The Unit takes a 100mm Sus fork, downtube kinked for clearance and 44mm head tube for versatility. Rear wouldn’t take a 3 inch tyre though.

No reason you can’t get an 11spd cassette on the same HG freehub, but current Deore comes in 4100 10 speed options at decent prices, though it might be a different cable pull than old Shimano ten speed, but no matter if you’re replacing the lot.

Spesh Chisel, by all accounts a great ride, and even though it’s ‘only’ alu, the frame is 1350g. I’d find the best spec for the money, as inevitably the bigger brand specs aren’t the best on that front. Sonder do C2W so you could always go for a ti Broken road XT, not an XC race bike per se though. As above, if it’s cyclescheme then you can get Canyon through that, and their spec/value has always been v good.

Well first thing is to check your company knows that the £1k limit no longer applies, so your budget may be bigger. My work has Halfords Cycle2work and a £3k limit, so pretty decent options. Yes, you can get anything on Tredz including wheels, tyres, clothing, drivetrain, brakes etc. But also, lots of independent shops if you check their website, and also any other online retailer that accepts C2W vouchers, like Alpkit/Sonder and Biketart to name two that I remember. This probably opens up choices!

Waxed MTB plus fours for the winter, surely!

Not a regular swapper, but do play around with 700c and 650b on the gravel bike. Less bothered doing it in winter when I have mudguards fitted and they need moving.

Two young kids under 5 so depends what time I have spare. Distance and speed is based on where I fancy going (95% from the door) and on what bike mtb/gravel. Climbing is whatever it ends up being based on the above. I honestly don’t care about much else other than getting out, enjoying the ride and scenery. I’ll still get a good workout and go fast when I feel like it, but it’s purely when I fancy. All-in it keeps me fit-ish for the limited time I have to look after my own needs!

As great value and versatile as the Kona Unit is, and even though geometry is similar, it’s not quite the same as the other XC bikes suggested. I’ve got a Unit X and love many things about it, but the one thing it isn’t, is light and whippy in the way i’d like an XC bike to be. Mine’s built up with a mix of old XTR/SLX/XT and I think i’d need to go for some pretty light wheels to make it feel fleet-footed for speedy XC. Even then it wouldn’t feel as nimble as some others mentions, I think. Having said that, it is ideal for doing a bit of anything all year round, but i’ve been keeping half an eye on XC frames with similar geometry, but in a lighter package – hence interest in this thread!

I’ve a unit X and use Mezcal 2.6 on the front and Bonty XR2 rear, which speed things up a bit and the weights are pretty decent for the size. Both available in smaller sizes.
I’ve also looked at smaller XC tyres for speed and light off-road like you suggest (not for winter mud-plugging) and thought of the following:
Maxxis Crossmark ii 2.25
£££ Teravail Rutland 29 x 2.2
Hutchinson Kraken 2.3
Pirelli Scorpion XC RC 2.2 or 2.4
Michelin Force or Jet XC2
Goodyear Peak 2.25
Specialized Fast Trak or Renegade?

Mudgaurds – I’ve got VO ones on my gravel bike and they’re brilliant. Not too heavy, quiet, superb coverage, nice fitting.

Interesting, but I don’t think the 27.2 seat tube is a bad thing, plenty of dropper choices and I guess a bigger diameter wouldn’t have gone with the rest of the carefully tuned tubeset – too stiff? I’m a bit sceptical of the T47 but reading around it more, it seems OK and offers full compatibility and at least it’s still threaded rather than push fit. Adds a bit more faff making sure you have the right axle cups etc., but not a deal breaker.

I think fairlight are going to be offering complete builds of the Holt sometime next year, which makes it very tempting for a cycle 2 work deal if it comes in under £3k!

I’m in a similar position in that i’ve mistakenly ditched a more traditional xc trail bike (Parkwood 29er, previously Rock Lobster 853), and dabbled in a few things but not found quite what I want. I think bikes like the Solaris have become more hardcore and the current SolarisMAX is not what I would want. I’ve been thinking on this a good while and the current options are what have been mentioned already – not too LLS, not too heavy, and not necessarily steel. Modern XC race bikes seem to fit the bill a fair bit now too…

Fairlight Holt
Sonder Broken Road
Stanton Sherpa
Spesh Chisel
Scott Scale?
Cotic Cascade sized up to run rigid

Currently ride a Kona Unit X with my own fairly nice build on it. It handles well and I like it, and the geo is pretty spot on, but it’s pretty darned heavy and fairly stiff, it doesn’t have that zippyness which I do miss.

