Might I suggest that on artificial tracks it suggests that the line wasn’t the best and the corner created for the sake of it.

I know what you mean. When I’m at Stainburn I often think that I could be down at the bottom in moments if it weren’t for all those annoying paths with corners and such.

What’s particularly frustrating is that the chicken lines become trickier than the proper one, then new chicken lines appear and make it a right mess. This often when the original line could be ridden by any MTB’er with an ounce of confidence. I think rocks frighten people, trail builders should use other materials like pillows and soft vegetation. I mean ffs Stainburn doesn’t even have soft vegetation, if you’re off then it’s punishment by gorse. Can the trail builders not pull it all out and replace with some nice petunias???

</rant>

That is amongst the stupidest things I have ever read on STW.

The other being under trail heating. That was classic.

You don’t mention forks, so unless you’ve got something particularly fragile on the scandal…

Option 1) Buy a second ‘burly’ wheel set for the scandal with flow rims and big tyres?
Option 2) Get some skills training to help you get the 2′ drops silky smooth and no more investment should be required.

Maybe do both…?

I’d have thought so. The stanchions are 32mm and the wipers will probably support a variation of somewhere in the region of 1mm, even if it’s not an ideal fit.

I don’t know about Fox, but the Rock shox internals are all inside the stanchion so it’s probably not the hardest thing to ‘make’ the lowers from another fork fit.

Lastly, it does state that they don’t really work too well.

+1 havoc, lovely bars by all accounts and enough usable space to trim a bit of needed.

Edit: I should add that if you’re already over stretched and going wider you might want to consider a radically shorter stem. Maybe even 50mm. It’d be ideal if you could borrow one to try first though.

As far as Endura sizing goes the alignment of the planets is a factor. Can you return them? I’d only buy their kit after trying it on.

You could try large but you’ll probably find the waist is far too big and the distance between waist and crotch is too long leading to saddle interference issues.

That said I do like my singletrack shorts.

Sounds like a good price for a new frame from a reputable brand. From the pictures it looks like quite a nice frame.

If you can find one there’s a generic alu dirt jump frame that can be had for less than £100, CRC brand it as Brand-X and Merlin have also been known to badge it up as their own. Don’t know if you’d get much cheaper that’s decent so I’d say you’ve done well.

I have some 2.2 RQ BC editions and they seem really good. Loads of grip on most surfaces, and very smooth rolling. I’ve not had them on for long so can’t really comment on wear, but suggestions of them deforming does concern me. If it happens to mine they’ll be back for a refund!

I don’t think they’re quite as bad in the mud as people make out. They’re certainly better than the High Rollers but maybe not so good as something like a Fire XC. I’d consider them to not be a mud tyre, but get away-able with for the odd bit of gloop.

It’ll be something standard like an M4 or more likely M5 bolt. If you struggle take the collar down to your local B&Q and see which bolt size fits. They might have the right length and head, or more likely not, but if you find that it’s an M5 for example then you can just Google ‘M5 30mm allen’ (or similar).

E.g. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.do?method=view&n=1591&g=240908&p=23013&c=215&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Nuts%20Bolts%20&%20Washers

Or even better http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/nuts-bolts-washers/pro-bolt-tapered-allen-head-stainless-steel-bolts

Kailzie Bunkhouse about 2 miles away. £20 per night with good facilities including good bike storage and lots of chickens.

Bang goes 11 months a year of my riding…

Well, maybe 7 or 8, anyway my line of thinking was more about using the basic bike for everyday stuff – local rides, commuting etc. I use my best bike over winter too – just not nearly as much as summer. You do get some good days in winter – the cold icy ones, or sometimes you just want to get out on it now and again regardless of conditions.

Some very sound advice here so far. My two-penneth worth is that that you should have at least 2 bikes…

My theory is around the classic 80/20 rule, in that you can ride 80% of stuff with 20% of capability/kit etc. etc. I know people will say you can ride anything on anything, but we don’t all have the necessary skill/confidence and so on, besides it is fun to get out on the old skills compensator now and again for some full on hooning.

Anyway, my point is, get a nice bike taking in the advice here as well as thinking about what appeals to you and what your aspirational riding style is, but only use it when you *need* it – big days out, trail centres etc. Try avoid using it through the winter when it’s going to get the most wear.

