No one??
Surely it’s the “next big thing” so have to be people on here with them.

Loads (Inc myself) can give you advise about riding locations and trails to ride.
I’ll post something different.

Have fun first and most importantly.
Take knee and elbow pads with a full facer (and clear lens glasses or goggles).
Check you kit on arrival, I’ve lost count of the number of riders I’ve seen not check something (tyre pressures or fork/shock pressures) only for it to bite them in the ass.

Most importantly take your time the first few days. Going balls out the first day for the first time isn’t recommended. Seen a few bad crashes on day one or two for the rider to sit sulking all week. You’ll naturally speed up over the week, relax and your arm pump will fade.
Get yourself some thick dh tubes and dual ply tacky high rollers or minions.

Once a month… LoL and they say men exaggerate…

I have to clean and lube my blacklite post every 4-6 months.
It’s the lightest out there and I like the three stage drop.

The internal lev have a crap design. When you pull the lever it compresses the cable outer. Ffs what a crap design the outer is not designed for this purpose. The cable inner is locked into a ring in the underside of the post and compression of the outer cable forces a arm which allows the post to drop. So so bad.

Despite my blacklite needed regular service I’ll be getting the v3 version.

Been MTB biking years and motor biking 3 years.
no issue what so ever.

I would say I’m actually a better road rider after Jedi.

I will say the motor bike instructor I had was excellent. He spent time taking us on quick routes and teaching us counter steering.

Yes there are two different techniques but as I motorbike everyday and MTB bike once or twice a week I get fair chance to swap between the two techniques.

Also on a side note, Ninja eyed Jedi knew I was a motorbike after only seeing me ride a few mins.

LoL at one reply in there…

If you have chain marks on your spokes your mech is over shifting and coming into contact with your spokes or your chain is bouncing back up when in the largest rear cog and hitting the spokes. First get this resolved by adjusting the limit screw or removing some links.

Narrow wide rings do not produce more noise when clean and well oiled but they do need a good chainline. They actually support your chain more but they do need to be clean as the wider teeth will press dirt and grit into the wider links and cause noise.

On my SC I found the chain hit the reinforcement plate under the drive side chain stay. I have put a small peice of copter tape to stop the noise. The chain can get this whip effect where the mech doesn’t have enough tension and constant hits cause the chain to bounce up and down more. Increasing the mech tension for the clutch helped but didn’t remove it totally.

I have a Bel Air atm and while ive broken it in and i can ride a good while on it the covering appears the weakest point.
maybe try a new bel air.

that is exactly my issue, short ride its bearable.
longer… jesuss… I may as well ride on a rock.

We may be there about that time.
Only doing a blast though as we have to exercise the dog.

I have this year’s spoon.
It had a odd rubber coating on the top.
It sticks to my short like poo does to fur.

Great now I’m breaking it in.
It’s a black marbled effect.

I’ve run both.
Personally the Fox are nice if they have the upgraded internals (2014 internals).
Service intervals are shorter on the Fox(bad) the servicing on the revs is stupidly easy to do.
Early 2013 fox versions tend to dive under braking and the cdt levels were odd. The C setting was soft(solid on the 2014 versions) and not a lockout like the new damper is. The t mode was to low on the compression setting (as was the whole fork) again improved by the new internals.
Revs are a solid fork, not as plush or sensitive as the Fox and under extreme loads the wheel could deflect left to right. But it’s a solid fork, easy to setup and maintain while it may lack a little sensitivity over the Fox it doesn’t dive in the middle of the stroke like the Fox did pre 2014 internals.
Fox Vs the revs people will mutter utter rubbish about Fox “massively” flexing compared to the revs. Having run both back to back the Fox has a little fore and aft flex and I personally found the revs to have side to side flex but it’s not massively noticeable in either.

From me the choice is between a fork that’s sensitive but costly to maintain or reliable and easy to maintain.

Here
I have a hi vis one and a white one.
lomo

Get a lomo daysack backpack.
I have two and I use one for my motorbike.
Great value, no pockets or compartments but if you need a waterproof bag nothing beats them for £30. Mine is uses everyday on the motorbike and never once has it been any trouble.
Scottish company sells them.

New.. Don’t worry about a small weeping when new. It’s to be expected.
Only real issue is dirt gets into the CTD lever dimples and makes it a bugger to move.
Make sure you keep putting thick grease on the underside of the lever. You can see the dimples when in c or d mode.

