30C quick wash with non-bio and no softener and they’re fine…

Wife but no kids yet, 2-3 times (the third is normally if she comes out)

Or keep it rigid!

Picked up my 09 iO weds. Tbh for a cheap and cheerful mud bike its a bit sexy! Got it filthy already and feel really guilty… *sigh* I can already see upgrades galore coming and then having to get another cheap bike to ride in the bad mud.

XC – crashing normally harmless
Trail – cuts and bruises upon crashing
AM – broken wrist upon crashing
Freeride – broken collarbone upon crashing

All tongue in cheek of course! As mentioned, most people probably do a mix of the first 3 on a 5″ forked HT or Full suss.

Marketing bollox but it’s all good fun and makes for pretty products and hammered credit cards!

Surely the PP holds the bike higher in it’s travel? When setting sag, if I put PP on it stops it reaching 25% when I set it up to reach that when open. If it hinders the bike sitting in it’s sag how can it sit lower in it’s travel?

del: yeah 08 five with the custom tune… climbing stood up I find PP3 and slighty bigger gear with slower smooth pedalling rather than higher temo ‘dancing’ works best…

I find PP spoils the handling though, the bike feels a bit stuttery and reluctant on ST with it on, flip it wide open and it sits down in the trail more and feels smoother and more willing…

Del: I find one and two don’t do much but 3 is very noticeable.

The Orange 5 climbs rather well if you sit the hell down but sometimes we all need to stand and that’s where setting 3 normally gets put on as the 5 literally buckles under standing pedal input on climbs…

I normally run a bit of 3 if it’s a smooth seated climb as well…

(This was on a different bike btw, just saying going by travel alone doens’t give the whole story)

They say 100mm is ideal but then my mate had a ‘zocchi MZ and replaced it with a Fox F120 and the axle to crown length was very similar.

Use that measurement instead of travel and you might find a 120mm fork is fine.

njee – doing a VERY basic inflation assumption of 8 years at 2.2% – that would put the 2001 S-Works at £3100 – carbon frame typically adds a fair whack even today. And suspension has moved on a lot – who’s paying for that R&D.

I agree that you could probably build something off the peg as good for less money but I don’t think the Spesh price is THAT suspicious…

Double post :'(

High5 Banana and Strawberry works for me – so sickly and sweet you’re pretty distracted from the general ickiness of gels in general…

No 892. Only doing 50km but taking the new, yet-to-be-delivered Singlespeed…

I run CBs – at the Bristol Bike Jumble I can usually pick up endless pairs of OEM Candys and Acids with new cleats for next to nothing. Which is a good thing because the cleats are made of cheese and so are the bearings. I’ve not had any spectacular failures though but that’s normally because I’ve picked up yet another pair and replace them as soon as they get a bit crappy.

I’m going back to Shimano though as the one thing that bugs me is not being able to swap bikes with your mates who are all on Shimanos!

I think if CB could sort the cleat life and reliability, they would actually be the best system – they’re less direct in their initial clip in and out but when you’re in they feel the most fluid and natural in terms of float.