Not on trend though is it, minty?

I don’t know which ones they are, sorry. I use SRAM 50/50 and circlip QL’s and never thrown one away. Is this a 10/11 speed thing?

If your chain is pretty clean and only has a little lube left, a standard snap-link should open up easily :)

http://www.katiepuckriksmells.com

When I worked in cycle retail, I always told people to check the ouput of the LED lights at the end of the journey, as batteries that are very low will usually power the light at full brightness for a couple of minutes, before reverting to being really dim.

Mainly my comment is that a great many people use LED lights with very low batteries, or aimed badly, rendering them nearly useless.

Another odd trend I notice in the Netherlands is people using cheap button cell lights until the battery is flat, then just buying another and hanging it next to the first! What a waste of resources!

Voodoophone. Sticking pins in users since the year dot.

BAAAAAAAAAAAAMP :) This is superb:

This is fun :) Good to see more results and mixes.

I just used a huge white pure wax candle, some high PTFE grease and 15wt oil. The Lumpy’s grease is discontinued, but just go hunting for the highest purity PTFE grease you can find on ebay….. or use basic PTFE grease, though you’ll likely need to swap that for some oil and use a bit more of it.

I would say it’s a bit of work, making your own mix and getting it right. At this point I just break the snap link, warm the wax for 5 mins, pop the chains in, agitate for a minute when it’s all melted then slowly lift out and drip the excess off, let it cool and refit. the magnet is on a clothes peg and a stick, and I suggest a non-magnetic pan to make that bit easier.

If the stuff lasts a couple of rides, then we’re down to maybe 5 minutes cleaning time per ride, or less if you do two chains at once.

Very gently, on the gas ring. I probably should buy a charity shop pan.

All I can say is I’m running a PC1, Surley SS ring and a standard SS Rohloff sprocket and they were wearing extremely fast with Rohloff/other oil, and always the chain was slowly scaling up with black gritty crud, hence the DIY wax. I’ve always been a fan, it’s just the stuff usually washes off ASAP.

Now, I’m sure that a complete investigation, test rides and measuring would be interesting and probably allow a mix that out performs this, however I’m confident enough it’s better than the previous situation, even if only because it’s still there and still clean. Previously either I was running my chain very dry or letting the oil build up.

Oh, and I think the cost is like $5 half-litre meaning you can dip the chain all the time. I would imagine that a chain that is always coated in clean lube is going to last longer than one coated in posh lube that is 50% grit by weight.

Cotton wool soaked in nitric acid.

Stand well back* and throw a match** at it.

*down the street
**you ain’t seen me, right?

EDIT – I misread as “LARGE scale removal”

B_U_M_P

keep the hoses – throw the brakes

Thorn will likely have the owner’s phone number.

I’m sounding a little like a stuck record with this, but if your mobile is also due an upgrade, have you considered a Huawei P9? The second, B+W specific camera is excellent in low light. I have been able to capture images with it which are as sharp as a colour photo in the daylight.

The automatic exposures are really nice, with the Leice software doing all the calcs to give you a great picture most of the time. There is also a full manual mode, exposures of up to 30 seconds are possible as well as ISO from 50 to 3200, and Shutter from 1/4000 to 30seconds. There is also DNG/RAW output and the aforemantioned pair of separate cameras.

Here’s a few examples, not the very best that is possible, but just to show you. All have been downsized and resaved, so there’s extra jpeg compression in there.

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30 seconds, just rested the phone facing up. The case settled, hence the star trails.

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Can also do fake bokeh using the depth map from the cameras.

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Both indoors in very dim room. Hand held.

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Took this after the sun had set, really dark. Hardly broke my stride, still sharp.

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This is actually taken with a Moto G v1, which has a notoriously poor camera. Just to show that fiddling with the settings can get you a fair way with even a crap camera.

Moonlight? It was only released in the UK a couple of weeks back I think. Why is that important?

As mentioned above, the best brake cleaner/bedder-in by a mile is water with fine mud in it. You don’t even need to use a lot, it’s just a grinding paste.

If your pads are oily, just throw them away and replace, they’ll never be as good again. You can roast them in the oven etc, but it’s just a better idea to replace them, clean the rotor with alcohol, apply a little muddy water and go use them.

