you know more than me then, you win the Internet. Ill just keep my 20 odd yrs of construction experience and do one.

Sounds like a plan. I didn’t realise it was a competition. But try to put a happy face on while you leave.. 🙂
And remember. There are plenty of people out there with 20 years or more of crap workmanship under their belt. Experience means nothing. Apparently!
Of corse any fixing in plasterboard is only as good as the fixing of the plasterboard to whatever it’s on. There was a bloke on here just the other day who’d had foil backed plasterboard dabbed onto his walls. So assuming that would be a good fix would be a bit daft now wouldn’t it number two?
For everyone who fixed their 42″ telly directly to the plasterboard and got away with it there’s someone else who’s heard an expensive crash during the wee hours.
Anyway, I’m off to polish my trophy.

Flagstones? Worth a fortune mate. Smashing them would be criminal.
Are you sure they’re flagstones?

wrightyson – Member
^^^ Not true !
Countless fixings available now. Such as the ones I sourced for my steel fabricator to fix a handrail to a jumbo stud wall. However none of the above is helping the op.

Note to self. Don’t use a handrail fitted by this chap.
Why do you think that in all new construction where stud walls are used, they place plywood backing behind any area where a fixture or fitting which will bear load is placed?
Yes there are countless fixings available for plasterboard. ALL have limited load bearing capacity. Simply because of the material being anchored to. Not the strength of the bolt or screw itself.

The proper way to fix a heavy object to a plasterboard wall is to remove the plasterboard where the item needs to go and provide a base which is properly fixed and will support the item. When in place plaster board back over the top and repair.
Fix item to wall with appropriate fixings.
Had to do this for a massive tv.

andyl – Member
I can’t agree with gear suck on the Asbestos side:

http://www.bristol.gov.uk/page/bins-recycling-and-street-cleaning/hazardous-household-waste

If you are employing a builder, make sure they include the cost of disposing the asbestos in their quote. It is a builder’s responsibility to take care of the waste if they have created it – so do not dispose of it for them.

I think you missed a bit there…

If in doubt, employ a specialist asbestos contractor to do the work for you.

In my case I am always up front with the customer about waste removal. As I do not have a carriers license and am not hazmat licensed either.
If it’s written in the contract that you agree you will not be dealing with it. Then it is not your responsibility as a builder/plumber.
I point customers to people qualified to deal with such materials. I’ve never had one complain about organising it themselves. Otherwise they’d be paying me to be a middle man. They see the logic where the costs are concerned.

You need a hasp and staple or a bolt. A mortise on a gate? Destined to need constant fiddling.

If he had two full lengths of cast soil stack he probably got a whopping £2.00 or less at the tat yard. I would quit bitching about that. He did you a favour TBF. Also, he can’t remove the asbestos from site unless he has a hazmat lisence because he has no way to dispose of it. That is your responsibility unless it was discussed otherwise in the quotation.
Regarding the gas work. If he’s not registered he has worked illegally. Report to gas safe. If you’re worried or can smell gas, Turn off the gas at the emergency control lever immediately, open doors and windows and call transco. They will come and put a test of the pipe work for free and advise you if there’s a problem.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m not defending him, but you have your priorities a bit skewed. Deal with the gas safe issue.
As for cash and legality. Payment, the most important part of the job, should also be discussed during in the quotation process.
It’s not against any law to work for cash or to ask for it. Whether he pays the tax on that afterwards is a matter for the tax office, not you. Frankly, you have no idea whether he will or won’t.
Asking for a receipt is perfectly reasonable and if he refused to give one, you just tell him. The cash will be waiting here for you when you bring it back.
I’d stop searching for ways to screw him over because your unhappy with what he’s done and start figuring out ways to either get him or someone else to resolve the issues you have.

Sometimes I come on here and read a thread like this then think. “**** me! I’m a complete retard!.”

I think the question was have you experienced something similar. Not, please tell me your gleeful gumtree success story!

