Although I would say the Gyro rides just like a Five in that it’s a swingarmed, single pivot bike that’s a shed load of fun.

No one makes a 29er that rides like a 26er. Is that not the point? They’ll always be different. And I did just say the limiting facotr would the 36mm stanchion forks, which is the fork maker not Orange.

Gyro was an ST4 replacement loosely, or rather it signalled the death of the ST4 in the lineup anyway. Gyro LT will be a bike in it’s own right.Tallboy LT hasn’t replaced the Tallboy for equally obvious reasons. Tallboy LT doesn’t ride like a Blur LT for equally obvious reasons.

Not quite, the Gyro’s swingarm is not as hefty as the the Five’s… and the big wheels only compensate when you’re actually on the ground ploughing through stuff. Drop to flat and 110mm is 110mm regardless of wheel size.

I think there’s going to be some overlap. Gyro – Five – Gyro LT – Alpine 160

There’s no 36mm 29er forks which is going to be the big factor. Gyro LT with 34s will prob come close though.

I’ve had a car park pedal on Tom from Mojo’s proto. It’s much more ‘built’ than the Gyro in the Swingarm and heavier – his was as light as my Gyro but he had carbon wheels, full XO, gripshift, 1×10. I think it’s 140mm at the back so it’s a lot more travel and it’s a lot more slacker. It is going to be heavier. It’s going to be a lot of bike.

I wouldn’t get too hung up on stays length, it’s the new headangle when it comes to obsessive bike geometry disorder. I’ve ridden the Whyte M-109 with it’s super short stays and it was nice. But then I have a Gyro and it’s also really nice. Conclusion, don’t judge a bike on a single figure in the geo table.

You won’t be waiting long, I hear they’re taking preorders on the LT Gyro shortly.

The Gyro is very much Rumblefish territory, or slightly burlier than a 120mm forked Tallboy…

50 1.8 is great if you treat it like a 2.8…

Primes might be an option but you lose all flexibility.

50 1.4 and 100 2.8 Macro would do it justice but by the time you’ve bought both of those, you could fund a 24-105 f4 L…

24-105 f4 L is a nice walkaround that won’t break the bank (relatively speaking seeing as we’re talking about a 1D here)

Beginning of the End – Coed-y-Brenin: http://app.strava.com/segments/1104347

Because I dropped my chain near the top and had a foot come unclipped right and the end, and still got it. And because I’m not a local either :)

Dodgy accounts building up feedback for the proper scams?

#Expertsexchange – I remember typing the web address at uni and forgetting (honest gov!) the hyphen. Was auto logged out and security came to try and escort me off the premises.

I had to admit to judging the trailers for the first series with total scorn, and then pissing myself laughing pretty much all the way through it.

No big bang theory though.

Another thing is I’d say the weight of a tyre is probably less important than how fast rolling it is (on the rear). I’ve had heavier tyres feel quicker than lighter ones due entirely to the tred pattern.

But yeah aside from that, if you can’t compromise on dual ply tyres then I think any weight saving you do manage will be utter and totally marginalised by those tyres anyway.

Any chance of a picture so we can start pulling the spec apart for where the weight might be… Even my Orange Gyro with dropper and Hans Dampfs (tubed), bash, etc is comfortably lighter than your Ariel.

Either that or the Bathroom scales method is so way off that it’s giving you a huge false reading.

My Five at 28lbs is 32 Floats, x9, American Classic All Mountains with Kenda Blue Groove/Small Block 8 combo in 2.1. Not very burly and about as light as it’s going to go without throwing silly money and marginal gains at it.

As soon as I put something like High Rollers on with a dropper post, it’s going to hit 31lb easy. I think the Five frame is a fair bit lighter than the Ariel so I don’t think you’re too far out.

Depends on the build so need more details. I’ve got a Five that’s currently 28.5lbs but has been 32lb before, and more so because of the configuration rather than it being a case of pimp kit or not pimp kit.

Yeah but is that “press the lever and hover down a little bit so that it doesn’t go all the way down” interim?

How many times in a ride do you need to drop your saddle?

Not wanting to get into a discussion on the DOSS and price etc etc, but their remote being run under bars (in place of the front shifter on a 1-by or with a LH gripshift) with the interrim drop means I’m using it a lot on fairly routine singletrack descents. I figure a Reverb could be run this way too but I’d miss the interim drop on a separate lever…

Testing a Fox DOSS at the moment. Interestingly, it’s the separate 40mm drop lever that’s getting the most use. Having a foolproof interim drop is so useful for those less steep trails that still have a features where a quick, small drop is nice…

I understand the Gravity Droppers have this as an option too, not sure how it works with the lever but it’s definitely an option I’d always consider.

