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Viewing 40 posts - 361 through 400 (of 480 total)
  • Even More Sea Otter New Things
  • Gee76
    Free Member

    Next sl… Darn auto correct!

    Gee76
    Free Member

    28t and 11-36 here too. Reasonably fit and don’t mind about spinning out but enjoy cleaning steep techy climbs… Sometimes in my head tho. Running raceface next so cranks 2 x 10. Home made bash (turned down g-ring) and home made light upper guide attached to bb. Would probably just buy hope guide now they copied me tho;).

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Ta chaps. Not given up yet, the windowlene felt tacky last night. Will see if its set tonight. Failing that the 3m spray looks good, got it watched on eBay!. How’s it to get off?

    Failing all that I may have to move withe times n go for ESI’s. Mates have em n like em. Cheers Charlie!

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Ahhh I wondered if anyone else rebadged them. KCNC tho eh, that maybe a wakeup call as to how weight weenie I’ve gotten haha.

    Cheers for checking Jameso, if yours aren’t too used I’d happily take them. Think mine have been on and off a few time and gotten a bit loose. Can’t just get one to stick. I’ve degreased, tried 2 types of hairspray, tried to get em to set in house (in case garage is too cold) and I’m now testing windowlene. Shame as no wear on them really. See what you can see anyway.

    Ta

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Ooo cool, are they new may I ask. I have some already but they mighta gone baggy I think!.

    Mountain rescue would seem befitting I think.

    G

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Aye I’m running 2 x 10 cranks (80/120 bcd) and figure a 30 or 31t chainring is about right for me too. Fortunately a coupla manufacturers are starting to do these in 80 bcd.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Spev, was lookin at that cog too, well 41 tooth. There’s a thread on mtbr on it. Looks interesting. Looked at me ratios and thought might ditch my 15 & 17 and replace with 16 tooth cog. Don’t fancy loosing my 11 tooth!
    Also thought I’d go up a bit at front for better overall spread on my 1 x 10 setup. At the mo I’ve biased towards climbing.

    Spoke to the guy about a custom 10t lockring but required specific tooling he couldn’t commit too.

    He did say he’d help out with duty if req’d. I’ve a friend also interested. Maybe a mini group buy. Might get us a price break!

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Hey there, think you may be able to go down (if adaptors arr still available), but maybe not up if there owt like 240’s. (or most other dt hubs) You’ll probably be limited by bearing size. Give pace (uk service agents) a ring tho and they’ll confirm.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Ta Jalll, advice appreciated. I can fill in the gaps and your English is better than my Spanish. I’ve ridden the sierra Nevada a bit so know what you mean about dry trails. Only ridden a Sultan over garburn in the lakes on demo and a mini unit ss rigid for 2mins. Think I just need to think a bit more about the intended use for my bikes. I’ll get there with right decision.

    Good point about wheels. Was thinking along lines of dt 350 or 240 hubs with arch ex rear and maybe a pacenti tl28 front so should be nice n light.

    I’ll keep on pondering and coming back…like a moth to a flame eh!

    Gee76
    Free Member

    I believe hope are about to start doing Arch EX hoops (according to the London bike shoe reports) so may be found at a slightly better price shortly if it helps!.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Ahh TLR, a fellow sympathiser… that is almost a fear here too. What if it put me off my ASR5 too and I love it!. What is it that tempts you with a 29er HT?

    This is probably the only ht to turn my head from the 456ti in 3 years and only then for the rumoured 29er added comfort, reverb compatibility, Otherwise it’s a similar bike pretty much.

    . Should I be worried about a loss of maneouverability and fun factor over the Ti456 I guess?.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Darn it, it looks like I am back here again… I need some more convincing… how much better than my ti456 is this… can I live without it… more reviews please… or is it that everyone is out riding em…

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Ahhh you’ll make me squeeze onto an 18″ at this rate!

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Haha, sorry again bout that. Looks like someone has done me a favour now anyway. 20″ all gone again. But yeah I’d have built wheels for it too so would prob had been a while building it up and tracking down a rev or sid 29 deal.

    My ti456 is still very strokeable and has just had a few new bits so content for a bit anyway…. Ahhhh.

    Still let us know how it goes, it appears I can’t gel coming back here…

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Hmmm darn spell checker… Assess was meant to be waswas!!! Sorry.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Oh will someone please put me outta my misery n buy that last one or convince me to buy it with a great write up or update. Assess you built yours yet… Thoughts please… Further convincing comparisons against a ti456… Anyone… Bueler bueler…

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Oh yeah “Jall” (or anyone… can you point me in the direction of the FSA headset you mentioned…

    “…if anyone is interested on use a 140 mm fork fsa has a headset that could be used with tapered fork on 49 without external bearings…. so the geometry is respected…. “

    Cheers

    G

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Oh no why did I come back here… no decals tho :(.

    Not even a headtube badge???

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Cheers Swayndo, Cheapy 20’s are all gone now (phew) n mebe thinking the 18″ might be a bit short in top-tube… maybe my ti456 is safe for now!!!

