Jonny I have 2 light Weight Duel tensions for sale.
A heim 2 and a e13 ds (new bearing and roller just installed) both are iscg 05.
Also have a hope 36t bash in black.
Mail me if you want for photos etc

Bit more digging around found it.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-fc-7600-m760-m960-hollowtech-ii-axle-ring-1f3-1600-each-prod24989/?geoc=us

i have some threaded bar and a few home made bearing pullers. hehe

Hora.
remove the free hub and the None drive side and drive side bearings are easy.

The three in the freehub are a different matter (a b!tch to remove if i’m honest).

here you go mate..
a idiots guide.. :wink: luvs ya really.
http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/maintenance/hope-pro-ii-rear-hub-service.htm

True Jagwire are pretty big.

sorry pete do i need to flag my [SARCASM] [/SARCASM] sections to make it more obvious for you.. :D

CRC they are in the sale atm..

No mudguards either.
plus what tyres would you fit?

thats from my post below.
I was going to link that photo when i saw it but i had issues with the hub…. i.e. missing spoke hole.

http://www.merlincycles.com/race-face-next-sl-3-4-riser-bar-52873.htmlRace Face next

Flow.
My Partner has flow on CK.
ridden BPW and a few others and they are pretty tough.
The build came loose once and no damage to the rim.

Glad your happy….

Hippy how could you, can’t do that!!!
I need to buy some overpriced POS to cover it.

I’ll tape you up when is see you over Kinver!!!! :)

thats the thing but really… £14….. sessshh

Donk.
i know it’s faffy but i have a red frame and it would leave a silver mount plate on show.

The 140mm 26″ aren’t listed so don’t exist

Read the bloody post he clearly said a 140 26″ isn’t avaliable but he can machine a 150 down to 140.

run Magic marys in the winter / aut and High Rollers spring/summer

I’ve pinched quite a few none UST tyres. (HR’s mostly)
I have UST HR 2 and UST Magic Mary’s are run them sill low (Marys down to 20psi). Since going to Stans and UST tyres i’ve not pinched once.

I personally feel they do have stronger sidewalls on UST tyres then none UST.

My brother has pulled over 18 thorns out of a HR UST

It’s meant to be like this.
The fork has a strong neg spring action to allow it to have an easy break away when force is applied.
There is a very strong wavy spring under the air damper the prevents this negative effect creating a knock inside the forks.
My 160 Pike sit about 7mm from 160mm when resting 153mm of station showing and this drops to 4-3mm if I pick the front wheel into the air.
I suspect the remaining 3mm is the thickness of the wavy spring washer.

missed the spoon comment TBH.

Ditto. It’s meant to change the point the pads contact the rotor.
I’ve run hopes previously and the bite point adjuster worked well.
On my shimano I think it’s there to add to the spec sheet but does f3ck all.
I know your to screw it out when bleeding the brakes and it “should” mean you can shorten the stoke on the lever bit ill be buggered if it actually does that…

It’s a thinner cable.
You can use the inner from a snakeskin or mud lovers gear cable set if your pushed to find one.

Charge spoon

Hi bike were selling them super cheap

Mudhugger.

as above, protect your frame with the supplied tape.
I also put amalgimating tape over this (like bike innertubes) then mounted the mudhugger on this to prevent it cutting into my Carbon frame.

looks “unsexy” on the bike but hell with that as once the mud starts flying you’ll be the cleanest guy in the group.

I’ve tested other mudguards and nothing comes close to mudhuggers.
Having met the guy too i wish him all the best, he’s a nice chap.

Hope hoops with stans.
I’ve just swapped from Hope / Mavic combo.
The Mavic were harder to inflate tubeless(821’s) weighed more with the extra threaded nipple design and weren’t as wide as the Stans.

I can feel the weight/stiffness difference but I’m also putting that down what I think is a better wheel build (Sapim cx spokes now and had cheaper DT ones before).

Either way i’ll not be going back to Mavic rims again, while they were tough they were heavier.