IFAIK brake cleaner always b0rks bicycle disc brakes, I have never had a decent experience using it.

[/url]
Arrrgghh My Fly [can’t get out]

The Psion returns! Meet Gemini, the 21st century pocket computer

OK you got your wish.

Maybe you should get something with wireless charging….

Another happy P9 user…. P10 launches very soon.

I actually recovered a stolen Thorn a while back. Because they’re all customised, Thorn will have the owners contact details. Note the frame number, probably under the BB, and call SJS Cycles up with it. They’ll contact the owner :)

Test it with the diode test function.

Probably not, but fine ones are expensive and don’t like water.

For the oil, try covering it with soda crystals after removing the excess. Then scrub and wash off.

Pik N Mix tried to microwave his marge….

Today I just took a really challenging job. Best not screw-up.

My suggestion:

Large [pristine] sink of lukewarm water with a drop or two or Fairy.

Soak for a half a minute, then use a wide but fine/taper tipped synthetic paintbrush*, with another single drop of fairy and wiping in circular motions [bristles follow groove] and a single pass of forward-backward strokes… Imagine you were trying to sweep the dirt out, but with the wet bristles.

After each side is gently scrubbed, use another identical brush and cool running water to lift all the residue out of the grooves.

Shake the droplets off when you finish, then gently press the record once against a clean towel to remove the rest and prevent water marks.

Stand in a line to dry [draining board rack works].

Records that have been cleaned like that usually sound enormously better, and after that just a gentle brushing/lifting action on a dry LP with a carbon** brush will suffice until you get grease on the surface.

I don’t believe you need any solvents unless you water is 99% chalk, or if there’s glue/etc on the playing surface.

In theory you shouldn’t submerge the labels, but I have not noticed any lasting damage on my mainstream pressings.

Alternatives options:

– Really.

————————————————————————-

*

**

https://www.theregister.co.uk/2017/02/24/revive_the_psion_5_series/

Psion 5 you say?

http://www.sandervalk.design

Would be remiss of me not to :)

I just want to add, that I have nothing to add.

It seems appropriate.

I really wanted to like this thread but ultimately found it extremely predictable. I could tell what the outcome would be be before I read it.

Needs more explosions and a plot twist, deeply boring, sad.

I’m sure you should ask Rohloff for advice.

Sorry, didn’t see that (breakage point) Would be the angle then, I think that’s where the problem usually occurs. What rim is it? Maybe you should check with Rohloff/specs for the best rim?

Also, MTB+tandem+trailer is nonetheless brutal! Surely you need whatever spokes are the strongest, DB may not be weaker while still being light, but others might be stronger still? Downhill/tandem oriented?

Rohloff’s have a huge flange {fnarr fnarr}.

My 32 spoke Rohloff wheel has not broken in 6 odd years of touring and load carrying, infact IIRC the official Rohloff tandem build is still 32 spokes. The flange leads to differing spoke angle at the rim, so that could be a weak point in many cases. SJS/Thorn use specifically drilled Ridiga Andrea 30s with a hole pattern designed to suit the Rohloff. I wonder in your case if the spoke angle is causing some rubbing or kinking where the spokes cross.

Summit’s up.

I think SJS build the Thorn rims with Linseed oil as a lube, it’s certainly sticky stuff. They don’t use washers and I don’t even think the Andrea is eyeletted.

DB spokes should be a strong as plain gauge, however the drawing process will work-harden the spoke in the centre, this also makes me think there is fatigue possible.

>Why not close this thread, there’s nothing but disrespect and arguing…. again.

Naaah, there’s also ***** and **** with a splash of *************** for good measure.

>Taking a break to get feeling back in my hands

Dfrn’t strokes for dfrn’t folks.

Update – came back the right size, smelling slightly of (eeerm) man-mayo* and with the nasty chocolaty stain** transformed into…. a large powdery white stain. Then MissStripes ripped the other flimsy bit while fitting it.

Maybe I should just put the beer on the table next time.

*it did not before, I assume it’s the solvent and will dissipate?!
**wuzzunt me

I have had this when wrapping a cable around a cammed mech the wrong way.

Check the fitting instructions for the EXACT model of mech you have.