RAC through Tesco points. Works out about a third of the cost or less. Have been doing it for years. 😉

Got a mint 9-3 Tid Linear SE 150 for sale if anyone interested, 57 reg facelift model in black, only 12000 miles. 😉

150 Revelations are only 4mm taller than the old 140 (according to a recent bike mag. The Hustler can easily cope with that, given it's pretty low BB, 74 degree seat tube 7 68 degree head angle. Look like a winning fomula 😉

I was going to sugest Kit, but he beat me to it.
Buy his frame, get some new 150mm Revelations and get the shock pushed, put your old bits from the stiffee on, and away to play 😆 enjoy.

Three_Fish…..Spot-on. Where you hit the bearing is very important. I have seen many bearings knocked in useing a small dia. bar on the inner race. This can cause the balls to leave little indents in the races, giving you a rough feeling bearing before you even turn a wheel.

If he sent the items 1st class, then his receipt is his insurance if the total value was less than £39.

One thing to bare in mind this time of year when posting items, is that the Post Office employs extra casual labour (read into that what you want) to cover the huge increase in items being posted this month. The result (as I learnt 1st hand one recent December ) is an increase in missing post !!

New head for her broom 😆

Hutchinson Toro

I'm selling my Saab 9-3 Tid 150, 57 reg, facelift model. I hope this link works…….http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-otsaab-9-3-tid-150-57-reg

The reason the non drive side bearings seem to go first is, the exposed gap between the crank arm and the bearing cup alowing all the crap thrown up by the front wheel to get in there. The drive side has the sprockets and spider to deflect a lot of the crap away from that area.

Bearing preload should be equal, as the crank spindle is pulled through by the preload nut, applying the same load on both bearings…Simples

6" rig, QR are you serious !. 20mmm axle is the way to go.

Many fork oils have a solvent content which aids application, but also makes them seem runny like light fork oil. The solvent evaporates after application, leaving a coating of none-drip lube. The fork oil will remain thin and although it will lube the chain, it will be quite messy and may fling off onto frame and clothing. Any lube is better than none 😉

DrRSwank…I don't suppose you fancy an Ellsworth Moment, higher BB than the Alpine(med 06) in PX for your Alpine frame ❓ assuming the Apine is a med

😆

Had a few things from this guy http://www.wildwooddesigns.co.uk/

Hustler here too. Not as good looking as my old 5spot, but a far better bike better/fun ride. As far as I am aware, the travel and geometry have remained unchaged since late 2005 (They just got it right and left it). If your on a budget, get a secondhand frame, and spend your money on good forks/shock. Pushed Pikes and RP23 on mine work a treat 😉

I rode there yesterday…..Got wet and cold, but still enjoyed it, as always. I accept it may have been a bit dissapointing for people traveling a fair bit to get there. But I also accept that trail maintenance, additions and improvements needs to be done. Having seen the amount of work that has gone on recently there, I am looking forward to putting even more miles in there, then coming back to an even better cafe… Keep up the good work.

scaredypants-the bearings are original HT II items, which have a conventional rubber lipped seal on the inside and a unique Shimano design seal on the outside, which has a lip that works against the inner face of the plastic tophat/sleeve. I use a light semi fluid grease (usualy one shot after a wet/crappy ride) which, under pressure will displace some of the existing grease past the seals. No popped seals.

Scienceofficer….its still the same one, and still going strong. The grease nipples are from industrial spherical joints. They are almost identical to the Zerk grease ports found on Turners, and use the same type of grease gun.

:lol:Nice one MaveickBoy…"Personally, when I buy some new bearings, I'll be popping the seal off one side, putting some extra grease in there, popping the seal back on then inserting the bearing so that the seal I popped is on the inside of the hub, leaving the non popped seal to face the dirt and grit on the outside"….

Having worked with bearings for more than 30 years in industry, I can vouch for the grease packing theory. Many of the high speed conveying systems I work on, have bearing housings with grease nipples for periodic re-greasing. These are running 24/7, 50 weeks a year, with many running for 10+ years. One thing I have noticed on these bearings, even after wiping away excess grease from them, is a fine line of grease running around the lip of the bearing seal, lubing the seal and filling any tiny gap in a cappiliary (did I spell that right :|) way.

On the subject of grease. Not all grease runs or flows as mentioned elswhere in this thread. Some greases are almost like lard in their consistency, and only work well when warmed, then the grease starts to flow. This isn't a problem for the likes of cars, motorbikes etc. where the speeds and brake heat help to warm the hub bearings when in use. Whereas on mtb the grease hardly ever warms. This can lead to a situation where the balls and race in mtb bearing are virtualy bare of any surface grease. Muddy water getting past the tiny lip seal will very quickly corode these parts when the bike is parked-up. The resulting pitted race and balls, along with the rust particles and remaining gritty water, will accelerate the wear very quickly.

While i'm on a roll….BB bearings (as has been mentioned a few times on here) nearly always seem to fail on the none drive side first. My theory on this is, the drive side crankset offer protection from thrown-up crap and spray, whereas the contour at the back side of the non driveside crank offers a nice little V shape to guide any unwanted crap into the seal area of the BB.

