Deffo solder it. Small signal level, big effect.

Well done mate. I wish many happy miles to you both!

When new, Magura rotors are [IIRC] 2mm thick. I think that might be .2mm thicker than Shimano. In theory you may encounter slight problems.

But I doubt it.

On the Alfine, I am using the Nexus 8-speed gripshift, as I understand the trigger shifter is limited to single shifts.

The Grip Shift on a Rohloff is a bit industrial, but it’s made from Aluminum, Nylon and Steel with a thick bonded Rubber grip and so-far has proved in my case extremely hard wearing [4 years, maybe 50% worn]

According to my copy of the Bodyspace textbook [Ergonomics and such], three sided grips provides more purchase than round ones, and the diameter is 38mm which should provide approx 70% of peak torque about the axis of rotation [Max @ approx 70mm which is a bit big for a bike gripshifter].

While it is rather heavy and rough looking I find it delivers a nice mixture of fast block shifts with the thumb and finger grip and single fingertip and thumb shifts when cruising.

Lastly, having just serviced mine, I can say that a smear of teflon-grease on the mated surfaces and new inners and outers really makes a difference. I use a tiny wipe of Lumpys Crack Wax on the gear inners too, and then thread them into spiral-wound lined brake outer.

Hmm. If it’s anything like the link on my old Idrive Comp, I’d be careful, it had some sort of teflon covered gauze in there which got damaged when I tried to remove it….

http://www.itchyfeet.com/locations/bath

I have worked for them in the past [When they had a London shop]. Know almost everything you could possibly want.

Give them a call, or drop in. They WILL help.

I used the 3-speed Nexus on this bike

for years [just upgraded to an Alfine 8]. You need to be aware the range is extremely limited, quite a lot less than the 8 speed, or the 11 or a Rohloff for that matter. Having said that, it took me many many miles, and was ridden from London to Cornwall with me for some reason carrying the groups water on may backpack? Shifts are good.

The reason it’s not on here anymore is the sealing is pants, and by the end it was a mess of rust, water and bits of metal!

Also – Disc specific versions are rare as hen’s teeth [AFAIK].

Alfine 8 is great improvement.

Au contraire – you surely should ask ;) I bet it’s worth it, the reply email has surely got to be a laugh!

NXT Panels, bro…

I’m surprised – don’t you think there are uses for magnets arranged as to attract but not stick together?

Well, I thought it has potential anyway, and it’s pretty neat.

Enjoy Monday, people!

GPS is not as good at determining height* as it is at determining position around the Earth’s surface. I don’t know if the Garmin in question ONLY uses it’s altimeter, but this may a factor. Having said that, that there is a fairly hefty difference in those figures which this may not entirely explain!

*GPS uses triangulation, and while the sats are spaced out well, the “Height” of the triangle they are mapping changes by VERY small margins when you climb a hill or two.

Looks like some fairly hefty corrosion.

I just yesterday put my tourer’s wheels in the shower for 5 minutes to remove any winter road salt to avoid this sort of thing!

If the drilling caused this, then how do the manufacturer’s do it differently for the spoke-‘oles to avoid the problem?

I have used two of these, one after the other. Lasted a couple of years each.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bic-Xpen-Chrome-Fountain-Pen/dp/B002GJJ22U/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1368398995&sr=8-6&keywords=bic+fountain+pen

Lovely, but light. Can’t argue with the price though :)

This is a bit leftfield, but how about a Samsung Chromebook and a holiday? Save £600 plus!

If it’s for the web, and casual document use, they will perform very similarly and the Chromebook is the most secure platform you can buy right now.

Battery life is 6-8 hours.

They even look much the same. I’d say you should try one at least.

trevron73 – Member
Got some Magura HS33 on my beast of the east they are very good till the rain ,they are stealth black though not Lairy green ? They were the mutts nuts in ’97

You mean “Race Line Yellow” :)

konabunny – Member
the treble seems a little prominent now, clearer, with better imaging

synthesia?

Not since I ate 24 grams of fresh psilocybin cubensis in ’02! Gosh that took a while to wear off….

I have a pair of M970s with matching levers on the Thorn. I use Swisstop Blue cartridge pads and Rigida Andra 30 Carbide-coated rims.

Love them. In the dry I could do a front flip on a fully loaded tourer on the flat.

In the wet you’d better start breaking 3 seconds early, ‘cos nothing happens ’till the rim is swept dry!

I was thinking about chopping 1/4 of the blue pads off and slipping a piece of soft compound rubber ones in there.

HS33s are similar, but a little more vulnerable. They require less maintenance- cables are still gonna get full of smegs every few months.

Check out the Cambridge Audio “Minx” range.

http://www.cambridgeaudio.com/pages/minx-speaker-systems

http://forums.linn.co.uk/bb/showthread.php?tid=2887

Worth a read for the input from the Linn staff.

chiefgrooveguru – that gear looks mint. I think I trust you! Where did you learn the technical stuff to design speakers from the ground up?

