I noticed my spelling mistake after uploading, thought I managed to upload the correct one before somebody noticed. Drat! :lol:

There must be someone on here that works at a printers that can help. I’ve had quotes of £20-40 for strip and powder, worth having a look. You may as well do it now the ball is rolling, I want to see the final frame :D

I don’t mind updating it until the design is sorted. I could do with some dimensions for the final design. Also I was thinking the frame could be done like the Robin Reliant, and have the Dialled Bikes logo in the Trotters Independent Traders font (or close to it).

Thats the picture I was looking at for the headbadge simon1975! :mrgreen:

I was bored so knocked something up for you, you have to have an Uncle Ablert face as the headbadge I think :P.

It’s not all perfectly aligned and the font is wrong, before any moaners pipe up (only took a few mins). It’s a starting point though.

Whats putting you off the Planet X frames?. I’ve had my 456 for over a year and have had no issues with that and it rides really well. I’ve heard the same from the road frames too. The way I look at it is the Planet-X stuff is cheap carbon with the reassurance of a 2 year warranty and hopefully a higher level of quality control than some of the Chinese eBay stuff.

If you look at this photo you’ll also notice there is no webbing on the back of the arch like you get on the tougher fox forks (helps with stiffness and strength).

I reduced a set of Float 140mm to 100mm last week, it was very straight forward (was doing a strip/clean/oil service on them anyway). They are up for sale but are quick release, not thru axle.

They offer the travel spacers in various sizes, if you want to bring a 140mm down to 100mm you just get 40mm of spacers. http://www.mojostore.co.uk/acatalog/Travel-Spacers.html

Thanks for the update natrix. Any rough dates on the rest/new ones?, I wouldn’t mind booking a weekday off work in time for the new trails being ready to ride.

I was up there a few weeks ago, most of the trails I normally ride were closed but being updated so I figured they just meant rideable tracks when they were talking mileage. Are they signposting trails now, to keep people away from stuff they shouldn’t be riding?.

I’ll have to book a weekday off work to give it a go when it’s done, looked like the new surface was going to take a while to dry out and firm up.

As said above, saddle to far back (frame too small?, use a longer stem?) so has been rubbing under flex. As for wearing the clamp and not the saddle it might have been from grit catching under the saddle and acting as a grinding paste, found that with cable rub on frames after a few wet gritty rides when I’ve not bothered fitting helitape.

Edit:\all mentioned above. D’oh :roll:

I didn’t like them when I had a look at a friends, missing things I had on my OSM. I’ve not found anything missing yet, but that might depend on the area, some peoples data input might not be as good as others. Get the bundle if the price is right.

As mentioned above the Stans are generally lighter for the same level of rim and tubeless ready with the rim strips.

Weight saving is down to loosing the eyelets, I think materials have moved on enough to do this and I haven’t had any issue there. They’ve also gone for wider shallower rims with shallower sidewalls, saves a bit more weight without compromising on strength and produces better tyre profile for tyres most people run nowadays.

I haven’t had any issues fitting tyres (always make sure it sits right in the middle of the well when fitting) and found the bead seats easily if you put them up to about 40psi and let them back down to the desired pressure.

All my Mavic on Pro2 are now Stans on Pro2. Never had a wheel failure but fancied lighter wheels with easy tubeless option.

I didn’t bother with an OS map card, they aren’t the quality you’d expect from OS maps to be honest. I use maps from the link below, they are based on Open Street Maps which is the Wiki of the map world (from what I remember), I’ve found even the smallest of tracks are on there where as the OS map was lacking a lot and wasn’t as clear to look at.

http://talkytoaster.co.uk/ukmaps.htm

The BBC news story says 34 miles down to 15 miles. Are we losing anything worth mentioning?, i’m guessing a lot of that is unnamed tracks?.

Even if it was a total accident out of the drivers control they’ve left the scene possibly before they were dead. Only to hand themselves in when they’ve realized that they can’t get away with it. They have to come down pretty hard on this incident.

Very sad to here things like this, can’t imagine what it’s like for the families and friends.

I left my triple in the 90s (changed early 00s) and I haven’t regretted it.

For the amount of time i’d spend in the big ring it wasn’t worth the extra maintenance, annoying slapping\dropping chain and spinning out at 40mph with 36×11 downhill is plenty. I also found myself at the wrong end of the cassette on technical stuff, either middle ring with a slack chain, or outer ring and far too high up the cassette.

The way I look at it is most riding and fun is at lower speeds (10-25mph), as long as my gearing gets me up the steepest hill I ride, nice increments on technical stuff, and spins out over 30mph on descents then that’s enough.

