Make sure you anti seize it when you fit it too, as otherwise they do like to hold on to the pivot axle.

15 or 20mm?
Most are available easily enough, I think we’ve got 20mm in stock at the moment but no 15’s or Boost.

We (The Trailhead, Shrewsbury) sometimes have the top cap bush in stock (not a genuine part, but one we’ve fitted for a couple of years) for £15.
Give the shop a ring to check on availability, as they’re often running low as we do a lot of Reverb servicing.

34 on a 29er Hardtail with 11-42 cassette.

Yes, easily done, I’ve done it a few times for customers over the years without any issues, but given the age of the cranks, I’d use it as an excuse to buy new ones.

Don’t put the 46 on with a double unless you want to rip your rear mech off, they can’t cope with the range.
Dropping the front to a 24 would be the easiest option IMO

very few places will stock Rev’s in 650b sizes, as it’s an odd build to me.
WHy not use Comp or is it a weight weenie thing?

stoddys – Member
Grumpy, with a sense of humor.
On my local ride he just heavy plouged right up to the edge of the hedge line. Leaving the overhang of the bushes as the path, unridable.

Shock horror-a farmer trying to do his job & earn a living..
Give them chance & most likely the path will reappear soon enough (possibly)

You can also pin on a number on a cold damp autumn or winter’s afternoon & have a right laugh with your mates in your local CX league & really use it for what it’s designed for-that’s what I’m doing with mine today anyway!

It isn’t always that seal though, we’ve seen several that have been leaking around the caliper piston seals themselves, so something to watch out for.

If you only get one set of tubs, get mud ones. The difference between them & clinchers is unreal. Mainly due to how low you can go with the pressure to find grip on off camber stuff you never thought possible! I run down to 16psi on some courses. In the dry where higher pressures are needed, the difference between them is reduced.

I’m running Dugast Rhino’s when it’s muddy, but I do think the FMB carcass is nicer to ride on, having had a set of Rhino treads on FMB’s in the past.
I’ve tried Challenge of various types & they’re ok, but nowhere near as supple as the others, but do the job when it’s drier & that matters slightly less.
Schwalbe Racing Ralphs would be great if they were slightly wider, as they’re narrow for a 32 & I’ve had puncture issues in the past.
Glue them well, try & rush it & it’ll show when one rolls-I use the standard method, but generally four layers of glue on tub & rim with 24 hours between each layer until the last one on the tub, do that & bang it on!

£240 seems expensive to me compared to what friends have paid recently (£100-150 for completely snapped seat stay)
I wouldn’t worry in the slightest about riding it once repaired, but you’d probably struggle ever selling it on, so bear in mind that with the cost of repair & paint.

It is a total swap out, as the teeth on the 12sp chainrings are a different profile.
Eagle Sram won’t honour the warranty unless it’s fitted as a complete groupset if there’s an issue, so I’d assume the same with the GX version.

It hasn’t hit the shops anywhere yet.
We’ve got it on order, complete group sets & parts (cassette’s & chains mains for those already running Eagle, but looking for cheaper replacement items)

Got to speak to the right person at last today, pretty helpful, seems to think it’s a needle bearing failure and will be replaced subject to inspection.

I can drop it into my local store too which makes life a bit easier.
There aren’t any needle bearings, or bearings of any sort in a Reverb, just bushes.
I’d say it needed a service some time ago when it first started to feel a bit sticky, but it’s a bit beyond that now.
Having said that, knowing how good Sram tech are, they’ll still probably warranty it, as they do seem to with reverbs even if it is lack of maintenance.

The Trailhead in Shrewsbury would be a good place to try for DT wheels, big fans & cracking service 01743 537124. Tell them Dave sent you.

Or if you want a clutch mech, a Tanpan will convert the cable pull so you can use a MTB mech.
Tanpan

Just please make sure it’s masked off properly before it’s blasted & coated.
I’ve just spent five hours cleaning a frame ready for a rebuild after it was power coated as it wasn’t masked.
BB chased & faced, head tube reamed & faced, bearing seats all cleaned out by hand (old full sus frame)
It’ll save a lot of hassle in the long run

£30 per wheel labour + spokes.

£25 inc spokes? How, spokes cost more than that alone?

Or stick a 46t outer ring on any Shimano chainset & a 11-32 cassette. It’d be a rare climb that really needed anything lower than 34/32 anyway.

Built two sets.
One were amazing, really nice & true, even tension, even nipple bed thickness.
The other were a PITA to build, took ages, poor quality etc & both were built within a month of each other.
Both are having a hard life & seem to to standing up well to everything that’s be thrown at them including racing UKGE type stuff.

fifeandy – Member

@goldenwonder, there’s one very good reason for wanting 1x on a road bike. If you regularly average around 16-17 mph in gently rolling terrain you end up changing up front (and twice at back) all the time, and its a royal pita!