And finaly, Chris King obviously believe forcing more grease into a BB will increase its life. As I do with my take on BB re-greasing 😆

I use a light semi-fluid industrial grease in this 😆

I removed them from some knackered spherical bearings. They are almost identical to Turner Zerk grease ports. 😉

Modified my XT BB to take grease ports last year. Still going strong.

Made this small spanner for my CCDB, only weighs 2g.

Hotfly, I got an Oxford Digigauge on the recommendation of another forum member a few months ago. Great accurate gauge for both Presta and Schraeder valves.

23/25 Front 33/35 Rear. Front being by far the most critical regarding grip. I do tend to mainly ride hardpack trail centres, where the tyre needs to deform to find grip, whereas if you tend to ride on soil,mud,grass etc., the suface has some give in it, and tyre pressure may be less of an issue. Oh, and I am a very light 14 stone 🙂

grumm, JonT & onzadog seem to have it sussed.

TandemJeremy, have you ever ridden an offroad motorbike ?. I used yo run 6/7 psi front and 4/5 psi rear on a trials bike, and 15/18 Front 13/15 rear on a trail/enduro bike.

GSuperstar….7mm multiplied by a 3:1 leverage ratio will give the best part of an inch extra travel on some bikes. If you check some of the shock manufacturers web sites, you will find a multitude of various shock sizes, all to suit the demands of various frame builders. Some of the popular sizes i can think of are 165×38, 190×50, 200×50, 200×57, 215×63, 222×68 and so on.

P.S. I've mailed you reg. RP23.

Stroke length does'nt always change with i2i length. For example, your Pitch Pro (I think) has an i2i of 200mm and a stroke of 57mm. But you can also get a 200mm i2i with 50mm stroke.

If you are considering an air shock, I have a 2009 Fox RP23 200X57 for sale. Medium compression and rebound tune. It is in mint conditon, having been bought by me from new a few months ago. It has done 2 rides aound Llandegla (25 mile tops)For sale as I have indulged in a Cane Creek Double Barrel 😆

Shock £165 posted Special Delivery insured.

Bit slow a typing… 🙄

Here we go…..140mm as per your example is the distance between the two bolt holes that would mount your shock to a frame. The 28mm stroke is the total amount the shock will compress, ie. this example shock will compress down to 112mm i2i.

There is no std. i2i for a 6" or any other thravel bike. The shock ratio and geometry of a frame are designed around a specific shock length and stroke. If you were to fit a shock of the wrong length or stroke, you would end up with altered geometry and in some cases the rear wheel or suspension coming in contact with the frame.

Your best bet is to say what your frame is, and chances are someone on here will know what your shock dimensions are, and maybe advise on a suitable shock for your rquirements.

Hi smartay… it was'nt Dave F from Bryn-y-Baal, cos thats me, and even though I was there yesterday, I had an accident free ride.

ianv…thats one amazing display of trials riding

There too today. Usual enjoyable ride. A fair bit of traffic out there, but great to see so many people enjoying the place.

There was a gay sparrow in my garden this morning, I caught it flying backwards for a lark 😆

oops, that did'nt turn out as planned. Try This http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hope-Bulb-Front-20mm-Axle-Conversion-Kit-NEW_W0QQitemZ280416878973QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item414a26017d

If you have a std. QR bulb hub, you will need thttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hope-Bulb-Front-20mm-Axle-Conversion-Kit-NEW_W0QQitemZ280416878973QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item414a26017dhis to convert to 20mm

Nice one uplink. flippinheckler, without trying to preach or blow my own trumpet. I don't base my maintenance on myth, just 30+ years of machanical fettling as a profession and a hobby.

gamo…yes, the pivot ones are from here http://www.tastynuts.com/, some of the others from ebay. nearly 40 of them altogether 😀

rummbledethumps…I had a few probs with ghost shifting and seat clamp catching cables at first. The cable length and curve are critical in that area, but once I got right, it never ghost shifted or snagged the seat clamp again. The pic is of my 06 med. Later 07-09 models have the cable guides under top tube, which might or might not help 😕

nuke…some bushings (I have only worked on a few of my own forks, so can't comment on all makes) have a few very fine vertcal lines in them, I presume for this reason. foam will always absorb a liquid far quicker than discharging it. If you strip your forks, even without turning them upside down first, you will find a certain amount of oil held in the foam rings.

For those of you not sure as to why you should turn your forks upside down…..Most forks these days have a small amount of lube oil in the bottom of each fork leg, where it does'nt do much. The bushes in the middle and upper part of your fork legs require this lube to keep working smooth and to prevent wear. Thus turning your forks upside down (even for half an hour) will allow the oil to flow back through the bushes, also replenishing the foam ring at the top of your fork legs, which in turn will help keep the top bush lubed for longer……simples 😕

As mentioned above, prolonged upsidedowness may on some forks (Rockshox) allow a small amount of damping oil to leak past the motion control adjuster. Also some brake systems may feel a bit spongy as well.

While I'm on a roll, its well worth having a go at splitting your forks to clean inside the seals and the foam rings, and replenish the old murky lube oil. Plenty of info on tinterweb for most forks.