Yes flows are tough rims, but it would also depend on the quality of the build in the first place. If was a poor build, it’s always going to be difficult to correct it perfectly. A well built wheel should very rarely, if ever need truing up once it’s built.

Double post, sorry.

niner to match the forks shirley?

While my wife & boy were still in hospital. No point in sitting around at home doing nothing when it’s not visiting times. So made the most of it!

I use Silkolene 5, 10 & 15 then mix it when something between is required.
Buy it all from my local friendly motorbike shop, loads cheaper than anywhere else, always on the shelf & top quality stuff.

Was knocked off my bike as a kid after school, bloke paid for the bike, but instead of buying another cheap Raleigh, I bought a better 2nd hand one out of the local paper.
Better bike, did more with it.
Tried xc racing a year later (age 14) got hooked, haven’t stopped riding since- 16 years later, just got slower…

I’d check both the wheel & the frame. Unlikely a decent builder would have let the wheel go out dished badly.

Let us know how you get on. It’s on my short list for a new purchase hopefully later this year.

That’s only 3 ounces heavier than my carbon TCR road bike! (IF the scales are to be believed)
Nice read though, always good to hear about kit that’s actually been used.
The twisted Sid’s-Wasn’t there an issue with some that weren’t quite as straight as they should have been from new?

The only times I’ve snapped a chain it’s either been at the joining pin with a Shimano chain (factory fitted)
or after it’s been damaged through chainsuck when really muddy.
Since I swapped all mine over to KMC chains, I haven’t’ snapped one though. Yet.

have you tried the bottle mounts that fasten to the seatpost?

Or you can just toe straps from toe clips. Hold plenty well enough & often found very cheap or free at your friendly LBS

I can explain a lbs rip off when mine is selling frame protection for more than the RRP

The clue’s in the first ‘R’ Recommended.
Doesn’t mean they have to sell it at or less than that figure.

As above, if you don’t like, don’t buy. Simples 😉

They’re not a problem if they fit properly.
Giant I know for one used to fit them to loads on their bikes as standard from 30.8 & 9 down to 27.2.

97 GT Zaskar & ’93 Ridgeback 706RS, neither of which I really ride, but can’t bring myself to sell them.
Although did stupidly sell a ’92 Kona Explosif 🙁

Ride on road more, I find very little mud there.
Ok, not as much fun as the mountain bike, but at least I’m still getting out & not destroying kit as quickly.

If you’re anywhere near, there should big plenty of signs out already saying what the closure times are.

Mine was a swine for it, tried two different chain sets, one XT & an FSA, Shimano & KMC chains & none of it made any difference. Eventually wore through the chainstay.
Welded up the hole & carried on riding it. It’s a cheap frame, so not really surprised they have their problems.

Weather has killed it for me this year, although did MM & entered for Sleepless. Hated Mayhem (1st time I’ve ever thought that since my 1st in ’02)
The likes of MM & Sleepless are getting a big stagnated, same format, same courses, same (often poor) facilities will only attract people for so long.
There are more endure/endurance events in the calendar than there ever used to be, diluting the same number of competitors between them
I also now to go abroad to do a Sportive or two, better weather (usually) better value (IMO) bigger entrance, better organisation.

Yes, but depends where I’m riding. If I’m going on a decent ride & wearing my Camelbak I carry all sorts of stuff inc shock pump & even spare cables.
Local ride-no, stuff my pockets with just enough kit to survive.

Yes, but depends where I’m riding. If I’m going on a decent ride & wearing my Camelbak I carry all sorts of stuff inc shock pump & even spare cables.
Local ride-no, stuff my pockets with just enough kit to survive.

Sadly not, we’re heading to france in a ford focus with a boot full of stuff & a 5 month old baby, so the more kit I can get on the roof the better!

Lovely looking bike, but why clamp it on the top tube when you’ve got a seat post in it?

Had one in the shop for a couple of years before I left. Seemed pretty good, same as loads of others out there, just with a different badge on it.

Road this morning for a couple of hours. Working this evening & all day tomorrow so all I’ve got time for.

I’ve rebuilt a few of them for various reasons, hubs falling to bits, spokes snapping, rims flat spotting more easily than a lightweight DT rim etc.
Nice in theory, but I’m not a huge fan.

Yep, ring’s had it. Cassette probably isn’t in the best of shape either.

I know you are Will, just make sure my beer doesn’t get warm while you’re waiting for me to finish!
We did it last year, finishing at Alp d’huez, so thought we’d go to the Pyrenees this year.

The only special took you need is for the rear hub when you need to change the bearing behind the ring nut.
Other than that, common sense & reasonable DIY skills are plenty enough.

`we’re down there next weekend for the Etape with a 4 month old. No help really, but you’re not alone!
Last year, you needed to be off the roads early before the closures, but it was signed when they’d be shut from/until.

I’ve ridden there twice recently, where the hell is this “downhill” area?

You’ll miss it completely if you just ride the red route. Used to go past it, but now you won’t see it.
Not exactly a DH park as they’re aren’t any hills, but fun to play on for 10 minutes.Probably just over half way round, you crowd a fire road at the top of a climb, turn left instead of straight over, about 100m on your right there’s a sign. Next to the entrance for the dirt jumps.

If you’re ever a bit further north, Mansfield area, give me a shout if you like & I’ll happily check it over for you or build you one if it needs doing.

Depends on the manufacturer, when their product launch is, how much stock they’ve got left etc. Sometimes as early as July, unless it’s a spring launch, then Jan/Feb.

11 at the moment, mixture of on & off road.

I thought you had to finish the lap you’re on after 24hrs?
As two teams above us are showing results but finishing before the 24hours are up.

Tubs or Clincher?
Racing or just riding?

Quick ebay search brings these up
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schwalbe-Delta-Cruiser-Tyre-GUM-WALL-26-x-1-3-8-Town-Bike-Dutch-Bike-/200768517554?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item2ebebc75b2#ht_500wt_1037

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Two-Raleigh-Record-26-x-1-3-8-White-Wall-Bicycle-Bike-Tyres-Inner-Tubes-Dutch-/330717072634?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item4d00460cfa#ht_572wt_1037

I use dry when it’s actually dry, but as it is at the moment I’m using wet lube again on mtb’s as the dry doesn’t seem to last more than an hour in the wet sand in the woods.
Dry lube on the road bikes though, as anything else is just too heavy IMO

I can get them if you need one, about £8 iirc

Any half decent shop will have them in stock, but don’t be sold something like 26×1.5 or whatever as a similar replacement as they won’t fit for the reasons stated above. They’re cheap though, less than £10 each usually.