yo, trail-rat

how do you service your alfine?

Me too.

‘Pig:

Chain, Chainset, BB, Bleed brake, Full fork home service, Cassette and roast brake pads in gas cooker to remove oil. Tyres too. Seat.

Yesterday: Seatclamp [broke on the way home, boo.

Thorn
Chain, Gearcables, Chinring, Rohloff Sprocket, Rohloff Oilchange, grips, seat. Front hub internals and grease. CKing service [at home].

Centrum

>8speed [Alfine/spokes/rim], shifter, Chain, rebuild front hub, Headset rebuild, dropout…

Maybe I should have done these jobs in the last few months!

I’d say make one, sounds like fun. I’d guess your issue is making it

Small
Loud
Not gonna go off everytime locks their bike to you
Not easy to disable

More power to your elbow.

Are you making a remote?

Maybe it says something about my riding style, but I use the lockout on my Pikes all the time, usually if climbing up anything for a minute or more, and I’m more likely to use them when I stand up. Same with the old Recons, Toras and Blacks before them…

In Wales, for example I was fiddling with Lockout and U-Turn all the time [well usually when we were stopped and having ‘refreshment’].

The exception seems to be when climbing up extremely steep slopes: with the travel adjust all the way down I leave them open to keep the front wheel from throwing me up/back. This is always in the granny with the seat up high.

I DO ride 2 rigid bikes a lot though – so I feel and resent the loss of power.

Having said that I am loving the feel of working suspension again since I serviced the Pikes!

So, how does riding down Snowdon’s Railway in gales and fog then hammering it down Llanberris compare?

Oh. My. Eyes!

ROFLMAO.

Oh I only hope they got it.

“Out of the gate”

fnar fnar

I will tell you what they say…

That’s amazing.

If you’re having that problem with the body load I suggest switching to a lower caffeine content coffee. It always causes that problem for me!

I’ll get my coat…

:arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow:

Yeah, OK so I’ve been pretty busy, but a few weeks after, and with a new spring also sourced I did the service.

I used 7.5wt damper oil, and 15-40 semi synthetic for the lowers.

There was one seal left, it came in a seperate packet from LoCo with the one for the top of the floodgate adjust and was 10-12mm and 3mm thick – if anyone knows where it was supposed to go, please tell me.

The full rebuild from LoCo was cheap and of good quality – I would recommend their services to anyone.

Just need to take it out :)

On the ‘Pig, 30/35 F/R, maybe -5 if I’m feeling skilled. Usually 2.3/2.1 tyres.

Well I don’t know about that, but I do love a good sprint down a closed lane/road. Especially if there’s queuing traffic next to you! :twisted:

I think it is, but you’d still need to be riding on the road!

I think an impact that pushed the forks backward hard enough to snap, would exert a collapsing force around the frame, through the downtube and stays.

Regarding rights and wrongs, I’d suggest you explore the warranty option first. I doubt it’ll take the manuf. long to come back to you with a decision.

I read short book riding to work once…

(In Cornwall)

Spell watted!

Mine’s the non brake version, but I think that’ll fit.

OK, that’s the way to do it.

Thanks again.

Oh bother. HB-M775.

Oh man,THOSE brakes. They were my first purchased upgrade, fitted to a Raleigh. They were so fiddly to adjust, you needed 3 hands.

I think they were why I got into working on bikes.

Headtube may not enjoy suspension – it places more strain using forks that telescope. Was that frame available with bounce fitted?

Yep, Marmot’s good value stuff.

itchyfeet.com – I worked for them
Ah! A Bath person, or an ex-Bath person?

London shop, just for a few months, until the landlords changed and the rent went through the roof. Crying shame.

Gotta love that Bell, as ever.

I’ve just bought a cheap phone, in red. Does that count?

Have the R4 commentary on – I wonder what will transpire. My dad’s a pretty committed socialist, and from N Yorks too. He’s gutted about being stabbed in the back by Clegg [previously possibly electable option]- he’s gone Green since.

I was raised to understand Thatcher was pretty damn awful – driving a steak into the heart of the working class. I haven’t spoken to him in the last few days, I’ll give him a call tonight and see what his take is. I’d think he’d have some interesting points, I’ll try to post them.

Patagonia stuff is amazing quality, other options are available.

I suggest buying ANYTHING from itchyfeet.com – I worked for them, lovely people, really know their stuff.

I’ve said before and I’ll say again

http://www.collingwoodlighting.co.uk/cnb/shop/collingwood

Are very nice quality.

