I’d agree on trying to minimise trail damage, but on some bridleways it’s not possible or being on a bike is less intrusive than hooves! Also think about riding different trails that hold up better over winter. Otherwise just maintain your bike and replace worn out bits.

When comparing with the swift, worth remembering that comes with a fork! Pretty sure they’re Taiwanese made.

That’s really jumped in price. I believe the Holt is made in Europe too but squeaks in at 999 (for now). You can get a Curtis for a few hundred more. I love the look and idea of the new Solaris but it’s way out of my league. Be interesting to see the new pace, and of it’s an xc machine, also possibly made in Europe…

From Frizzell’s to Arse Butter millionaire (in pennies?). Enjoy it all. Still have a ‘toughen up princess’ sticker on my town bike.

I agree, the Hudski looks really good, and it has a really good balance of geometry nuances that set it apart from rigid 29ers and flat bar gravel bikes. The alloy frame is a key point too, something light but practical and specific for it’s design purpose. Very different to a 3kg Big Bro or Surly. The boardman looks pretty good, as long as the tyre clearance is good. Though I don’t see the value of 30mm of suspension for the extra expense, put that’s just my preference.

They’ve been overpriced for a very long time, so they needed to be cheaper! Ragleys still a better deal than the scandal though…

Any idea on release date then Kelvin? If not much cheaper than a Holt i’m guessing 853 and European made? My interest is piqued for now…seat and chainstays look fairly skinny, which I like..!

be nice if it was more XC, like the colour! Be nice if it was similar (but cheaper) than the Fairlight Holt or New Solaris…

I wouldn’t do it with that small a bolt and thread, or on that bit of the frame. I’d stick with using the proper axle.

@bikesandboots i also run a Kona Unit X, it’s my only mtb. I’ve been refining the best setup combinations over the past couple of years, and it’s now in a place where it’s comfortable for long rides on all kinds of terrain. Worth saying I still find it a fairly chunky frameset, and it’s not that compliant.

– The Unit has a fairly low stack, so getting the bars to a comfortable height needs some focus. I’ve found Stooge Moto bars really good for getting higher and having nice sweep (tried SQlabs30x16 which didn’t rise enough), paired with Ergon GE3 grips. The grips are excellent and not too extreme.

– There’s room to play about with longer forks. I have a pair of carbon exotic forks with a/c of 490mm and they feel much more comfortable the the steel P2s, plus they increase the stack height of the frame a bit.

– Tyres: 2.6 front and rear mostly, on 30mm rims, sometimes down to 2.35/2.4 when I want more speed on easier terrain. I know it’s a faff with mudguards and rack, but you’ll reap the benefits of a bigger tyres. And tweak pressure downwards until it feels right, small increments make a surprising difference in comfort.

– as Jameso said, put the saddle back not forward

Yep, gunsmoke was always my favourite. The green and gold also looked good. I’ve seen a fair bit of old red hope stuff that is now light pink. Bring back salsa rasta skewers!

P-clips would probably be the cheapest solution, or things like these to give you a bolt hole:

https://www.bikemonger.co.uk/king-cage-universal-support-bolt-13367-p.asp?_=&variantid=19066&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2qKmBhCfARIsAFy8buLCbmw8fQj7JoAwU8bSyXFXjcxWlPwc5z8sUSI8V2TJG2Gw2QtdUwkaAg4MEALw_wcB (depending on fork tube size)