Secondly, get a basic (not cheap, they end up expensive) hardtail bike with fewer parts. Stuff that’s proven to last but might not be the lightest/latest/blingest. I’m thinking a second hand pair of Hope mini’s or maybe BB7’s. Simplify the drive train – e.g. singlespeed or if that doesn’t take your fancy 1×9 (maybe 1×8) so at least you can run a good stainless front ring. I like Hope hubs for their servicability, others will recommend Shimano XT etc, but as long as it’s well built kit that you can service easily/cheaply then you’re on to a winnner. Think about running some rigid forks, or maybe some lower end Rock Shox, and learn to do the interim servicing yourself. Get a square taper crank set with a Shimano UN54 BB – it’ll last an age. Use this bike most of the time, all through the winter and any time you don’t *need* your ‘proper’ bike. Make sure you get it set up right for you so it’s a nice bike in itself. Maintain it well, clean it, learn to do stuff yourself and get the appropriate tools.

The best bit of it all is, when you do decide to take your best bike out, you’ll really appreciate it!

I’d be willing to dig as long as it was a not for profit operation. I’m conscious that with private land there is an element of owners making money from volunteers. I have a fear about this at Gisburn where a visitor centre might attract a purple mountain type café which profits from the trails that volunteers have built a proportion of and maintain.

It might just be me, but I’m surprised that Drumlanrig attracts volunteers given the cost of entry, which must make the owners a tidy income whilst the trails seem to be mostly natural.

I reckon I know the wood you’re talking about. It would make for some very good riding wouldn’t it! Trouble is there’s too much about, in that people can park elsewhere and access other services, e.g. cafes etc.

They could probably set up something fairly specialist though such as some very good DH runs, don’t know if that would attract people to pay if they did a really good job…?

For xc stuff it’s in an area that’s already very well served.

I’ve used Chevin cycles in Otley a few times for jobs I don’t feel able to do myself. I don’t think they’re cheap but they do seem to be very competent.

Have you considered a bar and stem combo? You can often get both for not much more than bars alone.

Merlin cycles sometimes have them. You might want to consider a slightly shorter stem as you widen your bars. Nothing too drastic, maybe 10mm less per 30mm wider.

No personal experience with anything other than rock shox, but you should be able to drop the lowers off very easily to check. You’ll probably need to replenish the suspension oil and if there’s water in there I’d suggest you replace the seals*. If it were me I’d do a basic service whilst at it.

*My first instinct is that if your seals are in good order you should be ok. I might be horribly wrong though.

Stuff you can deal with using antiseptic wipes and plasters you can ride out with.

I have:
– gaffer tape (about 2m wrapped around pump)
– maxi pads
– tie wraps
– survival bag
– mobile phone with GPS (yes I know it won’t always work in every situation but in England 9 times out of 10 it will and getting a good 6 digit grid reference in a stressful situation is useful as we/I often don’t carry a map on familiar routes)
– whistle
– spare warm clothing (can double up as extra bandaging)
– storm shelter for remote rides
– scissors
– other general stuff that can be repurposed in an emergency
– most importantly, a first aid certificate

It’s probably not everything I need for every eventuality but I feel a good compromise.

On the cricket theme, how about a cricket ball in a sock? A bit full metal jacket but it might just do the trick.

Whilst applying said cricket ball method you could repeat the line, ‘this is my bike, there are many like it but this one is mine’.

*Notes to self that a career in the police force probably wouldn’t end well*

I don’t think it does just affect victims. It affects everyone who wants to leave their bike locked up somewhere, or who is making choices about how to transport kit especially when living in an area where the following home thing is known to take place. It costs money to insure against and more money to buy extra security measures.

For the record I’ve had two bikes stolen, one when I was really reliant upon it and couldn’t afford to replace it.

@lifer, I wasn’t being entirely serious, but it is a very good point. I’d imagine your typical bike thief will find it easier to round up a few thuggish mates with less to lose than your typical middle class mountain biker.

Frustrating though, isn’t it?

Maybe time for an stw vigilante group. Every time one turns up on gumtree/ebay 20+ people tip up with appropriate ‘bike liberation’ equipment…? Would work well for all the stuff disappearing in airedale at the moment.

Just a thought, seeing as the police don’t seem too fussed.

On a more serious note, I hope you do track your kit down and have some success in retrieving it.

There’s barely any difference in geometry between 16 and 18 so I’d argue that stand over height is the important factor. Without rechecking the numbers I think the effective top tube on the 18 is about 1cm longer than the 16, the rear triangle is the same and the head tube is a little longer so you can’t have the bars quite so low.

I found a 20mm reduction in stem length was right for me when going from 685 to 750.

I found that I needed a shorter stem when going from 685 to 750. I went from 60mm to 40mm.

