You'll be lucky given what the price of tubes is now. Long gone are the days of being able to buy them for pence each, sadly.
£2.50 for decent tubes seems like a good deal to me anyway.

You've got a van & want to put bikes on the outside?

How odd, I guess things have changed since I left the shop. Should be able to get the number for you tomorrow if you're stuck.
*edit* try this one 01276 404870

Mercian do campag spares in UK – exclusively IIRC.

Nope, Chickens & CSN both do campag spares as well.

All done through Amer sports now
Amer sports
But you might have to go through a dealer rather than direct.

LBS could well have something that'll work in stock. We used to keep all sorts of adjusters in.

That's very interesting LoCo, thanks for that. I honestly thought they were stripped down completely.

YES-or you could just have a look on the site of the people who do the work & that might tell you….here

Depends what they go in for, a full service is just that-a full service. Somewhere like TF or Mojo would strip them down to component form, before inspection, cleaning, replacing seals & rebuild.
Most forks are pretty easy to do if you understand how they work & follow the manufacturers instructions.
Agree with PP, the only thing you really can't do yourself if size the bushes if you want to go that far with them.

Anyone up for a midweek one next week by anychance?

STW users always seems to value things lower than other forums & ebay IME. So I'd say try elsewhere. I'd say it's well worth £350 & would be amazed if it didn't go for that if not more on ebay.

Because most people on here want things that are worth £XXX for about 20p & you're obviously wrong for thinking it's worth any more 😉
(possibly)

Or could just be that not much is selling well at the moment, I've been having similar problems with some rare car bits I've got for sale, have only been offered a fraction of their supposed value.

The sprocket isn't slipping round is it? Had that once when it hadn't been fitted onto the hub properly & the three 'splines' were only contacting the hub by half what they should have been & it just slipped round under load.

Watched (some of) the video & see where you're goin wrong now-you're riding a Marin, get rid of that & all will be well 😀

IMHO, yes worth going for handbuilds-IF they're built well.
If you think it's worth it for the MTB, why not for road as well?
I've got Mavic Aksiums on mine at the moment, but as soon as funds allow I'll be having a nice pair of decent handbuilds.

Learn to ride a bit more lightly? Sorry, but you must be hitting things bloody hard to be pinch flatting every ride.

Just enough to take the slack out, you can use the adjusters on the rr mech (if it has one) & shifters to tune it up. SO turn them out at least one complete turn before you start.
Doesn't really make any difference if you do fr or rr first, but I usually do rr.

Speed is your friend-flat out then lift both feet up in the air to keep them try & hope you make it to the other side before you stop…

Either that, or get off & carry your bike through whilst on foot.

Have done both in the past when required! Depth seemed to be the deciding factor.

Sold an old Trance a while ago & haven't replaced it (twas my Peaks/Wales etc bike) Getting back my old 456 on friday to rebuild & really looking forward to it, which'll give me a full sus as a xc bike & hardtail as a 'big bike' odd way round, but will be able to give a recent honest opinion next week when it's back together!

You'll need canti type levers ideally, as V brake levers pull a different amount of cable (10mm iirc) compared to canti & road caliper brakes, which'll give you a really wooden feeling lever with little power.

It's not an FCR then as they went out of production in '08 & were replaced by the Rapid for '09.

Very much doubt you'll get anything bigger than a fairly smooth 28 on it, they're just not designed for it, sorry.

*Edit* Sorry, '09 was the cross over year.

That's knackered mate. Bent at the crown & damage on top & down tubes as above by the look of it.
Would guess at a hard front impact

With the bearings directly into the frame its the frame that will wear. (and quicker if the tolerances are worse).

Wrong, the bearings don't rotate on the frame itself, they still have cartridge bearings, so only run on themselves, the parts that sit againt the inside of the headtube don't move at all.
Don't see the problem myself, only issues come when people don't understand what headset they need or which ACB's will fit.

