It does look the same so I’m 99% sure it will be, I’ll add Saccades and Origin_AI to my list of people to email next week when I’ve made a few more. Whilst checking the fitment on my frame, its amazing how out of alignment the frame is with the hanger. The bit with the 3 bolts seems fine, but the bottom part of the slot the hanger fits into is completely on the piss compared to the top! Is anyone else’s like that, I don’t think it’s a problem, just strange!

Kermit4King – I don’t think it would be too hard to make a slotted dropout for both sides, with a sliding threaded insert on the driveside to use the existing axle (although slightly longer may be required). I’d want to keep the length down though, both to keep the leverage down on the bolts and otherwise you’d have disc alignment issues. I think -5 to +10 mm from the original position would be possible. However I’m not convinced it would clamp well enough to not slide. All the single speed setups I’ve run have used serrated axles and nuts clamping hard onto steel frames. Can anyone else comment on a traditional 12mm bolt through axle used on a singlespeed setup?

What is not working about your tensioner, should be simple to setup single speed with something like a Rolhoff tensioner.

1.5t mini-digger is great fun, but don’t underestimate just how big a 30cm stump can be under the ground! Hard to dispose of once out of the ground.

Photos of the finished hangers, fit feels fine. I’ll send out messages to the first 20 names on my list, I counted 28 though so will do another batch early next week and message the remaining people then. Check your inboxes shortly!

6082 grade ali. Because I’ve been making them out of offcuts and scraps of metal it was easier to do them individually rather than out of larger blocks, so the process is quite slow as each one needs loading into and out of the machine’s vice three times. Had to buy a couple of taps as well, never made a hanger before. I’m thinking £16 each + £3 postage per order. Payment via Paypal Gift preferred or can do bank transfer.

Yes I believe it fits all Ragley ali and steel frames from 2019-2023. I will send out PMs when they are ready to anyone who has asked in this thread first. If they run out I can do another batch.

Don’t under estimate the power consumption of a gaming PC setup, idling in games is certainly not free!

I’ve done a batch of 20, so hopefully that will cover everyone on STW :-)

Made some good progress on the hangers tonight. Still the last op needed to add the annoying slot, but should be finished on Thursday evening.

The Brand-X Ascend Wireless Dropper Seatpost brings you simplicity and smooth performance at a budget-friendly price.

£399!! How is that budget friendly?! It’s also super ugly.

I’m not very good at reverse engineering parts, need more practice. For this I used a Aberlink Project X, which is a 2D camera based measuring system, so it roughly picks up edges and gives good measurements on the distance between the holes. I imported this 2D mesh of points into 3D CAD software and then redraw it using the points as a guide. All depths and thickness measurements are done using Vernier calipers.

I made a CAD model for the hanger last night.

Printed a prototype, had to make some minor adjustments, the undercut slot is a bit of a pain to machine.

Tested fitted looks good, very close to the original, although I may make the bendy bit slightly thicker.

Aiming to machine some after work next week at some point.

I’ve slipped and purchased one of the £560 Nukeproof Dessent DH frames to replace my 2008 Canfield frame which is feeling very retro. Not sure what I’m going to do for cheapish 29″ DH forks though :-(

930/950g for the Maxxis I think so very similar. RSP carbon bars are lighter, as is a ti bolted Foride stem and I think my pedals are sub 300g.

Nothing major, but a lot of things on mine are a little lighter so it all adds up. Bet there’s a fair bit in the wheels, the I25 KoM with Laser spokes, Ali nipples and tubeless saves a fair bit. Light brakes with smaller light rotors. 395g cassette and pikes also help.

Ok, at some point over the next couple of weeks I’ll have a look at making a batch.

If anyone does break a hanger and can’t find a replacement, send me a message and I can machine a few, the design isn’t complicated. Only thing I can’t easily do is get them anodised black, so they’d be raw silver.

He’s mine, finished the mods now. 140mm Pikes, Sram 1×11 Gearing, WTB i25 KoM on boosted Superstar Switch and Hope Pro2 hubs, Hope Race X2 brakes, One-Up 150mm Dropper, Maxxis 2.4 Dissector/Rekon tyres and whatever finishing kit I had spare. 12.5Kg (27.5LBs) as pictured.

