… wonder if it's an issue with the EBB??

Why one side only? Doubt it's galling as EBB went in slowly with loads of grease. But what do I know – I'm the idiot that got it stuck.

This is all a bit scary …

I've got a Forward Component EBB, and shoved it into my Ti456. Non-driveside went in easily but driveside was a real faff & needed a wrench after about 2 turns. So, last weekend I took it out to make sure everything was clean; cleaned up the threads & shell, loads of grease and then started tightening it by hand.

Each 1/4 turn was repeated until silky smooth, and then on another 1/4 and repeat. After 30 very boring minutes it was about 3/4 in when there was a sudden halt combined with a bit of a gritty sound.

I how have a EBB that won't move. The installation tool is knackered but Eric at FC has sent me a replacement free (and offered loads of sound advice). And it still won't budge.

So, it's back to On one in a fortnight for some vice action, I think. Funnily enough, the Hope Ceramic BB (the only BB the frame has seen) was also difficult to get in on the driveside. So either the threads we're chased, or got damaged when the Hope went in and have got further damaged with the EBB, or the shell is slightly ovalised (which a soft ali BB would deform to fit but which the EBB wouldn't).

Moral – take no risks. I'm gutted that I might have knackered my Ti456, even being careful with it.

More views here with oil on it optimistically hoping it'd help.

Posts by a proud dad.

Daughter nursing broken arm after falling off her bike watching her brother show off.

An audience whilst learning to jump. Nerves? Only me.

The joy of biking.

TBH if the thieves who took the Jones knew what they had they'd sell the parts separately anyway. And anyone buying that frame would have to know what they were getting (i.e. they'd know about bikes) and wouldn't want it as anything other than frame only.

Sadly the mass of Jones riders will all now be suspected of:
1. Riding stolen goods
2. Having dubious taste
3. Being attention seekers

Also, the City is the kind of place you might see one (items 2 & 3 above). Only thing to do would be to ask politely … or stalk it to its destination.

Haddock – that's a 26er fork (440mm) with a 29er front wheel, not a 29er fork. Handling is fine in the set up shown, but advice from Brant was not to try a 29er sus fork.

Good point, well made. Maybe I need to question my determination … maybe a mediocre level of fugliness will be enough to see off the towpath chavs.

There are rack mounts, so panniers are possible. More lights? I've noted this fetish for multiple lights and don't get it – a big f*** off HID lamp works wonders.

When you added your 29" wheel up front did you buy a new 26" rear wheel as well? Just so they would match?

Good spot that man, but no. Pikes & previous wheels moved over to my son's bike (who was moving up from 24" wheels). So I needed 2 new wheels – I wanted a rear Hope Hoop and got the front built to match.

So yes, I am a tart but not quite as bad as that.

why is their decking on wheels?

Sun loungers of uncertain vintage, I believe.

Ahh, the calibrated hand test. More like 25-26lbs then?!

Done it properly now with scales. Hand re-calibrated. 24lbs precisely.

TLR – Ti makes sense. Now all that salt, dirt, floods etc. won't rot the frame.

Yes, yes, yes. Did all that. Mech goes in, and at full compression would strike the chainstay if set right for 32T. Did this for all mechs I've had on it, and on my XCE before it.

Yes, it worked when the mech was set higher, and yes it looks better like this IMHO. As this is my bike for life I had no worries about doing it.

Front mech is now set at the height that little sticker that comes with them recommends.

Ah, why I have it is an accident – planned to use it for its intended purpose but had to move, then needed a commuter and already had too many bikes.

Actually it's a hardcore rigid now and can tackle whatever you want, provided you're happy on a rigid. It just happens to spend most of its time on towpaths which which it copes rather splendidly.

As for weight, not much. Even with the tubeless setup about 22lbs (vague holding it in hand test only)?

This whole hobby is a pointless exercise in spending money, isn't it? Also known as having fun, but each to their own I guess.

two 2Mb images. I'm glad I've got fast broadband

Detail is important. And how can it look betterer now?!

Thank you all. 😳 I'm bashfully proud of my achievement.

Glad someone spotted the TFT sticker – so far no one I've met on my daily commute has mentioned it, possibly as they're blinded by the L&M light.

other people claim changed their riding and their lives forever …

It's changed mine too. Now I bravely tackle the Bandstand steps off Narrow Street rather than riding round it. Tough stuff, you know.

29" front wheel on, will roll better over the roots/rocks

London towpaths, a few minor offroad bits, quite a few steps, potholes etc. All the usual things that call for 5" travel front & rear. 29er sorts 'em out.

Er, no.

So the front mech would shift better – chain kept dropping randomly. So far, so good – no problems, good shifting and so little material has gone that'll it'll make no difference (in a vague, non-engineering handwavy sort of a way).

Just so long as I don't want to sell it …

Right, took some photos. More here – sorry if the focus is a bit iffy but you'll get the idea.

First, the whole bike.

Now the filed away chainstay. Little material has actually gone – it just looks like more than it really is. It now clears the front mech when in the granny ring with the front mech in the ideal position for a 22/32 setup.