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Hmmm interesting, that’s v close to me. Short top tube eh, still getting to grips with the 29er geo thing and only really ridden a sultan but I thought that’d be pretty long with a 90!. Was thinking 60mm but then after a bit more playful ride!

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Hmmmm soooo theoretically then at 6′ 2″ with 32-33″ legs what size is good. Currently on 456ti in 18″ its of the compact agile type of fit but with Lotta post showing. On the other hand my asr5 is a large 20″ due to yeti’s geo. Handling again is great n playful but a bit more stretched.

    I note the fireline has a slightly shorter toptube than a 456 so erring towards a 20″ I think???.

    Bigdug, swayndo, chuff how tall are we?

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Oh dear:S

    How agile is the fireline compared to the 456?

    Gee76
    Free Member

    More ride reports would be a terrible thing… for my old bike 😉

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Haha i knew it’d make it up there… And ya still alive!!! but hmm them wheels look suspiciously small 😉 😀

    Lucky bugger to get out tho, looks like water was only coming from below which is an improvement on our last coupla rides.

    Hope it wasn’t too expensive a ride 🙂

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Aye the ebay sellers do seem to offer conflicting weights so an actual would be great Schweiz, cheers 😆

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Dare I ask how the actual weighed weight is looking??? (for such a good price!! (he says wishing for the moon on a stick :D))

    Gee76
    Free Member

    In a similar vein I rather like my yeti asr5 carbon. Should build up as light as 23-24lb but is low and slack (67 deg)so will comfortably take on most things. Adjustable forks would also add another level of flexibility tho prefer a more fixed front end. Running forks at 140mm the bike is a hoon. Currently trying 130 with similar results tho it likes climbing a little more.
    You should be able to pick up an ally asr5 frame for £1k ish leaving another £1k for the build.

    As already said the bandit looks similarly great too!.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Have you looked at the Ritchey V5 Pardigms!. Nice and light at about 260g if that’s what your after. Mine have been reliable for over a year now since they improved the bearing design (0ver previous v4’s). Platform is pretty small but depending how much support you get from your shoes that might be fine.

    They are also shimano compatible. No silly materials in there so no weight limits and also means cost isn’t hideous either. Under £50 from our German friends.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Go-on spill the beans:-)

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Ah sounds more of a cost/convenience thing then. Most on MTBr seem to be going with rimstrips whereas I’d prefer to use up the tape and valves I have. Was also a bit weary that extralong valves might be required but presumably that shouldn’t be a problem.
    Ahhh £23, seems to be what I expected, not too bad considering. Nice birthday present though eh.. a faster bike.

    Yeah the spokes with nips make it seem a waste to go off an buy further nips. Think I’ll forgo the 20 g per wheel saving there, not least because no-one seems to have had a good word for em yet. I’m leaning towards silver spokes too, cheaper but kinda like the looks… dry mud on em doesn’t seem to show either.

    I believe “boxfish” was also building up some LB 26er Wide rims too, not seen any pics yet either. Be good to see some more.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    I suppose coming from a 2300g set of wheels your gonna be pretty much at max stiffness so by dropping over a pound and having no issues I guess that speaks volumes. Not sure about the carbon dampening thing but it’s more subjective, and thus subject to web blurb voodoo!!. In a similar vein I see mixed views on carbon bars (I quite like the benfits of them myself).
    I hope to drop about 300g going from about 1750g down to about 1450g.

    I’m thinking around 350 front and 370 rear for the 26er wides on DT 240’s, revs/(Supercomps maybe) and brass nips. Gloss sounds a good shout but might still prefer the stealth Matt.. I’ll check the thread again for any pics. Not gone thru all the 29er one yet but avidly followed the 26er one… stuck at 28 pages currently. Was hoping to run Tape and my existing Stans valves, did you try either?. How did you get on with customs by the way, what rate did they apply?

    There’s definitely a pattern with ally nips so I think I will be avoiding em. Tis good too as most spoke come with brass nips.

    Yes the hub thing had put me off a bit with the Havens (and costs), they look great but heard they are good but a few issues with hubs made me think of going with DT. Had some dialogue with Easton and Extra (IIRC) and the hub compatibility thing was a bit of a minefield and evne more costly than DT. What’s next/new for you the GeeTee… ally, carbon, grahpine, plasma???…..

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Cheers Rudiboy. I was looking at Davids website with regards to spokes, nipples etc. Very informative and he made quite a good case for ally nipples iirc.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Aha someone else on the 26er wide rim. Sounds like so far so good. Did you get Tell me more Deus, how are they riding compared to ally?, is the difference as pronounced as the web blurb would have you believe?, better turn in?, more damped ride?, snappier response?

    Yup I think ally nips are looking not so likely now. No-one seems to have a good word about them so far.

