Yep – that’s option 2 above! Buy and fit this: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/direct-mount-chainrings/products/aero-direct-mount-chainring-for-sram-8-bolt-gravel-road-cranks?variant=40430229979171

I am actually tempted to just flog the chainset and get one of the zillion second hand ultegra cranks arms being sold at the minute due to unwanted recall replacements then just stick a wolf tooth on that. Added bonus is I don’t need to faff with trying to remove and replace existing Shimano PF BB for a DUB one.   Good to know though that 11spd chain will work ok tho so do have options

Got a SRAM Red AXS power meter for £200 (cheaper than replacing rings on my current one!). There’s dual sided ultrgra PMs for £199 too…

Really interesting reading all this as I’ve got a 2000km ultra in 10 weeks time (eek). Thankfully all road and relatively flat, but then that means it attracts a fair whack of the proper fast folk.  The last winning time was under 4 days (3 days, 14hrs), with the winner only sleeping for 3hrs once, although having admitted he reckon he can do it a lot faster if he had planned a bit more (he’s doing it again too!).    It’s just on the cusp of wondering if anyone will attempt to ride it without ANY sleep if that can be reduced down towards 3-3.5days riding.

I’m unsure yet on approach, it starts at 8am annoyingly, which means if you are hotelling-it,you either ride 12-16hrs, 36-40hrs, or 55hrs before getting a room (if you can’t realistically check in till 3pm). My strategy is probably in the middle of those options  : riding all day, all night, all day, then sleep, then repeat.  On the plus side it’s in a very well populated country (Netherlands!), so lowish risk of getting stuck in the middle of nowhere or caught out with accommodation, so bit more relaxed in strategy, and can just semi-wing-it depending on how I feel.

RE: Zone 2 in Zwift.  I tend to do three things:

• For 90mins Z2 sessions, I try to find a high-end group C ride(2.8-3.2wkg), either 90mins or 60(plus 30 extra at end), then ride in the bunch.  Favorites are the 12.05 DIRT 90min rides.
• For 3hr Z2 sessions, either try to find a B-group 100KM ride (and top it up), or join Yumi (2.9wkg) for the time. There’s a decent 100km 3R steady state ride (B or C) at 1745 on Wednesdays.
• For 8-10hr Z2 sessions, I tend to start with a morning 100-160KM C ride (2.5-4.5hrs), then when that’s finished join Yumi for the remainder. For those I usually have 2 or 3 coffee stops for toilet, and then 15mins proper stop for lunch and a coffee. Decent rides are all around 7am on a Saturday (Evo being the best bunch out of those ones).

Key things for me are: don’t do completely flat routes, even something like waistband is better than the tempus fugit. You need to the small rises and changes in gradient to help you move around the bike and adjust cadence etc.   I also hardly do ERG for the same reason, as definitely prefer the small changes in power and cadence to keep feeling comfortable on the bike.

Hey folks, thought this might be interesting – my goals are much earlier this year than the last few, with an ultra race in April, so decided to do primarily dedicated zone 2 blocks since November.

Total of 18-20hrs per week, with either 3 or 4 “on” weeks in the block depending on timing (i.e I wanted xmas as a rest week, and need to push current block to 4 weeks, so I can get a rest week before a trip to Lanzarote!).  Mid-week usually consisted of Mon-Thur 3hrs per day (most of the time split into 2x90mins), with a big ride on Saturdays (either outside, or 8-10hrs on turbo in z2).

Here’s a graph showing the increase in power for any given Z2 HR(or conversely, lower HR for same power) comparing the last 3 months with ALL of the preceding year.  It’s around 20-40w increase across zone 2, depending on higher/lower bounds (at around 81-83kg).

(sorry, snipped the Y axis : it’s % of max hr)

Another long term customer.  Brilliant service, great company.  Only downside is I’m stuck on FTTC because I got a “price for life” guarantee, so if I move to FTTP, the contract re-starts and I only get a “price for the contract” guarantee instead.  Me just being tight though!

I wouldn’t bother with a set of Force shifters unless they are super-cheap; Rival is practically the same weight (20grams difference but that’s for shifters AND calipers, so shifter difference is negligible..).

Cheers Barney – yeah I’m starting to think maybe SQLabs saddles are better at sorting perineum issues that I’ve never had a problem with.   Have experimented with a few different chamois and creams, but you are probably right – it’s just time in saddle leads to bruising, especially as you get more tired leading to less power outputted causing your legs take less of the weight so you aren’t “hovering” as much above the saddle any more.

