waste of money on a standard road car as stated above.
I use them, but only on the twin 40's 8)

Thats not a UK spec frame, it's most likely a mainland european one as it'll have come from Holland where Giants european base is. Nice looking bike though!

I use Moo & Vistaprint, depends what you want them for.
I get through loads in one line of work, so use Vista as they're cheap & cheerful, then Moo for the better quality ones that I don't use as many of!

Giant replace with what they have available.
If they had the same as what failed, they would send out the same again, if they haven't, they send out the closest possible & if it could be that the only composite frames they have in that size are the previous colour scheme, then thats what they'll send out, quite simple really!

When you buy new shoes, gloves & helmet when you realise your existing kit doesn't match your bike.

Possibly, but unlikely to be the bushes, more likely to be either your brake caliper moving on it it's mount so check that's tight or the pads moving in the caliper.
Hold onto where the stantions go into the lowers & rock again, see if you can feel any play in there.

No matter how much abuse, if built properly they shouldn't loosen, unless you've got a flat spot in the rim,
Might be worth trying a drop on spoke freeze or similar if it causes a problem.

As long as it's not too bad it's do-able, but better & easier if you take the tyre off.
Why does it need re tensioning though? Is it a cheap build, as a decent build should never need re tensioning?

Try this, you just need to select the year from the drop down menu
http://www.marzocchi.com/Template/contenuto.asp?LN=UK&idC=%2D1&IdFolder=777

I built a medium '06 one up last year, perfect condition, 105/Ultegra 10speed mix, carbon seatpost, carbon bars etc. Rode it twice, hence why I sold it & got less than £600 for it when I thought it was worth closer to £800, so never as much as you think it should be!

I just use HT2 spacers, ss sprocket from DMR/Gusset/whoever else I can find cheap & a tensioner from my old LBS for about £10, easy.

It's very unusual for Cyclescheme to take long. The only problem we ever had was with the employer, not Cyclescheme themselves. Longest we ever waited was 4 weeks, quickest was back in 5 days!
Ask the shop to see what the progress is, they can check it if they log into the Cyclescheme website.

I still have my first mountain bike-a 1993 Ridgeback 706RS & the first bike I ever won a race on ('97 GT Zaskar) Haven't ridden either of them in years, but no way I'm selling them!
Also have several others over the years filling up the shed that just don't get used-perfectly normal & completely acceptable behaviour

You shouldn't need any adaptors for the brake if you're just going to 20mm, but obviously you will if you,re changing rotor size at the same time.

Assume you mean chain guide & not chain? Then yes, just find one that doesn't need 'ISCG mounts'
DMR for one make them, pretty sure MRP do as well.

Drill the head off the bolt, if the remaining bit won't come out, you get new cleat plates with Shimano cleats anyway, so it's not the end of the world, or someone on here will most likely have a pair in their spares box, I might even have some somewhere!

Bricks & the like will depend on what you're place is built of, may restrict where you can get the right ones from.
Try Wickes, you might be surprised at their prices, or try proper bulders merchants. Or leave it to the builders who are doing the work? Do you have the knowledge & skills to do major works? Not being funny, but if you don't know where to get the materials sugests you don't have much experience of this kind of thing.

I've just built a new pair using Pro 2's, but would MUCH rather be listening to a DT 240. Such a nice sounding hub without being too loud

Will depend on the type of geometry a bike has.
I'm 5'8 & ride a medium Giant TCR (50cm), but have also ridden a Felt F5 in a 54cm & a handmade steel frame in a 56cm, all of which fitted.
It varies hugely, depending on the geometry type, so you really do need to try first.

It'll make a bit of difference, the Giant shocks are actually pretty good usually!
The main benefit will be the adjustment you get & the pro pedal that the Giant shock doesn't have.
I spoke to Matt about it yesterday, so hopefully he'll be in touch with you at some point today. Please don't shout at me if he doesn't-I don't work there any more, he's my replacement when I left after eight years! 😉

Just bear in mind that the Manfrotto doesn't usually come with a head, that'll need to be added onto it.

Have a look at the Red Snapper stuff, gets very good reviews for the money.
Although haven't used one myself, I use an Old Benbo with Manfrotto head & it's excellent, but might be a bit expensive unless you go S/H?

Home

I'd go froglegs or Tektro out of choice like those above, but actually use some old crappy shimano ones-because I'm tight & got them FOC from my old shop

2010 XTR shifters, still boxed & unused
DT hubs on 717 rims,
Complete '97 Zaskar
Middleburn hubs on 717 rims
Giant XTC frame
Manitou forks
couple of disc brakes
cassettes (x3)
Caramba cranks
FSA chainsets (x2)

Few other bits but I can't really remember exactly what.