    Cheers GeeTee, I’ll give them a look up. I did wonder if there is some more specialist experience in the NW to draw upon… and indeed if I need to call on it. Was tempted with DIY but have also been looking at Merlins (although they’ve not done many carbon builds) and Hewitts (who do plenty of carbon builds… for the road (– incl for Mr Wiggins) and some offroad).
    Are you still on the Havens or did you go for Enve’s IIRC from one of the Haven Carbon threads I read?

    It seems a bit of a mixed bag with Revs, CRC for instance emphasise a for XC use only recommendation. DT on the other hand seem to imply they’re cut out for rougher applications via their web page. Most people here seem to be erring towards the later I think.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Aha, cheers chaps. That does sound interesting (and good for my wallet too). Particularly as Bike24 look good on Supercomps, D-lights and Revs (in fact most spokes/nips). I had also read Lasers aren’t particualarly great for use with Discs but suspect this may be further web blurb (its hard to sort the wheat for the chaff eh!!)

    Always good to get real world feedback to put the web blurb in context a bit.

    I’m very light on front wheels and a wee bit clumsier with back wheels, I ride anything from Xc singletrack to rougher Lakeland (Garburn type) rocky descents and a few drops. Currently running Pro II’s with Sapim DB spokes and Crests up front (which I have not come close to bending) and Flow at the back (tho I suspect an Arch EX would probably be enough of an Ally rim at the rear).

    The move to allegedly stiffer carbon rims has me thinking I am probably safe on Revs or Maybe D-lights or Supercomps. So thanks for the added confidence. I think I might live with the extra 20g per wheel for Brass nips.

    Any thoughts on spoke counts?. Thinking I could at least drop to 28 on the front, 32 at rear. Especially looking at a lot of Carbon Wheelset which seem to feature 24 or 28 spokes.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Heh!!. No worries B.A.Nana this is not a vanity exercise at all. I presume your talking just about the looks or have you ridden on CX-rays?. Its more feedback on the feel I was after!!.

    Although I appreciate function, it has to be in balance with form. (It’s the sad engineer in me!!). I’m just curious about the claimed extra stiffness and the DH capable claims. Could never spin fast enough for any aero benefit anyways.

    At the mo tho I agree its sounding like the extra cost is not worth it, or at least CX-rays can’t be had at reasonable cost. I suppose they’re not as dear as the Sapim Superspoke at least… they really are eye watering.

    With regards to alloy nipples I understand corrosion can be an issue. However I have found a few sites discussing how alloy nipples are more increasingly acceptable. From what I can gather Sapim now make alloy nipples with anti-corrosion treatments that can outlast those used on conventional brass nipples. That in combination with a bit of lube should keep things all nice and adjustable (I’d hope!!).

    Which alloy nipples did you have a disaster with WasWas??

    Deus – I’m Looking at the Light-Bicycle wide 26ers. What are you running?

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Quick replies indeed. Thank you, I should clarify I don’t intend to use the wheels for DH. I’ll keep a separate set for that rare day out.

    Just wondered how much is in the claims the CX-Rays are capable of DH which I’ve seen noted against the spokes on a few websites. Indeed they are the same gauge as Revs (they’re actually flattened lasers). However as I gather the cold forging process increases the Stiffness and Fatigue life. They may carry the extra tension carbon rims are rumoured to require better too!.

    I’ve never seen claims that Revs can be used DH and mostly quite the opposite (CRC recommend light xc use only for instance). Then again I have also seen comparisons that say the difference is sometimes hard to discern. (Google FAQload spokes for some interesting weights/observations)

    I hear Revs can feel a little more flexi than std DB spokes (Comps, etc). To the point some will use comps on drive side at the rear to stiffen up things.

    Agreed the CX-rays are pricey for no great weight difference over Revs and so the extra stiffness would have to be notable to make it worth while goring for CX-rays (or they’d have to be cheap 😉

    D-lights are a good compromise I think (good shout btw) they appear at about £1 each on JRA’s website.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Yeah bin lookin to do the same but alas dt don’t appear to do a kit for the std qr hub. Not sure the shell was big enough to fit the gubbins in. You have to buy the rather expensive “fifteen” hub or the oversize 240. Search on dt 240 over on mtbr wheel forums for confirmation. would live to know if this is wrong mind.

    There is a non dt kit on eBay.com but its $99 plus post and customs and presumably uses small bearings to fit everything in. Gets some ok write ups on mtbr tho still.

    If you haven’t bought the hub yet have a look at 350. Still only 135g in centrelock and not really convertible but a lot cheaper;-)

    Gee76
    Free Member

    You’ll need to get the 12mm chip kit for the yeti, (qr dropouts are only 10mm) which is 142mm spacing. Means another set of adaptors for the hub and you need a dt or Shimano axle depending on which chip kit you can get hold of.

    Gee76
    Free Member

    Good work tho, by the way. And the white paint might just strengthen up those rims for ya too;-).

    Amazon the difference in zip with light wheels. Missed ya on sat’d, twas a good sunny ride… With cake too!

    Gee76
    Free Member

    That white paint looks heavy tho 😉

Viewing 40 posts - 361 through 400 (of 480 total)