There is nothing worse in constantly being at the back all day and feeling that you are holding everyone back; sucks all the joy out of the trip!

Ohhh yes there is… and that’s someone who thinks they are entitled to ride down first down every trail whether they have the ability or not !!!

I’ve ridden abroad a few times in some very diverse groups of riders. Some people are more than happy to ride at the back and a good guide will easily accommodate them, equally a good group of riders will give everyone an opportunity to ride up front, enjoy mixing it up a bit and simply adjust their riding accordingly.

I’ve never been upset by the latter but fork me the former is annoying !!!

Alternatively there’s a few camp sites near by and I’m about to put up for sale a 5 man Outwell Hartford tent and everything else you’d need to start campiing IE stove, tables, wardrobe, carpet, wind breaks etc etc. PM if you’re interested.

Try the old school , not been there myself but I’ve heard good things.

Try Silkgraphics, I’ve used them for frame, wheel, shock and fork decals and can’t fault them. They’ll custom any decal to any colour and they usually have want you want in the back if you can’t see it on their web site and you contact them.

Brake disc on the right way round ?

I was literally just about to post a topic about the same thing but looking to buy from Canada (?).

One suggestion I’ve had is to have the bike split into 3 different parcels sent separately and labelled ‘used bike parts’ and you still pay duty but a lot less.

Anyone else got experience of buying a bike from Canada ?

Technically this is not in the Peak District.

I beg to differ doctorgnashoidz !

I think you’ll find that the thick yellow line on the Ordnance Survey for the National Park that is the ‘High Peak District’  runs along the wall and gate you go through after climbing out of Hayfield. So the 19/20 trees after the wall and gate are in fact in the Peak District… just saying !

Thanks Tom. Yes I am wary, especially given the thread about the facebook scam earlier today. He’s offered to transfer funds before posting but I also need him to come through here or pinkbike instead of ebay but he’s not picking up on the elephant sized hints I’ve given him yet !

The Eagle is a world of hurt when its not running correctly and you only need the settings of just about anything to be off and it buggers it up.

Firstly, set your upper limit screw as normal so that the chain doesn’t pop over the cassette. You’ll actually notice that it doesn’t get over the top and the jockey wheels don’t line in with the 50t ring, they appear half way between the 50t and the next ring down and you can’t get it any further. Just set it as high as possible I.E. when the line stops moving up with your turns of the screw.

Next, make sure you you use the red widget when the bike is at it’s sag point and don’t do it when the bike is in the stand, do it with the bike on the ground. Load yourself up with your normal kit, sit on the bike so the sag indicator slides back on your shock, then get off the bike and slowly let some the air out your shock until it drops to the indicator ring. Now use the red widget. This will ensure the mech has the correct spacing to the cassette when there is weight on it and the suspension is compressed. Pump your shock back up.

This should work fine but if after doing this you still get some grind, particularly when your on a steep climb, stand behind the bike with the chain in the 50t ring and back the b-screw off by just half a turn (moving the mech away from the cassette as this is what may have caused the grinding), at the same time you’ll notice that the alignment of the mech also changes and it gets closer to the 50t.

What your doing is getting the balance between the maximum amount of b-screw and limit screw which in turn improves the chain line.

To answer your original question…personally I would run the boost ring with it too, if for nothing else than to rule out any other problems. I had a dodgy cassette to start with and had it replaced… but that’s a whole other story !

Took the shock off last night and tried chain oil and Muc Off MO94 but to no avail. They’re turning fine but just not independently. I’ve found the Fox round thingy on ebay for $3 so ordered one of those, even with postage and the treet of a little Fox double hex spanner it’s cheaper than sending the shock off.

Bag of sh1te that Fox don’t supply this stuff with factory fitted shocks !

Good idea. I wonder about making one with Sugru…

Will the Sugru stick in there never to be removed again or will it just pull out when you need it to ?

Air can tuning spacers – I’ve probably got some spares. Pretty sure my original shock came fully loaded with some extras

I’m alright for spacers thanks, I bought a pack and I’ve got 2 fitted so I’ve got some spares left over.