For existing SQ users – any tips on getting the position correct?   I do a fair lot of ultra-distance riding, and usually start to get sore bruised cheeks after 15+ hours in the saddle. After trying unsuccessfully a few of the Specialized 3d printed saddles, a friend recommended an SQ Lab saddle but struggled on a couple of rides with comfort and position, causing issues elsewhere with pressure/rubbing etc.  Into winter now, so bit harder to do long testing when it takes >8hrs for symptoms to start too!

Good news batteries are available now, they weren’t in April when I got the light.

(I ended up with an Exposure)

I had one and returned it (after also having 1600lumen previous model). The quarter turn mount is not strong enough, so the light fell off a few times, especially if upside down on a go pro mount. Also it was impossible to buy the correct batteries for it. Halfords didn’t sell them and you literally couldn’t get them anywhere; I can’t remember exact problem but something about +ve/-ve positions.

Anyone know if a cervelo aspero can take a 2x standard rival dub (double) chainset?  Looking at getting one, but probably want to convert to to 2x as I have a spare rival power crankset and do a fair whack of road stuff too, so 40/10 is a bit too easy (and soon will have some spare bits of rival axs)..

Guess there’s two questions there: Anyone know if the aspero takes a “wide” crankset or normal? And then if it’s normal, will it fit a 48/35 chainset?   Quite niche questions, but a total pain to figure out googling!  I see you can get a 2xGRX aspero, so it must be able to take a double, just not sure sram 48/35..

I have the same setup (well, a 1030 plus Strada mk11) and when not using the 76 projects mount on my clip on bars, the below does me fine. No movement, solid as a rock, and relatively cheap!

• Mount : https://www.wiggle.com/p/prime-race-computer-mount. (make sure you get the large mount for the Garmin).
• GoPro adaptor: https://www.wiggle.com/p/prime-computer-mount-gopro-interface for the light
• Light GoPro adaptor: https://www.exposure-use.com/Brands/Exposure-Lights/Products/Bike/Brackets-and-Mounts/3-Prong-Action-Camera-mount-to-Exposure-Cleat-EXPQRARMACTION2

Can take a photo if useful. The reason the prong adaptor is worthwhile over replacing the cleat is that it gives the light a bit more space to angle itself. The Strada is pretty bulky and you might have space issues connecting directly via cleat removal.

Given how incremental the updates have been between Venu 1,2 and 2+, I’d probably not wait.  Normally is just better battery life and a few rando sports added that you’ll never use, or making calls via the watch if that’s important.

Only thing they might include in the Venu 3 is training status, VO2 etc, which has only really been added to the more sport-orientated watches, rather than health-orientated like the Venu.

Tiso/Alpine Bikes is a good bet. Their Perth store has a big Patagonia section..and bikes. Doesn’t look like much separation either as everything goes through same till system.

https://www.tiso.com/alpine/cycle-to-work

cheers folks, turns out the Mk10 to Mk11 increased battery size, and the SB has a bigger battery than the RS, so Mk11 SB it is! Once i can find cheap stock….

Thanks both…I feel like a bit of an idiot now, having not thought about doing it that way around :-D . Will give that a bash!

It’s been trimmed down now at least, but my walls now appear to be 90% foam! Got a builder coming into to fill some holes and re-render around the door frame, plus fit an L shaped pvc trim to cover the bits they can’t render (i.e all that bleedin’ foam!!).

You should have got a BSI Kitemark cert with the door that shows exactly how it complies with BS 4873/PAS24 (“secure by design”) with descriptions, hardware etc.  It’s mainly just a bunch of hardware numbers though with a brief description, but you can compare to what you had fitted to ensure it is the same. There’s nothing really tangible other than that..

Good news!  They came back a week ago armed with a longer cill and replaced the short one…. Much better now. They had to cut a tiny piece out the decking but that’s not a big deal.

Onwards to get the outside finished now!

Got a 2016 2L petrol CX5 (no idea model… Something something nav). Like it.. Not very exciting but does the job. Loads of boot space and bikes fit easily with wheels still on once seats down. The in-car entertainment system is good but sometimes randomly restarts (ones pre 2015 had a godawful system I thankfully don’t have)!

Seats aren’t as comfy as our old Volvo S60 but pretty decent still. Not particularly fast to accelerate either, but that’s due to the non-turbo petrol engine, so if you are looking at diesel then probably not an issue. Suspension is good compared to most other SUVS, with way less wobble and decent cornering.

