Tick "none of your bloody business, ****-o"

if that's an option. If not, write it in

I *think* I know the answer to this one, I replaced the Hone crank on my commuter with an Alfine one recently

the tube that fits between them is a different length (road bb shells are shorter, mostly) but the cups appeared the same (although, indeed, perhaps the seals were different). I had to change the spacers aswell as the BB Axle length was different.

I have 32 TALAS and a 32 Vanilla 140

32 and 36 are the stanchion diameters, 32 will suffice for XC duties (some manufacturers, including older SIDs went to 28mm stanchion, but they are a bit noodly, SIDs are now 32)

so, 32 either Vanilla (coil spring), Float (air spring, a little lighter) or TALAS (adjustable travel, air sprung) depending on the frame your matching with and your weight weenie requirements. I really like the 140 Vanillas but for adjustable travel forks, you'll struggle to beat TALAS (not saying you can't … Revs are good for example)

Are they worth MSRP? Well, I wouldn't pay 700 quid for a fork but then you don't need to as online discounting is very keen, I got my TALAS for half price and the vanilla came with the bike

Downsides; some folks complain of early stanchion wear, I haven't experienced this. Some other folks complain that FOX ask you to clean and oil the top seals every 15 hours of riding, but they never seem to mention that RS require seal lubrication *every ride* on their maintenance schedule so 6 and half a dozen to me.

I like 'em but if I could get the equivalent RS for cheaper I wouldn't fret the decision (I have 2 SID teams aswell …. SUPERB XC fork)

ir_bandito

anyway, anodizing is a surface treatment to harden the aluminium and aslong as its polished up (ie remove any scratches), removing it won't affect the material properties.

Not correct, no idea where you got that from. RaveyDavey is right, it's not a surface treatment (like paint) but a controlled corrosion process…. and hardening, while it may be a side effect, is not the main aim of anodising(edit/ I take that back having just looked it up, surface hardness is increased, but only in such a way as to increase wear resistance), it's a corrosion resistant aesthetic finish, not a hardening process.

Take care, I would not be attacking aluminium parts with chemicals especially something like a handlebar. As suggested, go to a finisher for advice or leave well alone

but it's clear that

a/ you're doing it on the cheap, and
b/ you've already started

so frankly you're on your own, sorry but I think you already ruined your h-bars.

No Brake fixie -20

assume you meant +20 for that or are you suggesting giving no brake fixie riders credit for keeping it pure (dude) … and being bonkers ofc

Suggestions;

Frame Material; Carbon +1
bike frame or major parts with no UK/european distributor +5
Custom finish +5

that is also what I recall hearing / reading (that they shouldn't take payment until they have allocated stock) but tbh don't know and for furniture, it could be fabrication time that is the 8-12 weeks (rather typical for a sofa, for example) so could be argued that the stock has been allocated, but they still need to build it up.

look up distance selling regs (someone will post a link in a minute, no doubt) that may cover it.

I-beam is notorious for breaking though!

had mine for a year with no worries. Like I said though, it's on a singlespeed so I don't spend hours in it, more like minutes sweating over it! I don't know anyone else who uses an I-beam seatpost though, so could be I've just been lucky / etc

I have the Kore carbon I-beam post and a SDG I-fly saddle on my weight weenie bike. can't recall exact weight, but it was the lightest combo I could find at the time. works great for me, although long spells in the saddle could get a bit tiring, it's a hard saddle. No problem on my SS though, mostly it's ridden out of the saddle anyway

I loved my Pike when I had it but looking at the development of this fork (or lack thereof) over recent years, I'm fairly confident they're going to drop it in the next year or so.

I changed mine for a TALAS 32 a couple of months back. 800gr was the difference, which is rather a lot

I'd go for a revelation or a TALAS personally. Vanilla if you don't mind fixed travel

wasn't aware of any rusting problems. They have a 5 year warranty though (although no idea how firmly they stand behind it). Hope they don't have issues, they're not cheap and I have one on the way to me atm

for low stack, look at the FSA or Cane Creek sites, they have masses of different varieties of headset. Cane Creek having invented the Aheadset, if they don't make it the chances are no-one does.

