I run the Ron/Ralph/Nic combo’s depending on the course.
All 29×2.25
All Snakeskin & never had a problem going tubeless with a track pump.
Yes there are lighter versions, but I’d rather have them a bit tougher

L Alpine 160AM was 33LB on our digital scales.
Nomads are lighter, but by how much depends on the spec. We’ve built them quite easily to 28lb if you’re prepared to spend!

But wheelbase will also vary depending on fork used, so will vary from bike to bike depending on the build.
Chain stay length & BB height will also dramatically affect the characteristics of the bike, but as I said I can get accurate measurements when I’ve got them both in front of me later in the week.

The Alpine isn’t WWAAYY longer than the Nomad, the TT is (near enough) the same.
Wheel base ins’t far off either IIRC, but I can get & give you exact measurements on Large on Wednesday when I’m back in the shop as we’ve got both.

Warranty.
The seals go sticky on some after a while-take it back o where you bought it from & they’ll sort it. Only takes a few days.

Road bike-90% from home.
MTB, I’m guilty of jumping in the car most of the time, even though this is just down the road!
(Ignore the golf course, I ride around that to the good stuff 😉 )

Depends if they’re the same fitting as your CX bike! (100/135 qr or bolt through etc.)
I friend of mine runs his Crest on Hope Pro2’s on his cx bike without any problems.
Just might have to be a bit careful what tyres & pressures you run.

£15 for us to fit one-minimum workshop charge. As I’m sure many LBS’s have.

Alpkit for me too.
I’ll be honest & didn’t hunk much of it when it arrived & almost returned it, but glad I didn’t.
Does what it says on the tin & actually quite like the window now, as it’s another place to put an extra light.

Or just use ply, panel pins & a black marker to make a shadow board.
Cheap & works well.

You’ll need the tool, or some other way of winding in the centre part.

Yep, I’ll be there & then racing the National Trophy on Sunday :S

TRP HY-RD feel great with a well set up lever, I was very impressed when I tried a set, but they do look a bit bulky & I’m not 100% convinced how good the’ll be at dissipating the heat on a long descent.
Another option is the Hope V twin, they’re supposed to be good if a little bit clunky looking but I haven’t tried those (I’m waiting for my new bike with the R685’s)

Any road brakes will work, assuming the Tektro ones you’ve got are pretty normal looking road callipers?
Anything Shimano will fit, as they’re all the same cable pull, only V brakes are different.

OTB onto a stump, dislocated shoulder & sore ribs.
He’s from a local group & will be fine. Back at home already from what I understand.

Are you sure the IS52 from Cane Creek is the right one? As the bearing doesn’t look right to me..
Easiest way IMO is to get the proper 1.5 lower headset (crown race & bearing, as should be fully integrated on the AMS) then get a reducer crown race form the likes of Hope.
Never going to be completely straightforward as that frame was never available as a frame only, so it’s either a warranty frame being sold off or a bike’s been stripped.

Looks great.
How did you manage to get hold of the brakes this early on?!
Can’t wait to get mine

Shimano if you’re not in a rush. I’ve heard it’s now December before the 1st batch of aftermarket ones will arrive. OEM has started to trickle through slowly & what I’m waiting for..
There’s very little real world experience of the Shimano as yet, but hopefully I can give you some feedback in the next couple of weeks!

Garmin or other proper GPS computer.
Iphone sucks balls at it-I used mine for several years before getting a Garmin, should’ve done it ages ago!

I’m running 36/46 with 11-28 & I’m not a huge fan, ideally would swap to 42 or 44 to make it less of a step & as the mud increases the 46 becomes more obsolete.
Single ring would be great in a 38 IMO, so that’s going to be my next major change when I can find a chainring I’m happy with.

I’ve killed a set of rim brake pads in a very wet & gritty cx race before, so hardly news worthy is it?
Disc brake road & cross bikes will never look as good IMO, but it’s the future & it’ll be staying to embrace it.
My new CX bike is disc even though it doesn’t look as good & a rim brake version was available-just thought I’d rather have the performance advantage.

Having spent 3 hours with the man this morning, I’d trust most of what he says regarding suspension & bike set ups for certain types of riding.
I’m hardly the greatest rider in the world, but even for me sitting on his bike that looks so wrong, but feels so right is really bizarre!

I’ve got a Ridley coming, so will be able to tell you soon, but they do tend to be a bit bigger than the others.
My old Empella was bombproof as above, but found it quite long in the top tube.
Currently riding a Planet X Uncle John & that has major toe overlap (51cm, I’m 5’8) so can’t wait to get something a bit longer than that.

Take it back & demand a refund or new tyres & tubes.
That seems to be what some people think is fair anyway, it HAS to be the shops fault they ride over thorns…

Should be possible, but needs a new air shaft.
Not the same as the earlier RS’s where you could add/remove spacers.

Sram’s are power locks in 10 & 11speed, they can be removed (unofficially) but you’ll need the plier type tool to do it unless you’ve got fingers of steel.
Try KMC or Wippermann

I’ll be trying it as soon as my 11sp ‘cross bike arrives any time in the next two weeks…

Have a look at the geometry of the 2015 Cube-the top tube is now longer than they were & the issue with the mech hanger now sorted on the revised version.

Cube are fantastic value kit-wise but their frames leave a lot to be desired, and that’s where you want to spend the money.

Based on what exactly? They’re extremely well made, good quality kit & incredibly reliable.
I’ll admit I used to think the same about them, until I started working on & riding them!

Nope.

No, no you shouldn’t.
They’ll let you down when you most need them or you’re the furthest point from home.
Then when you need to replace the free hub body ay £90+ you won’t be able to find one anywhere!
Best avoided IMO.

Sealskinz are waterproof-apart from the big hole they need to function as socks to enable your foot to fit-meaning water can & will run in the top.
The only other way they leak usually is if the wearer hasn’t trimmed their toe nails & it perforates the membrane.
Every single sock is tested to ensure it’s waterproof before it leaves the production line.
Still, they work very well if worn under tights.
I personally wear them with winter boots if it’s really cold, not instead of.

Pretty much the same apart from a slight variation in the cover-we have both in stock wondered the same thing.

’09 Giant Anthem Advanced.
Last of the true xc race type before they all became the Anthem X.
So quick & light, did so much on it & now kept purely to look at!

What cassette are you running? As you can get road mechs to run 32t on 10sp.
9 speed wasn’t a problem crossing road & mtg, but I never got 10 to work, so stick with a road group set until I can work out a way to get a clutch mech to work with Shimano sti’s

2013 Cube Reaction? What don’t you like about it? ( genuinely curious, as I love mine!)

On One 456.
Hateful, heavy, slow, nasty piece of scrap gas pipe.

Cheapo ‘Surface’ (Charge) for me, or Montaine featherlight thing, or my Madison Road Race jacket, depending on which is clean.
Then an Alpkit hi vis dry bag & as many lights as I can fasten to myself & the bike.

Still got it then Cozz? Thought you’d have swapped it by now 😉

I doubt it, we haven’t had any issues with anything else, just the KMC & never on the powerlink/quicklink/missing link whatever they call it-always a ‘normal’ rivet

The cheap Exposure Sirius that Rutland have at the moment, until they run out..
Mine arrived today & it’s great for the cash.