Yes that’s right. Thought it was military related.

Judging by the shite on display up there I would suggest a “munter” of Ibises.

The green one looks like the army are having a clear out of bridging materials and the pink one looks like they were doing it for charity. 😉

Thanks iDave.

But really, in my haze I seem to remeber he was disgraced for something, possibly to do with the armed forces?

But **** me, after seeing him on have I got news for you some years ago and then subsequently in the media, he really is a totaly ******* obnoxsious wormy weasel **** ****.

I’m spent.

I’d like to know this as well because finger measuring my road wheels and then trying to transfer this measurement to my Inbred after a few bears has proved less than conclusive.

Good point from sponging machine up there. I surf Bournemouth and whilst its mostly really bad I can’t remember the last time I paid to park and surf.

Its only £3 at Kimmeridge, free if its midweek or early.

In fact he’s such a ****, I’m going again.

******* worthless, slimey ******* dick.

I have been drinking.

I run Shimano DX freewheels. A mate at work stuck a WI on at the same time I fitted my new DX. I got through 3 dx’s before his WI needed work. BUT, his WI needed new bearing and sprocket which worked out at about £40 IIRC. WI’s are great but not necessarily cost effective in the long run.

I do also repack my DX freewheels with good thick grease now and then. It works for me.

I would reckon on about 1000 – 1500 miles on a DX on the road weather depending. HTH.

IMO, he’s without doubt the most slimey ******* **** on TV ever.

What a ******* ****.

It may not require an owning with bombers.

Perhaps you could rent him with some Pikes?

Ooooooooo, I could be up for that. I need to meet some new people.

Apparently. 🙂

Loctite activator? Interesting choice.

Fit new pads, she’ll be as good as new.

Yes I have, no problem at all. There is slightly less thread than you would get on a proper freewheel hub but its done about 1000 miles and been fine.

Yes you should. A change is as good as a rest as they say and if you don’t like it it hasn’t cost a penny.

Putting a pair of On One carbons on the Cotic has also been a lot of fun for me.

I’ve never known a place with so many ill informed, opinonated, misguided, middle aged, fat, slow and ugly toss pots.

I feel right at home! 😆

M reg Fiat Tipo 1.4 “action”. Bought it for £650, owned it for 5 trouble free years and then traded it in on the scrappage scheme and got £2000 back.

Tick

Tock.

I sir, am nursing a semi.

My Soul used to have 130mm Revelations but now has On-One carbons (26" size).

I might swap back in a bit, but then again I might not.

I'm on a 4 day westcountry surfari next week. Oh yes. And I can feel a new board coming on……and wetsuit. 😀

Yep, the reef at Boscombe is a total waste of nearly £4 million. In the process of putting that thing in they have totally destroyed what used to be an ok place to surf.

First they took most of the pier down which provided some wind shelter and let sand bars build up, then they dredge it, then put a pile of sand about half a mile down the beach which never breaks properly because its always blown out. Can someone show me a reef break that works well with a force 6 onshore wind? Unfortunately, 90% of the surf in Bournemouth bay is wind swell and the shelter of the pier is needed.

Thank goodness for Kimmeridge!

When he gets up, go over, slap him on the arse and say "go get em' Zebedee". 😀

aracer

Hmmm……I do see where you are going with your effciency argument but it doesn't feel quite right. Below is extracted from a Luminus thermal application note. Apologies for poor formatting!

Consideration of Optical Power
In the previous examples, for simplification purposes, it was
assumed that all electrical power was converted to heat. Obviously,
this is not the case and a portion of the input electrical
power is converted to light. The amount that is converted into
optical power depends on the color of the LED and the drive
conditions of the LED. Since different color LEDs have different
efficiencies and the efficiency of LEDs degrades as a function
of input power, each use case will be different. For the most
up to date information on the optical power emitted from
PhlatLight devices, please consult the latest product data
sheets.
Once the optical power emitted from the LED is known, it can
be factored into the calculation of junction temperature. The
thermal resistance equation (2) can be modified as follows:
(4)
Thus when optical power is taken into account, the demands
on the heat sink are reduced.

Variable Red Green Blue Unit
Current 8.1 8.1 8.1 A
Voltage 2.3 4.3 4.1 V
Optical Power 2.3 1.8 3.5 W
Power Dissipated 16.3 33.0 29.7 W
Tamb 30 30 30 ºC
Tjmax 80 120 120 ºC
R? j-hs 1.32 1.32 1.32 ºC/W
?Tj-hs 21.6 43.6 39.2 ºC

So, in terms of efficiency when comparing input electrical power to output optical power using Watts, the above efficiencies range from about 5 to 15%. Now I know these figures are for colours but I believe a white LED is based on a blue device with a phosphor doping so its probably fairly representative?