Had it a few years,,bought with 23k miles on clock, and it’s only still got 30k on it. Fitted some Michelin cross climate SUV tyres last year which are great, and have had to replace all pads/discs…but apart from that it’s fine. Not exciting or sexy but does the job. MOT next month so will see if anything crops up..

Cheers both, sent an email earlier.

Thank you! Will see if I get any sort of error email today and if not, try and ring them tomorrow 🙂

Had the pleasure of sitting a couple of seats away from NO on a Sunday flight back to Edinburgh from Heathrow in August. He uses his buff as a face mask, but only in the most cowardly way : he’s quickly pulls it up over his mouth for a minute any time air crew walked past him, but then would immediately pull it back down again once they were out of eyeshot.

Thanks all, I’m visiting every day and asked for a doc chat but it never materialized yet – they seem to come once in the morning at a random time then that’s it.

Also spoken to nurse in charge about the pain issue she has and trying to get some traction for them to investigate. The physio thinks it’s because her muscle and bones are stronger so it’s a bigger trauma, but I’m not so sure as she’s in agony with any sort of hip abduction.

Pain meds are tricky as her bp was dangerously low with fainting even lying down when she’s on a high dosage of oxycontin. She’s down to 3×3(whatever a 3 is) a day plus breakthroughs of a “2” when needed.

Piggy backing on this thread. My (early 40s) wife fell about 10 days ago and severely fractured her hip – she’s had surgery for a transfemoral nail . She’s still in hospital recovering and the rehab only really started about 5 days after surgery due to low bp /oxycontin issues.

There’s not much on the internet about this surgery (unless it has a different name) and the booklet she has been given is only for hip replacements. Can I assume the recovery will be similar? She can only shuffle a few steps on a zimmer and is in lots of pain with any lateral motion (minor hip abduction I guess)… No one seems to know if it’s just muscles/tendons rubbing and moving over the metal or if there’s something more sinister. Anyone had similar surgery?

It’s a total nightmare trying to speak to anyone at the hospital as they are so understaffed and physio/occhealth/docs/nurses don’t seem to communicate with each other. My wife says she has already been discharged by occupational health as I ordered a frame for the toilet and they said that’s all she needed.. But we don’t even know if she can get up stairs to the bed when she gets home!

Sorry.. Think there are questions in there somewhere.

Killicrankie..great idea! Even got an NT sticker on my car. Just checked streetview and theres no barriers at the entrance either so should be ok to get in that early.

A few shops have 58s in the Trek checkpoints.You can use the Trek website to find stock, it’s usually pretty accurate.

I just had a 58 ALR 5 delivered from Cookson Cycles for £2150 with no delays..2x GRX and seems a decent replacement for my old winter bike. Can you top up with the £150, or go down to ALR4 if not possible. Loads of different mount points for guards and rack. Colour looks weird in below photo, it’s teal irl.

Small update. Local Trek dealer have taken frame number and photos to send to Trek. They said they aren’t sure if covered or not (2 year paint warranty long gone, and corrosion isn’t covered), but they will see what Trek say.

In the meantime I’ve confined it to turbo duty so stripped the mudguard and gave the area a clean. Bit better photo below if it helps any analysis.

… And managed to snag the closest Trek to my old 720 on the C2W scheme. Checkpoint ALR5.

Brilliant thanks all! I’ll take off the mudguard at the weekend and give it a good clean around to try and see the full extent. I don’t think the exposed bit was caused by the mudguard rubbing directly: there’s a fair few mm of clearance. Wonder if corroding from the inside out with water dripping/sitting down the steerer after lots of wet scottish commutes? Not heard back from the shop yet, and I doubt it’s a major priority for them given I didn’t buy from them in the first place.

I love the frame so much, even if the fork is damaged and not a warranty job, I may buy that fork anyway..although most of the (replaced twice over) groupset is gubbed, I need to get new brakes(again) to replace the cable discs, and the post mounts mean it’s a pain to get decent hydros, so it might not be cost effective. The Hope wheels are in decent nick though!

Cheers that’s super encouraging they have a replacement fork.. With the mounts for my weird fork bag cages too ( I think..as mine seems to have 2 bolts on the fork) 😃. Just hope the shop can do something. Is there a risk they might say I haven’t maintained it well enough and that’s caused the corrosion? The bike looks like an absolute shed, but I do look after the moving parts!

Edit – I think it might have been 2015 actually.. Time flies!!

Do I still need to reply to this for it to appear on the forum list, as it’s not visible currently!

