Sounds like you’ve still got the B link attached to the mech. On any recent Cube with the Shimano hanger (they do two versions) you need to remove the B link & mount the mech directly to the hanger.
Either that or the cable is the wrong side of the clamp bolt, but most likely the B link issue.

I love the range the 2×11 gives me on my new xc bike, but I’ll still end up swapping it to a 1x for weight saving & looks more than anything else.
Performance wise, the 2x is still superior IMO for so many types of riding.

16 front, 20 rear using a Topeak digital gauge.
Nobby Nic 2.25 front, Rocket Ron rear on a 29er xc bike

Degla runs about the same no matter what the weather’s doing unless it’s covered in snow!
Weather’s looking good today though, so should be great up there, just remember the shop & cafe is usually closed on a monday.

Are they threaded on like some are? 5mm allen keys in the end possibly.
If they are just push on & that tight, try an axle vice.

Yes, they come with bearings, crown race, compression ring, top cover etc, but no top cap & star nut/head doctor, so you’ll need to order that as well if you want it coloured.

Good luck if you’re going to try & run a SG or bike park MM with a tube, they’re a nightmare to fit!
The BP grip well enough, but are steel bead, so are very heavy.

Aztec for me on my CX bikes for the last couple of seasons without any issues.
Light, reliable & transmit plenty of power.

I’m using what I’ve used for years in various versions (different length stems, bar rise etc) & run Renthal on everything, love the shape. Even during blind testing late last year, the Renthal came out top within the group.

Strange, it’s been the most popular 29er for us by far!
We’ve had a demo for a while & everyone who’s ridden it has loved it & bought one, I guess it depends on where & how it’s ridden, as with everything.

Save your money & buy a decent BB instead.

I did it last year & got changed at each transition.
It may be a few minutes each time, but I wanted to be comfortable.
I borrowed a Garmin 1000 for the bike legs so i could have decent maps on it & a Fenix 3 watch for the run legs.
It’s an amazing event, gutted I can’t make it this year due to other commitments, but planning on returning for 2018.
Best of luck with it & if you need any help, give me a shout.

I’m 66kg, running Nobby Nic 2.25’s at the moment on a carbon HT & I’m 22 rear, 18 front.

Assuming the bearing has gone in part way, then you’ve had to remove it again, I’d say there’s a burr that needs cleaning out before it’ll go in fully.
Happens quite often if you’re not careful, using a proper bearing press etc.
If it is that, just clean it up with a stanley blade so it’s smooth, grease it up & try again.
If it isn’t that, then I don’t know-I’ve got three sets of those hubs & never had an issue!

Air has migrated past the IFP, really common, especially if you ever pick the bike up by the saddle with the post down, hang it on a rail with the seat down etc.
Service will sort it easily enough. Any decent LBS should be able to sort it.

I’ve known Paul for 10+ years, he’s a good guy, but not just an event organiser, he rides himself & as above, currently away competing.

Have you measured the axle compared to the original?
Did the replacement come from Hope, as I thought they’d run out of XC axles now

If you’re changing pawls & springs because they’re slightly burred, please change the ratchet ring as well, or you’ll be changing it all again in only a few rides.
Something we come across quite a few times

I had the same issue trying to get parts.
Made my feelings known to Upgrade & had a local suspension wizard machine the part I needed.

Unite are another company making them to fit, we’ve fitted loads & they’re great.
Made locally to us too in Welshpool, so always good to support a small local company.
PCD as said above is 96/64.

Pretty sure we’ve got them in at The Trailhead in Shrewsbury if you’re struggling to find them

Depends on the bars, I haven’t used carbon paste on bars & I’ve been running them for years, not dead yet & no nuns or kittens that I’m aware of have died due to my actions.
I asked the question to Renthal late last year & they said it wasn’t required on theirs (having said that, I assume that’s if also running a Renthal stem)

Yes there are such things, but they’re designed for kids cx racing, so guessing that’s not what you’re after

712 in total.
Skoda-170
Jag-238
Focus-115
Toy 1-80
Toy 2-105
Mower-4

PTFE isn’t great to be putting in your forks unless you know exactly what it is, as according to someone who knows far more about me when it comes to suspension forks, it can react with the the coating on the fork bushes, leading to sticking & premature failure.
(I had a similar conversation with him last week when I asked about silicon based fork lube’s)

Few local 10’s for me, possibly a 25, but nothing more.
Road bike in TT mode for me= Carbon wheels & Aeroshell on my helmet.

In an LBS (a quality one at that) not much.
I’ve been a mechanic for around 15 years now, love it, but money isn’t good.
I’m fortunate enough that my OH has a ‘proper’ job & I’m also self employed doing other things evenings/weekends.

https://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&id=530
Not too difficult to find.
Number 15, assuming they’re open bath (most likely in ’09) The 10w red, but green would do if you haven’t got red (IMO) it’s an old fork, so wouldn’t worry too much about the difference.

Why not go & try one for size?
I’d guess at a 56, as they’re longer than the earlier versions, which were a touch on the short side to put it mildly (I’m 5’8 & needed a 58 to get the reach I wanted!) Much better now & a 56 should be right.
Cube dealers are everywhere, so you shouldn’t have problems finding one to try.

I’m 29/30″ waist & wear the small, but I do have the adjusters pretty tight, so you might be ok

Standard right hand thread on both levers.
Take it to someone who knows what they’re doing before you do any further damage.

Yes they do now. Been available for a while in their pick ‘n’ mix headsets.

They do trap mud, there’s no denying that, but it takes 5 minutes to remove the link & clean it all out.
We do it on every SC that comes through the workshop.
Bearings are free for life anyway, labour if you choose the shop to do it for you is minor as they’re the easiest bikes I’ve ever come across to do a bearing change.

Looks ok, just check that the pivot pin for the actuator isn’t snapped, as in one of your photos it looks like it night be on a slight angle & I’ve seen it once before

I thought the same. Nice touch that they all acknowledged the black band at the finish line. Good on them.

Think of what you can do with the rear shock as a lower service on your forks-it’s great interim maintenance, but you can’t get into the damping circuit(s)
That needs to be done by someone who really knows what they’re doing because of the nitrogen & the more specialist tool involved.
So yes, your LBS is very much correct

Tubeless ‘cross-you’re on your own-hated it & could never get it reliable!
I gave up & bought tubs for racing & stick with tubes for playing.

What rim/tape/valve/sealant are you using?

fanatic278 – Member
My 5010 bought in March came with a grease gun and pointless black wash bag. I queried the sho about the warranty card, and was told that they send it off for me.

Thats wrong I’m afraid-there is no warranty card for SC, the customer is required to register it themselves online-we sometimes do it in store with the customer at time of collection.

Benefit is they’re (in theory) stronger & stiffer due to the lack of flex with the removal of the bend.
In reality they’re a pain in the ass, especially when you snap a spoke hundreds of miles from home, as it’s rare a shop has the right length. With a conventional spoke, any bike shop in the world (probably) will have one to keep you riding.
Just my humble opinion though of course.