What do you think?

Thanks for the info. Having, ahem, checked the datasheets of some now obsolete Luxeon K2 green, amber and red devices which I used previously against the white Luminus SST90 that I have just used to replace a Welch Allyn Solarc HID, I see things have improved dramatically, particularly for the white devices.

How illuminating…. 😳

I'll dig a bit more if I may?

Where does your theoretical maximum figure of 250lm/W come from?

aracer

I think you're the one who doesn't get the numbers. Lumens per watt is a measure of efficacy – the amount of light that an LED emits for a watt of input power. Efficiency relates to how much of the input power is turned into light, which for current LED's is about 10%.

Check out some datasheets.

Interesting point about the RF and EMC aspects. Technically I would have thought that anyone selling lights should have to have them CE marked and this would ensure compliance with the relevant EMC standard. A resistor is very inefficient compared to a buck/boost type driver but it is very 'quiet' as its a passive component.

I've lost count of the amount of hours spent at the EMC lab trying to get some of these switching drivers to pass.

Ahhh, pedant-tastic STW – marvelous. I would rephrase but you know what I meant. Or perhaps you didn't?

All my bikes have zero travel each end and my off road lights consist of a single helmet mounted lumicycle Nimh 2000 lampholder modified with a single 200 lumen LED. Personally, I find its more than adequate. Until I ride with someone who has a much more powerful light then it feels like I'm riding in shadow.

I just don't see that we need more light.

I remember someone saying something similar about suspension travel. 😉

I'd say it's still very much in its infancy. There are some big design issues to crack yet – the primary one being efficiency. Sure they are more efficient than filament lamps but LED's are still only 10% efficient which means 90% percent of the power you put in is turned into heat and not light.

The big change currently is the move towards larger die. About 5 years ago, the best LEDs such as Luxeon K2 all used a 1mm square die. The high performace stuff nowadays like Luminus SST90's use a much larger 9 square mm die. Interestingly the lumens per emitting area hasn't really increased that much but now the emmiting area is much bigger. As I said before though, the big issue is heat dissipation. The hotter the LED gets, the less light it emits.

This is know as 'droop' in the industry and it affects all LEDs but the red, red/orange and amber devices suffer most. Typically, if you drive an amber LED such that its junction temperature is 100 deg C, you will only see 25% of the light you would get if you could somehow manage to drive the LED to maintain a Tjc of 25 deg C.

I could go on and on………..

No its not critical. A good wipe with a clean rag will be good enough.

I think scaredypants has a good point in that you would expect the plastic/metal interface of the insert/axle to let go before any thing too bad happens. Having said that the picture posted by druidh would suggest that it hasn't, the cup has wound out until it can go no more and then stripped.

Bugger.

Have a look at the chains and BB's section of the velo solo website. Its at the bottom and called a YST threadless bottom bracket.

A normal ST BB won't help as it still requires threads in the frame. The YST jobbie doesn't.

Which could be nice.

Personally I would take it all out and have a shufty first. Re-tapping might still be viable.

Might be the thread on the cups, or frame or both. You might get lucky and find it can be re-tapped.

If not, there are square taper BB's available which tighten up on themselves and dont use the BB shell threads.

Or the cup may have just worked loose?

Hope that helps.

I've got them on my Langster and I rate them.

Easy to fit, so much so that I take them on and off for wet and dry days. If they rub on the tire you have put the brushes in the wrong place. They should brush on the rim which also helps keep it clean. Friction is pretty much non exisitent.

Free spares as well.

Recommended.

Normally a sprint occurs when there has been too much bottom touching in the peleton and more space is needed.

Some one will then break away to touch bottoms in the fast group.

Mad Pierre, yes we know, but sometimes it comes on all quick like when out on a ride. Bit of lube helps then.

I always carry a small bottle of lubricant.

And sometimes I carry something for the chain as well. 😀

The only time I have use a torque wrench in 25 years of various mechanical fettling was the cylinder head bolts on my Mk1 escort.

Also, they are a waste of time unless they are calibrated regularly.

If you don't know how tight is right for say a stem bolt, you shouldn't be touching it anyway. Its all about mechanical sympathy.

TooTall

Was that sarcasm?

I can't tell round here.

I'm with Stu and Edric to a certain extent. Prove that your poverty is not due to your own doing and you can have some benfits. Otherwise, foo yuck off.