Beltdrive, whats the advantage over chains?

I'm going to guess lighter and lubrication (ie maintenance) free

Hire a box van for the day and share driving duties is a very flexible route to go, although you can have insurance issues. Another way is hire a van for the day, everyone pitch in costs plus a tenner then one or two of you volunteer driving duties for that day. Next time out someone else does it.

or find a sympathetic SO 😉

but if you really want to put the effort into fixed infrastructure and the run is worth it then sure, why not

yes it is normal (the looking backwards constantly bit not the wobbly bike)

my bikes go in my car. They're worth more than it is so it makes a nice lock-box

bugger, you're right

Also, I only took PI to 2 decimal places

fek, I'm going to the special hell reserved for over assuming mathematicians 😆

if he moved to my neighbourhood, I would keep all my bikes away from that perv

(gear ratio)*(wheel dia)*PI*RPM*60/(inches in a mile)

so, at 80 RPM; (46/17*27*PI*80*60)/63360 = 17.2 mph

at 100 RPM; 17.2 *100/80 = 21.5 mph

I believe

some one's old crusties? you must be joking

*always* buy new boxxers

😛

sounds like a red rag to a bull

you can swap out the cartridge bearings in HT2 BB cups which is cheaper than buying new units (although I've never bothered) but if they're shot they're shot, I've never heard of reconditioning them (successfully)

hrmph. If you'd been quicker (like 18 months quicker) I'd have one of those rather than a Road Rat now

alfine compatible; check
Disk compatible; check
braze-ons for rack and guards; check

and the rear disc loc is better than a trad one for rack and guard fitting

Ho Hum, better late than never I guess 😉

discs on a touring / commuter bike are great. very little maintenance (esp when commuting and only cleaning the bike once every 6 months) predictable breaking in all conditions, plenty of modulation (so no instant on locking up, at least not with 34s on) and loads of power when fully loaded touring. Only downside I've found (aside from fitting a rack, which on-one have thought their way around) is that discs on a road bike make it quite conspicuous.

I like it (and I rather like at least one or 2 of the new decal options for the 456 aswell … for my sins!)

fausto coppi ? who said somehting like "the only way to get fast is to ride bikes"

Merckx said something similar

when asked for his training secret he said "ride a bike … lots" although probably in dutch

was it Eddy Merckx who said "gears are OK, for older guys"…? 😉

I ride both SS and geared. I agree that if you live in a very hilly area then being a beginner on SS is a totally dispiriting and painful experience. I am fortunate in that I live in a very varied landscape. My local forest is maximum single climb of about 50 vertical meters but I can drive an hour and a half and point my self up 200-300 of vertical climb … and everything in between.

as for SS fruitcakes stalling in front of geared riders, more often I see the opposite; geared riders in a low gear hole weaving at walking pace up the hill while the SSer tries to maintain cadence and get past. Hey, it all happens, anyone would think we should be sharing the trail

… or could you just buy a replacement dropout? From what you say I assume it's part of the frame that is goosed rather than a bolt on component.

if short on budget, 1×1 or inbred sounds like the go

good luck. You're mad but mad is good in so many ways!

annoy people who don't see the point in them

^this and therefore worth every penny 😀

the "being a bit lighter" is nice too

Only downside to the Fox might be the 15hr wiper seal clean

[broken record]
^it's every ride for RS forks so I don't see why people rag Fox
[/broken record]

I'd go with Van 36. TALAS is a great fork but the van is a mite plusher and a whole lot simpler

I find turn by turn directions a bit pants for MTBing so all I wanted was to see the route trace on the map so I could follow it. In the end this is the way I found to do it (from memory so forgive me if I get some details wrong);

I don't use any of the course stuff (.tcx, .crs), I convert to .GPX files using this software[/url] and then copy/paste to the Garmin. Shows up in "saved rides". Select the ride you want to follow and (iirc) click the "map setup" button. You can then choose to display the route on your background map in a number of colours. Chose a colour, click "show on map" and back out of the menu system to the map view. Voila, your route is marked on your map in red/yellow/whatever colour) for you to follow

monksie

The Postman has delivered a summons to attend court, in person. It has been suggested to him that he could go to prison for this (he wouldn't though, would he?). He's close to tears :-}

really doubt he'll go to prison, short ban or large fine more like, what are they charging him with? Driving without due care I expect

as for response, I'd shrug, imitate his accent and say "it's one ov those fings, innit?" and walk off whistling

pretty good when the rims are clean.

about sums it up for me. Given that most mountainbikers (well, northern europeans at least) ride in some mud and wet, rims are rarely clean and vs don't tend to apply enough pressure to clean them. Hydro stops do but then you're chucking away the weight advantage of Vs.