Dartmoor – hmmmm, will “pitch” it to my partner.

I’d be nearly home – I’m from Truro-way!

My main source of info here is this:

http://www.halfgaar.net/bi-amping-acoustic-energy-120
– the 120 is a 109 with another network, another driver a little more MDF.

Also emails with Cambridge Audio – I am OK’d to use the 6.1 direct inputs in this fashion – I loose all tone/timing controls, but the volume still works. Switching inputs requires re-plugging the cables into the TT.

iffoverload – RE input impedance – tried the y cable with one source channel into 2 stereo inputs speakers still singlewired – sounded the same so I figured it was not an issue. I did worry the amp would explode, but it didn’t. Phew. You’re right about drivers not being resistance only – I am wondering if the driven load would be “easier” with a constant component [fixed resistor in parallel to passive x-over and driver]

Perhaps the speakers are not actually designed for bi-amping – only bi-wiring. AE never answer emails, so I am on my own here!

chiefgrooveguru – I am not after headroom [the CA is plenty loud] – I am looking for a little more refinement. bi-amped it’s more detailed, but the treble balance is a bit peaky. It may well be the load characteristics.

RE baffle step – is that important in a speaker with a flat front baffle? Notches – yes I can see the issue.

Looking at the x-over scematic for the 120 we “start” with a cap – doesn’t this mean the impedance rises below a certain frequency? I guess this may confuse the amp’s damping? Hence the resistor idea….

finishthat – as I just said above, I am just using the CA as “6-amps-in-a-box-with-a-volume-control” – I don’t need a mode setting, just select direct inputs.

Here’s an idea – can I use the existing crossover at line-level? I’d be inclined to think not, but only because no-one else does in these hacks! Can I not just copy the circuit with components designed for lower power levels?

cynic-al – Yes I guess I will be doing that, but I am afraid to go below 4 Ohms on the treble amps.

all – How close can I get to finding the MINIMUM value for impedance presented if I measure DC resistance across the driver? I want to calc the Min. value I can use in parallel without dropping below 4 Ohm load.

I am intending to work designing Hi-Fi some day, so feel free to get as tech as you like, I can just read-up on the bits I don’t get yet.

Thanks for the input guys – this is fun!

scaredy – no, silly, I would not want that as then I can’t see and that would inhibit my riding.

Having said that, I would like some peril-sensitive sunglasses.

I did once ride down Oxford street with my eyes shut for 10 seconds, but I was a sh*t courier having a sh*t day and that was in 2008 which was not my best year. Aaaanyway

Double post?!

Seals?

No, really, this is all great stuff, but what’s with the nuddy beaches? Did I tell you lot about that trip on a Wharram cat in Greece by mistake….?

Hmmmmm.

Non-nuddy beaches also accepted, perhaps preferred.

Ta!

I am lucky: In the Azur are 6 identical amps sharing a volume control. It does already work – but I’m a little taken aback by the “extra” treble.

To eliminate one factor, I used 2 of the 4 [!] previously unused channels for the bass, and kept the tweeters on the same amp channels as previously.

Still sounds odd, ish…

Thanks Onza – I will give you a shout if I feel sufficiently flush!

GfS

This is all great – keep ’em coming if you have ’em!

Sam

Thank you very much!

both GfS’s

Oh wow – so where is it?

GfS

We’re thinking south-coast of England?

Can you tell us a bit more about the site in Norfolk, Tom B?

Thanks for the replies :-)

the better-half of GfS..

^^^ Top tip? Move location, it would seem! :)

I am in a club, but I am not allowed to talk about it….

Is there some etiquette things here? Anyone want to give me a price for these bits – ?

20% Less than your hopes,
100% less than your dreams.

Onzadog, with postage they’re prolly too much for me, but hit me with the prices anyway.

Cheers

How much for said rings, guys? And in what condition?

opened, looked in, looks fine, closed it.

LOL

Also – different username?!

Magura 6.1 pads seem to be pretty resilient.

Having bled my brake I was a little ham-fisted and splashed oil from the top syringe around, some got onto the pads.

Rotor was washed in HOT water and washing-up liquid, scrubbed with a brush to get inside all the cutouts etc.

Pads – I heated [with a wire through the retaining hole]them in a gas-ring flame until they were about 100C [spit test] and then heated them for about as long again . Quite a lot of smoke came off. I repeated this twice, allowing them to cool in between.

When they were cool I washed them in running water and rubbed the friction material of them together quite hard to remove any surface glaze.

I cleaned the inside of the caliper with cotton-buds and a little nail-polish remover.

I tested after in free space in case the pad was about to disintegrate. They way I see it you are supposed to buy new pads, I was resigned to doing-so, so I though I have nothing to loose.

The result was a success – braking restored. It may not work with DOT fluid, or with fancy Teflon fluid spills, but plain oil seems to come out.

I have also heard it suggested that boiling them in very detergent-y water for hours?days? might work.

Good luck.