I’d back up what tinas and Jameso have said about 650b, it’s a good option to have and it has benefits for a gravel bike. I’ve found that once 700c tyre volume gets a bit too chunky, it feels more ponderous on and off road. 650×47 does feel like a good size, as it feels fun and zippy off road and still reasonably responsive and fast rolling on road. I keep them on most of the time now, but I tend to have some off road on almost all gravel bike rides..

Keep looking for Kona Unit frames, they should all have adjustable dropouts. Also Singular cycles frames, all have EBBs, though much rarer but some come up. Think if you go with a tensioner you’ll open up your options a great deal, there’ll be plenty more frames in your size to choose from…

I’ve been wondering about this but for simplified navigation cues only. Happy to keep my phone in a pocket recording and check a map when needed, but thought a nice simple little screen with a breadcrumb trail or similar would be good. I saw this in an advert but not sure if it would work that well at more off road navigation and 11 hours isn’t enough battery, but I like the principle:

Beeline Velo 2

I’ve done about 1300 miles on my V3 which I got as a frameset and swapped most bits over from my old Arkose. I really rate it for its versatility and good handling. It’s not there to replace a hardtail, but it excels at mixed terrain routes and makes tarmac pleasurable enough. I’ve tried lots of tyre combos but actually prefer 650×47 as you get some tyre volume and off road grip but it also remains quite nimble and nippy, which I didn’t find with 700×50. As others have said, get the GRX hydros if you can, seems a great value build.

The Cotic Cascade is very much a drop bar 29er, so not directly comparable. I’d expect that to be more capable off road but a bit more of a chore on road. They do look nice, but full build not the greatest value.

Done 1300miles with SLX 11-40 cassette running grx400 rear mech as 1×11 speed, no link needed. Any larger might need it, and sunrace mech extender for £9 better value than wolf tooth stuff. Works well without issue.

Alexandera Houchin rides actual mountains as well as crushing continents/Tour Divide on a SS:

Alexandera Houchin’s Record 2022 Colorado Trail Race Finish

Ditto with the Bell Sidetracked helmets, my 2 and 4 year old love theirs, and they fit really well and the buckle stops chin pinching for chubby necked ones!

I’ve had similar thoughts after building up a new scandal a while ago and not liking it. Still prefer slack-ish, not too long, reasonably low feel. That seems to cover all my bases, and remains fun at trail centres and mountains. Sherpa and Fairlight Holt seem to hit the sweet spots, though the Holt is understandably v. expensive.

Ended up settling on a Kona Unit X frame that i’ve built up fairly light, 68 HA, 75 SA, which seems steep for pedalling, but it doesn’t feel it. Doesn’t need a silly short stem. I’ve kept mine rigid because I prefer that, but it’ll take a 100mm fork. Or why not go semi-custom and get something nice from Curtis or similar?

Still lust after a cannondale hooligan, but resale prices are silly…

Looks good, nice to see the old style dekerf inspired seatstays. Can’t help thinking the fork needs to be a steel one with a few mounts for all round practicality…

I’ve had a Maxalami twister tubeless tool and spare worms in my axle for a couple of years now, hasn’t moved and convenient when needed (which it’s not been yet!). Wouldn’t want anything that’s too faffy to take in or out though.

there’s a fair bit of variation in terrain along it’s length, and while there’s plenty of easy gravel track a 29er might seem like overkill for, there are also a fair few rutted and bumpy sections and the ground is as hard as iron at the moment. I’d go for XC and fast tyres for a bit more comfort and control.

Can vouch for Unit’s dropouts too, not used them SS but rock solid. Also, the XL frames will be longer than XL longitude too.

Slightly leftfield option is the Salsa Timberjack Al frame, has ‘swinger’ dropouts so can be SS’d think there might be some availability: https://keeppedalling.co.uk/bikes/salsa-cycles/timberjack/
It’s aluminium and has more trail geometry than a longitude, but would certainly do a good job – and relatively affordable at £505 for a frame.

Otherwise, Kona Unit or Unit X (SS dropouts readily available from Kona), an older 2nd hand SS Inbred 29er, they pop up occasionally. Stooge has the Rambler and Scrambler out this year I believe, with EBBs. Otherwise you’re at the mercy of whatever pops up second hand, or using a tensioner on a normal frame..?

EDIT: Another random, more trail like bike is the Pipedream Sirius which has sliding dropouts, so SS would be easy. Some stock of frames depending on size…

Going far south, the ride along Nine Barrow down from Corfe, then down and up along Ballard down towards old Harry rocks. Not high or pointy, but fabulous views and prominence from the surrounding landscape. Ballard down ends up with the sea a long way down to one side and stunning views to the Isle of Wight.

