Might give it a shot then, even just for a bacon & egg bap 😛

cheers jonk 🙁

slacker head and seat tube angle, lower bb. Back wheel might touch frame on full compression. My wifes old Ellsworth ID has that very mod, but that was a factory mod.

Are you sure its not the dash switch ? mine went, £20 off ebay and fitted in minutes, sorted 8)

Zip ties 8)

+another one for the Drunken Duck, which also has its own very good micro brewery,win win.

I drink just enough to keep Mrs fivespot looking good 😆

You can’t beat a good handjob 😳

Llandegla – appropriate for a novice SkierS ?

It will be this weekend 😆

There is a reason they are so cheap 🙄

This is the sort of snow they get at Llandegla. I live 12 miles away in Mold (a bit lower down) and when we get 3-4 inches Llandegla get this 😯

The only route open this weekend will be the WHITE 😆

Bring yer ski’s 8)

I use Hope headsets, they last for years and when you do need to remove the crown race it comes off with fingers as its split. Simples 😉

Try 2 or 3 zip ties between coils to pull them together. Then when you get the sprng retainer on, snip ties off.

Be very careful with muesli, a mate of mine drowned in a bowl of it.

He got dragged under by strong currents 😀

Grass needs cutting 😀

Who’s going to be first to show a pic of some nice puppies 😀

What tyre pressure with full armour at Degla 😆

Llandegla has more of a problem with people being able to carry full cartons of drink/food/stuff with them, yet throwing the light empty packets in the forest/trail side

I couldn’t agree more butler. How hard can it be to carry an empty bottle back to their chavmobile 😈

Get a digital caliper from Lidl (only £8.95)this week and measure how parallel the faces are. A very useful tool that should pay for itself in saved journeys to LBS 😉

Maybe they have seen how often the ambulance is there at a weekend 😉

maybe something to do with hoops 😆

Its got no suspension and the handle bars are bent 🙄

External BB’s have an inherent design fault, the none drive side BB (9 out of ten time goes 1st) suffers from what is thrown up by the front tyre (water being the main culprit). The drive side BB has a lot of protection from this from chain rings/spider/chain, so suffers less from water ingress. Which is the most common and quickest way to **** the bearings. Because the none drive side bearings usually go 1st, there is a common misconception that the bearing preload is too much, and caused by numpty fitting. My personal opinion is, “thats B*^”0cks. The preload nut on the none drive side exerts equal force on the bearings of both sides by pushing the none drive side arm in and pulling the drive side arm towards it ! the forces applied by this little nut are minimal compared to the pedalling forces applied through these bearings. What you need is a protective shield on the none drive side (like this) to keep the crap out 😉

Stick to std. QR drop outs, It will save you time stripping it next week when you sell it 😀

Is your shock rebound set right ? Same thing happened to me recently with a new bike, added an extra click of rebound, sorted 😉

Got an Olympus OM2 with a 55 f2 lens for £30, and then some nice people on ebay gave me £400+ for them 😀

PC 1051 is suitable for mtb or road. Asuming you are running 10 spd. Use the power link and ignor what they say about it not being reusable. I have split both my Power linked PC 1051’s a few dozen times to clean them, and still on the same links that came with the chains. 😉

I came accross this thread while googling an answer to my 44 RC3 Ti knocking. They are a second hand pair I bought in near mint condition, and obviously not used and abused. However, they perform superbly as expected, BUT they have an anoying tapping/knocking noise. I had already stripped/cleaned and put in fresh fluid. All looked very nice inside as I was expecting. But I could’nt live with that small but anoying noise. So stripped them again yesterday to see what could be causing the noise. I refitted the lowers into one stancion only at a time and put oil in as needed, and cyled them by hand. No noise from the spring side, but when I did the same on the damping side (no air pres added) and cyled them up and down, I could hear this little tapping noise. Stripped them again and removed the damper assembly. Obviously this had lost most of its oil, and after a few strokes of the damper shaft, it had lost all of it. But I still could’nt find the noise. This is factory sealed (rolled by machine) so can’t be opened, which realy p*%$ed me off. I was very close to sticking it in the lathe and turning the end off to get inside. But I had one last idea to try. I taped up the multiple hole at the bottom of the damper tube that let in/out all the oil. I then cycled the damper rod up and down fast to the air inside was compressed or sucked, and BINGO a tapping noise from a little insert at the top of the damper tube that is held in with a circlip. The little insert was shuttling up and down, and hitting the circlip, making that noise. I will shim the gap to prevent this, and hopefully have a silent fork.

Reading that some folks have paid for a new damper assembly (£200) to cure this was what drove me to try and find a cure (I’m tight)
The good news is its a cheap fix for what should turn out to be a good fork.

The best bits I have used had diamond fragments impregnated in the surface of the bit to bite into the screw head. I went through 2-2500 screws with one bit on my decking but can’t remember what make they were

I must be a freak. I run 75-85 psi in my 150 Team Revs, and I am 92kg 😕
Must be because my arse is always stuck down on the saddle end 😳

spacemonkey thats the one we have. All I can say is it works. Occasionally change the bag when its full. THATS IT 😉

Sebo…..used by many hotels because they work and keep on working. We did have a Dyson years ago, that when working , worked well. But it was like a mini job creation scheme. Broken wires, broken handle, worn wheel pivots/bearings, cracked plastic parts and so on. My mother has a Miele which maybe good but weighs that much she barely uses it. To put it in mtb terms, the Sebo is like an XC hoover and the Miele is more DH. Whats your terrain like 8)

These forks don’t have oil in the air side at all (well, a few ml in the lower leg, but very unlikely to pass through the -ve air seal, the shaft piston, and into the +ve air chamber…)

That few ml in the lower leg (5cc) could easily have been increased at a service, thus reducing the air gap in that leg on full fork compression and reducing travel.

I run my team Revs with about 15cc of lube oil just to keep them better lubed. I also prefer the way they ramp up even if I do lose the last 10-15mm of travel.

Those machines could tell a few stories. You could turn it into a working museum.

I’m lucky enough to own a lathe and miller. Both old, but work OK. The lathe is by far the best tool I have ever bought. It’s paid for itself many times over.

If you have too much lube oil in the air leg or a damping fluid leak into the other leg, both will prevent full travel even if you don’t get hydraulic lock, the air pressure build up will prevent full travel. Also try 5 psi more in the neg chamber than the pos one.

Llandegla is my local, I run 21-23 front, 31-33 rear,2.2 Rubber Queens tubeless. It’s generally grippy, but I find too much air in the front, and on some corners it looses grip. If you are tubed, try 28f 30+rear. Have fun 🙂

Cheers sbob

sbob….I make these with 1/4″ UNF thread, but one guy I sold one to said it wouldn’t fit his Rapid. Did they use any other thread size or pitch for the cocking bolts ? 😕

A bit more Titanium tinkering. Quite pleased with colours on this one.

Another Theoben cocking bolt

MM, its this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Simple-Indian-Tastes-Indias-Cuisine/dp/1844001512/ref=la_B0034QB3IK_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1362137053&sr=1-2