Have you got some photos of your set up with mech attached?

I personally love my little Sirius for commuting & training at night.
Lasts well, great pattern, small, plenty bright enough even if it ‘only’ has 300 lumens or so.
I live on the Shropshire/Mid Wales borders & it’s properly dark & find it more than enough-why would you need anything bigger for commuting?

No, your warranty lies with who you bought it from, not Exposure direct, they have no obligation to refund you the postage.

You might be able to change just the bearings, but there are different sizes & tapers available, depending on type originally fitted.
They should have writing on them, but that’s probably corroded to the point of not being able to read them, so take them to a decent shop & they should be able to match them up.
Or if you’re not sure, take the bike in & they’ll be able to advise once the headtube design & size has been confirmed.

They work better than the more ‘normal’ type & usually index more easily.
There are different types for Sram & Shimano (where you remove the B link) so make sure the right one has been fitted.
We’ve sold close to 400 Cubes in the last two years & never had an issue like that..

‘less than a year old’ but not by much at a guess?
They’ve simply worn out & needed replacing before now by the sounds of it.

How old is it & how much use has it had?
Think of it similar to a suspension fork-it needs servicing or it’ll go wrong.

It does say somewhere about value & levels of sold secure locks

Just read the details & make sure they’re secured with the right locks, depending on value.
I don’t know anyone who’s claimed, but know several people in the trade who I trust & they’re recommending them highly & who i’m going with for mine.

badllama:
Specliaized wheels ofte do use alloy nipples & usually do fall to bits when you try & touch them.
They also appear to often be built with spokes that are slightly too short, so the nipple isn’t properly supported & snap-sometimes meaning the only correct & safe way to repair the wheel is to either rebuild completely or replace the wheel.

This is another concern in that people often believe they understand the problem with their bikes, but when it really comes down to the underlying issues & causes they sometimes don’t.

Bikmo Plus.

I found mine small & difficult to shoulder, especially compared to my Ridley, but I suppose it’s all down to personal experiences.

They don’t make great road bikes to be honest.
I tried to use mine (which is my spare cx bike, for sale as it happens) as a winter road bike & simply didn’t like it. Offroad it’s great, but on the road not so. Geometry just doesn’t seem right, too short in the top tube for my liking for on road. Good excuse for another bike too…

Have you been to the Trailhead in Shrewsbury? They’ve built loads of Bronson’s so might be worth a shout if you’re not too far away

WTB’s haven’t been the roundest rim in the world whenever we’ve built with them, so not the easiest but pretty solid once they’re done.
Flow’s have been about as reliable as anything & even some local & rather good (world cup) DH racers have been running them.

They’re adjustable internally & an easy job-I did mine the other way as they’re a flipping long fork to start with.
The only part needed is a spring to match the travel, about £20 IIRC.

Should be on here:
http://www.xfusionshox.com/service/tech-guides.html

Anywhere I’ll take my xc bike, my cx bike can go.

There’s a PDF on the X fusion website showing how it’s done, but you’ll also need a 170 spring if they’re 160 at the moment.

Free if we’re supplying it & the forks & old one are already removed.
Otherwise depends on amount of work involved (removing forks/old headset/crownrace/facing/refitting etc.)

There isn’t any stock of 2015’s available yet.
We’re waiting for them to arrive at the moment.

It’s usually the chainring-we end up changing quite a few when the chain’s are that stretched, won’t slip, but slightly noisy & you can feel it feeding back through the pedals.

Me, but I’m a bike shop mechanic..
We have a lot come in for regular maintenance from people who will no doubt have the ability to do most things, but just don’t want to or have the time.
We also have quite a few who think they’re great home mechanics, but come in for repairs they can’t manage, but when you look at their bike’s they’re often on the edge of being dangerous with how they’ve been ‘repaired’

My XC MTB is 5mm lower than my road bikes, haven’t measured my full sus, but it’ll be very similar.

30 degree bend seems to be what a lot of professional bike fitters seem to work to.
I personally don’t feel I can comment either way as I’m not a qualified or time served bike fitter.

I’ve got them on my XC bike & love them.
They’re not stiff (deliberately) & a great shape.
I’ve got the alloy version on another bike & the difference is noticeable.

Strange, as mine are impossible to get covered through the household (£1500 limit) but realistic for all of them through Bikmo. Although I haven’t got a single bike of that value, as a collective they’re well above.

I’ve been recommended Bikmo+ by several people & when I got a quote, it was surprisingly good.
Bikes have to be secured properly, which is fair enough, but I don’t know anyone who’s had to make a claim through them yet.

Mini pump
tube
self adhesive patches
tyre levers
multi tool (with chain tool)
jacket/arm warmers
Cash
Phone
gels & bars.

All fits in my jersey pockets as I can’t stand saddle bags.

To be fair, hubs aren’t usually far off, but rims quite often can be 1-2mm different on the claimed ERD to what you actually measure.
What doesn’t help is also the differences in spoke lengths compared to claimed if you actually open a box & measure them.

Beter off doing it that way & not relying on what the manufacturers claim-they’re not always the most accurate when it comes to hub & rim measurements (although rims are worse than hubs)

Get some details around to the shops, thieves have been known to drop by with the bikes asking if they’ll buy them.
Whereabouts in the ‘Shire are you, as there seem to be loads going recently? (I work at The Trailhead)

They’re not on there & vary quite a lot depending on the model
Only takes 2 mins & more accurate to measure them yourself.

I’ve currently got four bikes running 10speed Shimano & chain wise have:
1x Wippermann Black Edi
2x Shimano SLX/105
1x Sram 1051

Only one I can genuinely tell is the Wipperman, as it’s nowhere near as smooth as the others-feels like it’s grinding away constantly even with a new groupset.
You won’t have any problems with the Sram.

Try a different discipline? MTB isn’t for everyone, try road/cx/track there’s plenty of other things to have a go at.
Don’t worry about it anyway, if you get the bug again, buy something S/H so you’re not splashing too much cash & get out with some mates for a laugh.

I’ve got a set on my CX race wheels & they’ve been fine so far.
Yes you can get them in the UK, as Extra UK are the distributor, so getting spares should be relatively straight forward.

Why indeed? But if you must, why not scratch a small line in the post, works for me on the one & only bike I let others ride!

Not quite as hilly or ‘gnar’ for me, but still a tough ride.

Your gearing might be a bit too high for off road use too.
Assuming you’re running a compact chainset? Which would most likely be 34/50. On CX bikes, something along the lines of 36/46 is more common, as trying to push a 50 off road is a nightmare!

10sp DA chains are directional-all 10sp Shimano chains are (writing only on one side)
KMC/Wippermann/Sram will all work fine so take your pick