That’s exactly what I do 99% of the time & never have an issue. 50/34 & 11-28 cassette. Never once in more miles than I care to think of have I found it lacking.
Sram did a 1x road groupset, but it never took off.
Have you tried going sun compact to see if that works for you & then still gives you the lower gears if you need them if it gets a bit steep? something like 46/30 & a 11-32 cassette? Easy to do then too.

No, Shimano & Sram are different pull ratio’s, so the mech won’t work with the shifter.
Why not Sram Force 1 is about the best solution for a 1x CX set up.
Personally I don’t get it unless it’s for racing (but then you wouldn’t run 11-42)
Why not just stick with 2x & have the range?

Shame with the fact that it’s an electronic groupset it can’t just be programmed to be 10 or 11sp…

It can with the e-tube software. Quite common to make 10sp work on 11, so no reason it can’t work the other way.

We’ve had the bolt removed (it’s not the first to have sheared if it’s been ridden lose) by a local engineering com nay if it’s stuck-cost us £10 & taken a few minutes, so we let them do it, we pay for it & get the customer back on the bike asap. Later versions don’t seem to suffer as the design has been revised-we haven’t had one do it in the last 18 months or so.

Never had an issue, generally sorted very quickly & without any fuss.
As above, usually a few photos & an email sorts it out, Cube collecting it is a new one on me..

We’ve had them in already, a bit chunky, but the position is perfect.

Yes, all recent Santa Cruz are 22×8 at both ends of the shock. Bronson V1&1, Tallboy 2&3, Hightower, Nomad etc.

What is there to bump for? Your answer is in the posts above!

Measurements are different between boost & non boost hubs, so will need new spokes to do it properly.
Although no doubt someone will soon be along to say it’s fine-all depends if you want it right or not.

Mine that are in the classifieds at the moment..?
XT 11speed, have done about 30 miles before i upgraded.

jruk – Member
Cool, thanks. I’ve done some more digging and that’s suggested 6902 as well so will order some and see what happens. I’ve heard back from DT and they’ve said I should replace the entire freehub rather than change the bearings. Bonkers.

That is bonkers, the bearings can sometimes try & go back in on a funny angle, even with the correct bearing press, so just something to be aware of & stop, remove the bearing, clean up the burr it creates & try again if that does happen.

Am I the only person who doesn’t like synchro shift?
I had it on my new XC race bike & found it just too slow to swap between the front rings when you need it to, so got rid of it.
At trail centres it’s amazing, but on more natural trails, I found it can’t react quick enough, even on the quickest set up.

Townbrook is good fun, but definitely one to avoid at the weekends, never mind a Bank Holiday, the local press & rangers have been on it recently nabbing riders, it’s best to just avoid it-there’s platy of others to go at.
Eastridge is awesome & running really well if you want some steeper stuff, just open your eyes to trails & don’t’ ‘just’ follow the marked route.

Knock the outer bearing out, remove the sleeve in the middle, then you can check for a circlip on the inner bearing or not (some do, some don’t)
Bearings are usually 6902, but depends on the freehub, as the XD drive often has a smaller outer bearing.
I can’t remember exactly off the top of my head (I should do, I’ve got two sets myself!) but they’re not rocket science & if in doubt, just get the bearings out & measure them.

Do like thw black yellow colour scheme of thw 5010 more than any though haha which counts for 90% right?!

Damn right!
It’s always a lot of money we spend on bikes, so liking how it looks is a massive part of it!

Oscillate Wildly – Member
goldenwonder – Member
You know where there’s a Large Bronson Demo if you want to try one Oscillate Wildly
I rode a Bronson & 5010 back to back on Sunday on our demo day, Bronson was awesome, but the 5010 more me, horses for courses.
that you dave? haha! I’m in process of sorting with SP, I’m totally torn between the two, you know me, sod test ride just go in all guns blazing

going to have a x2 on the back regardless of which one I think, I just need sort out my rear wheel as its non boost, ive asked SP for a price to rebuild mine with a boost hub and new spokes as gotta factor in that in the cost too
Yep, it’s me-if I were you I’d probably go Bronson, better at pedalling, but still man enough for when you have a big day. My slight concern is that although the 5010 is incredible & where my own money would be spent (if I had any) you might run out of travel at times.
For me in Shropshire/Mid Wales etc the 5010 is perfect.

You know where there’s a Large Bronson Demo if you want to try one Oscillate Wildly 😉
I rode a Bronson & 5010 back to back on Sunday on our demo day, Bronson was awesome, but the 5010 more me, horses for courses.

740 for me, but I don’t just race on it, I use it for everything.
FWIW I’m 5’8, 65kg, riding a 29er hardtail