Black forks always look meh!

With the state of North Somerset’s roads, road cycling.

Anyway, technically thats ^^^^ a clockwork as it’s made from steel.

Naaaah, they’re aluminium too now!

Huh? Oh wait, I get it now. That’s clever, is it because they’re made from folded aluminium by a factory that was doing filing cabinets at the time?

They’re are silver not white but know what you mean. I chose mine based on the frame only photo on the Orange website.

Bit out of date now as it’s got Hope 1×10 setup on there, 740mm carbon bar and 50mm stem. Yes the next blog is coming, nearly finished it last night. Technically the Hans Dampf doesn’t fit as it fouls the front mech cable stop ever so slightly, 2.25 Nobby Nic on the way.

Neon Green

and by extension you could take PED’s, buying performance rather than earning it…

You really don’t get the doping thing at all do you? It’s bad for your health and the effects aren’t equal or guaranteed in everyone that does it. Last I checked, 29ers might not be cool with kids still but that’s about as detrimental to your health as it gets, and that 2mph is arguably the same for anyone that sits on it.

The test might be a bit outlandish and a bogus claim, but comparing it to PEDs is a bit daft.

24-105L is a superb lens in terms of quality and it’s a useful kit lens length (it’s the 5D kit lens with good reason). If you like doing big landscapes you might find it a bit limiting on a cropped sensor.

By all accounts the 18-135mm is worlds away from the 24-105 in quality, so you need to be really honest with yourself about how much you need the wider end.

Northwind, I did my best skim reading and everything! They’re not manky though, carob topped original ones are lovely!

Can’t believe no mention of 9bars yet, they’re great even if you don’t need gluten free!

Whole bike from shop, frame only if you’re doing the build at home. From a value perspective anyway. I’d run full Deore and throw everything at the wheels on a home build if it was me and money was a consideration.

Fantastic bike btw!

Ace!

2.5 year old here who finds his Rothan a bit too heavy still, chomping at the bit but especially keen/aware to not force it on him.

Great thread!

Yes if converting, probably nothing saved. However, going tubeless on an already tubeless ready wheelset saw me lose 300g for the inner tubes and only put back about 100g of sealant and 50g of valves in total.

That said, there might be a few grams in running a little fabric rim strip vs the tubeless rim tape but it’s not much.

Ta, was planning on getting one of those…

Tallboy LTc, Fox 34s, ENVE and XXI

Nutritionist diagnosed me with Magnesium deficiency and it seemed to sort it once he got me on a supplement…

Roverpig: yeah, next writeup is coming dammit!

crush83: 30mm of travel, about 3 degrees in the head angle and 2-3lb all up bike weight, among other things.

Sounds like it might be ideal… I’ve got one with light all mountain wheels (1750g), Hope 1×10, DOSS dropper and with a Hans Dampf up front and a Ralph 2.25 out back, it’s 28lb 13oz with pedals. XC race wheels, normal post and a Ralph up front should see 26 8oz even.

Very versatile and much more nimble than it’s long swingarm would suggest. More here: http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/blog/longtermer-orange-gyro-pro-2.htm

A stock medium Pro with pedals does come in at nearly 31lb though but it’s nearly all in the wheels…

I almost plumped for the 40mm pancake but reports of terrible focus ring put me off in the end. Shame as I hear the image quality is amazing for the money.

Hmmmm, watch on vimeo for HD obviously :-S

In terms of being compact, I tend to just leave a 50 1.8 prime on there if I’m riding and filming, sometimes I’ll lug around the 10-22 if I think the scenery is worth it.

550D (and thus 600D and 650D) just about hold up to scrutiny against a 5D2 as long as you dont’ start bashing high ISO settings – so outdoors, there’s not a lot in it.

This was shot on a Canon 5D, Sony FS700 and a 550D – all riding footage that is tripod mounted is 550D but it blends in with the 5D and FS700 reasonably well, and bare in mind that’s been compressed more than needed as I needed a quick upload:

This is all 550D and again, more compressed than it needed to be:

Trail centres are what keep me off of road bikes tbh!

Absolutely love them, it’s like going to the gym for mountain biking. I’ve done Barnstable to Bristol and the WC2C, so I’m just as happy doing natural too.