Money no object and for a total faff free experience, hard to beat a Six Pack and a Diablo.

I actually think the L&M Seca 1400 is a better light than the Six Pack but once you go self contained, it’s hard to go back.

Or yeah, to nant and back :)

What about parking at Nanty, ride down to Aberystwyth (all downhill and then flat), train to Machynlleth and then ride back to Nanty…

55km I think including the road ride to Abers and getting out of Machynlleth.

Sorry to plug an ebay item but I’ve got a 456 Summer Season ending Friday night: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190753912865?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Hehe, I was going to sit this year out and see how many people died the first time before I tried it ;)

Poor sod!

alpin: he was referencing someone elses On-One build thread.

Looks like an Orange crest on the box at a guess…

I was expecting a thread about super market bikes, it tell you something about this sport when £700 is considered cheap.

Price of entry to similar ‘lifestyle’ sports is usually same or higher, so not bad really is it? Wind/Kite Surfing easily £1000 minimum to get started if you buy new. Snowboarding skiing isn’t cheap either.

I started out on a rigid, canti-braked Kona Fire Mountain in ’95 for what I seem to remember being about £500. Inflation adjusted that’s £750 and you’d get a suss fork that works and disc brakes. Where’s the problem?

Pretty much…

120mm 29er FS seems to be my “quiver killer” at the moment. I’m not saying they do everything well but if I literally could only have one bike, I reckon that’s what would do it for me.

Two years ago I’d have said 140mm 26er FS…

That said I don’t know how you can have trouble misshifting with xtr either like Mr lopes

If you’re shredding the gnar big time :wink: it’s perfectly possible to press the shifter all the way and drop two gears instead of one… SLX doesn’t have multi-release so you can only ever shift one gear.

Whyte M-109 S
Superfly 100
Tallboy (weight might be a deal breaker unless you can afford carbon one)

All are very good. Tallboy the most ploughy, straightline and tough, Superfly the tidiest and a really nice mile muncher but still sorted trail manners, the Whyte somewhere in the middle but a lot fun and very lively if you can get the S model with Carbon wheels.

Haven’t really thought about running the right Gripshift tbh – it’s mainly Enduro I’m thinking of and it’s interesting that Brian Lopes for example downgrades to SLX shifters as he finds himself prone to accidental double shifts on the multirelease XT and XTR ones.

Just wondering if gripshift might be a good idea in terms of maintain proper grip on the bars while shifting.

Yep, superb!

Weight is what you’d expect for a 2.35 (and they’re pretty generous at that) and they roll quicker than they look (as long as you don’t put a trailstar on the back).

Sounds cool, I was going to run a stubby grip with it, something I’m willing to compromise on if this works out. I am in fact a one finger braker too so should be fine.

Cheers!

You’re both wrong, it’s so I can run a dropper post remote under the bars where the LH trigger shifter would be. I’m running 2×10 on a more winch and plumet bike, so front shifting performance is not really an issue as I’m in the bigger ring 90% of the time.

Decent access to the the dropper remote however, is more of a concern.

Anyway, because Shimano 9-speed LH shifters work with shimano 10 speed front mechs, and SRAM and Shimano 9-speed were always compatible in terms of front mechs, I assume a 9-speed LH gripshifter would work too? Not looking to buy the new 10-speed specific SRAM stuff as I suspect it won’t be compatible.

Only tried Bontrager juice with Bontrager tyres on Bontrager rims with Bontrager rim strips. As a system it’s bloody brilliant going up with a track pump with brand new tyres, no stretching them out with a tube either.

Bontrager stuff doesn’t seem as prone to drying out either and is easier to get off tyres when changing them.

Nice rage bar for the workshop?

Is the Rumblefish your only bike? I’d hate to put anything XC and mud specific on a bike like that…

Are the other posters even looking at the bike this is for?

Stanchion size would be a deal breaker for me on an Alpine 160…

On that bike, Hans Dampfs…

If you’re considering Smoke and Dart (you shoudn’t be as things have moved on a lot), you probably should have bought a Superfly anyway.

Edit no 29er Smoke and Dart anyway as far as I can see…