We were discussing disc brakes last night after our ride and I came to the conclusion that I'd sooner give up suspension than disc brakes. close call though.

Ridley are rubbish; 8 out of 10 CX champions say so.

^ what they say. I have van 32s and '10 TALAS 32. the TALAS is a little more hesitant on small stuff, but the judgement is relative, by that I mean it's judging against possibly the best small bump action fork on the market and certainly the best one I've ridden, the Fox Van

if you want travel adjust and can afford the price / can find a deal, I would go for the TALAS

I must say I wasn't too impressed with jen's site when I first saw it posted a week or so ago, but that litespeed badge looks very well done

+1 for Clint

no one mentioned the Duke yet?

Kingsley in Sexy Beast is quite the turn

she was just panicked and worried about her kids. wouldn't worry about it if I were you, nor would I hold it against her. Certainly, if you were able to stop to talk to her then you had your speed well under control so you've nowt to worry about.

I know mountainbike trails, especially the made ones in trail centres, often tempt and egg us on to go faster and faster (how many times have I had the red mist descending from White's level?) but it's worth remembering that anyone could be on the trail around that corner still collecting themselves having fallen off. Beware of blind corners! Sometimes it's best to scrub a bit of speed running upto a blind corner, you never know what could be on the other side

/edit and SFB; 10 years ago my wife's aunt fell off her bike (aged 68….) and broke her leg. two kids stopped to look and one of them passed out at the sight of the compound fracture and fell …. guess where. 4 breaks in the lower leg and a halo needed …. she missed our wedding but was able to see the funny side by the time we visited her in hospital. Bloody kids!

actually I heard they make SRAM ones 😆

I use KMC chains for SS applications, would have no qualms using them for geared but as it happens I don't atm

NICE!!

you had me hooked until I saw this

The price does not include flights, sports massage therapy or bottled/canned beverages.

a faazand quid and no beer? ymbjm 😉 😆

I would be sorely tempted but I'm off to NZ in late october and think that 2 trips that month might be a bit much. I'd happily sign up for next year but I have a project executing through october 🙁

Looks superb, I shall post the link on our club site, I expect there may be some takers from here

fixie DH … more niche than thou 😀

for CX bike, I'd definitely look up Nashbar

[patronising]

remember for your CX bike you'll need canti studs in the correct position, neither of the forks I have are for 700c, although either would take a CX wheel with disc as well as accommodating mudguards

[/patronising]

The Nashbar fork is available in both 26" and 700c flavours and is afaik identical to the winwood CX fork, but for less $$$. Sadly last I checked Nashbar won't ship direct to Europe so you would need to have a friend in NA to transship it for you, although that was 2 years ago so perhaps they've "modernised" their policy since then. I have the 26" version of the fork and it's a superb solution for a lightweight non sus corrected rigid MTB fork

alu granny vs steel granny – yes I have suffered. The alu granny get's ridges on it as it wears and this can catch the chain. Steel one will outlast the crank, I expect

middle ring … I've not noticed

struggling with the logic of the sticker statement….

…. if you weren't riding a DH bike you'd be on a fixie?

😉

depends on the type of wedge, some have a larger allenkey socket that can be loosened to release the wedge.

I think what Hora means is Orange will charge what the market will bear

I do not expect that labour in (south) korea is cheap. South Korea is one of the most developed and technologically advanced nations on the planet, only labour laws may be lagging "behind" (a relative term depending on how "ahead" you consider European labour law) which could give rise to a difference, but not a massive one. I think you're thinking of China and Taiwan where the labour rates are not of the same order of magnitude as UK rates