Hm.. respray the forks. Bingo.

How was the sizing – am also 6ft1, currently on an XL Norco Optic (their suggested size) – Transition recommend a size L, though the XL has near identical geom/measurements as the Norco..

It’s an open source map site so people have added routes to it freely. The orange routes are generally things like FFC Grande Traversees (here in France) – but also sometimes just someone’s added in other waymarked routes – I imagine things like the trail centres in the UK are on there for example.

thanks for the tips guys – aware they’re very different bikes for sure. Am still pondering what I want – worried that I will just end up beefing the Epic Evo up with bigger tires etc, or if the Optic would be too close to my Stage 6 in reality without some serious spending to get the weight down. The Transition Spur is probably in between the two. Their sizing seems more up my street as well – recommending a Large for me with a 480 reach. It’s all pretty academic anyway since there are no bikes available

cheers for the insight..

cheers for the advice…

So for a garmin unit, if you can load up a FIT or GPX file to the unit you can follow the route no probs.. but getting it on there via an iPhone isn’t an option.

Merci.

Ditch any notions of being able to ride pristine singletrack from the top of lifts.. if you want that stuff, you have to climb away from the lifts.

Get a guide for a day. You’ll ride a load of good stuff, and if you ask nicely, have other stuff pointed out to you as options later.

But if it’s pissing it down all week, then there’s not much to be done to avoid the slop.

Got the setting tool. Drilled another hole. Batton covers the mistake… no one need know 🙂 thanks all!

May get an additional leg just to mitigate against the drunk mates sitting on it – cheaper than a new wall.

oh, don’t worry, there will be a leg that end.. no way it’s staying up with one end fixed to the wall!

that’s the diameter, not the thickness of the wall.. so far as I can see they all say ‘up to 15mm’ – that me misinterpreting?

they do look good.. though pretty sure my wall is 20mm thick.. so back to the shelf idea

and yes.. accounting for the drunk mate / renter (it’s a holiday let) sitting on it is deffo an issue that needs to be resolved.. over engineering is required here I think.

Was always going to put a batten on (5x5cm one), then rest the worktop on that.. think I will go for a batton-cum-shelf that extends to the nearest support behind – will cover the holes I’ve made, and we can put some small plants on it or something – all part of the plan 😉

Gripits look good.. one for the future.

thanks for the offer and advice.. will see about filling the gaping hole now 🙂

beagle – am in Morzine if that helps 😉

annoyingly, it’s an exterior wall.. most of the walls have been fine and pretty solid. this one however is not for some reason. One interior wall caused the need for an SDS drill.. damn.

not with the setting tool, nope – don’t have one, thought you could screw them in ok. thought wrong!

house was built in the 70’s

wall is a long way away from the interior wall.

timbers no where near..

🙁

that’d probably work.. hole is big enough now 🙂 but yep – Suspect tightening it up may cause the back bits to pull through.. and yep. Think it’s not going to hold the weight of a worktop still sadly. May have to get some legs!

Solden is ace… For a weekend the lift assisted stuff is enough – for a week, you’ll want to explore.

Untitled by Guy Bowden[/url], on Flickr

hm – no regrets there then 😉 the boxes have served us well to be fair.. we do get through a fair bit of tape at each end! And the bags will be a little more taxi friendly I suppose..

Got to say that having gone 29+ recently I can see how 27.5+ is going to be a fun bike to rag around the woods. It won’t have quite the mile munching ability of a bigger 29+ wheel though.

At worst, it’s a regular 650 but with a lot more mud clearance.

As for this ‘the industry’ coming up with devilish ways to **** us over, well that’s just horse shit – if we, the people, didn’t buy stuff, they wouldn’t make it…

There we go.. got some more normal bars, and 3″ rubber on there. It’s pretty fun 🙂

Need to get them tubeless next – found the valve hole on the inside of the rim was schrader sized, so my valves leaked air into the void and out the spoke holes 🙁 Need to get something to bung up the gaps.

1 2 and 3 eh.. so 30/36 will be the lowest gear – assuming I can get the lowest 3 cogs from the middle ring..

nice one.. will hopefully get the chance for an overnighter in the coming weeks. I’m hoping the chronicle on the stock 35mm rims will allow for at least a few granny gears – we’ll see!

Thanks Paul.. I think that settles it!

Appologies if this has been asked… is this bike fun to ride – as well as being able to bikepack, commute, etc etc.. if you stick some big 29+ tires on it (or not) is it fun to blast about the woods for an hour or two?

gratuitous sunshine, sea and singletrack photo.