The RS510 chainset is modelled on the 5800/5700 chainset so I can’t see why a 5800 left arm wouldn’t work.

£72 on merlin is a cracking price for what is basically the older 105 chainset.

Just so I’ve got this correct : The “forensic analysis” was carried out by Allied Security Group (ASOG) who are a known right wing firm, ran by a failed republic nominee, who also ran another website, everylegalvote.com, that sole purpose was to delegitimise the election (Source). The only “news” outlet to run with this is the far right Epoch Times.

Yep, that’s me convinced.

Almost ready to give this a bash!

Bleed kit purchased
New barbs/olives purchased
cheapo hose cutter ordered.

Does the reverb barb sit flush with the hose? There doesn’t seem to be too much space for anything except the hose in the frame/fork holes. Not many places with stock of the barb but ordered a couple from amazon for £2.57 each (due 23rd Nov). Think it’s worth the wait given I won’t have to do a full emptying of the fluid, plus the bonus of easy re-threading!!

Thanks both! Is a new olive/barb a necessity if I’m not cutting the hose and just disconnecting/re-routing/re-connecting at the caliper end?

Awww he’s absolutely lovely ❤.

Recommend a slip lead (gun dog style with no elasticity). We found it by far the best way to make behavior corrections whilst out walking. I’d also recommend breed specific training classes if available : retrievers are a bit strange in that they are easy to train and respond to corrections but easily go into strops if pushed too far.. They will actually sulk! If there are any decent gun dog trainers around your area they should be able to help. Standard super positive-reinforcement puppy/adolescent classes might not work due to his age and the breed : the gun dog training style is a bit more structured with slip leads (“corrections” With a slip lead sounds soo cruel but it isn’t!!).

Get used to him doting on everyone he meets.. That’s one of the best and worst Goldie traits.. They absolutely adore everyone they meet and make people feel so loved, but that makes it a nightmare when some folk dont want to be cuddled..especially in these covid times!

More pictures please 😀

We got wee Ethel almost a year ago now so might be in a good place to offer some up to date advice! She was our first dog and nothing really prepared us for a golden retriever pup. We’d done our research and settled on a GR for all the reasons everyone had said above (loyal, cuddly, good with everyone, chilled etc). However it is still super-hard in the first year with a goldie (which is why I wonder if your friends want to rehome).

Up to about 6 months – SO much nipping and biting and a bundles of energy. Really easy to train but always on her terms. By far the best and quickest learner in any puppy class she went to, but she would also get bored easily and just be desperate to play with other dogs or human : that loving/social side is a hinderance when it comes to training!

She’s quite independent, which combined with some of the usual puppy/GR behaviors meant we were at our wits end a few times: she would give everyone cuddles except us, so the “positives” of cuddles to balance out usual “negative” puppy/GR traits never really balanced. She’s still not super-cuddly with us but it’s getting better since her first season weirdly. That’s just a wee warning – not all GR are the same and you might not get one that’s a big cuddlebug with you.

After 6 months they stop biting.. or their adult teeth come through and they bruise rather than cut! By 7 months there was no biting except when we were play fighting, and even then it was soft biting by her. We switched from “normal” obedience classes to gun dog classes and that made a huge difference in obedience – she thrived under a bit of discipline (sharp tugs of slip leads)! Our trainer bred G.Rs and said there’s never one the same as another – and they’ve got a very sensitive personality so go into strops if told off too harshly!

Recall is still rubbish – if there’s another dog or human, there’s no meat product in the world that will make her come back. I’m hopeful it’s just an age thing and if we keep doing the gun dog classes, she will come good. She’s good on a lead though – not much pulling, or she takes corrections easily.

She’s got bags of energy and a huge personality – she makes whoever she meets feel so special as she just goes over to them and sits at their feet looking up waiting for cuddles. She gets probably 2hrs+ exercise every day although mostly on the lead.

As for hair…OMG so much hair. We’ve got wood floors downstairs thankfully but still need to sweep/hoover a lot..there are sometimes tumbleweeds of dog hair rolling around! Currently awaiting a leather couch as our (year old) grey fabric couch is literally the worst colour for showing blonde dog hair ever!!

So…I would absolutely recommend a GR, but go in with your eyes open – not all are the same and it will be a huge heap of work to get a well rounded hound.

Obligatory pics from the last few weeks:

First race last night since some laser racing in 1996.

Came 3rd..

..Out of 4.

..Narrowly beating a 10yr old who capsized his topper 8 times due to his (lack of) weight..

…I’ll take that as a podium still :D :D