wysiwyg – Member
They’re from the same factory as the renthal iirc

Not quite right, but there was a tenuous link between the two.

Get one of the Hope reducers, I’ve fitted quite a few of them & they work well, then just fit the crown race that comes with the headset.
Job done & not expensive

I was going to say a Cube (I’ve got a Reaction GTC & been VERY impressed by it) but that’s 69deg head angle with a 100mm fork, so might be bait slacker than you’re looking for & you might struggle getting it frame only again.

Extra aren’t doing Easton anymore, that’s gone to Zyro, so I’m guessing they’ve got CB to replace it.
Extra have always been great to deal with though, so reason to think they won’t be with the CB stuff.

Possibly, you might have pulled the hose slightly at the lever & dislodged the olive, but that would be unlikely

Formula brakes with a problem? Surely not…
Bleeding them will usually improve them, just make sure you do it properly & keep the kit handy for when you have to of them again in a few weeks time.

They’re standard size bearings, but can’t remember what sizes.
They come as standard with metal shielded ones, but 2RS ones are fine to replace with.
Not a difficult frame to do them on at all.

http://bit.ly/YLyZfF
http://bit.ly/1cZXgFr

If your Sealskinz aren’t keeping you dry, there’s something wrong with them. Send them back.

A carbon Yeti with a suspect fracture? Now there’s a surprise…
I’d be taking that to a Yeti dealer to get it inspected by someone who’s used to dealing with them & know what they’re looking at.

I know Solo availability ( or 5010 as it’s now called I believe) hasn’t been great.
We’re waiting for several for customers that have been on back order for months!
Having said that, some SHOULD be arriving this week 😉

Genuine pivot kit from Giant is around £60 with bearings, bolts spacers etc.
Some can be a pig without the right tools, especially if they’re really worn & collapse when pressing them out, so £100-140 doesn’t sound excessive to me

Top is the right way up, but looks like there’s something stuck on the bearing? Almost looks like the compression ring is underneath the bearing, but nobody would be that daft surely..?

Different collar as the hope ones aren’t the greatest at clamping should we say..
Try carbon assembly paste, it could well help, but not sure if it’ll do enough.
Salsa clamps are great, but as with all qr clamps, make sure it’s lubed properly or it won’t work as it should

Well if you can reduce a 150mm rev to 100mm I don’t see why not

But the newer solo air revs seem to like reducing themselves in travel without even touching them!

I wouldn’t have thought so, but you’re giving me silly ideas for mine now just for a laugh!
I need to strip them down anyway, so might see how low I can go with them..
I know the DJ people have been doing it for a while with certain Marz & Fox, so no reason why it wouldn’t work

In theory that should work fine if it’s one of the dual air type that are adjusted by the spacers.
I’ve never made them lower, but I have set them in between at 90 or 110mm before

jamj1974 – Member
I’ve been told the shop is run by Sandy. Anyone know if that’s the case?

Nope, Sandy runs The Trailhead in Shrewsbury-awesome little place.
Don’t know the guys at blazing bikes, sorry.

It’s not a typical XC either though as they had a steel freehub body & the bulge is different to the one I’ve got.
It’s an old one whatever it is with that sticker & not being etched.
*edit*
the rotor splines on my xc don’t go all the way to the flange either.

I work as a mechanic & have done for the last nine years, working on road, mtb & cx bikes on a daily basis, Cytech level 3 qualified
I’ve raced dh, xc, cx & road for the last fourteen years.
I think I know how to set up a road bike’s gears 😉

I’ve got Sram on my cx bike & Shimano on my road bike.
As soon as I can afford it the Sram will either be on here for sale or in the bin & replaced with Shimano-even if I have to fit Sora! Sram is hateful stuff IMO, horrible to set up, rear mech’s love to seize up too.
IF & it’s a big IF! you get a good set, it’s a nice shifting action, but thats about all I can say, sorry.

tonyd – Member
Pump track out the back?