Any problems lifting the front with those “long” chainstays?

it’s a bit harder than my road bike for sure 🙂 but if you put a bit more effort in, it’ll come up no worries – just do a few push ups and it’ll all be fine. The SB66 is a long bike as well, so I guess it’s about the same.

I like that you say it rides like a bike and the stem makes no difference This means you aren’t a follower of fashion and the associated bollocks.

damn.. i thought roughty toughty 29ers were all the rage this month.

so.. 7 days and 7000m of climbing (and associated descending) in the sunshine of the italian riviera and I have some conclusions for you..

1: This bike is fun.
2: This bike can handle slow, technical trails as well as fast and flowy.
3: Michelin Wild Rock’r2 2.35 Advanced Reinforced Link are big, heavy tires with loads of grip, and roll surprisingly well.
4: 800mm bars are overkill.. got the 750mm blackbox bars on now.
5: 35mm stem/bar interface makes zero difference (to me)
6: 140mm forks on a Segment aren’t much fun. much more fun/grip/climbing ability in 110 mode. 120 pikes will be great when they arrive I reckon.
7: A 34t chainring is a touch too big.
8: Pizzas are cheap!
9: 1 Large Yeti SB66 will be for sale shortly!

that is all!

A good bike for cowards then? I’d better get my order in

fnar fnar. them rocks are the size of houses, and sharp as razors I tell you 😉

First ride done. Nothing fell off – not even the rider. No hard conclusions except that it handled much like a bike. Although I did get down a particularly steep and rocky shute with a lot less hesitancy than when I ride it on my ProRace – in fact, I tend not to ride it on the ProRace if I’m out on my own.. so that’s got to be a win.

Also rocket rons and wet roots aren’t a great match, no suprises there – some non intentional double tyre drifts going on. Fingers crossed the DHL man delivers some chunky michelin rubber this avo.

San Remo here I come.

Hope service have indeed offered to send the right part out FOC. However, the only difference is 1mm outer diameter, which I have taken off now anyway. So, just in case anyone else finds themselves with the same issue and looks it up on google – the answer is get the right one from hope, or take 1mm off the diameter yourself – depends how urgent the need is. I’m away on my holidays tomorrow, so the need was urgent.

in reality they all handle like bikes.

– you’d like to hope so 🙂

What must be the longest build in history is over.. for now.

First ride tomorrow lunch to see if any of it falls off. Then off to San Remo + Finale on Saturday for the week.

Will report back then 🙂

As far as the Hope customer service legend here on STW goes, if you call them they will just send you the right spacer for free. I don’t think anyone was suggesting taking them back just because they didn’t have the right one included.

I see.. unfortunately I am in France and off on a riding holiday on Sat – so getting the right spacer wasn’t an option at this late stage in the game.

However.. a monumental heath robinson fix has happened – Rigged up a “lathe” a.k.a. a cordless screwdriver – some nuts and bolts and a few rubber washers in place, I could then spin the spacer up against some wet+dry until I shaved ~1mm off the outer diameter. The spacer can fit through the cassette no bother now.

Tightened it all up, and it seems to works a treat.

Proud of that 🙂

ha – should have phoned instead of posted here. office hours are 8-5 🙁 Looking at their tech sheet there’s a separate part number for an XD x12 spacer. Not available via wiggle etc as far as I can see.. It can’t need too much filing, and it’s only soft aluminium. should be pretty simple. he says! – it’s dented now anyway, so not like I can take it back.

Hm – I see that when you buy a separate XD driver, you get a 142 spacer specially for it.. shame that when you buy some hope hoops and an X12 conversion kit (as they come with QR as standard) you get a regular 142 spacer. Think it’s time to get the file out.

I think the Segment is a slacker Gyro, but will undoubtedly have some more tweaks than that. It’s got a 1.5 headtube for starters.. not sure what else, as the Gyro has gone from their website. I think Chipps runs a longer fork on his Gyro. The Segment is designed for a 120 fork. So will see what happens with the 140 Rev on there for the next few weeks.

nuke.. bits aren’t attached yet. Just weighed it – 3250g / 7.16 lbs with headset cups and rear maxle and the Monarch RL shock.

Not bad.

I’m thinking it should be 27-28lbs in xc mode – will revisit that when all the bits are attached.

Not tried a Gyro.. but did have a Five for a couple of years. Currently on an SB66 and a Lapierre ProRace 729 – plan is that the Segment might replace both. Leaving some room in the bike shed for a Tripster ATR or a CX bike..

Well there’s actually three sets..2x Truvativ bars and 1x RaceFace.. it is greedy 🙂