I was a little less scientific about it when I set it up on Saturday after changing the chain.

I set up so it was running perfectly in the stand then took the bike out, leaned on it heavily to see how much the mech moved under load then adjusted the b-screw by that amount…it meant the line on the red gauge was just about visible at the bottom of the tooth pattern when it was back in the stand.

Tested on Sunday on the trail and it’s all alot better and shifting fine but I’ve still got a slight annoying tick on the second cog from the top on the climbs. Maybe I’ll go back and try the faff of letting air out the shock and applying the brake etc. Thanks for the tips benpinnick.

Just totalled up and I’d done just over 49hrs and 455k on the chain. Like I said though, very little, if any stretch showing on the chain.

Is this what others are getting out of their Eagle 12 chain life ?

Also, took the bike for a ride on Sunday and whilst its running and shifting a lot better I’m still get an annoying tick on the second to top cog, which if you adjust the index to get rid of it makes the change down sluggish.

Another thread I started about that here.

FWIW, Eagle rocks! Getting waaaaaaaaay better life out of the chain and cassette (and consequently chainring too) than with 11 speed, so much so it’s bonkers!

Not getting this myself… my 12 speed has been getting gradually worse since I bought the bike from new at the end of April. The chain wasn’t showing any sign of wear on the length gauge but after the system stopped shifting and the mech started pulling I’ve had to change the chain today, run it with one less link and wound in the b-screw some more to get it to run and shift properly.

So, just had another fiddle and got some results…

Despite the chain showing no wear at all on the gauge I tried changing
it and it immediately eliminated the pull on the rear mech. I then decided (well actually had it decided for me because I **** up a link when shortening the chain) to try running the chain with 1 less link, and that also made things a bit better in the stand once I’d gauged the b-screw again, but as soon as I took it out on the road it was a bag of shite again. So watching the action in compression I figured I needed to run the chain tighter by adding more b-screw, once I’d done that I released the cable and set it up again with 1.5 turns in the barrel adjuster.

In summary, the chain appears to wear out very quickly and the b-screw needs winding in more to compensate for the compression in the suspension.

Ok I’ll say it “wear”

There’s no stretch on the chain at all and no wobble in the mech bolt or bearings. The chain ring looks a bit worn but I can’t see it being that already. Others seem to be getting a lot more miles out of their group set than I’ve done.

I’ll be testing a replacement mech (I’ve got a spare I’ve bought for a trip away) and then I’ll try a new ring.

Thanks nicolaisam and julzm, thought I had a eureka moment there and checked the jockey wheels but they’re all fine and the correct way round.

Out the box for the first few months it’s all been fine but getting gradually worse. Something is making the cassette hold onto the chain and its not the cable or screw settings.

I’m pretty sure my Boost-hubbed Eagle 12 speed set up came with a 6mm offset chainring.

Sorry about the 20 questions post… but what chainring is everyone using with a boost hub and crank set 3 or 6mm offset ?

X01 Eagle Mech & XX1 Eagle Cassette on Hope Boost Hub

Same setup as this. I thought cable routing might be a factor and I’ve loosened all the grommets on the entry and exit ports for the internal routing so as to make sure the cable can move freely back and forth. You can get it set up and working well in the stand then when you ride it out it’s crap again, so obviously the cable length and tension under compression is a factor…. but it’s a mountain bike FFS so shouldn’t do that !!!!

Yep, used the template thingy and I’ve tried running with both both more and less b tension. First on the basis that more B screw would make the chain hug the cassette more and stop the ticking and then with less on the basis that it would stop the holding on to the chain and let it go (please!). Made no difference at all.

Press fit BB, boost cranks and boost hubs… Eagle boost chainring with 3mm offset. The Sram guide says it should be a 3mm offset too but might give the 6mm a try, again just to rule it out.

Bump for those with a lunch break !

‘Yes, yes, that’s what I heard too… all big travel bikes are rubbish, dumb down the trails and take away the fun factor… we all should be riding short travel bikes’

how do you stop arm pump on descents like that?