As usual, no ones listening.

All this is subjective because as tinribz eludes to above, everything is dependent upon the type of ground in which the posts are going.

Let it happen and take care of yourself and the kids. Fighting to keep her is a waste of time I’d say, but the kids need major support right now. So you think about them. There’ll be time to think about your own needs when things settle down in the not to distant future.

And very hard to get off if you injure your finger.

Standard ovens are about 600 high and sit directly on a base in the unit. Modern ovens (under counter) are insulated and the cases are cool. In the case of a double oven it may be higher but usually not more than 715 – 720 in which case the support is the bottom of the cupboard. Feet (under unit) are adjustable to set the height of the unit for the correct kick board depth.
Edit: Yes, that sounds like it would be free standing.

The most useful thread regarding this subject yet. At least of the ones I could find. Everyone else seemed to think the screw does nothing. That doesn’t seem like shimano’s MO.

Oh god. I hadn’t thought about coffee. That would be the end for me!

Because Highways says so!

That might need to be do e as a separate transaction? Not sure.

I wouldn’t use it!

shitter You may be making light of the situation but as well as not being a doctor, plumber or lawyer, you also are not a gas engineer and therefore would not know that cleaning a pilot jet with a pin is one of the things you are instructed never to do in training. So you also won’t know that as slow and dim whited gas (engineers) we don’t only follow instruction blindly and actually learn the reason why not to do that.
It has to do with the correct operation of the appliance. The amount of gas consumed by the pilot, in addition to the pilot flame shape, size and position.
So the next time you disassemble your gas appliance you might also be interested to know that as well as the correct brass pilot jet size, accurate to thousands of an inch before being reamed by a steel pin. There are other safety critical parts, checks and procedures a gas engineer would be aware of to maintain your safety and the boilers integrity.
But hey, it’s simple and easy isn’t it?
So although the gas police probably won’t be knocking your door, at least this might be food for thought when your pissing about with something that has the potential to kill you and your family. Particularly when you are so full of blind arrogance and plain old ignorance.

A little more. Info and it becomes much clearer.
It would appear that the plumber who replaced your timer and stat doesn’t really understand what you’ve got, didn’t look properly or simply wired your components incorrectly.
Very often I get calls from people who say something is not working and when I get there, the story unfolds.
It’s notoriously difficult to replace programmers because although standard wiring schematics exist and are very useful, a lot of electricians and installers fail to use them.
Your system is outdated and very inefficient if you are unable to control heating and hot water independently. It would pay to have it modified to do what the plumber said had been done.
Often it takes a little figuring out, but it’s doable if your fitter is competent.
The alternative is to remove everything from the wiring center and redo it using the correct diagram. This is sometimes quicker than trying to figure out what was done in the first place.
Good luck

More information needed.
Have you lived there long? Because….Have you been able to control them independently in the past?
Do you know if you have a y plan system?
What are you hoping to gain by asking this question?
Can you fix it yourself if you get an answer you can understand?
I you don’t know the answer to any of these questions, call a plumber.

And. It’s probably the 3 port valve. You can replace the actuator on some and some you can’t. It won’t necessarily be a silver box at the junction of three pipes.

Go to an established and reputable supplier for your tiles. Unless you don’t mind your grout lines all over the place, then B&Q will be fine.

Unless you’re actually afraid that magic really might exist, it doesn’t matter much how he does it. I personally find it boring because, I don’t believe in magic, and they’re just tricks.

Theres a few on here you might like aspects of. They are ones I’ve fitted for customers.
https://www.facebook.com/doctorplumb?ref=hl

And all the talk of turning your streets water supply into something the same quality as a third world country is frankly bollox!