We’re in the process of building one 😉

We sell loads more Doss than Reverbs & people seem to love them.
Not as refined, but seem more reliable & don’t let you down on the trail when the hose gets caught…

I was actually taught to use loctite & not grease as part of my cytech training a few years ago, but generally I use an anti seize compound instead. Not sure why you’d use grease as you don’t want it coming loose, just be able to undo it when required.

They’re great to deal with & it won’t be a problem if it’s a genuine warranty claim.

King Headset but haven’t got the tools to fit it properly? Take it to your lbs & ask them. I’d charge as much as a donation in the charity box.

Pat & his team will know:
1. How many riders are entered
2. How much space they have at the venue

These I think are two quite important facts that nobody else on here knows! I’m personally not worried, it may be cosy but so what-hopefully it might bring back some of the atmosphere that was missing last year.

Hopefully someone will be along soon to put your mind at rest though, does Chipps have any more info?

I think what they want to stop is the teams taping off large areas (like they always do)
I asked one team last year if they could move the tape so we could camp & got ‘sorry mate, we’ve got to get 5 more cars & 6 tents in here yet’ & surprise surprise not one extra person/tent or vehicle turned up.. 🙄

Shimano-the best there is.
Although I’m currently running American Classic as they came with some hubs & liked the look of them on the bike.

Just don’t get the Tome Xpresso’s.
Look great, but very vague to clip into, sometimes crisp, other times-no click at all!
The cleat can also slide from side to side once engaged,not like normal float-very odd.

I move out the way whenever I can, cyclists get enough bad press as it is.
Unless it’s a segment then just scream ‘SSTTRRRAAAVVVAAAAA’ at him & carry on

Yep, done several times that I’ve seen, but I can’t show you pictures as I didn’t take any..
I’ve seen it done on a Yeti-it was tight but fitted.
A GT that had some sort of funky custom prototype dropout made to space the axel but not to alter the BB height-looks very interesting..

It’s ok for tight twisty singletrack.
Easy to put 2-3 hours together if you know where to look-ignore people who say it’s a complete waste of time & nothing there, they don’t know where to look!
I’ll be the first to admit it’s flat-almost as flat as Thetford for most of it but if you pedal harder it’s a good laugh!

InvisiFrame is great stuff. Available as a kit to DIY for around £50 iirc or £80 fitted.
Bearing in mind they can have up to 30 pieces I think the extra £30 is money well spent!
Comes in either matt or gloss finish too depending on your bikes finish.

The Trailhead in Shrewsbury are the boys to speak to, but then I would say that…

A welding mask today! Oh the excitment of sticking an rotten old toyota back together 😀

I’ve got a 3 year old working cocker spaniel, very fit & capable little dog, but no way I’d take her to a trail centre with me.
If it was a really quite ride with very few other people (local bridleways etc.) then I might consider it, but otherwise ‘it’s a no from me’

I’ve used Android & iOS recently & personally prefer Android, although I’ve got an Iphone5.
Only reason being an Android phone won’t sync with a Mac properly (I know I can get the calendar to through google etc. but not properly)
Only real reason I went for it.

£90 for a set of Snap On screwdrivers? That is cheap-mine cost double that!
For a lot of stuff, Halfords Pro is very good kit & feels nice to use.
For pliers, Knipex are about the best there is.
Hacksaw wise-it doesn’t really matter what you buy as long as you get good quality blades for it-cheap blades are a false economy.

I’ve sold my compact, gone back to 53/39 & loving it.
12-27 cassette at the moment but soon to be swapped to 12-25. I live on the Shropshireid Wales border so hardly flat & no way I’d go back to compact.
177.5 does seem long though.

If that’s the worst thing you’ve got to worry about, you have a very easy life.

Was the fact it’s listed as having a 180mm front rotor a major selling factor to you?
Would you have bought it if the spec list was showing a 160mm rotor in the first place?

*edit* No I don’t work for Giant or even a Giant dealer (although used to)

There won’t be much oil in the lowers are that’s only there as a lubricant & not damping.
You need to drop the oil & internals out of the stanchions, inspect & possibly replace (depending on how far you’re going) the seals & refill with correct weight volume of oil