The material removed came off with a small, fine hand file and only off the top section of the stay. I suppose any warranty would now be void but as it's 4 years old I'm not too worried; and I'm too much of a nancy rider to get close to breaking it.

05 HL here, now running SLX double front mech with 32/22 & bash set-up. If you want to run the mech at the right height it'll hit the chainstay when in the granny ring.

So your choice is to run it high – it'll work but doesn't look particularly good – or you can take a file to your chainstay and carve out a little groove. Eventually I took file in hand and patiently carved out a groove. If I get chance I'll post a pic here on Friday if you're interested.

Been running UST for 6 years now, and got Stans rims midway through this year. Running a UST tyre on one, normal tyre on the other. Both sealed quickly, both hold air very well, both have seals fairly nasty cuts. As good as a full UST set-up but easier to get the tyres on & off IME.

Forward Components one doesn't need the cranks modifying now IIRC – works with bog standard XT cranks. That'd win it for me.

Having spent some hours arguing with my chain tensioner this week I'm seriously looking at getting one.

A tip-off from MTBR suggested it's a Donkeylope. And no, that's not a joke name, it's for real. Anyway, I've emailed them – well, him actually as there's a him + a dog involved – to find out if it is one of his.

Have used both, and Ultraseal. And Oko which seems to be for Agricultural use.

Ultraseal may well be ultra, but seal it doesn't – well, it isn't very reliable. It doesn't dry out, but as it's pretty useless that's no advantage. Don't touch it.

Oko – bit like Utraseal but contains small bits of rubber. Seals pretty well and doesn't dry out but still not as good as latex-based sealants.

JRA – excellent on UST tyres which are less prone to dry out. On non-UST tends to dry out too quickly. Seals well.

Stans – seals very well, dries out less quickly than JRA but more pricey.

Now using Stans throughout the fleet, 6 wheels on UST rims / UST tyres, 2 wheels on Stans rims (one UST tyre, one non-UST tyre). Personal preference is to use UST tyres in all cases as they seal well and don't let sealant dry out.

Well said, Ton. Me too, but that's because I look a sight whatever I'm in.

Anyway, you've had so many bikes I'd have thought you'd have had a few of these by now (the green bike, not the golden girl). Any ideas?

Yes, the gold bum is all well and good, but I've far more chance of slinging a leg over the bike.

Any of the evening forum dwellers know the frame make? Please?

Let's see if I can link to the piccy, then. If I can, it's the green one!

Any of the afternoon workshy brigade any clues, then?

Not interested in whether you like it, just what make it is. If we all liked the same thing it'd be a dull world.

So come on Ayatollah, what is it?!

Link works now (I hope). I'll check out the suggestion though.

Not fussed about the price, I just want it to work with no hassles.

I've considered – and ruled out – going the Excentriker / Forward Components min-EBB route as it's very expensive and would need new cranks too. Another alternative would be an eccentric hub, but that's a new wheel which seems silly. So, tensioner it is.

As good to ride, but not better. Other things are better as outlined. And as all ride fine I'm not inclined to spend more just to find that out (again).

…one of said people who recall these as the best thing ever

I've had a Turner XCE with PUSH'd Vanilla RC, and currently a HL 5 Spot with new PUSH'd RP23 on it. Neither improve on the Enduro in terms of ride – that Brain shock is very good. Where the Turners do win out is mud clearance, ease of maintenance (bushings vs. bearings and practicality (shock out of the firing line of mud etc.), plus brand snobbery.

Fitted with new forks and it'd be as good as anything out there now, but £200 – £250 seems about right.

A ferret … hmmm, more than I thought, then, especially one with trouser-based experience.

Pity you didn't want want a few months ago then.

FWIW it was, indeed, lovely but no better than a Thomson, not noticeably more comfy but it did match the Ti456 nicely. The only reason to buy one is the looks / perceived snob value.

Probably go with a Yess, if only for troublefree operation. Even cheaper would be to use the rear mech that's already there.

Eels, That Fresh Feeling. Music just doesn't get better IMHO.

I asked the same question. Reply here.

A quick summary seems to be
– If you want to go up, along and down you might struggle with any suspension.
– If you just want to go down it'll work.

I looked at the numbers – any 29er fork,even with 80mm travel, will be long. You'll gain >60mm through the wheel, so 80mm travel will be about the same as 26er with 140mm. But 80mm will only have ~25mm sag whereas 140mm will run ~40mm sag. So, you'll lift the front & slacken the steering by ~15mm. A 100mm fork will make that bigger still. Or at least I think so …

How far? As short or as long as is interesting, but circular!

Where will I be starting from? Not far off Brynberian

OK, but you can use them for SS too – that’s what I do, but I’ve not run gears on it & probably never will.

I’ve got an Explosif with geared sliders – the ones with the built-in tensioning bolt. If yours is the same (i.e. no hanger but with built in bolt) I’d be happy to swap. Email in profile if you need it.

About 15 miles away in the Wolds here, and it’s not looking too good. Windy, overcast & getting worse.

Mind you, the last 3 weekends in Dalby have been superb if that’s any consolation.