I’ll agree that the Park spanners & screwdrivers are next to useless-not really any better than sealey stuff.
For that I tend to use Snap On ( interest free) Or Kennedy Professional which are the same as Halfords Pro range

bencooper – Member

I have a set of Shimano Airlines – does that count?

Blimey! Didn’t think any of those actually existed! Where did you manage to find it??

I’ve got a pair of green Middleburn hubs from around 97 & a pair of Caramba double barrel cranks.
Also stupidly sold my Giant CX Prototype when I needed the money-still haven’t found anything that rode as well as that 🙁

Aksiums do (or should have) a wear line.
If that’s not there, it’s time for a replacement.
Will of this parish has found the very same thing with his Aksiums today.

I’ve done that much with the ones in the shop in the last week!

One piece of advice I would give is to buy some skinny tyres.
Assuming you’re running 26″ try & get something like Conti xc 1.5 or similar.
Not so important early season when it’s fairly dry, but makes a big difference when it’s gets really wet & sticky, as well as giving loads more clearance when the grass starts to clog things up.

I’d love to know what people are doing to say Park cutters don’t last.
The first shop I worked in the original set had been there 8 years, used every day & were still going strong when I left.
My personal ones are 5 years old & haven’t had any problems & the shop I now work in uses Park as well-no idea how old they are but they’re faultless.
Assuming we’re talking about the proper ones & not the cheaper DIY version?

If it’s your local league races, you’ll be fine on an MTB, I raced 3-4 seasons on my mtb with skinny tyres before I could justify buying a cx bike.

05/06 Giant Reign-the original one with the forged basket for the rear shock.
Didn’t realise how good that bike was until it’d gone to raise the cash for something else 🙁

It’s easy enough on road to grab a few bits out of your pockets & eat on the move is it not?

It will just ‘work’ as long as you use the right ferrules.
Gear outer comes in two sizes: 4 & 5mm. If it is 6, then it’s brake outer not gear.
Usually the ferrules for 4mm are plastic & metal for 5&6mm.
Inner cables are all 1.2mm for Shimano but 1.1mm for some Sram, although they will work with each other without problem.
XTR is no different, just a special grease in the outer & sometimes coated inners.

Used it for a couple of years where I used to work & it was ok but nothing more. Now where I am now we use Stans & it is a better product IMO, does seem to seal a bit quicker.

Torx bits-find one that’s slightly too big, hammer it in & unscrew-works 99% of the time.
*edit*
Ideally one of the small bits that does into the end of a ratchet driver rather than the P handled or multi tool type, so you can hit hit better & more square on to make sure it goes in properly.

I’m guessing it’s either M6 or M8, shouldered cap head?
If so, most decent hardware shops should be able to sort one out for you.

We’ve got three on order at the last count, sadly not mine but can’t wait to see them in the metal! 8)

Try ringing round some felt dealers-there used to be a box of spares you could buy as a dealer, so someone somewhere might have some without having to buy a full kit.

It depends how long it takes.
I’ve done one in 5 minutes yet spent an hour on another.
Really is impossible to tell until you’re working on it

Shimano europe website might help.
You can take the assembly out of the shifter housing via a grub screw & pivot bolt, might give you more room to work (just watch out for the lever return spring)
You can’t strip them much further though without killing it completely.
Has it possibly pulled the cable end past where it’s meant to sit & gone further inside the shifter?
I’ve seen that a couple of times & it’s do-able, just fiddly.

Both shoulders are dodgy due to dislocations.
Lower lack isn’t great due to degenerative discs to need regular Chiropractor visits.
Although oddly enough when I’m struggling to walk when my back’s bad, riding seems to take the pressure off & lessen the pain-win win situation, bike therapy!

Best? Cheap?
Sadly the two will never go together.

Yes

new chain on worn cassette?
chain & cassette worn out completely
rear mech or bent
just guesses, very difficult to diagnose without seeing it.

How old is the drivetrain?

I find emery cloth on a flat workbench & rub the pads onto it the most effective way & most likely to keep the pad flat as well & not wear it on a strange angle.

In theory wobbliscott you are of course correct, but in reality I haven’t come across a ‘sealed’ DOT system yet that doesn’t need a fluid change after a few years.
The fluid always goes cloudy (water ingest) & can cause corrosion issues in severe cases.

Depends on the brakes.
DOT systems, every year/18 months as the fluid goes all crappy with it being hygroscopic
Mineral systems, when they feel spongy-so hardly ever unless there’s another problem with them.

This is one of the main reasons we only sell genuine pads-the amount of time it can take to make aftermarket ones fit!
Often they have too much material on them & need grinding back before fitting & often don’t come with the springs that can get trapped & wrecked if you wear them really low.
I know there’s still a huge difference in price, just saves time & hassle in the workshop as much as anything else.

No they won’t.
WHy not just take your pedals with you as well?

CX bike has a seized jockey wheel ( I really do not like Sram 🙁 )
Others all fine, clean, lubed & ready to ride.
Nothing more frustrating that having chance for a ride at the last minute to find your bike doesn’t work!

Perfectly doable without taking the BB out, although depending on how much swarfe drops down, you might want to so you can give it a good clean out

Or any bikeshop/garage that has an adjustable reamer. Really simple job.

I’d be talking to a Physio or Chiropractor ASAP.

I’d had back pain on & off for years & turned out to be a long term degenerative disc problem.

Cube AMS?

If I had £1k to spend on a pair of wheels, I’d buy Mavic.
Nothing beats them in terms of weight, stiffness & reliability IMO.
You’ll also still be able to get spares in several years time, unlike some manufacturers.

Most shops will I would have thought. Hardly the hardest hub to buy in!
Whereabouts are you based?

Rubbish picture, not great rider, but awesome bike.

’09 Anthem Advanced.
Wheels, bars, stem, shifters upgraded from standard, no idea on the weight.

Change your settings so they can’t follow you without your permission.
That’s what I’ve done so only people I actually know can follow me

Why not get some small ratchet straps? Nice & cheap from B&Q or similar & loads of other uses too.

I’ve been running the Schwalbe lightweight ones at around 95g for a 26×2.1 tube for the last couple of years without any problems.
On my road bike though the next step will be the silly light & stupid expensive Eclipse ones to save a bit more weight, but only on my best wheels at over £40 a tube!!

get some Eclipse tubes if you want them light
http://www.eclipse.ch/new/Tubes.html

I’d personally give him the refund & refuse to deal with him, but that’s just me.