Fox 32’s are fine, plenty stiff enough. I had 36’s on my previous Five and although they were stiff, they weighed a ton compared to the 32 RLC’s I have on my new one.
Specifically how better to capture the scale and steepness of jumps and drops; how better to convey speed in the context of the landscape; and basically how to capture the full gnar of the situation!
On a fully manual SLR
If I could only give one, then it would be the use off camera flash. It gives the rider some pop, and seperates them nicely from the background. Without that MTB photos look rubbish.
To convey speed you need to practice panning, and capturing the scale is just about getting the right angle.
Is that where a group of people with nothing better to do stand there with a board telling people to slow down, even though they can do nothing about it if they don’t?
My comments on Audi, BMW have nothing to do with jealousy. There are lots of other expensive cars which normally seem to be driven much more sensibly. I can’t remember seeing many Mercs/Jags tail gating on motorways.
I have an Audi and don’t drive it like a cock. I like driving it, its a nice place to be, comfortable etc. I don’t care what people think of me either, lifes too short.
BMW, Audi – Driven by dickheads
Vauxhall, Ford – Rust buckets
Peugeot, Citroen, and any other french rubbish
Mini – Stupid little cars
Alfa – Unreliable and quite ugly
That is the biggest load of BS I have read this morning.
Top tube length on an MTB doesn’t need to be as precise as most think, imo. Stem and seat position can account for a lot of variation in teh frame. Balance / weight dist is the important bit.