Arm pump wasn’t an issue, which is surprising on a short fork… thigh burn on the pitched stuff off Wansfell was though !

For those interested, the music is Frank Eddie, who used to be one half of Lemon Jelly AKA Frank Deakin. If you can find a copy of his one and only album it’s well worth a listen… Frank Eddie[/url]

Cheers… rules out option 3 for sure !

thekettle… I was looking at Red Screes but I wanted to do Wansfell twice, once down NW side (down devil’s Staircase as it’s been called on Strava) to Ambleside, then round and back up to come down the SW side and onto Jenkin Cragg. Didn’t fancy another hike up after the Yoke Ill Bell and Stony Cove either.

110% in a couple of places DONK!
More tech but less flowy than Sty Head
Maybe a fraction less gnar than Rossett Gill as a descent.

Maybe do it as a double loop then from the Borrowdale side, climbing up Stakes zig zag’s twice but doing the descent down Sty and GG in turn !

PLEASE don’t just get a GPX and upload it to a device without having the map and compass skills. Lots of call outs for MR because of gps’s running out of batteries, breaking when dropped etc and people not having the way with all to get themselves out of trouble.

Just to reaffirm this a bit. I ride and walk in the Lakes a lot and it is soooo easy to get caught out. It can be blazing sunshine one minute and the next you can’t see your hand in front of your face. The last time I climbed up to Stakes Pass from Borrowdale I took a picture half way up of the bike with a rainbow blazing out of it, by the time I got to Angle Tarn there were gale force winds and driving rain, it was that cold I daren’t stop to add a layers for fear of stopping too long and freezing up. I’ve also been up on some of the tops when they’re covered in snow and cloud and you have no reference to give you a sense of direction, and you don’t want to wander off an edge up there.

Equally as important to the map and compass, a good Garmin with a proper map in it with a properly plotted route to follow and off course warnings turned on can be a lifesaver in some of the situations I’ve described above. It’s very easy to be caught out by following your nose, footprints or what you think is the trail.

…and for a final rant. Not giving out free and easy access to digital explorer maps and creating software which limits their use is what boils my p155 when they can be so important to saving lives !

I’m more inclined to park keswick side, go up stakes zig zags, across the tops to Angle tarn and push up to EH

Cheers Donk, yeah done this a few times but never done the legit loop with the Stake Pass down or started in Langdale. Might be worth ticking off (maybe ?)

Not quite as good as coming down from Sty Head to Seathwaite

Simon1975, it looks like the route on Pinkbike takes this in, they just started in Langdale and did a big loop up Rossett Ghyll, down Sty Head to Seathwaite then back up Stakes zig zags from the Borrowdale side then down Stake Pass back to Langdale.

It’s a very hikey bikey route and you’d be disappointed I think if Stake Pass isn’t worth descending.

So is the descent down Stake Pass via Black Crags worth doing ?

I’ve done a similar route to the video from the Borrowdale side (what Nobeerihthefride said) and thought it looked worth doing from the top, but I’d been put off by people saying it were crap ?

Using my clever detective skills I have deduced that you have a new frame which is different to your last one… what did you brake and what have you got instead ?

WTB tyres. Bombproof.

Yeah, but IME with Vigilante’s the tread is made of cheese and lasts for about 3 rides and they are a bitch to get on and off certain wheels !

At £55 for two pieces of foam tied into a loop with a piece of velcro strap the Huck Norris is silly money. At £30 from Rush Cycles I thought ‘that’s more like it’ and bit the bullet… but don’t be fooled. Rush Cycles are splitting the pack and selling them in singles and not being very clear about it (feel free to make a trade misdescriptions claim, I have warned them !).

So, I’ve been using the 2 ply Maxxis Aggressor for a few months after going for an amazing stretch using Specialised and Mavic tyres with very few punctures or split side walls. The Aggressor is a great tyre for grip and wear but crap for puncture and tear resistance…. you don’t want to know how many I’ve gone through, but Maxxis are now investigating !!!