Good price for the vittoria tyres!

Must be something up with my watch, as all it does is remind me i’m irrevocably average, and just a few boring Teams calls away from full ‘grey man’ status. #lifegoals

Always admired chameleons, and only ever made sense to me as a frame. ‘starting from just £2399’ I hear you chuckle!

Top marks to Santa cruz brand and marketing team as they completed this years challenge: ‘make maximum profit from the limited stock of alloy frames we can get this year…’

Echoing what others have said really: I tend to ride at night on the road a fair bit in the winter, as it’s often the only chance I get to go out riding. I don’t always enjoy it, but when I do go i’m glad i’ve not done a turbo session.

– Definitely avoid busy roads as much as possible, I stick to very quiet lanes and gravel tracks that hold up OK in winter. You don’t need to think about speed, just enjoy being out and you’ll see plenty of wildlife!

– I find i’m more visible at night and oncoming cars are more cautious on narrow lanes because they’re not sure if you’re a motorbike.

– If you haven’t got a road beam on your light, try and angle it slightly left to prevent dazzle and it helps you keep to the edge a bit. I have an exposure toro that i’ve adjusted at the mount to point left a bit, and I think this helps. Getting the light mounted lower helps too, you get more definition and shadows to see the surface.

– mudguards essential, and go tubeless if you can, will save faffing with a puncture in the muck and dark. I’m happy using wider gravel tyres as i’m not a speed merchant or roadie, so easy to find tubeless tyres of a larger size. There’s enough sh!te on the roads in winter that the extra grip and rolling resistance is no bother.

just seen that inserts are readily available, anyone know if it’s available with threaded BB as standard? Also, is it for 100mm fork? I have a exotic monocoque carbon fork that might go well with this :-)

Cor, liking the look of these! If you can choose 142×12 and a threaded BB then i’m very tempted indeed. Ideal for my southern XC/trail mtb life….

I think the paint finish of choice will be home rattle can!

I feel your pain a bit with the whole direct mount and 96mm bcd thing – worse with offset bcd on road cranks! Partly due to availability and price of chainrings, but also I dislike the idea of direct mount because of the waste of material you have to chuck away once worn. I get that it’s more secure/less faff than 4 bolts, but that’s countered by not being able to change a ring without removing the crank (granted not difficult, but still..). Sorry this is of no help to your situation and more of a general rant!

I think 96bcd will be available for a while, and if you scour ebay then there are lots of cheaper options for chainrings, though less choice of non-narrow/wide rings so maybe more searching. Probably worth taking a punt on the M8000 and finding rings to be honest, and stocking up if you do find them. Maybe 11 speed could be the long term aim, but now is not a good time for finding reasonably priced shifters/mechs (or anything!), let alone available to buy.

My XC/Trail Unit. Does pretty well, though no real need for a dropper where I live. Do hanker for a Stooge though!

Woodspeen is spitting distance to snelsmore common, which is fun to explore. Again, south side of greenham has good trails, and upper buckleberry area and woods around there are nice. It is mainly woodsy XC riding around here, but I like it.

Newbury velo is a new club that seems to cater for different types of riding so might be worth contacting them.

Very few rigid framesets will be specific to normal 650b, most are 29er/650b+…stanton sherpa can be frame only and you’d have to source a fork, but you can choose rear dropout width. Would also suggest a Kona Unit frameset 2nd hand, again comes with multiple dropouts only the more recent ones are boost.

Just my opinion, but you don’t need to go too slack for a ‘proper’ trail rigid bike, as there’s no need to compensate for fork compression making the HA steeper. Just get one that takes a dropper, and limitations will be down to tyres and skills!

The Soma Gator bars are drop bars that take mtb levers on the drops and brifters on the bend. 400g. But, apparently the drops are too deep unless you put the bar really high, and no hood position obviously if you use mtb controls (i guess you could get cane creek stoker stubby levers?).

I love the idea of the corner bar and the options it opens up, and quite like it’s odd looks, but it is monstrously heavy and the UK price a bit of a p1ss take.

Aaah, I think it might be the difference between the Al and the Ti – I was thinking the Al, but the ti does have full carbon and cage mounts…

The Sonder camino V3 still has an alloy steerer I think – mine does at least! Superb bike, but not really a swift road bike, even with lighter wheels – but I love the way it rides and its versatility. The Sonder Colibri AL frameset at £399 is more their ‘roadpacking’ frame that copes with lighter off road and 36mm tyres or 32mm with mudguards, and 3 x bottle cage mounts. Full carbon fork and a bit lighter than the Camino. It looks awesome value for a more road focused bike tbh…