You sent him money before you’d even finalised the deal & you’re complaining because you haven’t got what you bought?
What planet do you live on??

All guns blazing quoting legal rights won’t get you very far.
Being nice & talking to the shop calmly could well help, especially when it sounds like it’s border line warranty.

Congratulations-I know the feeling as I started at one of my new local LBS’s last week after a year out of the trade.
Still self employed as well, but nice to top things up when it’s quiet.
Great business to be in, even if the money isn’t the best

Ah, very good, I remember.
Hope they’re going well. I’ve moved now & got a job back in the trade, so doing less for myself as just don’t have the time sadly 🙁

Right in the middle by one of the Uni buildings, but I don’t know which yet.
Apparently they’ve got some CCTV footage, so hopefully that might help
do I know you glacier? Name looks familiar, but can’t work out who you are!

I must have been doing it wrong then using a deep socket, never had any problems, even on the 2013 model.

A socket on an extension bar?

Or you could go to a Giant dealer & buy one from Giant UK that you know will fit & most likely be cheaper.

DOn’t leave your bike anywhere in CP where you’re not on it.
You’re not supposed to, but if you can get away with it, I’d be tempted to keep it in the chalet with you, especially at night & make sure you take a decent lock with you. Sadly it did have a bit of a reputation for bike thefts, but to be honest I don’t know exactly what it’s like now.
( until last month I lived the opposite side of the forest)

On your bike it’s about 5 mins & you’re on the Kitchener trail-it’ll take you longer to drive than ride there!
Go out of the main carpark of CP until the road bends right & there’s a fireroad on your left with no entry signs but it’s a permissive path for CP visitors. Ride down there about a mile or so until you reach a cross roads on fire roads.
Straight on again & the trail crosses you in about half a mile

Hello!
I’m a wedding photographer now based on the Shropshire/Welsh borders near Oswestry.
Please feel free to get in touch or have a look at my website http://www.saundersphotography.co.uk
I don’t do packages as such, but taylor to whatever the client wants from disc only through to the Graphistudio wedding books.
Sorry for the brief post, but I’m on my phone at the moment & not my computer

As above, you have the wrong tool.
The right one will fit over the axle locknut.

That’s not a cassette but a screw on freewheel. Different tool.
Easiest way to to get the tool in a vice, drop the freewheel on it & use the rim as a lever to unscrew it.
The tool fits over the locknut on the axle & into the splines in the freewheel
*edit* same as this, but solid axle not qr

IPA & no I don’t mean the beverage version.
What got onto them though? as pads could be contaminated & need cleaning/replacing as well

It’s even possible to get a straight 1 1/8″ fork to fit-Hope crown race adaptor, different top bearing ( I fitted one out of a Cane Creek S2) & compression ring. Easy.

No pics to hand but I’ve got a ’97 Zaskar-the first bike I ever won a race on. Used to race XC, DH & CX all on that bike! & a ’93 Ridgeback 706RS, my 1st mountain bike, just could never bring myself to sell it.
Did have a’92 Kona Explosif that I sold about a year ago, although I might end up with that back at some point.

Bad time to sell-yes.
I sold mine this time last year on ebay & got about half what I wanted for it.
When it came to buying another one, I had to pay more than I wanted as it was near the start of the season.
This time I’m hanging onto it until late summer!

Easton post?

I’ve used them several times for car bits without any problems when I’ve been out that way & stock levels always seemed good even for odd stuff.
No idea on the bike side though as I’ve never bought from them even though it’s in the same building just turn right instead of left through the door!

It’s fine, 8.5mm drill bit & clean the burrs off afterwards.

nipples should be silver. If they’re any other colour it means they’re not brass, and are wrong

Or prolock, they’re brass & black 😉

I’m 5’8, 30″ leg & ride medium Giants.
I’ve had smalls, but mediums fit better.

I use a Sigma PC something or other.
Cheaper than Polar, works with the equipment in the gym, able to sets zones etc.
They say it’s ECG accurate as well. I’ve no idea if that’s true, but works for me.

I’m using an old bottle of Fenwicks ‘All condition’ at the moment.
Not the cleanest, but seems to last well on the road, but not quite as well off road.

It;s nasty.
I live on the edge of the forest & just simply avoiding it as much as I can at the moment!
If it freezes hard it’ll be good fun again, but if the temp rises & snow melts it won’t be a huge amount of fun.
Make sure you’ve got some spare brake pads & aren’t too precious about your drive train either!

Give Skedaddle a ring & tell then what you’re after.
Really nice helpful people who will do what they can for you.
Tell them Dave Saunders recommended them,

You’re back then Cozz?
Might drop in & see you in a bit if I get chance

fyford – Member

You can get helicoils for cranks. Ream out, tap, wind insert in, job done. Saves needing new cranks

Bigger rides or groups then yes I carry one. Only basic, but better than nothing

99% on my own.
Mainly because I have no friends.
Partly because I work weekends & have a family-allowing only for oddball timed rides.

Are you sure the hanger hasn’t been bent whilst running as a SS?
Probably wouldn’t cause a problem until you go back to gears

Met a client on Saturday & spent Sunday with the family as I’d been away working all last week

I’ve had all sorts over the years from £5 cheapos upwards & now stick to the trusty Park mini chain brute or CT5 as it’s also known

I tried MTB pedals & shoes that took both types of cleats as a compromise, but that lasted about 4 months before I bought some proper shoes & pedals. I found pressure built up too much & caused a sore/hot spot.
Since swapping no problem at all. Just running the cheapest Shimano SL pedals but carbon soled shoes

But you haven’t said what the crankset is or what you want to achieve from the upgrade?
How worn is the chainset?
Do you want different gearing etc?

LBS? Most will have loads lying around

Some will say yes, there’s a huge difference.
I personally do what you’re thinking & buy outer per 30m roll & spend the difference in money saved elsewhere.
Use good quality inners though, not the crappy cheap galvanised one- Stainless or better still XTR

bencooper – Member
Plus fat bottom brackets are ugly.

Next thing I’m building (well, next after this road frame) is a Hetchins. A 29er MTB Hetchins.

I’d love to see that!
A friend of mine has just finished restoring his Hetchins-work of art.

Stans notubes or similar kit will have everything you need. Tape, rim strip & sealant.

You don’t need UST tyres to run tubeless, but some work better than others (easier to seal)
There’s quite a few tips on the notubes website that’ll probably answer most of your questions, but be prepared for lots of swearing & cursing the first time you try it!

Actually, seeing as none of them are kept here at the moment:

Frame: Giant Anthem Advanced (’09)
Forks: Fox F80 RL
Brakes: XT with 160mm rotors
Gears: 3×9 xt/xtr
Wheels: Pro2/DT rim/Rev spokes

Frame: Planet X Uncle John cx
Forks: Carbon PX
Brakes: Kore canti’s
Gears: Sram Apex 10sp
Wheels: Mavic Aksium

Frame & forks: Giant TCR Advanced
Gears & brakes: Ultegra/105 mix
Wheels: American Classic/Alpha 340/Rev

Frame: On One 456
Forks: Manitou Sherman
Gears: XT 2×9
Brakes: Rubbish Tektro at the moment
Wheels: Unbranded front, yet to be built rear

Raleigh Activator 2