Footflaps is correct, though 44 is warm for the heatsink IF the heatsink to junction thermal connection is poor. I’d test one out of the fitting, hanging by the wire below.

If it’s h/s is at 20C then there is a significant difference and that may be the culprit. The advantage here is that all this is free to test.

Can you not improve the airflow? is there a hole above the light units to let the warm air escape?

LED bulbs of 3-6W in fittings designed for 50W halogen bulbs don’t get hot.

Dunno – try it!

I’d bet it’s temperature. How hot is the heatsink when they’ve been running for an evening? The max temp for the LED chip is arounf 100Deg C, so if the heatsink is too hot to keep your fingers on, and it’s a cheap design with poor connection from the LED to the heatsink , that would likely be the answer.

Can you not leave one running hanging out of the ceiling? If it’s much cooler like that, with space around it, then that might tell you there’s not enough airflow. Lastly, you do have the heatsink aligned so the fins are upright don’t you?

It is pretty funny (entropy, lol)

Twingos of several types are known to have this issue, if you want to buy one (and I do really like it) you’d better find that fuse and paint it white.

Back on track, today I will be upgrading the Centrum to 8-speed.

Laters, taters.

Problem fixed by taking out a fuse for 10-15 minutes.

The problem was referenced in this thread on twingo133.net

http://www.twingo133.net/post138819.html

For reference, if you can’t see the picture of the fuse box, the fuse is a 5 Amp and it’s location is: From the top RIGHT corner of the fuses, you look LEFT one and DOWN one to find the 5A. We left ours out for 10-15 Minutes.

We’ll paint the fuse with a white spot to see can see it in the future.

Fuse is much easier than the battery at the side of the road!

Thanks for the help though!

Good call grtdkad – didn’t realise they only did a 1/2/ day Sat

Phoned them, it’s got a year’s warranty from them still covering it. They suggested to d/c the earth lead for 10 mins 1st.

grtdkad – the bump was tiny, but you could be right. There’s no start button, just a key. Will keep this updated.

Suggestions from Twingo133.net are to pull a fuse related to the immobiliser, so worth a try here I think. Plan b is to disconnect the battery [but I’d better find the radio code first]

I have the LG IPS 234, [slightly older than the above] good viewing angles and clear

I also have 2x iiyama 24″ LCD monitors, nice quality though not cheap. Fantastic warranty – I damaged 2 by placing them near speakers [didn’t realise it was a problem with flat panels, it is due to the electronics, if not the tube]

Dell consistently gets value for money awards, especially when they’re on deal.

If you write or read a lot consider a 1200*1900 resoloution, this HD 1900*1080 is not actually a good res for computers, you really need more vertical space. It’s just common because the manufacturers can simply bang-out HDTV style screens using their existing tooling.

Lastly, consider the people that mined the minerals to make the device.

It’s a little understood fact that a very large percentage of tech devices are made from minerals dug out of the ground in the DRC in millitia-controlled mines. The war there is now more profitable than peace, mostly because companies like Samsung, Sony etc continue to trade with the smelters of these minerals without having created an assured supply of the minerals free of ‘blood’ [think blood diamonds].

for more information

http://www.enoughproject.org/publications/taking-conflict-out-consumer-gadgets-company-rankings-conflict-minerals-2012

and

https://sites.google.com/site/scantargument/blogs-1/contributing-to-war-mobile-phones-and-the-democratic-republic-of-the-congo

^^^^^ I disagree – most clients have no idea what thy’re doing and it’s the designer’s job to take the brief and create something awesome, regardless of how incoherent the brief. It is, however bloody hard if they are utterly uncooperative/unsupportive [design intern here in this situation!].

Still, I’m having a good day, sorta.

USB A-type ports. Impossible to tell which way it fits in until you try.

OK – well as I was saying, in a pinch they can be used as a guide.

“Gofasterstripes? Not sure what mean? ” – now I really am confused. Can you rephrase this?

Does it make more sense now?

Amusingly, I don’t understand what you mean in your above post!

Shindiggy – using a mech as a guide, you might find a little rub unavoidable as it is designed to touch the chain from the sides when you shift at the front.

Having said that, look into the mounting height of the mech on the seat tube, and the shape of the shift plates.

Some mech’s edges are widely spaced in some places. I think I have had success with Deore front ones and VERY cheap [like Halfords bike] quality all-steel Shimano ones too.

I’m sure a chain guide is better, but you might already have a mech spare so it’s worth having a go to see if it works!

EDITED – for clarity

Deore mech with a very long lower limit screw wound in all the way?