Have had one for 8 years or so, still in continuous use. You’ve got the upper tube extended too far, push it back in a little. Also make sure you have spring-loaded button locked into the hole on the sleeve with the legs attached. If it’s not then this can amplify the leaning.

Dangled all sorts of bikes of it and never had an issue with weight.

Tip- don’t power wash your bike whilst it’s in the stand as the water runs down and rusts the inside of the sleeve and the lower tube making it very difficult to unfold and fold.

Always found Cervelo a bit overhyped/overpriced but yeah, that geo is spot on. Hopefully more manufacturers will start producing 50-60mm offset forks for all-road type bikes.

I haven’t tried them but Wolftooth rings seem popular. M970 has an outer/middle BCD of 104.

I’ve got a few old UN72’s in the garage. Some are threaded on the driveside body and some have a push on threaded cap. So you’re both right/wrong.

Think I remember the early sealed Shimano BBs being a cart contained and centred by two threaded caps.

especially with companies making metal tools to tighten this cap

Yeah that’s pretty stupid.

*Just for the record, I never pressure wash my bike.

Old square taper BB’s weren’t even threaded, they sat in the frame and two slightly wedge shaped threaded cups went in either side to hold it.

I think he’s referring to the original Shimano BB cartridges from the 90s- with the cup centering the cartridge in the frame.

10mm is a little OTT for sure. My three bikes have between 5 and 6.

Single speed narrow Q setups don’t matter as you’re not likely to suffer from a dropped chain.

I think they measure from the drive side cup. Do you know the correct chainline of the drive train/crankset you’re using? sticking spacers on the drive side would effect this.

Depends on what width chain you’re running- wider 8 speed chains could get stuck if you drop your chain. 7mm should cover all bases. Some frames I’ve owned in the past have only had 4mm clearance. Shimano actually recommend 10mm in the Frame Requirements book.

Frames were out of alignment, which was never an issue before HT2, but suddenly was.

That’s to do with the BB shell face being perfectly square with the threaded shell body. With old, self contained cartridge type BBs this didn’t matter so much. Maybe Shimano Hollotech IIs have lower tolerances to compensate for this.

2004 called, they want their rant back.[/quote

For sure but no ones really come up with a viable explanation as to why they don’t do something about making them last.

Thought they were impossible to over-tighten as they’ve sat in cups separated from the threaded part. Not sure how you’d apply enough torque with the plastic crank installation tool or find anything with decent enough purchase.

Before fitting new ones ,I now take them apart and pack with marine grease.
Get 2-3 years out of them ,and a lot,lot longer on the road bike sets.

Sounds good Fasthaggis. How do you disassemble them, is it something that can be done with readily available tools? I’ve read online that the bearings are a non-standard size so I suspect the 2x pairs Ive got that need replacing are goners.

Swings & roundabouts really. I do find the smooth feel and quicker action of XTR nice on really steep climbs- basically change gear with little discernible feedback. . That said, I also like the positive click of my Alvino mech and 8 speed downtube shifters on my commuter…

My Tubus rack’s lower stays are widely spaced to fit over awkward dropouts- you can fit spacers and longer bolts to clear awkward dropout designs disk brakes. I fitted it to my Surly KM Ops without any issues.

From the photos I’ve seen of Axiom Streamliner Disc, it’s basically a conventional rack with long arms supplied to clear the dropout / disc brake and have the rack sat further back for heel clearance on bikes with short chainstays.

There’s quite a few photos online of people’s Streamliner installs. Do a Google image search and see what you think.

I rode flats both on my commuter and on my off road bikes for a few months and found that my riding position changed- my feet were positioned further forward to find a comfortable spot to rest on the flats I was using. Found I was sitting further back with the saddle slightly lower and my legs stretched forward. My feet gravitated forward in the pedal to find comfortable spot- it wasn’t a conscious decision. Wasn’t ideal TBH, definitely enjoying using SPDs again.

I’ve stopped thinking of cyclists and motorists as separate groups. These days I think in terms of good road users and idiots.

Nice work. Looking forward to seeing it progress.

I remember Kona bikes suspension bikes getting poor mag reviews in the very late 90s / early 00s when they opted for a ‘faux 4-bar’ type design rather than a standard single pivot or paying Specialized to use a Horst link or developing their own. I saw a vid of Jacob Heilbron getting pretty angry about what the bike mags were writing about non 4-bar bikes. They’d nailed the xc hardtail in the early 90s but seemed to loose their way towards the end of the decade. They also seemed to change their logo and branding every year, which is never good; usually a signifier of a company having problems.

Drops off-road are excellent, especially combined with monster cross or 29er tyres.

Soma Wolverine. Tange Concept tubing so may be lighter than the straight 4130 Staggler/Cross Check. It’s 650b so has pretty good tyre clearances.

Oh.

Having 30 men in riot gear staring at you is provocation/intimidation. Someone was bound throw something at some point. Oh, I forgot to mention they had police dogs too.

