Agree Sancho – I find if I have cleared a double (not often) then a comparable double in my mind is clearable – I think this differs as its an unusual bit of natural trail?

Thanks TM :)

YGM luminous :)

yup – agree with all that – I’m gonna try it again when I have pent up aggression – that usually does it – I was follOWing someone who did do it so I know how to ride it – just my brain stopping me :(

Troutie – many thanks for the AYUP fix and Smudge Battery – spot on and the battery fits very nicely in the old AYUP pouch (is also more compact!!) Super bright as well :)

If you fill it with grease the click stops ;)

Trouble was I had to use them to approach the section & to jump the rear wheel sideways – wish it was that simple :( I think I need to MTFU :(

I hate to plug but:

http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/maintenance/fox-float-shock-service.htm

Do you need new seals – have you just tried an air can service?

Edit: Simon @ Loco is a very approachable & knowledgeable chap and good to support the smaller businesses IMHO :)

Great DIY there Chris – beat the post in this morning but thanks for the work on my AYUPs – very much appreciated – :)

Not gonna make it today TM (not that you would have waited for me anyhow ;) )

Awesome Trout :) Many thanks – can wait to see the results !!!! :)

just in time for the clocks and my commuter :)

Mail me with how much I owe you of course :)

Thanks again – really appreciate it :)

Had a few and still my fav are the Alien 2/3

Cheers guys – just mulling over next years event calendar :)

I looks like a lot of fire road climbs?

Well I did the Oktoberfest @ in 8 hours 13 laps (120Km) solo and got 21/60 which is my longest race yet – so just wondering if it would be unreasonable?

Thanks Drac – I’ll have a butches

in my experience, if your using this combo with a shimano chain you will have issues. sram cassette=sram chain. shimano cassette=sram or shimano chain. for what its worth. also check the b tension screw is adjusted correctly.

Not in mine but each to their own :)

I did a partial breakdown of the Hilo which I based on the KS post if it helps – there is also a good KS article:

http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/maintenance/x-fusion-hilo-service.htm

http://www.watermanatwork.com/Land/Cycling/BikeShop/KSAdjSeatpost/KSAdjSeatpost.html

I’d prob got 3/4 tights under shorts for off road and then when super cold full lengths – unless you dont like the tight look?

If its anything like my X-fusuion Hilo I would think its the cable – you dont need much friction in the cable mechanism for the lever to be stiff IMHO? – try it with a very short cable and outer off the bike and see?

The actuator lever on my Hilo pillar is very difficult to open by hand if that helps.

I might pop down for the morning TM – not sure I’ll get the whole day to ride :)

Is now waiting in anticipation for what’s comming for my AYUP can upgrades!!! If you can fix the wiring I mashed when I pulled the cans apart first !!! :(

Nice – :)

I was the first to re-post – do I get a prize? ;)

If you lift/shake the back of the bike by the seat is there a rattling – that would suggest the Shock bushing as jonk says?

Nice one :)

A bent mech manger is often not noticeable St Colin. I presume you are also not using a mixture of SRAM and Shimano? Also the shift ratios can be messed up by not clamping the rear cable properly i.e. straight through the guide.

it sorts about 2 gears, the rest end up being out by more.

Really doesn’t sound indexed properly – I’d loosen the cable, index down and start from scratch myself unless the mech hanger is bent?

All part of biking!

Sounds like you either need to replace worn parts or you need to practice fettling more?

Looks like – std cups on the picture so:

Hope

Top: 1.1/8″ – Traditional 33.9mm
Bottom – 1.5″ – 1.1/8″ – Step Down 49.57mm

however if you go to Cane Creek you can find it out theirs:

Top Headset:

SHIS:EC34 – 1-1/8″ Traditional Threadless

Bottom Headset:

SHIS:EC49/30 – 1.5″ Traditional to 1-1/8″ Conversion

SHIS:ZS49/30 – 1.5″ Traditional to 1-1/8″ Conversion

http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/photos/on-show-eurobike-2009-part-1/86044

I presume its std or semi-integral/Zero Stack not integrated?

What frame is it?

If above you need a reducer crown then fir the 1.5 lower cup and the 1 1/8 upper cup (weather STD external cup or semi-integrated)

Why not give Simon @ Loco a quick email before you wack it even harder – see if he can help – he does a very competitive fork service as well?

Have you tried putting the nut back on a bit, then the socket and then hitting it with a steel hammer?

http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/maintenance/fox-forks-wiper-seal-service.htm

oooops :) Sorry…….. :oops: [gets hat]

Frame quoted as: Integrated 1 1/8″, 36º/45º for a 45mm OD head tube – Cane Creak std

45mm Outside Dia. [41.2 inner bore] for a bearing Dia. of 41mm. The angled seat in the frame is 45º, the internal angle of the bearing is 36º.

Hope Headset Quoted : IS41/28.6 : IS41/30 – bearings too high/seats too shallow I guess :( So prob not Cane creek Std.

On the CC website its to do with the bore depth – found it the hope is only for 10mm bore depths!

Thanks – I know the head tube IS an std BS internal/integrated – the Hope IS is supposed to be a BS IS headset so? Its not a ISi (campag) as the OD is different.

My point is that I can confirm frame has a BS IS internal fitting – my old headset fits fine – the Hope one doesn’t :(

On the diagram up there is a CC IS std 1 1/8 head tube (second image, second in from top left). Just cant understand why the Hope doesn’t fir – its obviously not suitable for CC IS std!

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Adjust-the-Pivot-Bearings-on-Any-Santa-Cruz-VPP-Sus.html

Thanks guys for the info.

Tiz great when you sleep on stuff and then go and fettle before you go to work.

My old frame was actually an IS not and ISi (got confused as my other road bike is an ISi) so didn’t need a new headset – the old headset (CC) fits as it does in the old frame – the Hope IS doesn’t!

I compared the seating on the old and new fames this morning and they are identical so then I knew it was the headset?

Confused – I presume the Hope IS isn’t suitable for road frames (prob an oversight on my part?) esp as the crown race is too tall as well – I think I am being a numtpy here and not doing my research properly! More haste less speed!.

Kinesis Convert 2?

http://kinesisdecade.co.uk/product.php?id=7

I got a new Ti Road frame – the building start tonight :)

Its now Law that you will have to post photos!