LOL – What about the new Ribble Sportive? 😉 How come your in plaster (not been paying attention recently RealMan )

Brand front always 😉 (it does not matter ) And not upside-down 😉

Crikey – not going to read all that but dont bother worrying about it – just do a normal bleed with 5.1 and just ride the bike 🙂

That’s a YEAR ago! Damn – best read the post then 😉 I find burning it on the BBQ to get the BBQ going works well 😉

I was miffed when I FORKED out the money for them – get it – see what I did there 😉 – anyway – I don’t even notice now 🙂

I have to stand up for the new FIT/Kashima models – I love mine (over 1 year) and have had absolutely no issues at all 🙂

They are a PITA to cable so I am not surprised you can’t get it out. Have you tried putting a soldered bit of spare cable down the hole to push it out?

oOOOOOOOH – Been there and back – I was told its a variation sometimes in the die they use in the manufacturing process! I have to say the coating on my 2010 F120’s are standing up very well and the finish is def not a typical anodising like my 07 Talas forks.

Bit of give and take here might sum it up ?

BODGETASTIC 🙂

100 miler – @ a leisurely pace I might add – its my neck of the woods but first time entering as have done the pre-ride with MDCC before – thought I should pay for it this year 🙂 Its all very scenic and misses out a few of the stonker hills thankfully although Doccombe at the end will be challenging! 🙂 Maybe see you out there 🙂

I got one of these for £50 for general riding but am going to take it for TW as well about 300 hours + standby 🙂 Waterproof as well 🙂

I think its personal taste – Adv and dis-adv of both systems but I don’t think its a major issue to rant and rave about – just do what you want surely? Try it or not? Does any one really care what everyone else does?

For me its the lack of on trail/race/ride faffing that matters to me most running tubeless? and I don’t get through much sealant TBH prob every 4-5 months I topup so the initial cost with a valve core, tape and gloop is about £15 and probably lasts the easily 2 years per set of wheels unless your tyres wear our faster?

I think the lack of pinches keeps me running tubeless on both my HT and FS – a few niggle now an again but otherwise nowt – no regrets esp now I run my Stans rim with just a bit of tape and a valve 🙂

YUP 🙂

Me too 🙂 Can;r be arsed with the EX Ex again as it was too easy last year compared with the last few years?

Steve , you do what you want mate – tis your bike afterall ! Sounds like a good plan 🙂

are you sure its not the shifters or mech – If you have replaced the inners and outers and they still do not shift properly then I doubt its that. If you have fitted them but gradually get worse in muddy conditions then sure try full outers? For the record I run full outers on my orange and interrupted on my HT and there has been no difference. I just keep them all clean – perhaps I have to change the small bit of outer near the rear mech a bit more often but that’s rare.

Well I was glad I had a compact on the Wiggle Cornwall Tor ride with a 1 in 3 – I was climbing in 34:28 at a cadence of about 30 (of felt like it) on the 1 in 3 and the guy behind just fell off his bike!

I made it up – most didn’t! perhaps they were not running triple or compact!

if you have a short cage mech then no – you’ll have to get a longer chain and a medium/long caged mech to go above 28 tooth (the total tooth capacity might be OK – haven’t checked that ) but the rear is up to 28 tooth on the 105 SS mechs (already researched this for my wifes bike).

Yeh fair enough – I was getting excited that I could do the special stages on my Five and the easy stuff on my HT 🙁

‘ll be riding my Cannondale Rush but with my steel HT on standby just in case I have a disaster. (The HT will be stripped down so that my wife can get it in the car and drive through the night to find me..)

Not being funny but I thought the rules (when I read them ) said you had to do it all on one bike?

Just go for the cheaper?

I copped out and did the last 4 day mini – I wanted to see what its like and then if I love it I’ll do the 7 days next year 😳 I have decided to do it on a HT however 😯

Are the newer elixers 180 setup – My avid juicy’s are 185mm adapter and discs?

However is this what you are looking for?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Avid-Caliper-mounting-hardware-Stainless/dp/B0050VEA3C

Well they make a big profit most of which goes to charity or the club every year i.e. £35 x2500 riders so Its not so much the money side of it? but yeh I could make a donation to their charity (s) 🙂

True – hadn’t thought of that!

Andy – do you have a link for the degradation of polymers by copperslip as I was not aware of this till now?

But if you put a tiny bit of grease or copperslip on the start of the threads then it would not be a issue for me – I have never found any excess material in the BB if you use is on the threads sparingly?

LOL

WW – I did:

Use the reverse side of the Mounting Tool to re-install the crank arm cap – this should hand tight only.

But I have just put an image in to make the point?

Does this help ?

you do need the tool though!

http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/maintenance/servicing-xtr-cranks.htm

Any use? :

http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/maintenance/hope-pro-ii-rear-hub-service.htm

I think you can squeeze another tooth out of it and go to 28 (I read this somewhere after looking into it myself)

Funny this post as my 6700 mech just failed – the cage top pivot has seized and no amount of lube cured it – oh well dont think it liked the -10 temperatures last winter 🙁 spare jockey wheels now anyway 🙂

Well my wife wanted to know more about the process of buying so she was convinced by a local chain to go and see their mortgage advisors – I said don’t but she insisted. I get a phone call from my wife saying they had a great deal and we should sign up. I said NO – bring it home if you like but dont sign a damn thing. Funnily enough she didn’t bring anything home.

The trick is to sign you up for an exclusive deal – a credit check is performed and then you are limited to what they can offer as no one else will touch you after having a mortgage credit check and thus you end up having to go with one of their no so exclude deals. We found this out from out IFA and current mortgage provider later in the week!

My wife was rather shocked! Lesson learned 🙂

They will be cheapos so you get what you pay for – email them an ask who the manufacturers are to see if they are a decent set? Otherwise you can get cheapos for that price separately?

However if you use a jet wash regularly then it won’t matter as they will fail in 6 months anyhow 😉

http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/maintenance/fox-forks-wiper-seal-service.htm

Any use?

The BB will be metal surely unless its a weird BB type? – So just use sommink – grease, copperslip etc I use grease on my CC frame BB if that helps.

they have the ear of the vendors, and if they don’t like you, they will bad mouth you at every opportunity.

Quid pro Quo – then they loose their sale as it has been on the market for 9 months and they haven’t had a bean yet!! If they loose the sale then the EA don’t get their money – we just find another house to buy (as we have a contingency plan of a few other houses we like)! If they were to force the chain to break then they will loose out on cash from 2 other properties in the chain!

At the end of the day we are choosing to move not needing to move!

Am afraid thats life – the more you panic to get your feet in when the trail get technical the less likely you achieve the “clip-in”. Just practice? I found shimano SPD’s fine to get into – I now use time atac for the float but if I try and clip-in during a technical section then I faff more!

The caged version may however give you more time to clip in when the going gets rough? Also the XT and XTR versions IMHO are easier to clip in?

No worries 🙂

FYI:

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fsa-megaexo-cranks-bottom-brackets