You see. This kind of ignorance is exactly why the regs exist. Because stupid people think, Oh! It’s ok , I’m good, I know what I’m doing. These rules are not for me. It’ll be alright. When really they have no clue.
I grant you, It’s unlikely to happen, but just think if you’ve got your hose pipe, for example, dipped into the bucket of horse shit you’re about to ladle onto your favourite rose bush. You didn’t fit a check valve to the outside tap and there’s a burst main downstream or the authority has to isolate for an emergency. That shit shit may sucked back into the pipe work and there’s the contamination.
Equally, it could just as easily be mud , stones or other debris if your new pipe was not sealed during installation.

I got your back sbibby1988
It gets my goat too, but I think it’s mainly down to two things. Times are hard and most people have no idea what’s involved.
I forgot to mention collecting the part from the supplier, which may involve an initial site visit to make sure you’re collecting the right one. I usually don’t charge for that.

If you have a combi. It’s simple to shut the flow and return valves at the boiler. Relieve the pressure through a bleed nipple and change the towel rail valve. This will involve little to no water loss as long as the valve on the other side of the rad is off.
There is no need to add inhibitor unless you ask him to.
If you asked him to change the valve, that’s what he’ll do.
If you asked him to change the valve and check the chemicals, that’s what he’ll do. And charge you appropriately.
If you have a non pressurised system, he will need to plug the fill pipe and cap the vent at the header tank, then proceed as above, excluding the boiler valves. (There won’t be any)
Now, do you think this knowledge, a trip to your house, an hours work, a replacement towel rail valve and a trip back to where he came from with insurance to cover the possibility of a mishap is worth £70 quid? Because I damn well do.
Edit: of course it could just as easily be a she!

I just bought a 9 -5 estate. 2.3 tid. It’s a 2005 and cost me £1500 I think it’s a great care and drives brilliant. I spent a little time and found one which had very goor service history and was well looked after.

Most places you’ll find lead mains they have been in long enough for the inside surface to have a coating of lime scale. This is why you rarely have concerns about lead contamination from lead mains.
There are exceptions:
One is in very soft water areas where lime scale buildup is negligible. And another is in the case of the lead main being disturbed, pulled about, altered or otherwise fecked about with as this breaks up the lime scale and exposes the lead.
It can also cause problems with fixtures and fittings should the particulates make their way into the internal piping.
As long as you have a minimum flow rate of 9 ltrs a minute at an outside tap, the water supplier is not obligated to do anything.
Be aware that by laws apply to the correct installation of water mains and the fitting of check valves etc. if you aren’t sure what you’re doing I suggest persevering to find someone who does.
The laws are in place to protect the water supply for the benefit of everyone. Not just you.

The level of stupidity being expressed in this hypothetical situation is staggering. It’s little wonder we are exterminating ourselves.

Why do you need them to be “very hard wearing” when the rest of us can get by with ally or stainless. Or is the clue in your name? 😆
I would think that the cost of ti outweighs the benefits of its longevity?? Swings an’ roundabouts ay it!
Edit:
I hear Wolverine cycles have developed a range of admantium chain rings.
I bet they’d last well.

The clapper looks like it should be holding up a stocking.

I’m fat because this year winter has turned me into a fair weather rider and I just haven’t been arsed to ride much of late.

It’s because of your fear Paulosoxo that plumber’s prices are so high.

No. It because we are required by law to pay to be qualified and registered so we can provide a safe and valuable service to people who would otherwise be tempted to do stupid and illegal things.

Hypothetically: new valve £180. Labour to fit and test (1.5hrs) = £50 call out for first hr +1/2 hr balance. £15 total = £245. Compared to best case scenario. Boiler swap @£1500.

Like I said.

Have the fork fitted at your lbs. Problem solved!

asterix – Member
they do look like fun but is there any real benefit of riding fat for such tame tracks as those?

I fail to see what difference that makes. It’s an off road bike and it was ridden off road. So the benefits, if any, are irrelevant. Besides, he passed me on the rooty section while I was mincing around and it seemed that the real benefit was having Dan on it.

I doubt you’ve got a hope in hells chance but there’s no harm in asking.

The answer is No.