https://www.condorcycles.com/products/elite-vip-bottle-cage-clamps?accid=13209&clickref=jkp_Cj0KCQjw2qKmBhCfARIsAFy8buLnlR8iIoAD38QF1vwB-4P7jEmGdQQ_FjN8HXKvqlD8aE9BFfzs8U8aAmMoEALw_wcB&cpn=18959149833&devi=c&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2qKmBhCfARIsAFy8buLnlR8iIoAD38QF1vwB-4P7jEmGdQQ_FjN8HXKvqlD8aE9BFfzs8U8aAmMoEALw_wcB&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2qKmBhCfARIsAFy8buLnlR8iIoAD38QF1vwB-4P7jEmGdQQ_FjN8HXKvqlD8aE9BFfzs8U8aAmMoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclsrc=aw.ds&locp=1006946&nw=x&ruid=3715361248383166327&sadt=pla&siteid=1295665&source=webgains&url=https%3A%2F%2Fclickserve.dartsearch.net%2Flink%2Fclick%3Flid%3D58700008176446401&utm_campaign=nmpi&utm_content=generic&utm_medium=css&utm_source=bybuybye&utm_term=generic&variant=36247578506&wgc=1295665&wgp=281345

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/universal-bottle-cage-mount-anywhere/_/R-p-X8748971?mc=8748971&utm_term=8748971-4638195&&iv_=__iv_p_1_g_140898324911_c_605548143539_w_aud-1024622613992:pla-309168562543_n_g_d_c_v__l__t__r_x_pla_y_15177021_f_local_o_8748971-4638195_z_GB_i_en_j_309168562543_s_650_e__h_1006946_ii__vi__&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2qKmBhCfARIsAFy8buI_HcLTlSBNaPOKd88T1JvTUnwVyzU7ODM6sPb0tt2Gp_W26F5KEN0aAvtvEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

It’s an interesting one, i’d like to try the ‘old school’ geometry to see how it feels. I can see how it might work for its intended purpose, and fair play to Singular for sticking to their principles and what works. Only downsides for my preferences, are long chainstays (presumably for large tyre clearance) and 3 pack mounts angled inward. Fine for bottle cages but less so for cargo/dry bags.

Price seems about right for a low-volume UK based brand. Triple butted 4130 will be not far off 853 for tube wall thickness and weight, and it looks similarly ‘unashamedly XC’ as the Holt, though obviously the Holt has more modern geometry. Also, the price includes the fork, which is good. But it would also be nice to know the weight of a frameset if you’re dropping the best part of a grand on it though – even if it’s not a deciding factor.

The bike designer isn’t Brant, it’s Neil Sutton I believe….

No, that mech won’t work. You’ll need the right GRX mech for that (RX812 is 1x specific), the Ultegra RX only slightly more capacity than your 105 and not up to 46t probably even with a link range extender. Oval rings tend to feel like a slightly smaller ring than it is, but not bigger, so you’d still need 2 rings. But as others have said, if you’re doing road and alps too, i’d stick with what you have. Much better spread of gears for road hills. I run 1x on my gravel bike but i don’t do much pure road riding; but wouldn’t want that for alp climbs, when you need to find just the right cadence at the low end, which on a 1x is where you have the biggest jumps.

maybe slightly harder than normal, but 50psi is insanity!

I’d stick with the old ones for now if they’re good and life left in them. I’ve got a pair of XTR M988 levers and calipers that i’ve been using on my main bike for 6-7 years now (bought used). I have no plans to update as they’re brilliant and I have enough spares to keep them going for a good while. Brakes are good to be able to trust, right?!

Fairlight Holt is a good option, I really lust after one as it’s skinny xc and custom tubing, but works well as a rigid…not sure if it has mudguard mounts though

Do like mine (bought off here), use it for similar general off road miles, and good fun on single-track too. It is quite hefty, but with the right tyres and lightish wheels it feels good. Put full guards on too for a short time…

I quite dislike bar bags, having tried various set-ups. Just don’t like the interference with cables, and the steering being affected. I’m another that keeps a frame bag on the bike all the time, and it’s great. Enough room to stuff some clothes or food in, and is quiet and you don’t feel it. Doesn’t get in the way of bottles or anything. Alpkit, Restrap, Camel Chops all good suggestions for reasonable sixed bags. Wizard works seem really bloody expensive, as nice as they are.