I’ve absolutely hammered a set of Raceface AR40 rims on my eEnduro bike and they’ve been faultless, so no concerns about the rims, but I do hate Shimano hubs with a passion and all my other wheels are 6 bolt not centerlock. Need to order some non-green fork decals.

The 1st build attempt before I changed my mind:

I thought I’d have mine finished tonight, for the 2nd time, but couldn’t find any tubeless tape I was happy with, so it will have to wait a while. I originally built it with some new OEM Orbea wheels and 12spd gearing removed from a new bike (for sale in Gloucestershire if anyone is interested) but decided to boost some old Hope hubs I had lying around, built onto some cheap i25 KOM rims with spare slightly used 11spd gearing instead. Yellow Marley 29 frame with odd red and blue bits so a bit of a mash up, but kinda works.

Where are you located. I have a Hope Pro2 HG 135×10 bolt up hub (fits in QR frame but uses Ti bolts with 8mm Allen key for more stiffness) I could build onto a Superstar rim. £90 collected from Gloucestershire.

I like Canon due to the cost and availability of second hand lenses. Something like a Canon 7D MK2 body can produce great image quality and has a quality autofocus system for moving stuff. Should be able to get a body used for £300+. Combined with some like a Sigma 17-50 F2.8 (£100) is a great starting combo.

Cheers, purchased a pair of 29×2.25 Maxxis Rekon Race + some chainlube to get over £30 for free postage.

I think I’ve used H6 tolerance in the past for press fit bearings, using heat/freezer/press to fit. For 22mm that works out as 19.987-20.000, so 19.9935 nominal. If you go for bang on 20.000 use 638 bearing retainer, although not ideal if under side loads.

On my Evo Rage is used a 80T wood blade for the Ali profile for the garden studio I built last year. Less grabby than the TCT blade and lasted the project fine.

I ordered on Friday. Parts were delivered yesterday for me, frame yet to arrive. Same dispatch email, nothing related to the frame.

Assuming you are using a normal sort of PC case, you can get a 92mm cpu cooler for £14, easiest option. You could just replace the fan, but the CPU paste will be dried crap so you really need to remove the cooler and repaste whilst you’re at it. New cooler will come ready pasted.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermalright-ASSASSIN-Aluminium-Heatsink-Technology/dp/B0BNBX5MZT

The Marley does look good in yellow, so much so I’ve ordered one, hope the order is fulfilled! Going to build it up with some spare Yari, DT 481/Hope wheels and all the rest of the parts from a 26 Banshee Spitfire I haven’t ridden in a while.

Wrong, the Lyrik/Yari air springs are not compatible with the Pike/Revelation ones due to having a larger diameter chassis.

Clan Crusader, it’s not an ideal biking car!

I can send you some stuff, PM me your email address. Lez Carroz is very bikepark, typical Zore kinda stuff, Sameons more of a semi-controlled crash down a very steep cliff full of roots.

I use normal ali rings fine, wear doesn’t even seem to be too bad. I’m getting 2 years out of 1 cassette, 1 chainring + 3 chains.

Firestick is normally the easiest solution, simple remote, easy to use, £25ish.

New 630Wh battery @3KG sounds good compared to 3.5 for Bosch and 3.7 for Shimano.

I make them out of 0.8mm Polypropylene sheet.

If anyone has money in Nicehash, make sure you move it before the 10th October, they are pulling out of the UK market due to regulation.

I really want to buy a new Orbea Wild but can’t bare to put up with the internal headset routing. Already loads of report of headset bits breaking and worn hoses.

I struggled to get a good bleed on some Guide RE brakes recently. A couple of hours with the brakes cable tied on hard and calipers oriented to let the air rise made them solid. I think the new caliper must have trapped an air bubble.

The first question I always ask is what monitor you want to use, as that defines what you need from a PC’s performance. I personally like a 34″ ultra wide 3440×1440 144Hz monitor. These can be had for £3-400, look pretty good without being as demanding as a 4k monitor, wider field of view and decent refresh rate. Adaptive sync is vital, I’d never PC game without it, but most monitors support it now, TVs you have to be more selective with.

I think Hope H mount is +23mm or you can use a normal +20 adapter and add a couple of extra washers.