Same rule applies in numerous places.
Buses, vans, etc at afan are £6.

To be honest £20 is a joke but a minibus is clearly not a car.

Out all the tape I’ve used jra copter tape is the thickest and best.

Get some black sign vinyl from eBay.
Matt version. Would look better.
I may buy some for GC.

I had the slx hora.
They were perfectly fine.
Looked better than my partners XT ones after a longer time.
Weight was a small difference between them.
Had steel insert version as it prevented cross threading.

Seriously???
Do a search there was this exact thread 2 – 3 days ago.
Loads of great input Inc my better half who owns some.

If you search the forum there is a reply somewhere.
Memory says it was air inside and there were micro holes that had been blocked and blowing the air holes cleared the block.
Once the holes are clear the air will successfully bleed out correctly.

That’s the port that fills the neg chamber.
Suppose it could be a dimple or a groove.

I know my chainline is dead on running 51mm with a next sl crank on a single ring with a small spacer on the drive side.

Sorry but unless I’m mistaken there is no groove inside and they aren’t being totally honest.
I’ve stripped my air damper and negative side while changing my damper rod.
The air damper slides inside a tube which has no groove in it.

Loco will confirm if I’m wrong.

Freddie.
Have you used a new chain?? I have a theory.

My partner has a 4 ride old chain and a t-rex and it doesn’t drop.
I have a new cassette, new jockey wheels, new chain, new front ring.
Drops when back peddling. I’ve used it a few times and the drops are less.

My assumption is the chain is so new it can’t flex to the chainline and therefore drops when back peddling. As the chain has worn over the few rides I can back peddle more and more with less dropps

Early zestys were prone to cracks.
2010 on were made a lot stronger..

My last purchase…
Did I need them… Nope.. I wanted them though..

Good luck.
What year Zesty?
Got a photo pls?

I have a loco machined damper rod but I’m running 160 on 26. I bought 150s and wanted a bit slacker ha.
Been great.

Mine did the same and I spoke to loco.
His suggestion was to ride it hard.
(I have changed the air damper and had grease in the port).
Ran hard down the final descent of the blade.
It fixed it.

Had this issue from new with my XT brakes.
I ended up taking the wheel out, squeezing the pistons out then pitting the wheel back in.

I also put red rubber ring grease on the pistons to help them move.

Do NOT do willy’s suggestion.
The Pike is different the neg chamber is the lower part of the air damper on the air side.

Good point, well made..

Hmmmmmmm I’ll pop into a bike shop and see.
Thx

They have a cap on the end.
Is that removable. I’ve never had v brakes.

Fireroad only.

Hippy I brought a next sl crank in the sale.
They sell the cinch Bb bsa sizing but not the tool.
I too emailed asking about the Bb tool as I was spending over £400 on a crank and Bb and wanted the tool to install it.
Never replied.
I ended up calling them as I didn’t want to miss the sale. They were OK on the phone but basically said if it’s not listed we don’t sell it.
I told them that was crap service selling a £35 quid Bb and £350 crank but not the tool to install it. Frankly they didn’t care.

Bought it from Evans online.

I like crc and normally no issue but went spending money like that a flippant nature to enquiries really gets my goat.

It’s bloody warm..
Other then that I love it.
Light and fits like a glove even on my hugeeeeeee noggin.

That rule of thumb is exactly that.. Someone stuck a thumb is the air and guessed.. rubbish.
It’s all dependant on you frame and linkage. Vpp and dw links have a rearward path if I did the rule of thumb above I’d be stuck somewhere with a snapped chain.
I’ve had to go about mine differently.
Similar to this guy (if you can ignore his accent hehe)
Pro Tips: Chain Length and Rear Derailleur Setup:

You could try race Co in Stourbridge but Tbh he is useless when trying to get demos for brands he sells.

Only issue I have found is if you use a new chain due to the lack of flex the chain will come off, if you back peddle on the T-rex.
My fiance has one too and her chain is a bit used, no issues with back peddle on the T-rex for her.

On longer rides we do this.
Top of the blade we snacked on kendal mint cake and a breakfast bar.

Sadly your clicking will be due to you making the bearing race due to cranking on the preload.
You won’t stop it and you’ve done permanent damage.
Need another Bb, sorry..