I thought the Huck Norris would be the answer to my problems, so with a brand new Aggressor and a £30 Huck Norris installed I rode out to the Lakes but the first rocky descent flatted with a split along the bead and a hole in the top plus a nice dent in the rim. The Aggressor is now in the last chance saloon with a DD version and the Huck Norris back in place.

One thing to bear in mind if you do flat with a Huck Norris in place and have to put a tube in, you have to take the sticky piece of foam out and carry it back with you… not nice.

For what it’s worth I rode in Spain last year with someone with a Procore set up and he punctured twice.

In summary, the Huck Norris might help but the tyre still needs to be up to the task and at £55 or £30 it’s not worth it IMO.

I thought youd already purchased one, and selling the Bronson after, so red herring indeed as well as a red new frame! double red herring!

I’m not allowed to buy the new bike before I’ve sold the Bronson :cry: , and I’m pretty sorted on everything I need for the new bike…. so if you know anyone who wants a top spec’d Bronson (it’s on the Classifieds here, and on Pinkbike and ebay), but you know where I am.

OK, ok… the Transfer was needed to go into a warranty replaced frame for the white Solo, I now have a Postman Pat coloured 5010. It’s red as Mr Red that won the most red competition for the third red year running in the town of Redsville.

As for the Bronson… not sold it yet so I haven’t replaced it, but when I do it won’t be SC and it won’t be red if I stick with what I’m currently thinking (although it can come in red too) :lol:

I’ll check my knocking post again later on.

hmmm interesting! its obviously pretty pimp if its got a transfer on it from stock!

I think most bikes are coming with either a KS Lev or Transfer now, given the malfunction rate of the Reverbs.

It’s a bit of a red herring this one mate (very red !!!) :lol:

The ‘knock’ is definitely normal, all of them in the shop were doing that. The shop owner said he’s not had one Transfer back with a fault or complaint and obviously can’t say the same for Reverbs.

orange 29er

Nah, I can’t do 29ers… keep guessing :lol:

I reckon that’s about the same as mine. I can make it knock using the seat as opposed to the post itself, it’s no more than a millimeter of movement either side. I think the hand in the video is moving more than the post itself if you watch the ‘fox transfer’ writing.

I’ve got a brand spanking new one and it does have a little bit of side to side turn and knock in the saddle and post. I spotted it when I picked it up and tried some others in the shop on other bikes and they were all the same.

Seems to be normal and I can’t say I noticed when out on a ride, then again I’m really rad and never sit down :lol:

ohhhh interesting you are going away from SC (TRAAAAITTTTORRR!! ) be interested where you go next! EVIL? spesh?

It’s not Evil or Spesh…it’s a surprise ! :lol:

Cheers for all the tips and advice. Definitely a swing in favour of Eagle and sounds like it’s worth a go.

Running a 30t on the Eagle and a 28t on the X01.

Should have probably taken the 28t off after the Alps trip last year but am too idle.

Tracey, I’ve been told that the crank set comes with a 32T ring which is what I run on 11 speed so I’ll give that a go for now. If the direct mount ring on the X0 is just as bitchy to swap out as is on the 11 speed crank I don’t blame you for leaving a ring on for as long as you can do. Whoever thought to put those bolts that close to the cranks wants shooting.

FWIW the multi alloy ring cassettes all seem to wear VERY quickly. I’ve got a 9-44 E13 where the top half is shot to pieces but the bottom cogs are as good as new! From less than 500 miles use…

Mboy, used to find this on the Sram 11 speed cassettes when they first came out but either they changed or I did because they’ve not been as bad recently.

Ps what bike you going for this time? Another bronson?

Oscillate Wildly, sounds like you’re well chuffed with the Eagle set up, and after all that pain you went through with the 11 speed when it first came out ! No, not another Bronson, in fact going away from SC, time for a total change (but keeping the Solo). Do want to buy a Bronson as your second bike, I’ll do mates rates ?

We have both set ups Eagle 12 speed and X01 11 speed, apart from the extra big ring on the cassette allowing a bit bigger front ring, its difficult to tell the difference. They are both smooth.

Thanks Tracey. I run a 32T on my 11 speed set ups, what do you run on your 12 speed then ?