I recently got a pair of these and they’re very nice. Those intend aeros look lovely too:

Bad ones are garish colours and eccentric shapes and drilling patterns

I’m just about to put a RX4 on the front of my gravel bike, on RS685s. The caliper has been sitting there for ages for me to do it, these bleed woes aren’t particularly encouraging! I’ve got to fit new bars and tape too, so perhaps I can get the free-moving lever trick done. Part of me is also considering just using a shimano 4-pot mtb caliper, or just sticking with the deore calipers I already have, which have been very good indeed!?

The Bikeyoke Divine SL is very light and duly expensive, comes in 3 drops and can be cut to length too to shave weight. Don’t have one, but is on the lightweight XC dropper list…

If you must have Alu, other frames worth considering are Santa Cruz Chameleon and Salsa Timberjack Al. Difficult to get hold of either, but both adaptable and bikepacking friendly, but don’t think they’d really give you much over the Scandal, other than a few mounts and some branding!

The sigma looks nice. Fenrir is also an Otso ti bike…
Fenrir Ti

My early timber bell has worn out too, and rather than get another one that will eventually do the same, I just got a Granite cricket bell. The tinkle sound when ‘on’ permanently is quieter than the timber, but I tend to just use the ping instead and it’s handy to have 2 options. Also more compact on the bars too.

You can spec a more regular drop bar when you go into customise options when buying anyway. I’ve a V3 Al Camino and it’s a great bike. As for the Ti weight difference I wouldn’t worry, it’s more about ride quality and durability of the frame finish and the warranty is decent. From my experiences on the AL frame, it rides really well and is compliant – it’s not harsh in the least. The current iteration with a bit slacker geometry looks like the perfect evolution of the bike to me, and as ever they’re cracking value.

Well my entire bike history and general build philosophy generally relies on ‘cheap’ frames as they often give incredible value. I do add nice parts to them, but they are often ‘old’ but good (think XTR M988 brakes, SLX M665 chainset, XT 1×10).

On-One Parkwood – rode brilliantly and very versatile
Sonder Camino Al – current frameset was actually shop soiled so discounted to £190. Great riding and super versatile bike.
Rock Lobster 853 – got an end of line one for £170 on sale in 2004, rode it non-stop for 7 years and it was lovely.

I’d personally not want to do the full distance on canal, but as said, the attributes of canals can be the attraction and a distraction at the same time. They are fabulous as corridors through the country, and I’d be looking to link canal sections with sustrans/NCN routes – which are often fairly easy to navigate. It would help add some variety and some tarmac that might feel like a nice break after a while. Nothing beats a canalside pub on a nice day though. Bells are essential as mentioned. Best time of day to ride canals is at night, but that may not work for you!

The tread on them looks ideal, just check they don’t have a wobble, mine were a manufacturing defect. So keep the receipt!

@dc1988 – I was running Maxxis Ramblers, which are great tyres. The ones in the picture above are Goodyear Connectors, but they both had defects in the bead which made them wobble! As I said, back to 650b now though…

After trying quite a few combos I much prefer 650b. I really like the nimble and fast accelerating feeling, and the extra volume and off road capability, plus it has acceptable speed on road (rather than optimal, so depends on your priorities). I tried 700×50 on the Camino, and while I liked the volume and capability, it felt too cumbersome and the front wheel flopped noticeably, and it wasn’t as nimble. My abiding thought was that while the tyre fits, it was a little beyond the ideal geometry envelope of the frame. As Jameso said, full mudguard fitting is important, and there’s no room with 700×50. I’ll be trying 2.1-2.2 fast XC tyres when it gets a bit drier, and I think it’ll feel good (without ‘guards).

For a comparison of 700×50 and 650×47 see the pic below. Both wheels resting on the ground. Quite a big difference. EDIT – and also a decent change of BB height.

Anyway, happy with mine…

Well, 75 U long mudguards fitted and they feel pretty solid so far and fairly straightforward to fit. Just need some riding in various terrain to see how they do. Fit well over 2.6 tyres so pretty happy with clearance.