You'll be lucky to get anything bigger than a 28 on as there isn't a huge amount of clearance between the chainstays for anything much bigger iirc, although does depend what year FCR as some have more clearance than others. No chance if its one of the later ones

Bought mine as a back up for Mayhem & Sleepless this year & have ended up using it more than my main light!
Give out a decent enough amount of light, although I'd say less than the claimed 900lumen.
Crap fitting onto bars though, get a lot of vibration, so will be making my own bracket for it & no way of attaching the battery back, so use inlusation tape.
For what they cost though don't think you can really go wrong

They were all called XTC NRS* The blue/white one is an '02 XTC NRS 960.
'00 & '01 had names-Mammoth, mount snow etc. then went onto XTC NRS 950/960/980 etc.
'03 NRS 1/2/3/4 & that carried on until it was dropped in '06? when the Anthem took over.
Composite ones came out in '04 iirc.
Design changed slightly in 03 as the main pivot moved to be higher than the BB & all pivots were bearings, instead of some being top hat bushes.
Hope some of that makes sence.

So if anyone is looking to try out a cheap and efficient short travel FS frame than NRS is a good buy. Just don't get 2001 models as they break. Mine is a 2002 and the seat tube area looks different.

It's the 2000 models & some very early '01 frames that had the problem, later '01 onwards were all fine. As long as they have a full length piece between top & bottom shock mounts on each side of the seat tube & not a seperate piece welded at each end (hope that makes sence)
18.5 would suit 5'7-5'11 according to Giant, but in reality upto 6', 6'2 at a push IMHO.

99.5km/h Will? Knew you were quick, but come on!!

It'll handle like a pig, but if you've got them & want to fit them, do it.
100mm they're fine, but much more & they tend to lift a lot when climbing & don't turn in as well as they do with a shorter fork

work fine for me. Cheers dot for updating that they're out.

I know it's Sram Red, I'm just not a fan, sorry.
If it had Dura Ace then yes-Spot on (IMHO only of course)
It's still FAR better than mine 😉

Very nice, I wanted one of those, but the bank said no 🙁
Shame about the silly gears though…

Lehmanns are a repair centre for loads of different brands.
I had problems with a Canon camera I bought from Warehouse express & it went there to be fixed.
Excellent service & quick turn around, sounds like a decent enough answer to me.
*edit* pretty sure you'll need a returns number before sending it to Lehmanns, but give them a ring & talk to them, they're more likely to be able to give you the information you want.

If you're carefull getitng it off it'll be fine, or if you're not confident getting it off with it deforming, get someone with a crown race puller to do it for you.

Not all of them are available in the 22", so check first.
I would have said the 20" would be fine, friend of mine is 6'2 & went for the L over the XL. FWIW, I'm only 5'8 & ride an 18", so that would be way too small for you IMO

Depends how far you want to go with the service, do you want to replace every seal & glide ring in the fork while your doing them? If so you'll need both kits. If you just want to give them a bit of a clean out & replace the seals that are leaking, you'll only need the seal kit that's listed at the top & not the damper seal kit.
Spring wise-whoever you want to buy it from really, but if you're buying the seals from TFT, you might as well buy it from there.
If you need to know anything else just ask, there's plenty of people on here who do their own.

I hated the course for a start, but grew to actually quite enjoy it as the race went on-thought it great for solo'ing.

Disapointed with the commentary, didn't seem as on the ball & quirky as in past events, unless that was just when I rode past? Never really heard any funny stories about teams or riders etc.

A shame you don't get anything for finishing-very minor point I know, but for example I got home, went to see my parents & first thing asked 'show me your medal then' & couldn't show them a thing to prove I'd even competed.

Did it last year, it's good fun event.
Sadly can't make it this year though as I'm working 🙁 Gutted as wanted to get a better result than last year having injured myself on the first run!

It's not here

THAT is awesomeness itself-A Manitou Softail, one of the few Retro bikes I'd do alot of nasty things to own