Not wanting to criticise Spesh bikes but I had a stumpy and it made a racket so not surprised – mine is quiet onteh climbs not but obviously being a Five the plates come crashing down on the descents ;)

Retro83 – my addition to my old thread was to ID where my creak was comming from?

Right – found out what it was – its the rear dropouts

i bought the ice tools version of the remover for £13 from cyclestore close to me… so far been used 4 times so it has already paid for itself.

I agree got the park tools one for my B’day for £20 and removed replaced my heatset, my wifes headsets and removed 2 of my friends heatsets so you will use it and lasts for ever IMHO ;)

Only had one puncture on my original Specialized Mondo Pro tyres in the last 2.5 years and commute 2-3 times a week on back roads with brambles and also Devon roads in the winter – these are obiously race tyres but I get to work quicker ;)

I would say XTR as well as the Gore ones as soooo expensive. The Gore one did last a long time IMHO – get a long real of outer SP41 as it works out cheaper ;)

Right – found out what it was – its the rear dropouts – I think there is grit getting in the dropouts and the pegs of the hub (hope pro II) as teh paint and metal is worn on the hubs. cleaned, locktite on teh hanger bolts and shadow mech bolt and copper grease inside the dropots (not on the QR /dropout faces) and hey presto – no creaks – result – glad it wasnt the swingarm pivots/bushings. Cheers guys.

Oops – well I ordered the Freeride ones and was going to change the order if I got a different reply for the STW possie but left it too late – logged in this morning and the order is already processed – hmm – well its an extra 3mm each side but the rim is about 28mm width so the 32mm Freeride strip may fit OK – if not I think it might be going in the classifieds section ;) Thanks for the tips anyway guys – I’ll learn to bide my time next time ;) I guess the freeride will streach a bit more the the Rhyno strip so will narrow a little on a 26″ so as long as it sits inside the rim I should be ok? :o

cheers guys – have had teh rear QR on my list – we’ll see how it goes – maybe should have gone for a maxle ?

nope – didn’t want hope QR’s coz of reviews ;) If you heard this creak I dont think you could ignore it ;)

TIME ATAC – got 2 pairs – no regrets with my dodgy knees d.t. lots of float but shims are pretty good – used to have some!

well def tight I checked it but not taken if off and clean and replaced etc. but my mates mech hanger was the source of his creek! I’ll see if the creak comes back now I have re-assembled teh swingarm pivots etc ;)

I am sure I am probably wrong as had a few FS in my time and it is nigh on impossible to ID where the creak is comming from but there you go – gotta start somwhere !

ahh – no email address?

maybe I’ll mail orange to ask wether the pivot bearings should be dry inside the seals or greased ball bearing races?

No offense Stu – your right mean’t to mention I replaced the BB too as well as the cranks etc

LOL sharki – seems to be the way !

well def not the BB – replaced with XTR BB and cranks – I have greased the pivot bearings by taking the seal off and applied synth bearing grease – hope that stops it. otheriwse I’ll do a bearing upgrade with some BETD ones I think. Was just interested if anyone else had the same pivot bearing problems.

Cheers Mark – My twitter is called FoxyRider as well ;) LOL – I know don’t worry I am not expecting anything ;)

Its a shop warranty issue – take the bike back to the shop and they should sort it out for you – My old forks developed play a few years ago a few months after buying the whole bike – the forks went off to the service centre and back again at not cost to me. Good luck ;)

It kept loosening when riding even only moderately rocky descents.

It shouldn’t move really – the object of the SFN is to take up the tension in the headset and the the stem clamp should holid it in place – in theory you could get rid of the top cap and SFN once the stem is tightened as it doesnt do anything else. Are you sure the stem bolts are tight?

Nope had an older Stumpie FSR and no problems there – I agree with Z1ppy it maybe a little more fiddley to put back in is fully extended as you have to raise the bike up a bit but do it on a stand and you can get it to the perfect height at the back ;)

I guess not naff just funny?

theflatboy

Cool!

Yeh sorry about the pic – iphone camera – just use your imagination :) You can tell I am bored can’t you ;)

OK how about this one:

Visual intrusion on open mountain and moorland. Mountain Biking and the Environment (Adventure and Environmental Awareness Group, 1992) recommends that mountain biking is in most cases inappropriate in such wilderness areas.

Like that bit – so mountain bikers are visually more intrusive than horse riders and walkers. And we also can cause a problem to walkers and horse riders – what about horse riders and walkers who block paths and rights of way so that mountainbikers have to slow, poss to a stop or even get off – happened to me a few times ;) Sorry I digress. Scotland have it sorted I agree!

Ehh – had a great ride – we did stick to bridlepaths – MBR hard route inc Dead womans ditch but lovely ride with no probs – how come ? Did you get some Tw@ tell you otherwise ?

Actually I was lying is was cr@p – the worst ride of the weekend – don’t go there is sucks – its flat and the descents are pants. I would leave it for the locals to potter around ;)

Ehh – had a great ride – we did stick to bridlepaths – MBR hard route inc Dead womans ditch but lovely ride with no probs – how come ? Did you get some Tw@ tell you otherwise ?

Local nut and bolt supplier?
It’s only a flippin’ bolt!!!

Duh thats sort of what I was getting at :roll:

Yup, standard M6 x 20 steel socket head works – I bought some from Stagonset.

Thanks Househusband and Dibbs – what I was looking for – ordered them ta very muchly!

The axle is certainly a “loose fit” and looks a bit worn on either end where it sits on the bearings – I always use the plastic end cap tightener and do the crank bolts up to the correct torque setting – I have some LX cranks on my hard tail so I will try the Hope BB in that and see if it fits better as its newer than the 07′ XT cranks. Think there maybe a subtle axle diameter issue here? I will also try and greese the axle but never had to do it before on other cranks? Cheers Guys.

Anyone got a Hope BB ?

Cheers Ralph ;)

I get my mech hangers from BETD bit more expensive but very nice hangers!

Yup its good old pointless – quiet at work today LOL

I get that with seal skin merinos and I think its because my shoes are too tight and so reduces the bloody supply to my toes and thus are cold!

Perhaps a start of household items made by singletrack ;)

see my previous post – applicable to most X- jockey wheels! http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/alternatives-to-sram-x0-jockey-wheels

had my stumpjumper FSR for 3 years and the pivots were wearing out and squeaking even after full bearing replacements – then onto a marin MV – ex demo – thought was Ok but eventually thought too high and too short – then went finally for a Orange 5 frame upgrade (after 1.5 years on the Marin) and finaly satisfied so as long as it lasts I’ll stop there I think. How long are you thinking of i.e.

A lot of folk seem to change bike often

are we talking months or several years – I would not think of changing a bit within 1 year myself unless it broke but then it would still be under warranty!

LOL

Hmm – Bonking – yes it does have that alternative meaning but I was using the term for hypoglyemia/exhaustion on a MTB ride ;)