Don’t spikes take the fun away?. I left my Small Block 8s on with around 10psi in them, loads of fun :)

Today and yesterday, lovin it :)
My potentially nice photos come out as blurry messes, iPhone and thick gloves don’t work so well.

Just ride them in crap conditions\weather, wet dirty gritty crud will sort them out in no time. Which conveniently are the most common riding conditions in the UK :P

I would go with a Chris King, if cost is the issue then get a decent used one for £40-£50, it will last years before it’s needs anything doing to it. Hope is a good alternative otherwise.

Never had the steerer damage issue with my Kings in 6 years of using them on different bikes (no DH bikes though).

You can home service them whilst they’re in the frame…. http://chrisking.com/tech/tech_headsets
-With the point of a knife lift the metal ring and rubber seal very carefully
-Flush out the old crap with degreaser
-Re-grease
-Re-fit seals

You can send them to the UK Chris King importer Evolution Imports if you want them ultra sonic cleaned etc. Doesn’t need to go to the US.

It’s not all non-bike related rant/doom/gloom threads ;)

***Just realized how old the thread is after writing the post. D’oh!. I’ll post anyway as someone might find it useful.

Small amount of grease for the headset cups.

I use nothing on the post, different brands have different views on carbon prep\fibre grip and some have gone from saying do use to don’t. I always try without and if there’s no slippage then I don’t use it. I always make sure I give the seatpost and seat tube a wipe down after a wet ride to get rid of any water or crud.

It’s worth helitaping so you don’t get any excessive rubbage as that’s one thing carbon isn’t very resistant to. Not just on the rack but cable rub is especially bad on wet rides when the bike gets covered in gritty mud. And it’s On One paint so it wont stay on for long otherwise ;)

I wasn’t expecting a lot from my C456, I bought it out of curiosity but I absolutely love it. Fast up and down, nice and stable, very comfy once the setups dialed, yes it’s ugly but I forget about that when i’m riding it. Enjoy! :)

I’ve not had any issues with the 10 plus Hope Hubs I’ve had over the years, XC, Bulb or Pro2. The Bulbs were used for about 5 years (and second hand). My oldest Pro 2 are about 6 years old and still fine.

I had a floating rotor with a tiny bit of play, a seat clamp crack and headset cup with a tiny crack, all were sorted without any issues. I’ve probably had about 30-40 Hope components over the years so I don’t think 3 problems is bad going, the rotor is the only one that definitely wasn’t caused by me in any way.

Always worth contacting them if you have any issues.

Pretty shocking read really. Two immediate thoughts are the guy in the car can’t have looked properly especially with his illegally tinted windows (windscreen must let at least 75% of light through and the front side windows 70%, BBC said he had 17% visibility), and the buss driver must have been too close to hit the guy on the bike.

It’s pretty sad how us cyclists generally feel like second class citizens as soon as we get on a bike. The same abuse and treatment from motorists wouldn’t be tolerated in any other scenario. If a motorist is involved in an incident would it not be beneficial to get them on a bike for a period of time to get a cyclists perspective. I’m not saying cyclist don’t cause incidents or create there own problems but it seems to lean toward the motorists in most cases.

Exactly what Rorschach just said.

There is a barcode on the rim. If you give this to Mavic tech support the can trace exactly what model year it is.

Mavic seem to faff around changing things all the time, which is probably why nobody bothers stocking there spokes or spares. They make nice wheels but i’d rather be able to get spares easily, and i’m not a fan of alloy spokes or nipples as they seize (had same issue truing my mates Crossmax).

Lezyne “Smart Kit” is £3 and comes with 6 adhesive tube patches and 1 tyre boot.

Had 8 for just over a year with no probs, and my 11 is about a year old with no problems.

Some of my findings listed below, both are on MTB’s so it’s not 100% relevant to you but might help.

Negative
– Adds 2-3lbs extra weight compared to my previous geared setup on the same bike.
– Maybe some drag at very low speeds(steep climbs), not 100% sure on that though.
– Cable pull has to be 100%, no kinks in cable or grit between cable and cable gully on hub.
– Gear range and steps might be too limited for some (okay for me once I got used to it)

Positive
– Nice and quiet
– Stays very clean compared to derailleur
– Runs consistently in all conditions.
– Shifting when not peddling is useful (lights, on more technical sections when pedaling isn’t ideal, sudden changes in speed)
– Accelerates better under high torque than my derailleur once I got the feel of it.

Alfine really doesn’t fair well for a the car park test but once you’ve used it properly it makes sense, don’t like my 9×2 XTR as much when I ride my other bike TBH. It definitely could be better but that just takes time.