Might want to get along to one and actually witness what goes on. Seriously, I’ve done it a few times as a purely objective bystander at some of the big London anti-capitalist demos.
Police will incite, once control/containment is established, and snatch those who retaliate. Valid? Perhaps.
I’d also expect disinformation spread across social and media outlets.

+1

Really? It’s not that I don’t believe you; it’s just that the British police (while not perfect) have a pretty good reputation for deploying ‘soft power’ in a similar way to Canadian police (also not perfect).

The idea that ‘intimidation and provocation were commonplace’ just doesn’t really jive with that.

Then, maybe I’m just being really naive.

Was in a pub in Hackney after the 94′ Hackney Festival. Lots of revellers in there, the pub doing a roaring trade and zero signs of trouble. Then the police vans showed up, officers in full riot gear started to form a line on the street and just stood there biding their time… very intimidating. Then someone chucks a beer can at them so they wade in. Watching people getting hit over the head just for being in a pub isn’t something I want to witness again.

I’ve not seen details of the incident you’re talking about, and undoubtedly there are a fair few idiots out there, but don’t discount the possibility of agent provocateurs being used to discredit/undermine protests like this. There is a long and well-documented history of the security services doing exactly that.

+2. I’ve been on a few marches and attended free parties & raves in the early 90s that were perfectly peaceful and good natured until the police showed up. Police intimation and provocation were commonplace.

What da hell is Taechung Green?

It’s when you ask the factory for RAL 6038 but they send you RAL 9005 instead.

More CX, more drop bar off-road bikes.

I’m guessing B = Bomb and E = Explosion.

I thought similar to the O.P. “Likely that it broke up mid air” is the strongest language I’ve heard so far. Rare (and admirable) restraint from the UK media.

Haven’t used Premier in a while and didn’t toy with the audio settings much when I used it for editing. Maybe google “adobe premier noise reduction”?

1980 – Hand-me-down red girls bike with solid rubber tyres

1982 – S/H Raleigh Tomahawk

1984 – knackered S/H Raleigh Chopper

1988 – Townsend 27″ ‘racer’ that I smeared in Niromors then spray painted white. Fitted it with Suntour thumb shifters and Bullmoose handlebars.

1989 – Falcon Sierra – Hammerited it green and got my LBS to build me a wheel using a 3 speed hub taken off the Chopper (think pre-Rolholf all-weather bike).

1989 – Bianchi Avanti MTB. Hi-tensile steel at it’s finest.

1990 – Mongoose Iboc Pro. Bl**dy good bike actually.

1992 – Kona Kilauea frame that I built up using some of the parts from the dented and abused Mongoose.

1997 – Italian built Columbus steel + Campy road bike I bought off some mug for £70. Crashed it badly and ended in hospital. Karma.

2000 – Kona Cindercone

2002 – Santa Cruz Superlight.

2003 – On-One Pompino built up as a commuter

2004 – Intense Tracer. Discounted frameset. Bloody nice bike.

2006 – S/H Brompton for commuting on the train.

2009 – Cotic Soul.

2011 – A frameset so terrible I’d rather not talk about it. Never buying anything from those shysters ever again.

2013-Now – Surly 26″ LHT

2014-Now – Surly Karate Monkey Ops.

2016 – Litespeed T3 fitted with Ultegra everything inc. wheels.

2016 – Surly Cross Check.

Surly LHT Pub / off-road / tour / commute.

Beavers front & rear here. Great tyres for the money.

Not a tool idea but I’d love a helmet mount for my UtraFire light. Might be easy to 3d print a prototype to test then get mass produced. Maybe use the Exposure Joystick mount as a starting point.

They turn up on eBay from time to time. I sold mine for £6 after losing my Joystick.

I’d love an affordable, minimalist multitool with an 11-speed chain splitter that’s relatively lightweight and doesn’t have any stupid snap on/off parts that’ll get lost. Must come with a JIS screwdriver for adjusting Shimano gears.

Ritchey do long posts with 25mm setback. The Ritchey Comp has a version with those dimensions, it’s likely there’s a pricier model that fits the bill too.

Surlies are great bikes. I have two built up (a Cross Check & KM OPs) + a 26″ LHT frame waiting for bits. Really well made but are a tad heavy if you’re concerned about that sort of thing.

I use a cheap and abundant Chinese Ultrafire light on all three of my bikes. Works well after doing the slight mods shown here – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJpQAvum0bM

The brackets (though clunky looking) work well on handlebars but don’t work on helmets. If you can find a helmet bracket that takes a light with an external diameter of 25mm then that should work.

Corbyn is unelectable. His stance on many topics, whilst popular with the shouty left wingers, makes him unpalatable to majority of people that actually go to Polling Stations.

You’ve nailed the mindset of much of the UK.

Even though I’m left of centre, disagree with current Tory policy and will vote for Corbyn in the next GE, I can fully appreciate why people don’t like him.

I’ve had a Tubus Cosmo rack for 9 years. Not cheap(was £120 at the time) but it’s lasted- been on 4 different bikes and completed 3 long international tours. Also use it for commuting/shopping. Came with spacers to clear complicated dropout designs, also sits quite a way back for good heel clearance. They can be scored for £60ish now which makes them a bargain.