You might be different but I’d recommend trying a shorter stem before getting the hack saw out.

then start again, repeat untill you go mad.

This is probably where giving full width a good outing before trimming comes in to play.

Buy some that can be cut down. That way you can try the full width and gradually prune until they suit. On one have some ‘el guapo ancho’ bars at 810mm that look good.

Edit: to quantify ‘can be cut down’, some bars are over size at the centre and quickly taper down so you have plenty of bar estate for grips and brakes etc. Others such as hussefelt & superstar have quite an extended taper so at their full length still don’t leave much room for cutting down and have brakes inboard. Admittedly I don’t know how good the on one bars are for this.

456 and summer season seem to have been bought together to make the 456 evo, which is somewhere between the two.

Like the others, it’s probably also very good.

£7 is a bargain I’d say, especially as Dalby actually seems to get maintained to some extent. There’s free parking in Thornton le dale I think, but of you’re on a time limit you’d be best just parking in the visitor centre.

Seems a bit odd. Without being overly cynical maybe your recommendation being for two alternative discontinued products was the killer. Buy these instead, CRC don’t have any but google is your friend. Maybe they just don’t have staff to moderate all the reviews they get.

If you were to be cynical there are all sorts of things you could assume, however it might be best to just ask them. I’d be interested in the response you get as I do use the review ratings as part of my product selection criteria.

Are there any published standards for reviews? Has anyone asked them for some?

I wonder if there’s some weird protectionist criteria that they apply? E.g. if there’s any hint that your review reflects badly on CRC it’s not published.

Edit: Why not post up on this thread the review that you submitted and we can see if there’s any reason they’d pull it.

Edit 2: Found this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Help.aspx?HelpTopicID=121

Is this with both loops yes?

Yes, both loops are quite short. In total notably shorter than Gisburn or Penmachno. Maybe similar length to llandegla.

Edit: actually I’m taking rubbish. Whinlatter red as a whole is in fact marginally longer than Gisburn, but for me it feels quicker and easier, so I maintain that you should be fine.

Easy peasy! It’s a bit rooty and technical in places on the north loop but certainly not something you’ll find challenging in comparison to what you’ve done. It is quite good fun though, and well worth a visit if you’re over that way.

If you’ve a day to fill consider the blue loop as well, or maybe the blease fell/lonscale fell classic.

There’s some stuff round Skipton where you’ll definitely get a few extra smiles from the 5, but I agree with the sentiment that either will be good.

Just watch the limestone if it’s wet.

Also had a positive experience claiming against a diver. Got a repair quote from an lbs and they paid up no questions asked.

I’d only consider getting a lawyer involved if it got more complicated. Don’t know what the pitfalls are in terms of accidentally admitting liability or closing the door if you have any further complications with your recovery though.

A bit OT, but how would one go about trying one of these out, and how long might it take to be able to ride one?

Nah. 29″ 650B is where it’s at.

Well said Mr PP. What is it with overtaking on bends as well? If you can see enough road who cares if it’s on a bend or straight, as long as it’s safe?

I think a multi car overtake might actually be safer, one manoeuvre instead of several. Quick, clean and decisive.

That is for extreme instances

Not going to get in to an argument, but that is not what is written. The text just says “unnecessarily”.

When you enter Yorkshire on one side, or Cheshire on the other. Derbyshire’s a tricky one because half is in the north and half in the south. Not sure exactly where the dividing line is though.

The slow driver is driving along safely within the rules of the road

See Driving without reasonable consideration – Section 3 RTA 1988

Which includes

unnecessarily slow driving or braking without good cause

Not sure what constitutes unnecessarily slow driving, but it seems there is provision to address the issue. I’d personally argue that unnecessarily slow is when you have a queue and people are getting frustrated. You almost always have the option to pull in and let people pass.

http://www.cps.gov.uk/legal/p_to_r/road_traffic_offences_guidance_on_prosecuting_cases_of_bad_driving/

Edit: Thinking about it, this might be a good candidate for some camera footage to be submitted to the police so they can take action…? Let’s say you’re following someone who’s doing 50 or less in a 60 on a good road, and you just happen to have a dash mounted camera…?

There are a lot of people who look like they are trying to justify speeding by saying other things are also bad. Rubbish arguing.

I think my point is that speeding is a symptom of poor driving where it is inappropriate, but in itself is not necessarily bad. It is illegal, but as we know all things that are illegal are not necessarily bad.

Anyway, our favourite badly moustached dictator has been thrown in to the argument now, so I fear the argument has become unwinnable.