Look to be genuine, great feedback. These are a relatively cheap pedal anyway. If you were going to make a fake pedal, you would be better off copying an expensive one (more profit in it) 😉

Front & rear Cruds & home made Neo guard out of a knackered BBS overshoe. I can’t see the sense in riding with a cold wet ar5se covered in mud, wearing away at my shorts and saddle, not to mention the extra weight in water/mud that I would end up carrying around stuck to my clothes 🙄

Cost me less than £200 to go 1×10…. XTR Shifter, XT Shadow mech, XT 11-36 Cassette, Sram 1050 chain, Middleburn chainring, ( with a bit of carefully researched bargain hunting ) and got almost half of that back by selling my old XT shifters, mechs and cassette. Plus saved over 1/2 pound in weight 8)

Unusual for drivers side tyre to wear more. More often passenger side wears slightly more, being the outside tyre when negotiating roundabouts, also when turning right out of junctions is a bigger radius than turning left, putting the N/S under more load/wear. 😕

I have been looking for this one for a while, cheers 😆

Hi jonke…Its about 2 years old, but has had very little use, which is the reason for selling. It was on my Alpine 160, which FOR 98% of the time I have owned it, has had the RP23 fitted. I neither have the skills or get to the places that would do a good coil shock justice 😳

jonke…I got a Ti RCS (Renton Coil Spring) 450 x 2.8 that I am about to sell, which should fit. It has just been taken off a Roco RC WC 215 X 63mm shock. It has an inside dia. of 36.3mm which is the correct size in/dia Cane Creek quote for the Double Barrel. Most springs out there are 35-6mm in/dia, and although some will fit the CCDB, they may bind or rub on the on the plastic wear sleeve (which I know is what its there for) not only effecting shock performance and wearing the inside of the spring, but worst of all it makes a bloody annoying noise. Which I found out when I fitted a Nuke Proof Ti spring to my CCDB.

Anyhow, the spring is pictured below, and along side a Marz 500 x 2.5 spring for length comparison. marz free length 146mm, RCS 151MM.
These retail for about £200, I want £95 (1st class rec.) If your interested. Good luck if your not 8)

Looking at it from an engineering point of view, as opposed to a cycle mechanics. I would measure the bearing outside diameter and the BB shell inner diameter. .001″-.0015″ (yes I am that old) interference fit should be about right for that size bearing.

Safety glasses and home made neo guard type thing here. The copy neo guard is by far the best defence from a face full of crap, cutting out about 90% or more of the s*1te the front tyre throws up. Also not too proud to use F&R Crud catchers. I had to laugh at Llandegla today when we got back to the cafe, there were more people who looked like miners than mountain bikers, covered from head to toe in cold /wet crap. Some of them must have doubled their body weight 8)

cheers Rick 😀

Clues on facebook, rules me out then 🙄

Not tried a 5 AM, but I do own a 2010 5 and Alpine 160, and although I am no trail god, I do prefer the 160. I am 5’10” and both are 18″, yet for some reason, I feel more comfy on the 160. Climbing wise, the 5 is lighter, but also more prone to the nose getting light (150 Revs) on steep bits. The 160 goes up anything at its own pace without drama. Its when you point them down that you notice the difference. The 5 is very good, the 160 is AWESOME.

Sticking 160 forks on a 5 will help it towards performing like an Alpine 160, but its a compromise !………shorter travel rear, not so good shock/travel ratio, and the split clamps on the bearings don’t help rear end rigidness either, all add up to a back end that will never cope a swell as the 160.

The only area I find the 5 better, is on twistier singletrack.

Just got back from Chester Millets, got the last Memorymap Adventurer 3500 GPS rduced from £380 to £228, Leatherman Skeletool for £30 and a pair of Brasher boots for £65. Merry Xmas 😀

If you do the old black runs, you will miss that bit bit of the red anyway, and have a lot more fun too 😉

Noddy likes them, but big ears thinks they’re unool 😆

When I got my 150 Rev Teams, I’m sure the “quoted” axle to crown difference was only 4mm compared to the old 140’s. Now you somebody with have to do all maths over again 😕

Check out those Kona Dawg Supreme Scandium frames on CRC. The geometry looks spot-on, and you will save yourself a few hundred notes too 8)

WD40 Will prevent a clean chain from rusting, but will also prevent a proper lube from sticking to the chain.

As far as lubes go, I have tried Purple Extreme, Juice Lube, Finish Line and a few more I can’t remember. But the best so far has been Green Oil, it seems to outlast others by quite a margin. Never been left with a dry chain yet, no matter what conditions I had ridden in. 8)

Stayed at Mabie House Hotel 1st week in October, 3 nights B&B for £79 per person. Great breakfast, as were all the evening meals too. Most of the rooms are very large (apart from bedroom #4). Mabie trail starts about 100yrds around the corner. Hoping to go back next year 🙂

Had a blast around the new stuff this morning, and it is a blast. Great stuff Llandegla. I especially liked the new red, a far more rewarding finish than the old one. I can now justify the bacon & egg bap at the cafe afterwards 🙂

Stendec do a range of viscosities from 2.5 upwards. Excellent oils, have been using them for 5 years now. Give Dave Garland (Mr Stendec) a ring on 01352 710999, he’s always been very helpful with suspension advice when Iv’e been stuck. 😉

My mate bought a wooden bike,
it wooden work 😀

Happening at Llandegla too. They seem to have cut down thousands in the last few weeks. Timber prices must be at an all time high. Hope they don’t cut down the cafe , there’s hundreds of logs in that 🙁

5 it is then. Cheers chaps.

Maplins do minature pliers cheap http://www.maplin.co.uk/box-joint-round-nose-pliers-219401 😉

Thanx so far guys, Inbred seems the top choice so far. Those CRC frames look great value, but out of stock for at least a month 🙂

shedbrewed…sounds good, BUT aren’t they for use with Alfine hubs ? I will be fitting conventional gears/rear mech etc. to the frame !

Allen, Bondhus, HaFu & Unbreako are all top makes I have used in industry over the last 35 years.

Not tried SS floaters, but just ordered an Ashima 180 Air Rotor from Merlin for £13.46 posted (thats with their VIP discount). Over 30% lighter than the SS rotor, SS=160g, Ashima=112g (both quoted weights for 180 size) 8)

j40aja Hope floaters aren’t light !. I sold mine after buying some Alligator Aries rotors, they were 20% light than Hope floaters 😉

How does the dog know he’s lost ? 😕

catsplums, sorry for the late reply re: which grease. The stuff I use is Mobilith SHC 007 Grease.

jameso…its thinner and runnier than normal grease, so it runs back into the freewheel ratchet and helps keep it quiet as well as lubed. Thick grease can get spread out leaving the freewheel nearly dry and NOISY 8)

Use a semi fluid grease, works a treat. Been using it for 3+ years on my Pro 2’s.

Send it to Kaesae, he will sort it 😀

Just started a Pre 65 Triumph Cub Trials project, not quite a mountain bike, but the only bike build on the go at the moment 8)

Tandems have a long frame warranty, 😆

Also seems like quite a lot of pres. for Revs. I am 92kg and have gone down to 85+ 90- on my 150 Rev Teams.

Elfinsafty….wot u been drinkin

trail rat…I had no idea that tool was available

Loose when fitted to the wheel, but when the wheel is fitted to the fork with maxle, they should be clamped tight 😉