All good advice above regarding the grinder. I had one and it was incapable of producing an espresso grind, even after modifying. I’m now using a Eureka Mignon and couldn’t be happier with it.

One other thing to check is the pressure coming from the machine. As I recall, the Classic leaves the factory pumping around 13bar which enables it to be used with the coffee pods, but normal ground espresso is best made with 9-10bar. If you google it you’ll see how to reduce the pressure and various methods of measuring the pressure, but just make sure the machine is unplugged before you open it up and start tinkering.

96 Raleigh –

I’ve no idea with regards to the OP’s question but I would advise to shop around for a normal quote with driver A as the main driver and driver B named on the policy. I know that the Admiral group of companies offer a discount on the quote for the main driver as soon as a named driver is added to the policy, even when the named driver is a higher risk. It makes no sense to me but I’ve been using it to my advantage for the last 5 years… Here’s an example – When I was 35 with no claims etc and 17 years ncb I bought a Mitsubishi Evo. Best quote was from Admiral at £850. I then got a re-quote and added the Wife as a named driver, Wife 29 and having no ncb and yet to pass her driving test. I expected a quote for many thousands but it actually reduced my quote by about £20… Like I said, it makes no sense from a risk perspective but worth taking advantage of if you can.

If they are using a courier then fair enough but if they use RM/Parcelforce then its a flat rate for all of the UK and there’s no excuse for an extra charge. Any retailers or ebay sellers who do this are taking the piss and are to be avoided imho.

Genius. I now want a Whyte. And some crocodile teeth stickers… 8)

Good call. I have a build thread for each of my bikes on another site; Its a bit of a vanity exercise and it’s interesting to hear the comments of others but it should also come in handy for the insurance claim if the worst does happen…

I’ve just bought one of the Hubsan X4’s and wouldn’t really recommend it as a first heli. You could certainly do worse but it can be a twitchy little bastard and its definitely harder to fly around the living room than my E-Flite Blade MSR. You’d be better off starting with a contra rotating heli IMO. The Syma’s seem to get good reviews but are considered to be at the toy end of the spectrum – the Apollo brand of the rc heli world if you will. E-Flite on the other hand are more like Specialized or Trek; they make the best small heli’s you can buy in the sub £200 category and £27 will get you this – http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/BLH2700I.html. Notice how it has a swashplate on the rotor shaft to control forwards/backwards movement rather than a rotor on the tail; This also allows you to control left and right tilt (aileron) which is not possible with the Syma or similar helis and puts it into a different league than the stuff you’ll find in Tesco’s etc.

No Merlin’s yet?

Here’s my old one –

See that’s why I’ll never buy a carbon frame, the way it fails suddenly and snaps clean in half without warning. You’d never get that with a steel or alum………… Erm, hang on a minute….

I’m running Surly Nates on my 907. My usual loop starts with about four miles of road, mostly uphill which normally takes about 33-35 mins on my normal bikes. I timed the fat bike at 37 mins but it does feel slower….

Mojo SL Special Blend and £500 in your pocket?

http://www.titaniumarts.com/Mike_Augspurger.htm

Remember kids, guns don’t kill people, rappers do :wink:

And you knows it :lol:

If they’re minty/excellent condition then you could expect £40-£50 from that auction site.

I’d say go for the 750 but if its for road use only then you should seriously consider a litre bike. They are not that much faster than a 600 at full chat but the low down grunt makes them far more suitable for the roads.
I went from NC30> 03 636> 08 R6 and now a 08 R1. I thought the R6 was a good bike but you needed to thrash the tits of it to make it work. Totally gutless below 10.5k with a sorry excuse for a midrange starting at 8k. Unless you were riding it flat out it felt a bit pointless imho.
The R1 on the other hand has an engine which feels similsr to the V4 400 but with 3x the bhp. Open the throttle at 2k and it just shoves you forward getting stronger up to 7k where it ramps up and continues to 13k. Sometimes you don’t feel like riding at 100%, you just want to bimble along and make lazy overtakes without having to change down three gears. This is where 1000cc makes a far better road bike.
Riding a litre bike onto a m/way slip road in 4th gear at 30mph then pinning back the throttle until the shift light flashes is something every biker should experience, even if its only on a test ride :D

Worst – Red hot chili’s (again), Ulster hall Belfast in 92 or 93. In their defence, they had a few issues going on at the time and John Frusciante left the band a few weeks later but I saw them again at Phoenix park in Dublin 2004 and once again they were terrible. Never again.

Best – Has to be the Prodigy at Ibiza Rocks Hotel 2010. It was a warm up gig for their appearance at MK Bowl a few days later and they absolutley owned the place. I consider myself a very lucky boy to have been among the 800 or so people there that night. Other memorable gigs were Nirvana (Kings hall Belfast 92), Alice in Chains (Ulster hall Belfast 93) and a special mention goes to Machine Head when they supported Slayer in 94 and almost blew them off the stage.

1. Yes
2. Stif cycles
3. £65

I think I bought one of the last Mojo’s that didn’t have the Lopes link as standard (2009). I rode with the standard links for a while, thinking that the Lopes link might be a bit of a gimmick but when I eventually upgraded the rear end was noticeably stiffer. A very worthwhile mod imho.
There’s also a new lower link on the Ibis site which is supposedly 35% stiffer – http://store.ibiscycles.com/ibis-mojoslsl-r-lower-link-p30.aspx
:-)

Pace Ward seem to be the default choice over on the Evo forum. Maybe worth a try….

Square tubed goodness from that Yorkshire –

Ibis Mojo SL
Pace RC300
9:Zero:7 fatbike almost built.

Anything by Richard Cheese FTW –

:D

Under the stairs…..

If it’s just for getting from a to b with minimum fuss then buy a scooter.

If you’re into bikes and see a 125 as a stepping stone then forget about 125’s and do the direct access test.

I bought a RS125, had it derestricted after a month (only using it on closed roads occifer) and after 3 months had passed my test and traded it for a 400, taking a £400 hit on the trade in price on the Aprilia.

Re the cutting side of things….
I know a bloke at work who’s son was busted for intent to supply. When being sentenced, the judge told him one of the reasons he wasn’t getting a custodial was because the ‘cocaine’ was only 8% pure…..

That Elise is stunning :P . Love the colour and those are the wheels of choice on a S1. Is that a JDM engine with the extra BHP’s and slippy diff?

This is what gets me from A to B –

I’ve had it nearly three years now and recently been thinking of a change. The only problem is that performance wise there’s nothing for my 10-12k budget that will come close to it. I’m leaning towards a Clio 182 for 5k and spending the change on motorbikes….