Cheaper but similar options are:

Granite Talon which is also a tyre lever: https://www.merlincycles.com/granite-talon-tyre-levers-with-chain-link-tips-241592.html?utm_campaign=googlebase-GB&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shopping&utm_term=Workshop+Tools&ucpo=155525&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_P6dBhD1ARIsAAGI7HAoBTscEiN1Gvtf9WQYGHUSYwkggo6588OC0GJ23G7rlFfJVB3hl7kaAqK0EALw_wcB
Very similar Topeak power lever X: https://www.tweekscycles.com/topeak-power-lever-x-eukttl007/?istCompanyId=56f52ebf-49f3-492a-9cbb-cb6ab0fc1bf0&istFeedId=33b89177-5114-4491-9c2a-09a3a7cb23b2&istItemId=pxwipxrxp&istBid=t&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_P6dBhD1ARIsAAGI7HCPgSU0GWwsTiRuq9A99NltHx85CISfbU93ZgXyhTRha6j0axp4M_oaAtBLEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yes, it does look like I got the last one. The style version looks better with the longer flap and double stays on the front. I’ll see how it works for me anyway. I’d guess I could get the flaps separately if I needed to and they’d likely fit if the profile is the same. I’m not too worried about total coverage though anyway.

Yeah, mis-type from me. I’ve gone for the Bluemel 75 longs for now and will see how they go. Got them fairly cheaply on bike24 as they ship to UK again now, will see how much of a faff it is to receive stuff from the EU!

Ditto, that looks very tidy rootes1, what is it? Good to see bluemel 75s working well, it’s probably what I’ll opt for so I can use wider tyres

I’m still deciding what full guards to get for the MTB so it’s always good to see what works for some. Shame those Wald ones seem to lack adjustability, and the key thing is that they don’t have the stays running on the outside, like the VOs. I have VO guards on the gravel bike and they’re fantastic, well worth the cost for how long they will last and how well they work. Good to know the SKS 75s are quiet, i’ve tried a pair of the edge AL ones on the gravel bike and they weren’t great, partly due to the square profile and the limited adjustment of the stays.

Kinda hoping the VO 68mm guards will work with 2.4s if they are set a bit high (and I have the room).

In the same boat here really, and it’s important to give yourself some slack. Parenting is bloody hard work, and family life does take up most of your life. Try not to be too hard on yourself for not getting out, because you then run the risk of not enjoying the times you do go out because they are shorter than you used to do, and you’re less fit. And yes, the intensity of parenting young ones does ease, and it is a phase. I’m only just getting a sense of this with a 5 year old and 2.5 year old. But importantly I can see things are a bit easier and there are more opportunities to get out. Key things:
– Be prepared, make sure the bike and kit is ready
– ‘Book’ time in advance for a decent ride and stick to it no matter the weather or if you’re tired
– Gravel bike has been my friend, as it’s the best way to cover lots of varied terrain locally, and in the winter its got full mudgaurds and is less faff and mess than an MTB.
– Night riding in better weather/light: I find getting out on a damp evening in January bloody hard, as i’m usually pretty knackered by the time bedtime is done, and riding lanes and slop in the dark isn’t so much fun for me. Different story in summer though.
– Change your expectations – key one really, you’re not going to be as fit, have as much time, or be able to relax or ride with mates much. Embrace getting out in nature, embrace bimbling locally, embrace thrills in small doses.
You’ll slowly get back to a version of how you want to ride, and have more time to do it.
EDIT – Yes, got a trailer and use it for school/nursery runs with them both and we all love it, excellent resistance training with 40kg of kids and trailer lugging behind you!

Maxxis ramblers are a good all rounder, and available in 650×47. Need to look around for a deal though as they are fairly expensive.
Hutchinson Touareg 650×47 can be found cheap, but they’re def not a winter choice, depends what kind of off-road that 50% is? If it’s surfaced tracks and trails then might be fine. Hutchinson also do the Overide in 650b, but like the WTB Byway it’s really a road plus tyre and not for mixed off road.