Smudge at Mtb batteries.
They are top top battery’s that last longer than they should. V pleased.

Nibby.
My GF and I have SC bikes.
I have had a few SC frames over my time.

I have recently sold my SC Blur LT for a Blur LTC.
This was due to me riding my GF Bronson C.

The Carbon version is stiffer, lighter, snappier and flexes differently.
This isn’t a mental difference but a tangible one i can feel when climbing and pushing on at pace.
I used to be able to flex my old SC at the BB side to side a lot the carbon version has none of this flex.
It’s not cheap to get Carbon editions but worth it IMO.

Pikes are a worthy upgrade.
They sink less in the middle of the stroke helping to maintain the head angle of the frame and increase stability.
They are a improvement over the RL fork that will last and improve the way the bike handles.

Kashima coating.
I find the std CTD shock ok but it can be improved.
I bought my Blur LTC with a rp23 none Kashima and instantly swapped it for a kashima coated rp23 I had TFTuned for the previous frame.
The std shock is ok, I found it worth getting the shock push’d or buying a shock like the float X or Monach plus over the std that comes with SC frames.
Also be aware the lever on the CTD gets filled with crud and jams up, keep it filled with grease in the small detents that are on the underside of the blue lever.
I’ve never been happy with the supplied shocks on my SC frames and will look to change to a CCDB air, monach plus or float x in the future. As is my TFTuned Push’d RP23 is good enough.
I can’t put a tangible reason to why i.e. blowing though the travel, poor on large hits, poor small bump compliancy. They just don’t feel sorted.

We have two mj880 lights and are super happy with them.
We have a gloworm xs too and both prefer the mj880l2 2400.
We got ours from these guys.
http://www.magicshineuk.co.uk
Can’t say enough good about them.
The light had a small issue (early mj880 had a small firmware issue where it detected low voltage to early) they sent a replacement ASAP.
Really lovely sales lady who is happy to do deals and you can haggle a bit with.
Family business and cheap enough (haggle a bit) over other none reputable sellers.

Push tuning not cheap but Sooooooooooo worth it.
It’s not like a cc bdair but miles better than out the bike OEM tune.

Why not buy a cheap shock rp23 and get someone like loco or tftuned to service and tune it?
My brother brought an rp23 from pink bike and tftuned it with a push tune and serviced it for less than a new shock.
Only difference was it wasn’t new.
Advantage was it wasn’t just a plain tuned OEM shock. It had push tuning upgraded parts as well as the tune. All in was £200.

Ton, we use mudhugger.

we tried the rest (and broke most of them).
It’s FUGLY but your the one laughing at the end of a ride as your 90% cleaner than those without mudguards or with other sorts.

Danny is a top fella.

I have real work use of both.
But THB loco has hit it on the head perfectly.

The ov erall point is…
Initial stiction of the pike is less and they have better mid stroke.

All the BS about flex and other stuff is very hard to notice unless your pushing these forks very very hard.
What isn’t hard to notice is the pike sitting in the middle of the travel more and blowing though the travel less than the fox. Also Pike don’t flatter your ego and leave the travel marker at the crown you really need to push them to get it near the top. The fox you can hit the marker of the crown consistantly during a ride. (this was with the 2014 uprated CDT damper too, i tried both the 2013 CDT and the 2014 uprated CDT)

Unless your a hard charger the Fox will do.
If your worried about any of the above points change them (which i did). Loco get that air damper sent and read your e-mail :) haha

Alligator pads are great for the money too.

I have some 2 ride old mudx for sale.
mudx for sale

Or brake disc bolts

Nah that’s a good price with rotors and mounts

I’ve used Halford a few times when desperate.
Only good things to say really.

Speeds cycles in Droitwich wanted my bike frame for 5 days to remove a old shimano square taper bb and £15 for the privilege.

Walked up 5 shops to Halfords and asked the bike tech if he could remove it.
2 mins later it was out, Park tool did the job for a grand cost of £2.

Any of the Les Arcs holiday company’s will suit you.
Recommend trailaddiction

Think trout does mods to them