Surprised to see a new Cannondale like that, any decent LBS would have sent that straight back before it got to the customer. One of the hazards with buying online. Insist on a refund (or at least a replacement) and see if there’s any decent local deals, saves hassle in the long run.

A bunch of us “dreaming-tyres” do casual rides tuesday evenings locally, thursdays sometimes head further out, and always people out at the weekend. Friendly bunch of people just riding for the fun of it with a broad mix of bikes, normally at least 5+ people out every week. I stumbled upon them a few months back and they are happy for new people to come along.

PM\email if you want :-)

Dead on 6ft but I think I have a long reach.

18″ with Thomson layback, 80mm stem 700mm bars. Set up for all day comfort.

Halo Aerowarriors (in 26 or 29) look pretty smart, I’m loving the look of full polished wheels at the moment, I just don’t have the right bike for them!. Couldn’t find a pic of them in a bike.

Cheers jameso, the 853 version should drop a smidgen off that too. Does anyone have the full bike weight for the Alfine 11 version?. I’m guessing it’s going to be 25+ lbs, I think I would be tempted to go OTT and replace most of it to get the weight down a bit and the look I want (retro modern). Would be nice if it was available as frame only.

I run Pikes at 130mm, just feels like the sweet spot to me. Front end is low enough not to wonder on climbs, there’s enough to soak things up when it gets more technical and it handles a bit better. Anything 120-150mm should be fine though, travel adjust would be ideal if it’s in budget.

I don’t suppose anyone has the real weight for the Day01 Alfine 11? (58cm if possible). It’s currently on the “what bike next?” (ever growing) shortlist.

I’ve been looking at the Cannondale CAADX Disc but the Day01 would be usable for commuting and touring as well as some CX.

How does it compare with lighter weight CX bikes off road?

I’m about 90kg with gear. XC hardtail has Small Block 8s Front:20-30psi Rear:25-35psi (depending on conditions\trail). I’ve found it’s a nice compromise with low profile tread and low pressure. It rolls fast, grips and conforms well and is forgiving on rougher sections.

AM bike has Nevagals with similar pressure. I’ve found some nobblys roll better on hard surfaces at lower pressure too, I think it’s because the nobbles recess back a bit giving a flatter contact area.

To be honest it’s all down to preference, do some experimenting and go with whats feels right for you.

I use an 800 with TalkieToaster maps and bikeroutetoaster.com to plot rides. TalkieToaster maps are freeware so all you need is a memory card and a few minutes of your time. I’ve been using it for about a year and it’s worked fine, I haven’t felt the need to buy any map packs :)

I sometimes head to Swinley, it can be ridden on anything at any skill level and be fun. There’s various trails but ideally you need an idea of where stuff is as there’s no signage guiding you. You can get there via train plus riding in about 90mins (I don’t have a car), or an hour drive if I remember right.

Paddington Train> Change Reading> Waterloo Train> Off at Martins Heron> 2 mile ride to the Lookout… if anyone’s wondering.

Cheers, sorted now. I’ll see how it goes :)

Lovin the tandem MTB’s, wouldn’t like to be on the back not in control though :D

Most of my current lineup. Need to get out and ride them more though :(

Bled my XTR Trails (like new model SLX) via the funnel + some tubing into a pot at caliper end (to catch the old stuff).

Fit the funnel put some oil in, fit tube to caliper end. Then open bleed nipple and pump lever, close bleed nipple and pump lever and repeated until there were no bubbles and lever felt firm with minimal travel. Didn’t use a syringe but you can do.

Just follow the video :)

Lovin the yellow! :D

With 1k I would go for a hardtail, you will get more for your money and it will cost less in the long run. I love my full sus but I could quite happily go back to hardtails only. Get the right hardtail and you wont regret it.

Most shops do cycle scheme, go to a decent local shop and have a look at what they have\can get. You can’t go wrong with Trek\Cannondale\Specialized\Giant, they all do good quality bikes for the money and you’ll find it easy to get feedback\reviews on them.

You need to find out what brands you can get, shortlist whats in budget, see what actually grabs your attention. Once you’ve whittled it down to 3 or 4 bikes then it’s probably worth asking for feedback on particular models and test ride them if you can.

My mate bought a Cannondale Trail SL1 recently, he wanted an alrounder hardtail for around 1k. He loves it so far, he’s normally a bike snob (spends 3-4k a bike) but he just wanted something for the winter that he didn’t feel the need to mother too much.

Another yes. Fox Talas

160 – Downs
130 – Jumps (weight and position feels a bit more balanced)
100 – Longer climbs (front lifts or wanders on 160)

I find I tend to set my Pikes before I set off and don’t touch them, the Fox I just do on the fly, same with the Pro pedal lever on the rear shock and my droper post.