Cheers, I had a week in Chatel 2 summers ago, village is alot quiter then Lda trails even though you can travel alot further in Pds, every trail in Lda finishes at a lift.

Campsite is here

http://www.champ-du-moulin.com/en/welcome.html

As you see it states it is 5 mins walk to lift station.

Any more questions, i will try to help.

No problem to ride to the lift station, only 300-500yds and pretty flat. Look for the one with the pool ad i think its the closest one to the lift station!

Last time i hd some time on my hands i was playing on google earth and you could see the bottom station and the pool nearby, just if you don’ t trust me. The campsite mentioned in Bourg are to far away to ride it would take an age, you could drive and park at the bottom station.

In fact to put it in perspective, Red run finishes at Venosc Gondola bottom station. Walk across the road and look down at the river. There is a Go Ape which i have took the kids to in the past and it is 5 mins walk with 2 kids, at the side of there is the campsite with the pool!

Nearest campsites are in Venosc, in the valley below.

Its not as bad as it sounds though as the lift from Venosc runs until 8pm and the run that follows the lift line,(as such) is highly regarded as the best in the lda.

Look on the bike map and it is the Red run that goes of the end of the town. There is a few campsites within 500yds of the base station one in particular has a pool and slide! Downside is apart from the 2 bars in Venosc, which are more dinnertime haunts for walkers i don’t now what is on the campsites as i always stay in Lda.

Most riders go up Venosc lift in the morning ride and have a break in the bars in Lda, of which there are many and anything from 6euro burger and chips/pizza to 20euro plate of the day. Then ride untill teatime have a stop before last ride down!

Good thing about Venosc it is 30 mins from lda and 30 mins from Adh by road but the Gondala to Lda only takes something like 8mins. Other thoughts are once your back in Venosc, Bourg is only 10 mins in car and has plenty of places to drink and we always shop there at the supermarkets before going up the valley to Lda.

That is true i have both, when i first had the Push tune, volume reducer kits weren’t available. I’m 18stone and ride uk and 2 weeks a year in the Alps so even though i’m not fit but I go downhilll quite fast.

Before volume spacers go for tune, it may seem dear but it is the best spend you can have to change the feeling of the bike.

Out the box with my weight i found the bike was to soft and bouncy even with lots of air in the can, the Push tune alters the Compression and Rebound tune. Which allows you to run slightly less air and have the slow bump sensativity but smoothly ramps up. I tried the large spacer a year after when they came out and for what I can work out, due to the less air space in the chamber and ramps up to harsh for my weight and feels like you are bottoming out faster. To the extent on a long ride my bakeside was killing me.

I’m not a geek but people say these shocks are rubbish but tuned correctly they feel great.

I’m overweight and have the same set up as you.

I believe all bikes come with compression and rebound tune set for the bike and average weight-something like 12 stone.

If you don’t weigh that then a tune is a must to get the best out of it. I always go with Tftuned and get it Pushed tuned. I have had success with this on all my bikes I’ve had from DH to All mountain.

Even though it felt good as standard, i thought it blew through to fast. The Push made it feel like a different shock. Since having it pushed they have now brought volume spacers out. Using the biggest I found it ramped up to harsh, put the smallest one in and it is spot on.

I ride in the trail setting on the front with 2 spacers and pro pedal locked on the rear on any normal trail centre stuff, when pointing downhill jumps, berms and rock gardens open both and it now is very balanced. Air settings will depend on your preferred feel to the bike. I have mine set quite hard which works for me.

Saving settings in a book is the best and keep tweeking and recording.

I originally had this when I first set it up 2 months ago.

It was chain growth on my Remedy.

Had to set chain length and all tension screws with no air in the shock.

If it is too tight and the tension of the mech isn’t right the cage at the top pulley can catch the large gear on the cassette while moving. Slightly longer chain and more tension to pull the mech back and down abit, sorted the clearence issue out for me.

Never seen it on other sram set ups. I put it down to the larger top pulley on the 11 speed set up.

My riding in the Alps started 5 years ago in Les Deux Alpes across the road, at which point I was suited up and well in to DH.

I now ride A 6″ Enduro bike and go with open face and knee pads and ride the same trails as I did on the Dh with full face and Armour.

I have also rode at Chatel/Morzine, In lightweight gear.

There are green runs at ADH and LDA that you see people on hardtail’s on.

As far as I now, the level of safety gear you wear is up to you!

Do,
Normal sram stuff, but my only way arond this is.

Take wheel out

Pump lever, to push pistons out.
Re-place wheel or bleed spacer.

This helps as when everything is working well the lever extends the piston out then when you stop pulling the lever the piston relaxes back in the caliper and reduces the internal volume. Forcing the piston beyond the normal spacing, then relaxing back to give you the right gap for the rotor, gives you the volume inside the caliper to force the right amount of fluid in.

Ie you need to get more fluid in the caliper, with the pistons at full normal extension.

I have had all Avids and now run Trail and they only need bleeding to set this when replacing pads.

Have been using this for 2 years but have started questioning how good it is when the stuff seperates in the container, which I believe is due to the temperature it is stored at.

Trying the muc off ceramic for a change.

Had X0 trails since last November.

They are way different to Cr’s which I have on my other bike and have used various incarnations for 4 years.

In the past when doing the Alps I had to bleed Cr’s every day. I have not had to bleed these for 6 months and have had 2 weeks in the Alps at that. When bled properly. I find the adjustment takes up pad wear-replace pads and turn back the adjustments. They are a different leval to the old on the lever fading front.