Your local trails that good are they? :wink:

I enjoyed that. Now I’m off riding, in the rain, on my bike

Yet ironically you were still here according to your thread history… :wink:

Bookmarking on iphone app innit

Shame about the ST4 as it was a real ripper, didn’t make sense alongside the Five to most punters I guess, but in riding it did.

Gyro isn’t an ST4 replacement officially, but the ST4 essentially ‘made way’ for the Gyro.

It’s interesting that with almost every other lights topic people always end up going on that Exposure are just overpriced torches, and that money’s better spent elsewhere.

Here, almost universally, there’s advocation for Exposure.

I think that’s the difference between once a week night riding in the woods vs racing regularly or expedition riding.

For a bit of balance, I think the Light & Motion Seca 1400 is technically a better light that the Six Pack. It has less power but the quality and shape of the optics means there’s better light on the trail. If you’re happy to have a cable going into your hydration pack, the head unit lighter than a Diablo and much brighter (for very fast technical riding the Seca on your head is superb). Being able to stash the battery (the heavy bit) on the frame is always good too.

But cables on lights are a faff and pain when racing.

Why would a 140mm travel bike with a 66.6 degree HA that builds up to almost 33lb signal the demise of a 110mm bike with a 69 degree HA bike that builds up to 30lb?

The Alpine didn’t signal the demise of the Five? Trek’s Fuel EX wasn’t killed off by the Remedy, The Enduro and Stumpjumber coexist just fine…

Exposure is the way to go just to get rid of the battery packs and faff.

Diablo plus piggy back on medium should last the night and a six pack on medium should last the night, plenty of light for solo pace too.

When I did a 24 solo, I had the benefit of being crewed by Rob Lee and had full access to his kitty of lights. I was blowing through Six Packs and Diablos on full power – nice luxury but getting on for a couple of grands worth of lights! 8O

Did the WC2C on Exposure lights, Six Packs and Diablos with Piggy Backs, fitted and didn’t touch them except to turn them off in the morning (and on again the following evening when a 36 hr finish was on the cards :oops:)

Hmmmm…

Braap! ;)

Roverpig: I saw no specific mention in your OP of tyres so wanted to check…

Tyres…

A 28lb bike with small block 8s is going to be much quicker than a 24lb bike with super tacky minions… Like wise, a reasonably burly All Mountain bike with DH tyres is going to be quicker than a DH bike with XC tyres (on a DH course).

Extreme and silly examples but I find tyres the single most transformational thing on a bike. I wouldn’t read anything into times without running like for like tyres.

People take the piss out of MBR for using control tyres in their BOTY tests but I always thought it gave the tests a bit of credibility tbh!

Yorkshire Decaf, the only decaf that actually tastes like real tea!

Aside from Twinings everyday decaf but have you seen how much that is a box?!!

James: this is only a massive prelim maybe, but I’m tempted to give this a go so prob worth a chat. Got the green light for you staying in Bristol too so just need to figure out when…

Same on 2013 Gyro, got the volume spacer but haven’t fitted it yet.

Mine doesn’t sound as bad as the OPs though.

A professional in every sense of the word!

(On the pitch anyway)

Diesels not affected by wetness like old petrol cars used to. And modern petrols should not be lumpy in the wet anyway, this isn’t the 1970s

Of course you’d think! But I did read some stuff online that the C-Max diesels don’t like getting too wet…

Man, what a POS…

Renton, interestingly, we did have it running like a lumpy bag of poo over the winter but I put it down to being so wet…?

I can image if the airflow metre is screwed, it would go into limp home mode which is exactly what it currently feels like?

Right, I think we have a resolution! Well, mechanic to wife to husband translation anyway.

Two things disel vacuum pump needs replacing. Which is fair enough as a local garage cleaned and bodged it two years ago claiming it would do us ‘a few months at best’.

Otherthing is Mass Air Flow something, I’m assuming sensor from a bit of googling. Anyway, reckon it’ll be fixed tomorrow and could have been worse based on my OP…

Seems a bit steep at £400 including the diagnostics, but we’ve been let down by two independents now so sod it…