Try this motorbike trials bits supplier http://www.trialsbits.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1320

Costs 67p though ! maybe out of your price range 😉

5spot rear is polished alli with a clear anodizing coat for long lasting protection.

Seiko Kinetic…the one on my wrist right now is 20 years old, no battery’s or service in that time, and even the strap is original 😉

A mixture of Helium and Stans 😆

I’m running 2.2 Rubber Queens on one bike and 2.2 Bonty XR4’s on another, 21-23psi front & 30-33 rear on both bikes, 92kg ish. I find if I go below 20psi on the front it starts to feel a bit squidgy, and above 27psi starts to feel a bit skittish and less grippy. My riding is nearly always hard pack trail centre type terrain, where in my opinion, tyres need to deform a bit to find grip on stony/rocky surfaces.

Anybody want a Rich Tea with their coffee 😆

Went from mag V12’s to HT components Nano’s (from Ready to Ride Cycles), most noticeable thing apart from being far slimmer, was the comfort compared to V12’s, they’re far more comfy. Wouldn’t go back to V12’s or the similar wellgo’s.

My 12mm axle tube has more metal in the area between the 2 main hub bearings than a std QR tube. Yes they can be drilled out, but will be a fair bit weaker. You may get away with it if you use a solid 12mm through axle 😉

Sounds like a std axle tube! The std. Pro 2 QR axle tube has a 12mm hole about a third of the length of the tube on the freehub side, and a 10mm hole about the same length/depth on the other end, the centre is as you say a restriction with a hole just big enough for a std. QR to slip through. What end caps are on it ?

egg and banana pizza 😆

Any tyre will do, but some do it better than others ! The best I have found so far at Llandegla are Black Chili Rubber Queens. The other thing that makes a big difference on hard pack like Llandegla, is tyre pressure. Now running 22-23 psi front, 31-33 rear. Whatever you run, just ride within its limits of grip, and enjoy the place. Its not technically challenging, but you can’t help enjoying it ( a bacon and egg bap at the cafe when you finish will only enhance the experience ) enjoy 😉

Adjustment 😕

“Driving to/from wifes work” ! was she driving ? Without sounding chauvinistic (OK mabe a little bit then). I drive everywhere faster than my wife (and to be fair, she is a good driver) but I get far more to the gallon than her. Driving style can release a lot more economy than than most people realise 8)

Alligator Aries 160 rotor 76g from here http://www.readytoridecycles.co.uk/ekmps/shops/rickhughes/images/aries-cat.jpg

Similar weight, BUT far cheaper. I am running 180/203 versions which are at least 20% lighter than Hope Floaters 8)

Dave Garland of Stendec Suspension (also CRC DH Team head mechanic) has many times when buying fork oil and other service bits, told me to discard the foam rings and fill space with his Super Fine Easy Glide Fork and Pivot Grease 😉

Had Kings, but got fed up with them marking steerer tubes, now got Hope and a pocket full of change 😀

Service is usually cheaper than repair 😉

My wifes bike (which gets used about twice a year) has Crossrides on it, and I seem to remember there being a spacer that came with them, that went on the freehub before the cassette. Its a bit like the one in the middle of a XT cassette, about 1.5mm thick. I have just had a look in the garage at her back wheel, and I can what looks like a thin spacer. Maybe you left it out when changing cassettes ! 😕

Oscillate….The 5 shock won’t give the same scenario as above. It has a 190×50 shock, with the 50 being the shock travel, and that is also the shaft length on the 5. Try setting your sag at 15mm (30%), that should put you in the ball park for getting the most out of it 😉

Bearings, no cones in Hope hubs. I think there are videos on’t web to help. Not difficult, and no special tools required 😉

Pads may have a spot of oil contaminating them, it doesn’t take much.

Warheads here too, 760mm on my 160, and they’re perfect 😉

If you had fitted my old Fox 200×50 shock and done the same thing, you still would have got full travel “OF 50mm”, but you would still have 7mm of shaft showing, because the shaft was 57mm 🙄

steve_b77….Very sorry but Very true.

Been there , had a shock like it :roll

If a shock has a shaft of 57mm, but the stroke is 50mm, then no amount of compression or jumping up & down, will go past 50mm.

The 2 shock dimensions I mentioned can and do look identical on the outside, but have two different travels.

zoolander….on the grey shock shaft (where the ‘O’ ring is), what is length of it ? (only the part where the dia. is the same all along). If it is 57mm, and your bike has a shock travel of 50mm, then you will not get the ‘O’ ring to the end. The shock dimensions 200×50 or 200×57 can be the same dimensions, at full length, but a 200×50 won’t get compress as far as a 200×57. Phew !!! where’S LoCo when you need him 😐

drunkenmonkey…going back to the air pressure loss. When you connect a shock pump, a portion of the high pres. air in the can has to fill the pump tube and the part of the gauge to register a pressure. Baring in mind, the shock hasn’t got a huge volume of very high pres. air to start with. It is normal to see a 20-30 psi loss when connecting a pump.

Has it had a service recently ? might be too much lube oil in the air can !. Or if its a 200 x 50 shock, it could have the same outer dimensions as a 200 x 57, which on a 200 x 50 would look like your not getting full travel. I hope that makes sense 😕

yep, take 3 outer links off. Doh ! that should have been an edit

yep

Wiggle had Marz 55 RC3 Ti’s for £457 just over a week ago, 8 pairs left then, but at that price there won’t be many, if any left.

The older I get, the better I was ! 8)

HughStew….thanks for your concern. I am calm (no doubt helped by a few bottles of old peculier). I can’t contact them until Monday. I don’t think the freepost envelope will be needed. I suspect after sending the photo’s, they will say “bin it”.

Kaesae…stick to packing bearings with grease, you’ll never make a detective 🙄

Junkyard…correct. I suspect the nearest this sprocket has seen to action, is being run over by a warehouse forklift truck.

Yep, Jiffy bag. Which I don’t have a problem with. But the fact that the damaged sprocket in its shredded plastic bag were put in the Jiffy bag like that, is what got me wound up.

I am well used to Royal Mail’s attempts at parcel destruction, but to be fair, it wasn’t their fault this time.

To be fair also to CRC, I have had no previous problems with, having ordered dozens of items in the past, with no issues.

jimjam…..I wasn’t sure if my 1st thread got pulled, or if i just forgot to press the post it button. Very obvious that it wasn’t damaged in transit, as the outer envelope was in perfect conditon, to do that much damage to a hard alloy sprocket would have caused noticable damage to the outer envelope. Not rocket science is it 🙄

Molgrips..lots of ND grads on ebay. I don’t make any claims to photographic expertise, but I find the ND grads the the filter I go for most often. I am not patient enough to sit enhancing photos on a PC, so getting a filter that does the job far quicker is better for me 8)

white101 what dia. filter are you after ?

molgrips…I though you were the photo guru ! UV filer for landscapes ? Plain glass or plastic, even cling film will protect against UV, but won’t enhance a picture

Renthals looking favourite , thanks fellas 8)

HT components make them for Superstar. Got two pairs running fine. Service is very easy. Check pins if you get some. I have lost a couple, and when I checked them all, they weren’t that tight.