My only gripe is a big one, they squeel like hell. Tried different pads/rotor sizes(have thought the new rotors may flex). But I can’t get rid off it. There is a lot of this on Forums but no one can get rid of it.

Hi,
This is normally the internal oil height that as dropped ad needs resetting.

Hi,
Bought X01 mech, shifters and xx1 chain from crc and xx1 cassette from tweeks.

Week later crc had 10% off Sram so I bought same again and sent back against original receipt to get 10% off. 😀

Got a Raceface34t I used for 2 weeks in Alps and a 32t Works. I use in Uk both fine with top chain device and clutch mech never dropped a chain yet.

Raceface one does wear quiker though.

This is the link you will need-don’t go inside if you aren’t competent,

http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/rock-shox-reverb-ifp-bleed-procedure-785890.html

One of the link shows the inside of the seatpost.

Enjoy.

Hi,
I’ve done a couple of these and both times it has been the Oil level inside the post. Both times resetting the IFP Height which you can get a tool @£6 or make your own as I did.
My experience is the above problem is common when the seat locks out lower than full extension.
If the seat moves down slowly when under pressure, I find this is common with the O ring on the lower seal head-which you get in a kit for about £7.
Nick

Last time I took my bike in a room at a Travelodge-I had to clean the bike before I could use it! Just like the bed and the bathroom.

Maybe only £30 but Premier on Hi-express for an extra £10 is much cleaner and the staff are on a different level of customer care.

There is a motorcycle shop in Shirebrook that are quite respected in the area for doing a good job!

Hi, It took me 5hrs to get from Chatel to LDA last summer.

4yrs there on a DH, but the last to on a remedy-which i prefer. You don’t need 8″, all trails are fast and flowing.

When i looked last night I think the Tour goes down that way the weekend you come back-whatever you are in make sure you have Aircon.

Also there is 2 new trails on the map for this year so the bike choice could change!

Hi, took me 5 hrs from Chatel last Summer so the transfer is not good at all from that way.

Had 4 years on DH bike but took Remedy for the last 2 and will be again this year. All the tracks are fast! but you don’t need 8″ of travel.
I had a look last night and I

Mine was a simple and cheap solution-if you are happy bleeding your parts.
Take the rear brake hose off and run a length of black heat shrink over that is wide enough to put the Reverb hose through too.

Put the Reverb hose through, re-attach bleed the Reverb and brake and it looks pretty clean as you now have a single line from front to rear.

To finish it put one cable tie around the seatclamp to hold the Reverb hose tight and turn the seat 360 degrees. The hose then coils around the post and when the seat extends up and down the slack cable doesn’t catch the tyre/suspension.

Argos=£30

Did you do a full seal change on the internals of the air leg.

Nick

I think too much oil in the compression damper can also cause this!

I could be wrong but I think there is different volumes on different year forks and dampers.

I have experienced issues before and I guessed I had a hydrolic lock due to overfilling the damper.

You can check this by taking the damper out and compress forks. (Once you have turned upside down and collected the oil) if you are doing this make sure you have some new oil in the right weight, ready to replace it with.

It was tongue in check.

Having raced a couple of downhills, I now where it rates. To many people call it the downhill area then people are disappointed.

What pines is good for(when dry) is a fast flowy, pump able route and they have possibly made the best anyone could have out of the area, as it was.

I rode Coed llandegla the day before running it this weekend and still didn’t find it boring!

Took the wife round the red saturday and nearly ran a dog over, walking with a couple on a piece of the singltrack marked on the red trail.

Only live 10 mins away and have road there for 15 years, but never found the “DOWNHILL AREA” 😉

They do if there outfit is completed by the use of stabilizers!

Try tftuned in youtube, there used to be a quick vid to get you started.

All depends on the pressure in the shock or the spring rate!

Glad you sorted it.

I may be wrong but warranty will cover defects and I guess like a car it has to be serviced at the right intervals to cover any defects. As all the above is wear and tear it may not be covered anyway!

Bottom bush and keys come in the full service kit.

Once you have been inside to where the keyways are you can understand that this chamber will need to be greased regular- which will help to prevent wear.

£43 kit does rotational play as it includes the keys.

For and aft movement is normally the bushing in top cap. New caps £40 in uk or £24 from bike-discount.

Tools are avialble from BIke-discount too!

I made a tool for setting the IFP height which works a treat.

Need to ride it fast to enjoy

The down bits at least!

You are best buying the Reverb basic seal kit from Tf or Loco for about £8. In this you also get the lower bush as well and all the seals you need when changing the topcap.

With both the Topcap and Lower bush it will take as much fore and aft play that you can.

Got my Topcap from Bikediscount and it took 2 days to come.

Nick

As credy says when you pushed the pistons in you could have put enough pressure on, then it could have pushed fluid out at the lever, somtry bleeding first.

It will be the lever piston seals, you haveto take the reach adjuster out, and the lever then with circlip pliers take out the piston/bladder.

Could try seals on the piston which i get from BIke goo, but it will probally need the bladder assembly which will cost you £20.

Hi guys,
I had the same problem and asked on here last week.

in the end-by luck I found the o ring on the inner seal head had blown out, replaced and now is good as new.

It has lost no air pressure.

I’m at a loss and want to ride!!!!

As others have said Araldite 2014 is good on Aluminium- we use it to repair ALuminium tools. If you are struggling Cromwell tools keep it in stock.
Also Plexus (Anixter ADhesives are stockists) or Bondline (Hull based)is an alternative we are now using on cars parts for Lotus and Aston Martin. We also use it on Aircraft interiors. We buy It all direct from manufacturer.